Fit an Aftermarket Undertray

Started by gsxbarmy, Monday, 06 February 2017, 01:50 AM

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gsxbarmy

NOTE: This thread is also available to download as a PDF file from the Downloads (General) Section

Fitting an Aftermarket Undertray

These instructions relate particularly to the fitting of an Ermax undertray but are as relevant for other aftermarket undertrays, the difference being that you may need to adjust where the cut needs to be made to remove a part section of the OEM tray (in order for the aftermarket one to fit).
First start off by removing the tailpiece such that the OEM tray is visible.
The first thing to do is to remove the shovel of the OEM tray. Using a hacksaw, cut along the bottom of the tray in-line with the two flanges (where the black clips go in from the tailpiece). You need to cut just under the flanges so the flanges remain in place.
For many, taking the hacksaw and making the first cut is the scariest move - Be Brave!



Once the shovel is cut off, you'll be left with the back of your like looking something like this



You now need to decide how much of the underside centre of the OEM undertray you need to cut out in order for the aftermarket one to fit. This will vary by manufacturer. For the Ermax one, I found that just behind the warning sticker (towards the tail piece) was about right.
TIP:   You might find it easier to fit the undertray by removing the offside (right hand) shock absorber but be sure your bike is stable before doing so, put it on the mainstand and block up under the rear wheel so it is supported to save putting strain on the other shock, also to hold the swing arm in line to make it easier to refit the shock at a latte stage)
(Apologies here for the quality of photo)



Once all the trimming out is done and the aftermarket tray fits snugly up against the OEM undertray, then you will be left with a back end looking similar to this



Now it's a question of refitting everything. First put the aftermarket tray in place and refit your rear shock (if you took it off. Then refit the tail (you may find when you first fit the tail that you may need to trim part of the flanges or the OEM tray to get it all to fit back perfectly normal).
TIP:   When refitting the tailpiece don't forget to re-attach your seat lock!!
OK, that's it â€" with the new undertray in place, everything should be back to normal!


Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:

Mark Halliwell

thanks for the thread & sorry for the delay in replying,for some reason this notification whent to my junk file but I think I've cured it now

drew fisher

Hello. Did you have to trim ANYTHING off the ermax tray ? I am fitting one at the moment and it looks like the ermax tray is a little too wide. The instructions supplied are bloody awful.

gsxbarmy

#3
Quote from: drew fisher on Wednesday, 28 November  2018, 07:25 AM
Hello. Did you have to trim ANYTHING off the ermax tray ? I am fitting one at the moment and it looks like the ermax tray is a little too wide. The instructions supplied are bloody awful.

I agree the instructions are abysmal - also they are different to how I fitted mine. Ermax seem to think you need to trim out almost the complete undertray - you don't.
No, I did't have to trim anything off the Ermax tray at all, however, to get it to fit in initially you have to remove the offside suspension leg, it won't just slide in (was that your problem?). That aside it is a nice tight snug fit (but it is precise - that's the quality of an Ermax undertray, the precise fit). Is your problem the undertray or fitting the tailpiece back on?

What (or where) exactly do you feel it a little wide?

@drew fisher
Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:

froudy

I've got 2 Ermax "copied" undertrays in the cave made by a mate of mine..Still haven't got round to trying them yet :rolleyes:
Assumption is the mother of all fuck ups!

drew fisher

ok. mine is fitted now and here is the part that nowhere in the world could tell me. Coming off your rear frame roughly below the seat are 2 sections of thinner frame or rails if you like. As you stand looking at the rear of the bike the tab on the undertray fits OVER THE LEFT SIDE AND UNDER THE RIGHT SIDE. This is why you need to remove the right shock. We decided in the end to cut the entire old tray away along the seam roughly level with the bolt holes for the front of the body work as the underside of the tray on my bike has spray deflecting fins that stop the new tray from sitting up high enough. I have emailed ermax to tell them the fitting instructions are shite and nowhere on line could I find this online. Folk may say it's bloody obvious that the tray goes over one rail and under the other but it depends on how and where you do the job plus your previous experience.

Shifty

#6
So I finally did this. It's a fairly big job, I am very handy and I reckon it still took me three or four hours.

My notes:

* Put the bike on the main/centrestand.
* Take the throttle-side shock off. Put the bike in neutral and rotate the wheel to pull a 2" block of wood underneath first, this will make fitting it back up easier. My undertray is an ermax, you cannot possibly fit it without removing the shock.
* The undertail gets put in place first, then you put the tail over as a complete unit. As mentioned, one side goes over the frame and one side goes under. Stuffs me why but that's how it is.
* If you have a Ventura rack, you will not be able to keep it without modifying the under tail as it covers one of the two rails the rack attaches to. A well placed hole for the mount would probably solve it but not 100% sure.
* Cut around the flange as per pictures above. You can remove the rearnost mounting tabs as I found they were a hindrance in fitting everything back up.
* I cut out a similar amount of the base as above, slightly less than where the warning sticker is. You certainly don't need to chop it in the centre.
* I am running standard indicators. The plugs go through but you will need to file the bottom edges down a tiny bit to get them through. They will be replaced as they look goofy now, but they will do the job for your initial install.
* Don't forget to plug the tail light back in as you reattach the tail. I didn't and it was fiddly to reattach it afterward.
* it would be handy to have a smaller hacksaw, a full size one made it tricky in spots. I used tin snips to help a few times.
* The white under tail is a bit much with a white hugger. I will probably paint the hugger black.

Hope this helps someone.

Milts

#7
  I too have just fitted an aftermarket tail tidy, and am very grateful for the advice given in the previous posts  :onya:

  I will include some photos to show the positioning of the tail tidy in and around the rear subframe, it may help others attempting a similar job.

  I fitted a clear LED rear light unit with integrated indicators but still using the standard indicators for the time being.



   






GSXKING

@Milts  I cannot believe how clean your bike is  :stir: :stir: :stir: :stir:
GSXKING 3:^)
Chris
Best allrounder I've ever owned 👍

Shifty

My Ermax unit lasted about a month before breaking. Ermax were good and gave me a refund, but I'm still out a few hundred bucks and lots of messing around after having to buy a new stock undertray (as you have to cut up the stock one so you have to replace it if removing) and pull the whole bike apart a second time.

Not overly chuffed with the whole experience, but again Ermax were good enough to do a refund.

Broke off the day after a ride on a very bumpy road (Somerset Dam for those who know), but either way it should be strong enough to handle a public road.

gsxbarmy

Looks like you fitted your number plate to that (ridulously small) bump in the fibre glass that is there as standard.

When I fitted an Ermax tray to mine, I looked at that and dismissed it as too feeble and fitted a tail tidy just in front of (at the back), with a plate of metal on the inside to give the number plate strength - never had an issue.

@Shifty
Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:

TwistedRider

I have one of these to fit, and it's scaring me slightly

Still not sure where the cut has to be but figure i'll see what it's like once the bodywork comes off.

But, how does one go about removing the shock? Have some fear about not being able to get it back on again.

Also keen to avoid the issue with the plate breaking off.   Any photos of the changes you made? @gsxbarmy

TIA.

KiwiCol

The shock is easy, just put on main stand & undo the bolts, slides right out, it's not under pressure or anything.  Might pay to put it at it's lowest setting though.
😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

TwistedRider

Quote from: KiwiCol on Thursday, 21 November  2019, 09:40 AM
The shock is easy, just put on main stand & undo the bolts, slides right out, it's not under pressure or anything.  Might pay to put it at it's lowest setting though.

cheers.

guess i start unbolting bits and work out how it all fits.

gsxbarmy

Quote from: TwistedRider on Thursday, 21 November  2019, 09:17 AM
I have one of these to fit, and it's scaring me slightly

Still not sure where the cut has to be but figure i'll see what it's like once the bodywork comes off.

But, how does one go about removing the shock? Have some fear about not being able to get it back on again.

Also keen to avoid the issue with the plate breaking off.   Any photos of the changes you made? @gsxbarmy

TIA.

Sorry no photos and sold my 14 some 3 years ago now. Regards the plate breaking off quite simply all I did was make a metal plate just a little larger than the tail tidy and drill holes through it to match the hole layout of the tail tidy itself. I then offered up the tail tidy to the undertray (essentially on mine the back of the tail tidy nudged against the small "block" that protruded from the Ermax undertray) whilst they were still off the bike, drilled through the undertray (using the bolt holes of the tail tidy as a guide) and then bolted the tail tidy through from the bottom using the plate I had manufactured on top to hold it all together (made it all nice and firm).

Removing and replacing the shock is dead easy. Put bike up on mainstand and then place a shovel under the rear wheel. Undo the bolts holding the shock and then raise the shovel up (by leaning on the handle) to offer support to the rear wheel whilst you (or your good lady) slides the shock off. Replacing the shock is the same procedure, just sliding the shock back on. Having just one shock on the bike holding the rear wheel and swing arm won't do any damage whilst you fit the undertray.
Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:

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