Ping! - Bugger!

[Hooli]

Fitted my latest set of heated grips this morning, it all went well till I twisted the throttle to check I have enough slack in the wire. Ping went the pull cable, unsurprisingly right on the sharp curve as they turn downwards behind the cam cover.

Guess I'll be using the car next week while the part arrives then. Looks like £65 from Robinsons unless anyone has a  better idea?

[seth]

you can get a univeral repair kit from j&s just use the inner from the kit

[Hooli]

How do they work? I tried one with solder on ends once & got nowhere.

[lawrie]

Some of the larger nipples are screw-fix to the cable, but the throttle ones are quite small & therefore soldered on, & usually the reason these fail is due to incorrect fitting, the secret is NOT to fray the strands by bad cutting & absolute cleanliness AND tinning the wire first.
I always dip the end into a spray-paint cap filled with cellulose thinners & wiggle it about to remove any manufacturing oils.
SO, apply a good flux & tin the end of the wire, THEN cut the end to leave around 5mm or so of soldered wire, any longer & the cable won't wrap round the twist-tube, also, by soldering first, the cable should cut easier & not fray, this allows it to thread easily through the small nipple.
Dollop flux into the nipple, clamp the wire vertically between a couple of small bits of wood in a vice, leave just enough to just pass through the nipple, drop on the nipple so that say, half a mm or so is protruding, apply heat to it until the pre-soldered wire is melted, you can lightly dab a small amount of additional solder if you want, not too much, remember that wire-wrapping.
Carefully file or grind any protrusion flush to keep the nipple round & test-fit it into the housing...........job done!!
Bad soldering is nearly always down to not being absolutely clean, or not being heated enough, the solder must 'flow' & not 'blob', a 'blob' is not a soldered joint, its just a blob!!!
Some nipples have a tapered hole, i.e. bigger dia on one side, in this case, the wire must be fed INTO the smaller side & as it sticks out the other, a few strands of wire are pushed into the centre of the wire-cluster to 'expand' it into the taper thus making a very secure anchor for the cable.

[Hooli]

Great advice cheers.

[Mick_J]

Wilco also do replacement inners for push bikes (plenty strong enough for a throttle cable) and they have nipples on o you may only have to replace one end.  I made up a spare for my bike a couple of months ago, works perfectly.

[grog]

is this the first throttle cable thats broken on 14? cant rem. seeing before. happened all the time on my ducatis, at least 5x strength to turn throttle. might look into a spare

[Hooli]

It's the first one to break on mine, but at 113k miles I guess such things are allowed.

[Hooli]

Right I've thought about it & ordered a genuine one. The way I figure it is if one is worn to the point of snapping the other must be work too and as the genuine one comes with both cables then it's only £20 more than replacing both with universal bits. Plus I can coil up the good one I've still got & keep it under the seat just in case.

[Hooli]

Just to close this off.

It was fitting a proper one not just an inner as the throttle is much smoother & lighter now. I'd say the outer had worn too so it all needed replacing. I'l still keep the push cable as an emergency spare though, shouldn't need it for about 10years mind...