Manual cam chain tensioner

[northern]

Since I'm planning to upgrade cams, I'm also thinking of changing cam chain tension adjuster to manual one.
Issue is, I do not know for sure, which part to order...

I was looking on OEM part number, and find out what the very same part goes to GSX1400, GSX-R 600 01-03, GSX-R 750 00-03. Based on this, I assume APE part should also be the the same.
Is it APE ST750Y2K? Does anyone know?

[seth]

no real need my 14 has done over 40000 miles with yoshi cams and a total of 57000 miles still on original std camchain tensioner with no issues at all.

[northern]

Thanks for sharing, Seth.

I do not think, my chain adjuster need to be changed, but as I understand, the point of manual chain tensioner is, what there is possibility to ajust minimum slack, when OEM automatic will always press against the chain... Not completely sure is it good or irrelevant

[seth]

ive not had any problems with mine.
my bikes done 15 ish dyno runs over the years. done some big mileage touring fully loaded with camping gear ect.
only noises from the engine are from the valve train due to removing the pairs valves .
it's completely uo to you as your bike and piece of mind i think its not really needed.
i will be following with interest .
just out of interest what power commander will you/are you going to be using ?

[northern]

PCV  + autotune.
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum_test/index.php?topic=705.msg11069#msg11069

[seth]

i had forgot if you need a base map to mod i should be able to send you mine to use then mod via your auto tune.
i dont know if that's the best way or start with no map and let it do it for it's self.
but happy to send mine if you need .

[Teufel]

If you think your chain needs a bit more tension, you can remove the tensioner bolt, spring and ball bearing, put a screwdriver in the hole and give it a good shove. You will hear it click once maybe twice.
Voila!. Your chain will be quieter and have good tension.

[northern]

i had forgot if you need a base map to mod i should be able to send you mine to use then mod via your auto tune.
i dont know if that's the best way or start with no map and let it do it for it's self.
but happy to send mine if you need .

It's "not pleasant riding season" in my place (also known as winter), so cams will be longer project. Need to be finished by March. So my plan is to change them and then bring it to the dyno for proper tuning. But fir first starts, I would need some map, just to be able to start engine more or less properly. So, if you care to sare yours map I would be glad to use your map. 

[northern]

If you think your chain needs a bit more tension, you can remove the tensioner bolt, spring and ball bearing, put a screwdriver in the hole and give it a good shove. You will hear it click once maybe twice.
Voila!. Your chain will be quieter and have good tension.

To be honest, I do not think my chain need more tension. I'm just under impression, manual is better then automatic
I totally understand, what with my usage, there is possible no point to use manual tensioner... But for me bike is a hobby, so I don't have to search for ant point 

[Hooli]

Thanks for sharing, Seth.

I do not think, my chain adjuster need to be changed, but as I understand, the point of manual chain tensioner is, what there is possibility to ajust minimum slack, when OEM automatic will always press against the chain... Not completely sure is it good or irrelevant

I think they both work the same way & press on the chain to remove the slack. The only difference is you need to adjust one & not the other.

[northern]

Thanks for sharing, Seth.

I do not think, my chain adjuster need to be changed, but as I understand, the point of manual chain tensioner is, what there is possibility to ajust minimum slack, when OEM automatic will always press against the chain... Not completely sure is it good or irrelevant

I think they both work the same way & press on the chain to remove the slack. The only difference is you need to adjust one & not the other.

There is slight difference - Automatic press all the time against the chain, while with manual you setup the gap, without contentious pressure against the chain.

[Tony Nitrous]

Hydraulic ones have been know to have various pressures or fail,
springs get weak, performance motors have been known to back off
a little at high revs / closed throttle, some bikes never had a great
design from the start etc etc etc.

I've used one (APE) on a big bore GSX1100 motor, but never give the ones
on my current bikes a second thought other than removing the stock tensioner
on my 14 to give it a check and clean before I had a new camchain fitted.

There's nothing really wrong with manul tensioners other than paying for them,
and making sure keep an eye on them, a few seconds every oil change was my way.

Personally I wouldn't bother but each to their own.