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Clutch seal upgrade questions

Started by Speedy1959, Friday, 06 October 2017, 03:17 AM

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KiwiCol

Wee update with more madness regarding this seal.   I rang the local Suzuki dealer, said I wanted a seal & here's the part number. No, that's not a Suzuki part number.  I say yes it is, they say what's it for?  So I say a Busa clutch slave cyl.  What year?  Dunno what year, but it's that part number.  No, I've put it in again & nothing comes up. (I'm getting rather pissed by now)  :furious:
So (the girl) asks someone else in the background, nothing. So I say, have you got access to the internet & google?  She says yes, I say just enter that part number in google & see what pops up.  She does this & whaddya know, it's a Suzuki part number for a Busa (as well as other things)
So back to the parts computer & yep, finds it now. Says it's not for a Busa it's for a TL1000!  Good Grief!  It actually fits several applications but never mind.   Then Einstein says it's not available.  I say ok, don't worry about it, I'll get it online. Then she says, well we could get it in from Japan, Do you want me to order one for you? How much I ask? Oh, I haven't got a price showing.  :facepalm:

Yeah right!  Like I'm filled with confidence with this parts person, so I say no, I'll come in Saturday & check it's the same part you're ordering & get a price first.  :whatever:   
😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

froudy

#16
@KiwiCol

Hopefully you'll get it sorted out. My local "stealership" stocks the part, but as I said the price is a bit steep.
Fingers crossed my brother in law in Florida will be successful getting them from Partzilla :onya:

You can use this to prove to them that it definitely exists Col. Common application is DL 1000 V-Strom.
Assumption is the mother of all fuck ups!

grog

Col, if you get stuck ill buy and post you one. Mine was from local dealer, cant rem cost. Was a while back. Maybe $13 rings a bell, not sure. They def work. My fluid still clean. I think far more important is to keep pushrod clean into motor. Clean and lube with engine oil mixed with grease. An annual job i reckon. If that mongrel seal leaks its motor apart. I spray out the seal with whatever, brake cleaner, wd40. Just get it clean. Then insert rod 3 or 4 times with mixture, spin it around. Make sure the lube gets on seal. I run some 2000 grit paper over rod. Very fussy on that seal.

Andre

Quote from: grog on Wednesday, 23 May  2018, 06:15 PM
If that mongrel seal leaks its motor apart.

Guys on FB disagree.

QuoteBarry Gilbert Not engine out !! Heated cases gently with hot air gun, screwed in two self tappers to pull seal out , greased new seal and put back in easily ! Good luck

KiwiCol

Quote from: froudy on Wednesday, 23 May  2018, 05:30 PM
@KiwiCol

Hopefully you'll get it sorted out. My local "stealership" stocks the part, but as I said the price is a bit steep.
Fingers crossed my brother in law in Florida will be successful getting them from Partzilla :onya:

You can use this to prove to them that it definitely exists Col. Common application is DL 1000 V-Strom.
Partzilla?  That's the crowd I was talking to about their shipping cost (NZ$77) I told them I could get a whole refurb kit for $17 & shipping of $17 (USD) They replied too, basically said it wasn't up to them how much it costs to ship something, it was all calculated by the Global Shipping Centre & I could buy it or not, was up to me.  I choose NOT with a cost of $77 for a wee rubber seal. 
😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

KiwiCol

Quote from: grog on Wednesday, 23 May  2018, 06:15 PM
Col, if you get stuck ill buy and post you one. Mine was from local dealer, cant rem cost. Was a while back. Maybe $13 rings a bell, not sure. They def work. My fluid still clean. I think far more important is to keep pushrod clean into motor. Clean and lube with engine oil mixed with grease. An annual job i reckon. If that mongrel seal leaks its motor apart. I spray out the seal with whatever, brake cleaner, wd40. Just get it clean. Then insert rod 3 or 4 times with mixture, spin it around. Make sure the lube gets on seal. I run some 2000 grit paper over rod. Very fussy on that seal.
Cheers Grog, I'll let you know how I get on with them on Saturday.
😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

KiwiCol

@grog

Ordered the seal without issue this morning, in person at the dealer.  They don't have any in stock, but there's 2 in Wanganui & they'll be here Tuesday.  Cost $38 all up for the both of them. Way better price than E-Bay USA wanted.  Much better getting someone who knows what they're doing too.
😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

Speedy1959

Its a good upgrade Col.
I did mine when I first got it..
Put Car caliper slide grease under the rubber in the recess on mine (cant do any harm), but don't over pack it or the seal wont go into its slot properly.....

Don't ask me how I know !!

Dan B

For any one in Australia looking for this part:

https://bluecitymotorcycles.com.au/oem/suzuki/search-part?brand=suzuki&year=2004&model=2140&section=112425

If the link doesn't work, go to bluecitymotorcycles.com.au
Then in the drop down menus look up suzuki, 2004, DL-1000, clutch section and get the oil seal (part 34)
$20 plus usually $8 postage.
(Sold August 2020)
2008 K7 Model
-Full Akrapovic Race Exhaust System
-DNA Air filter
-PCIII

wades1400

Quote from: rollerfish01 on Wednesday, 23 May  2018, 01:27 AM
Done my upgrade today. :boogie2:
Last time when changing the front sprocket, I detached the inner engine sprocket cover and carelessly pull on the clutch lever.
As a result the metal plate (guard) deformed and let dirt accumulated. So this time do the clean up and upgrade the clutch seal. The clutch become smooth again ! :clapping:
shot some photos for whom may interested.
Big thanks to Andre & Rollerfish01.
Legends.
Just completed my clean up and up grade to include dust cover (23166-02F20  :  DUST SEAL_SLAVE CYLINDER ). 
My issue was that the fluid would drop below the lower level when riding.  Friction point seemed to change slightly, and the system would NOT bleed.  I think this was mainly due to the piston getting stuck from the road crud. 
Soooooo much better now.
note: I found it IMPORTANT to lube the inside of the slave body ( top 1/2) and the seal( First with Brake fluid and then with GREASE. This allows the new seal to recoil when you depress the spring. Push in the piston allow to recoil out a few times to ensure the seal is able to slide and is lubed enough.
I  bleed the system without the Master Cylinder cap on.   

KiwiCol

😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

1AW022

FYI
Brake fluid seals are made from EPDM
And are not compatible with any petroleum based products (oil/grease/degreaser etc)

Hooli

That's why red rubber grease is the only one you should use, if you need any. I've never needed to grease those slave cylinders when touching them.

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