Help with bike lying up

[Hooli]

That looks a little close to the shock nut, which is what appears to have caused the damage. I'd turn the bolt around in the bottom of the shock & see if it gives enough clearance before putting new cans on.

[gsxbarmy]

I agree with Andy. The can on the left gets real close even as standard on the rear which nut/ bolt fir which the nut should be on the inside.

[dennisgsy]

Found out what was shortening .
The live + cable that is on the base of the fuel pump housing ,was shortening on the base.
It was making contact with the base.
Insulating tape stopped the fuse blowing and the pump now primes
Doesn't start still,something for me to mess with another day.
€50 gone on nothing
And all it was was a cable with no insulation 

This sounds very similar to the problem I'm having which started when the fuel cross-over pipe started leaking and petrol dripped overnight down through the wiring harness 
After drying everything out and fixing the leak the CHEC light comes on and the fuel pump relay just clicks. I checked the resistance across the two leads to the fuel pump with it unplugged from the main harness. I'm get zero ohms reading which doesn't sound right. Do you or anyone on the forum know what sort of resistance reading I should get? I'm also wondering if the relay will need replacing or did yours still work after fixing the short? Thanks for any advice or help you can give.

[Andre]

@dennisgsy I checked a functioning fuel pump and got 20 Ohm.

To check the pump, give it 12 volt straight. Another way to do it: See service manual page 4-50

The relay clicks, which is a good sign. To check fuel pump relay see service manual page 4-51

[dennisgsy]

Thanks for your feedback.

Today I removed the fuel tank, took out the fuel pump and the relay, which I took to a local auto-electrical service garage. He checked the resistance across the fuel pump leads and it read 0 ohms on a 20K ohms metre setting, the same as I was getting. He thought this was normal and proceeded to test the pump with a battery and it spun up normally. The next test was to use the relay, as if in circuit, and the relay activated the pump as it should.
When I refitted it to the bike I still get problems. The neutral light dims, and flickers, the fuel pump relay is constantly clicking, and when I hit the starter button there's another clicking sound in the area around the injectors. The battery voltage was charged to +13v but it maybe be close to end of life.

So just to recap, the problems started when the fuel cross-over pipe leaked at the fitting near the rear of the fuel tank.  Petrol dripped slowly overnight into the wiring harness in the area below the leak. The first thing I did with the fuel tank lifted was to unplug all the connectors between the injectors and in front of the battery. Then I used an air-line to dry everything out as best I could. I slackened off the left-hand engine casing to make sure there was no trapped fuel which could have run down the wiring harness. Only a few drips of oil came out so I tightened the engine casing back up. With everything reconnected there is no F1 error and therefore no error code to investigate.
If you or anyone has any suggestions on how to check the electrics and pinpoint the problem I'd be very grateful   
I can video the symptoms tomorrow.

[Will14]

Thanks for your feedback.

Today I removed the fuel tank, took out the fuel pump and the relay, which I took to a local auto-electrical service garage. He checked the resistance across the fuel pump leads and it read 0 ohms on a 20K ohms metre setting, the same as I was getting. He thought this was normal and proceeded to test the pump with a battery and it spun up normally. The next test was to use the relay, as if in circuit, and the relay activated the pump as it should.
When I refitted it to the bike I still get problems. The neutral light dims, and flickers, the fuel pump relay is constantly clicking, and when I hit the starter button there's another clicking sound in the area around the injectors. The battery voltage was charged to +13v but it maybe be close to end of life.

So just to recap, the problems started when the fuel cross-over pipe leaked at the fitting near the rear of the fuel tank.  Petrol dripped slowly overnight into the wiring harness in the area below the leak. The first thing I did with the fuel tank lifted was to unplug all the connectors between the injectors and in front of the battery. Then I used an air-line to dry everything out as best I could. I slackened off the left-hand engine casing to make sure there was no trapped fuel which could have run down the wiring harness. Only a few drips of oil came out so I tightened the engine casing back up. With everything reconnected there is no F1 error and therefore no error code to investigate.
If you or anyone has any suggestions on how to check the electrics and pinpoint the problem I'd be very grateful   
I can video the symptoms tomorrow.

To me it sounds possibly like either a battery issue (try leaving your multi meter connected to the battery when pressing the start button and see what the meter drops to) or possibly an earth problem (trace the earth lead from the battery to the other end and make sure the contact is clean & secure) for a start, best to check the easy possibilities before delving deeper

Cheers

Pete

[Hooli]

From memory the earth from the battery goes to a bolt on top of the gearbox on the same side of the bike.

[Andre]

As Hooli and Will say. There is also a branch-off of the large cable close to the battery. Easy to see as there is a connector. Into that wire other earth wires (over a dozen) from various places are spliced in. Four of them come from the ECU (I know because one of them was broken on my 14). The connector is a weak spot and deserves periodic attention. I got rid of the connector and replaced the wire with a thicker one. Also replaced the thick cable to the gearbox with a larger one.

First (and easiest) thing first though: Check the battery or have it checked.

[KiwiCol]

I agree with Andre re checking the battery.

An easy way to see if it's that, is to just hook up jumper cables to it (as if it were a flat battery) from your car or other & have a crack at starting it then.  If she fires up, bingo, it's your battery. If it's the same, it's not the battery. 

[dennisgsy]

Thanks for all your suggestions and contributions. I was convinced the battery was in good condition as it was reading more than 13V however I connected the battery from my other bike and it turned over. Evidently the old battery wasn't supplying sufficient amperage under load. Feeling relieved and a bit embarrassed not to have done this rookie test before. The morale is to double check everything and assume nothing   

[Andre]

All sorted - all good

[Suzuki boi]

Howdy lads and lassies.
Haven't been on this forum in awhile.
Mr.Corona has been a pain in the nut sack.
Especially with all the kids having no school!!.
Managed to get a job that can be done from home so not all bad!
Anyway the gsx1400 is still going strong. I've had no funds to repair the alternator issue so that's still present.
Tho I noticed a few months ago the brand new forks I put on last summer are knackered already. Absolute s**t quality.

The exhaust issue has to be because the collector box part that fixes to the bike has just vanished.
So need a new one of them. Might I add,the collector box was only fitted last summer aswell!

[Andre]

Sorry to hear about your situation. Also sorry that you have been taken with the stanchions. To guard others from buying this crap, here is a quote showing where you got them from:

I've sourced 2 tubes from ABE (All bike engineering) for £90 a tube and £20 delivery to Ireland. That's a good price.
Cheapest here is €320 for 2.

This is their website:
http://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/forks.php

EDIT: see following posts by Suzuki boi

[kquacker]

That's terrible. I had my originals re- chromed by EG Manly in Meath at €180 for the pair.

[Suzuki boi]

Sorry to hear about your situation. Also sorry that you have been taken with the stanchions. To guard others from buying this crap, here is a quote showing where you got them from:

I've sourced 2 tubes from ABE (All bike engineering) for £90 a tube and £20 delivery to Ireland. That's a good price.
Cheapest here is €320 for 2.

This is their website:
http://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/forks.php

Hi Andre.
In the end I never got the tubes from them, tho now I wish I did.
I bought it from an Irish company here and think it was an Italian brand.
I spoke to a lad not long after fitting them and he the the all bike engineering stuff is actually good quality and I should of bought it from them