Hayabusa interchangeability

[Shifty]

Looking for suppliers of gearbox clutch and engine parts.

Need head studs and case studs.

Any upgraded bits like oil pump gears timing chains etc.

Supplier of Carrillo rods and forged pistons (standard bore And stroke)

Want a hayabusa style clutch to suit gsx1400 which I've heard has been done, no sure if it's a straight swap?

Some gearbox parts are interchangeable, just not sure which. Have worked out output shaft and 2nd gear are same, some others carry different part numbers but may or may not interchange?

Any info be thoroughly helpful, the knowledge is out here but shops obviously won't help non customers.

[T 24]

Hayabusas billet made shift fork shafts will fit.
To 2/6 gears can be done "under cut", 4° if you are going to use quick shifter, 5° otherwise.
Read "2nd gear issue" topic.

[T 24]

If you are building just 200+ RWHP engine, it would be nice to know, how big is your +?
Where do you need that Carrillo etc. expensive stuff? Or just for building?
Your stock pistons can handle 500 hp, rods 300 hp and clutch with heavy duty springs 300 hp.
Everything can be broken by wrong adjustments or wrong use.
And if you want lower compression ratio, I have a few spacers.

[Shifty]

Thanks mate great responses.

Building a turbo streetbike, I did one a decade ago 140rwhp out of injectors and clutch, 178rwhp well and truly out of fuel pump. That was on 98RON (93AKI) with no intercooler.

Doing another, power will depend on intercooling and knock limit but Id be disappointed if i didnt get over 220rwhp, and more likely 250rwhp again depending on intercooling and knock limit.

Gearbox
I didn't know at the time but looking back I may have had the 2nd gear issue just starting - I actually assumed it was the chain climbing. So, firstly I'd like to address that.

Rods
While it's apart I'd like to address the rods, I think aside from bolting the head down that's the physically weakest point in any engine for a turbo setup. Mine came on pretty hard as it was at 2x stock power, I can't imagine it being particularly easy on rods with another 30% power and that has to be getting into the 'not overengineered THAT far' window. Have ST1 cams this time so cylinder pressures will be lower which helps, but engine speeds will be higher, so it's better in one area and worse in another. Perhaps if I stuck to 220rwhp I might have luck.

Pistons
Generally in my experience (mostly cars, but engines are engines) pistons are good for whatever you can throw at them but it seems daft to upgrade the gearbox and rods, but keep standard pistons running a turbo on a knock limited fuel.

I assume stock pistons are a cast design, although lots of bikes are forged so maybe someone has feedback on that?

Also these blocks, are they plated or can pistons be dropped in with a light hone?

[GSX1400Convert]

Thanks mate great responses.

Building a turbo streetbike, I did one a decade ago 140rwhp out of injectors and clutch, 178rwhp well and truly out of fuel pump. That was on 98RON (93AKI) with no intercooler.

Doing another, power will depend on intercooling and knock limit but Id be disappointed if i didnt get over 220rwhp, and more likely 250rwhp again depending on intercooling and knock limit.

Gearbox
I didn't know at the time but looking back I may have had the 2nd gear issue just starting - I actually assumed it was the chain climbing. So, firstly I'd like to address that.

Rods

While it's apart I'd like to address the rods, I think aside from bolting the head down that's the physically weakest point in any engine for a turbo setup. Mine came on pretty hard as it was at 2x stock power, I can't imagine it being particularly easy on rods with another 30% power and that has to be getting into the 'not overengineered THAT far' window. Have ST1 cams this time so cylinder pressures will be lower which helps, but engine speeds will be higher, so it's better in one area and worse in another. Perhaps if I stuck to 220rwhp I might have luck.

Pistons
Generally in my experience (mostly cars, but engines are engines) pistons are good for whatever you can throw at them but it seems daft to upgrade the gearbox and rods, but keep standard pistons running a turbo on a knock limited fuel.

I assume stock pistons are a cast design, although lots of bikes are forged so maybe someone has feedback on that?

Also these blocks, are they plated or can pistons be dropped in with a light hone?

Is that the one that was built in Qld, with the under swing-arm turbo, and is for sale in WA?

[Shifty]

That was it. Built it a long time ago when I didn't know much, but still did the job nicely.

[BlackAdder]

Taking that you are located down under, Phill Tainton Racing (PTR) might be a place to start.

The weakest link in the GSX would be the 2/6th gears lugs giving up. The next might be the driven axle it self at the front sprocket end - they've been snapped on several hi-hp busas, and the gearbox incl. everything is exactly the same, only difference is the 1st and 6th gears ratios. So, if you find a busa gearbox part, it will fit. I'm running APE raceparts gearshifter axles and Nova heavy-duty driven axle made for busa in mine. No issues. I would guess that the clutch would be pretty much interchangeable as well but on that I dont have any verified data. But the OEM clutch should be able tohandle that kind of power with heavyer springs.

What comes to Carillo rods, PTR sells them. Should not be that hard to order but they do come with a price tag.

Cams timing aint that bad, take the oem cam gears to machinist to make the bolt holes bigger.

Studs would be M10x1,25, 205mm long what I recall, adain APE raceparts and busa kit. The thing is that the busa studs are just a tad too short, you can make it work but it is a bit iffy. And you need 12 of them and busa has only 10. Using the studs makes the engine dissasembly a bit more annoying, and there aint really a need for them IMHO - less drama with the OEM.

The st1's might not be the best ones for you if turboing the engine, they might just be a bit too extreme for that. And the valve head is way too clogged as well...   

[BlackAdder]

...never mind the engine stud reference, I suppose that you are rising the cylinder block to cope comp, so the busa studs will bee way too short...

And the ratios:


1.gen busa                1400

1 - 2.615                 2,916
2 - 1.937                 1,937
3 - 1.526                 1,526
4 - 1.285                 1,285
5 - 1.136                 1,136
6 - 1.043                 1,000