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Ball in deep + lube. Now snatch has gone!

Started by SA14, Saturday, 10 October 2020, 02:27 PM

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Hooli

I always find the best cure for a sore arse is better roads. If I'm cornering all the time I'll be moving about, even if it's just leaning my shoulders over a bit as I counter steer into the bend. It's enough to keep my arse moving so it doesn't ache.

DP1400

Back to chain adjustment - always adjust the chain with the bike on its side stand. Assuming the sprockets are aligned, measure at the centre point of the bottom run of the chain 25mm slack. tighten up. Job done. :onya:

To avoid `tight spots` developing on a chain, gently run the bike up in 1st gear occasionally whislt on its main stand or paddock stand if it isn`t being used for a while - over winter for example. This will ensure that the same section of chain is not permanently sitting on the sprockets in the same position.  :onya:

SA14

Quote from: Hooli on Monday, 12 October  2020, 03:04 AM
I always find the best cure for a sore arse is better roads. If I'm cornering all the time I'll be moving about, even if it's just leaning my shoulders over a bit as I counter steer into the bend. It's enough to keep my arse moving so it doesn't ache.

You might be into something there. I don't move around on my seat much at all. I'm focusing so much on what's going on that I probably am sitting in the exact same position the whole time. Fits in with what my old mate said back in the 80s "you're arse will get used to it."

I'm closely monitoring the situation. Yesterday I was looking at the time it took for discomfort to set in. It was still about the same - 20mins+. I hope I can sort this out though because it's the only thing marring an otherwise perfect experience.

SA14

Quote from: DP1400 on Monday, 12 October  2020, 06:00 AM
Back to chain adjustment - always adjust the chain with the bike on its side stand. Assuming the sprockets are aligned, measure at the centre point of the bottom run of the chain 25mm slack. tighten up. Job done. :onya:

To avoid `tight spots` developing on a chain, gently run the bike up in 1st gear occasionally whislt on its main stand or paddock stand if it isn`t being used for a while - over winter for example. This will ensure that the same section of chain is not permanently sitting on the sprockets in the same position.  :onya:

Ok, I'll check again on the side stand this morning. I checked the whole chain for tight spots on Saturday and there none left after the deep clean and lube (that I could detect anyway) which is surprising considering it sat for 5 years (first two exposed in a salty fresh air environment). 

KiwiCol

You can always stand up on the pegs while you're going along, that gives instant arse relief, you can feel the blood start flowing again. 30 - 40 seconds standing & you're good for another 30-40 min.  Else get off n have a walk, but lots of us like to just keep going.
😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

gsxbarmy

Quote from: Kiwifruit on Saturday, 10 October  2020, 05:41 PM
Baz, just a final check on your chain. When you take the bike off its centerstand and sit on the bike the chain gets tighter. Get someone to sit on the bike with their feet just touching the ground then double check you have the correct freeplay.
Same goes for your engine oil level. Filling to the top mark while on the centerstand will put the oil level above it when both wheels are on the ground.
Pleased you are enjoying you bike now  :onya:

Chain play should be in the centre of the chain and set with the bike on its side stand
Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:

SA14

Quote from: KiwiCol on Monday, 12 October  2020, 07:31 AM
You can always stand up on the pegs while you're going along, that gives instant arse relief, you can feel the blood start flowing again. 30 - 40 seconds standing & you're good for another 30-40 min.  Else get off n have a walk, but lots of us like to just keep going.

Actually I do get some relief when I'm stopped at the lights and stand on the ground and twist left and right and when I get off and walk around for a bit or sit on something else. I'm good to go again for another 20-30 minutes. But I'm not at the skill or confidence level yet to stand on the pegs while riding yet. I've tried a bit of seat shifting but relief is momentary at best. Maybe my rump will toughen up over time but thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try.

SA14

Quote from: gsxbarmy on Monday, 12 October  2020, 07:57 AM
Chain play should be in the centre of the chain and set with the bike on its side stand

Just checked and it's 20mm on the side stand. On the centre stand it felt a bit floppy to be honest but on the side stand it feels "proper".

A day I don't learn something knew is a day wasted.  :smoke:

Hooli

Quote from: SA14 on Monday, 12 October  2020, 12:14 PM
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Monday, 12 October  2020, 07:57 AM
Chain play should be in the centre of the chain and set with the bike on its side stand

Just checked and it's 20mm on the side stand. On the centre stand it felt a bit floppy to be honest but on the side stand it feels "proper".

A day I don't learn something knew is a day wasted.  :smoke:

As the suspension compresses the chain tightens & goes slacker as the suspension decompresses. It's cause the swing arm pivots in a different place to the run of the chain.

SA14

Quote from: Hooli on Monday, 12 October  2020, 05:03 PM

As the suspension compresses the chain tightens & goes slacker as the suspension decompresses. It's cause the swing arm pivots in a different place to the run of the chain.

Makes sense. I was watching it today while getting my suspension setup and couldn't see it move or tighten but geometry doesn't lie. I'm happy with 20mm though.

grog

20 mm is good, if it keeps changing, throw it and get new chain, my adjustment hasnt changed in 15 th ks.

SA14

Quote from: grog on Monday, 12 October  2020, 07:24 PM
20 mm is good, if it keeps changing, throw it and get new chain, my adjustment hasnt changed in 15 th ks.

Well that's good to know!

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