tips on removing header pipes

Started by bikerperson, Thursday, 18 July 2019, 05:19 PM

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bikerperson

Hi people

is it straight forward to re move headers?
do you need to remove the oil cooler?

any advice gladly taken!

gsxbarmy

Quote from: bikerperson on Thursday, 18 July  2019, 05:19 PM
Hi people

is it straight forward to re move headers?
do you need to remove the oil cooler?

any advice gladly taken!

Depends!

If the headers have been off before AND the previous owner has applied some copaslip to the threads before re-attaching the headers, then all being well and good, all the bolts should undo ok. If not, and/or there is no copaslip on the threads, then there is a high probability that the header bolts will be an absolute so and so to remove and are likely to snap, needing an engineering firm (in most cases) to drill them out.

The 2 outer pipes generally are fairly easy to undo without removing the oil cooler. The 2 inner pipes, whilst you can undo the cooler and lean it forward slightly, arguably it is better to remove the cooler so you can get a socket directly onto the bolts - saves the risk of rounding the heads. Whatever you do, before removing any of the bolts, for the week prior to removal. I'd give them a good soaking in Plus Gas or WD40, hopefully some of that would then work its way around the threads.

Definitely patience is a virtue in removing headers!
Nothing to do.............all day to do it....I love retirement :lol:

Andre

I got mine out without any of them snapping. Oil cooler was off.

1) Soaking with WD40 for the last couple years fairly regularly.
2) Inserted Allen key socket with extension and gave a few light hammer strikes.
3) Tightened the bolts carefully (just a smidgen) till I heard/felt a light crack indicating the corrosive bond being broken.
4) Unscrewed the suckers.

I used the smallest socket wrench I have so to not be tempted to manhandle the bolts.

One bolt came out screeching all the way. Should have applied more WD40 and screwed her partially back in. But no harm done.

Applying heat may have helped but I only had a big burner available and didn't want to set the bike on fire :facepalm:

KiwiCol

Can you please advise where does a smidgen fit on the bawhairs / beesdick / tad / Gnats whisker scale?  Thx.
😎  Always looking for the next corner.  😎

grog

Col, at golf sometimes putts miss by a flys dick. Is that shorter than a bees dick.

grog


Del

 lots and lots of Swearing and profanities - and dont forget knuckle skin cause you know the rules if you aint bleeding you aint doing it properly
All Lives Matter
...until you multiply them by the speed of light squared. Then all lives energy.

A 'feuchainn gu cruaidh gus fuck a thoirt seachad - ach gu mì-fhortanach a' fàilligeadh

Andre

Quote from: KiwiCol on Thursday, 18 July  2019, 06:56 PM
Can you please advise where does a smidgen fit on the bawhairs / beesdick / tad / Gnats whisker scale?  Thx.

That's an easy one (after consulting https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/smidgen )

QuoteSynonyms for smidgen
ace, bit, crumb, dab, dram, driblet, glimmer, hint, lick, little, mite, nip, ounce, particle, peanuts, ray, scintilla, scruple, shade, shadow, shred, skosh, smack, smell, snap, soupçon, spark, spatter, speck, splash, spot, sprinkling, strain, streak, suspicion, tad, touch, trace

Smidgen = tad :rofl2:

froudy

I've had a couple of dramas removing header bolts over my 40 year span of bike tinkering :rolleyes:

My tips now are..
1. Give bolts a good dousing with Plusgas penetrating fluid for a few days before attempting removal. WD40 is ok, but Plusgas is far better!.

2. Smack a 1/4 drive 12mm multi point socket right over the head of the Allen bolts..Allen keys strip the head out far too easily. Plus the shock of hammering it on helps "Break" the rust. If you notice when one snaps it is usually in the collar area rather than actually within the head threaded section.

3. Attempt to undo the bolts. If you are unlucky one or more could snap, but generally I find they all come out.

4. If at ANY time during removal the bolt starts to squeal or go tight, add more Plusgas, take it back in a bit and then go again.

5. Once all the bolts are out, run a tap down the head threads to clean them out prior to reassembly.

6. Reassemble using Stainless bolts or the stud and nut method.

7. Reassemble using Nickelslip rather than Coppaslip as it is far more heat resistant.


Good Luck :onya: :onya:
Assumption is the mother of all fuck ups!

The Stumeister

I'm doing mine very shortly.....have been using plusgas on the bolts for a while now but still s****ing myself in case any bolts snap.......am hoping it will be all good.....i will say a little prayer tonight and hope for the best..lol!!! :grin:

Del

just take your time and dont force anything work in and out in and out in and out - if the bolt starts to tighten then more lubricant and heat and the occasional chap with a hammer always helps to loosen crud build up and allows penetrant to sort of em penetrate
All Lives Matter
...until you multiply them by the speed of light squared. Then all lives energy.

A 'feuchainn gu cruaidh gus fuck a thoirt seachad - ach gu mì-fhortanach a' fàilligeadh

grog

As already said, patience. All above tricks are needed.

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