Going back to standard gearing

[Dusty ST]

The previous owner of my 14, for some reason fitted very low gearing, so I've got -1 front, +3 rear sprockets.
I'm thinking of going back to stock, which I've never tried.
Are people generally happy with standard gearing on their 14?

I'm also thinking the bike would be quicker on higher gearing as it would make better use of the torque available - I believe I never get full throttle wound on before needing to change up.

[Andre]

I am happy with standard gearing except for 1st gear - it's a touch to low for me.

The -1/+3 combo is a bit extreme IMO but to each their own. I think with that combo I'd start mostly in 2nd gear

I suggest you go to standard gearing. If you don't like it you can change the front sprocket to -1 or +1. There are a good number of people who like one or the other.

[Snapey]

There's been a lot of discussion on here lately about a 19 tooth front sprocket. My opinion for what it's worth ... 19/41. The 17/44 you've got now would theoretically accelerate faster but while your going through the gears a bike with taller gearing is holding gears for longer.

There are plenty here who like straight line stuff who would know which is faster over the quarter.

[Speedy1959]

Standard for me as well.
Plus I get 55mpg on a run when I'm not with anyone.
Otherwise it's high 40's

S

[Hooli]

Standard for me too, what's the point of having a torquey bike you don't need to change gear on & then making the gears so short you're always changing them?

[Dusty ST]

Standard for me too, what's the point of having a torquey bike you don't need to change gear on & then making the gears so short you're always changing them?

Exactly.
If I get a moment, I'll be heading to Wemoto tomorrow and will go for a std set up, along with the sprocket carrier bearing (done 53k miles now), the oil seal which looks wonky, and front sprocket tab washer.   
I've also got also a box of tricks that recalibrates the speedo, I'm hoping it's just an in line connector and getting it out won't be too difficult.
Thanks for everyone's comments 

[T 24]

Years ago I used -1/+1 combo, but now I'm happy with std.

[KiwiCol]

Standard for me too, what's the point of having a torquey bike you don't need to change gear on & then making the gears so short you're always changing them?

Exactly.
If I get a moment, I'll be heading to Wemoto tomorrow and will go for a std set up, along with the sprocket carrier bearing (done 53k miles now), the oil seal which looks wonky, and front sprocket tab washer.   
I've also got also a box of tricks that recalibrates the speedo, I'm hoping it's just an in line connector and getting it out won't be too difficult.
Thanks for everyone's comments 

Removing speed healers etc is straight forward, just unplug it from the loom. and plug the loom back together. Nothing more to it, easy. 
Now that said, why do you want to remove it?  The std gearing gives a high reading on the speedo & your gizmo will be correcting it, yes, you'd have to recalibrate it for the new gearing set up, but that's easy too.  If you don't have setup instructions for it, a Google search would surely return you them.

[Andre]

On the standard gearing you get a high reading on the speedometer and on the odometer you get a more accurate reading within the legally prescribed tolerance.

This is what Healtech says in their FAQ:

Will the SH calibrate both my speedo and odometer?
Yes, but it is not possible to calibrate them separately, as one speed signal drives both the speedometer and the odometer.
On most bikes, if the speedo is calibrated to be 100% accurate, the odo will register slightly less miles. While this can be annoying in certain situations, one can always calculate the real distance easily after a long trip.
Alternatively, of course, you can get the factory default indications regardless of the used gearing: accurate odometer and slightly optimistic speedo.

[KiwiCol]

Thanks for that post Andre. I didn't know the odo would be out using the speedo corrector. Made me think & I recall on 1 particular economy test run, I had a strange odo reading, way less than the known distance was.
I'll do some more calculations & get the discrepancy differential known & apply that to my fuel use records.


Cheers!!

[Hooli]

That's why I'd never bother with a speedo healer, I prefer my bike to show it's true miles & allowing for the 8-9% speedo error is now habit anyway.

[erbas]

That's why I'd never bother with a speedo healer, I prefer my bike to show it's true miles & allowing for the 8-9% speedo error is now habit anyway.

This ist how I have put mine

[Snapey]

If you want both the odometer and speed readings accurate then the 19 tooth front sprocket is the answer.

[Tony Nitrous]

I've changed gearing on a lot of bikes. It was quite normally for me to have spare sprockets hung up in different sizes.   It depends very much on the bikes role.

If you're serious about the drags, you can get better gearing.

If your going the spend a long time sitting on the highway, there's better gearing.

I rarely change gearing anymore. Stock is a good compromise. Higher gearing spoils my launches off the lights and lower gearing annoys me out of town with higher rev's.

My big Suzuki's all run factory gearing now.
I'll change it if I get a drag bike.

[Hooli]

I've done a few gearing changes on my Bonnie, but then with a non-standard size rear wheel & tyre it was needed to make it feel right.

I also changed the gearing on my old RF600, it was so short geared I was looking for 7th or 8th all the time! It made it a much nicer bike afterwards.