Fork seals need replacing, minor pitting forks

[j_rider]

I took my bike for its pre-rego safety inspection here in Sydney. Knew that I had some minor oil weeping on both fork stanchions since prepping the bike to ride again 6 weeks ago (after 6 months of it sitting while recovering from a knee op). Didn't realise that I would have to replace fork seals before being OK'd for inspection.

Minor pitting (3-5 spots on each leg) in area of stanchions that the seals pass back and forth over. More significant pitting on the upper stanchions.

So, couple of questions:

- in Aus, anyone familiar with a fair cost at a mechanic's of cleaning up minor pitting, replacing both fork seals and oil in both legs?

- assuming the minor pitting is smoothed down by the mechanic, am I likely to be in the same boat (weeping seals) again in 12 months time? If so, is rechroming stanchions or replacing with a better set of forks/stanchions the only real way to minimise the risk of this in future?

- I am 100kg geared up - have read some differing views on the forum here about whether upgrading springs is worth it. This extra cost of safety inspection was unexpected, so want to keep the cost down as much as possible, but would consider upgrading springs now while forks are apart if I would get a better result. I had upgraded Ohlins springs in my previous SV650, which made a big difference, but I chalked much of that up to getting the right weight springs rather than the quality of springs. If I do bite the bullet on the springs, what brands are worthwhile buying?

Thanks. Ride safe, J

[KiwiCol]

It all depends on how bad (deep) the pitting is.  Often some 1000 /1500 wet & dry (used wet) will remove minor pitting & allow the seals to glide over without damaging themselves. It's the rough edges that rip the seals, hence sanding them smooth 'fixes' it cheaply.
The seal replacement can be done at home with basic tools & a 'sharpened broom handle' used to hold the internal spinning part.  You might need to buy a long hex key socket for the bolt under the axle though.
There's a download on 'how to' for seal replacement. (https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=19 )

I've circled the link you click on to download the PDF as it's not strikingly obvious

Have a read over the procedure & see if it's something you'd feel comfortable with, it really is pretty straightforward.

If you're looking to save dosh, don't think about upgrading the springs, at 100kg geared up, you're not a heavyweight & the std springs are quite sufficient.

If you do want to go the uprated spring route, my suggestion would be to take it to a suspension specialist & have them do the work & set the bike up for you.  It will be more expensive (by a lot) than doing it yourself, but it'll be done right & faster than you could do yourself. Having the front set up by a pro means it's a 1 time deal, fixed forever, just oil changes after that.

[Eric GSX1400K3]

As KiwiCol said, a bit of wet'n dry will resolve the pitting. Unless the chrome is really bad, I wouldn't worry about it too much.  Replacing seals is easy. Use oem suzuki seals, try Webike japan for better pricing. Take it steady if DIY, and make sure you have a place to clamp them vertically. I use one of those tradie workmate things. They clamp the stanchion just nice, and then you can ensure to get the right oil level.  I'm around the 100kg fully kitted up as well, I've had my K3 for about 8 years now and never felt the need for aftermarket springs.  Lots of adjustments in the settings available. You can go up from 5w to 10w oil (maybe in between even). But I reckon the std wt oil is fine, then it's just fine tuning the compression, rebound, and damping settings.

[grog]

Mate, obviously a few choices for you, all depends on dollars to spend. Seals, oil change etc all fairly easy, just follow instructions provided.My way, mechanic by trade, i just cant be bothered with forks.Suspension shop local, full service, seals changed, Wilbers progressive springs, set to me 90 kg,$400.Was a huge upgrade, can remember first long ride, they mustve fixed this bumpy road, they hadnt😂 Now just oil change, job done, preload set lightly, rebound also, no more pogo stick, no dipping at gear changes. Just my opinion

[Hooli]

I've never seen the point of uprated springs in a 14. I've ridden lots of standard ones & a couple with Hagon progressive springs. TBH unless you set the damping & preload too soft you'd never feel the progressive bit of the spring. I don't think the ride was any better either.

I've had cars that progressive springs improved, so I get what they do. I just don't think it's any advantage in a 14.

[grog]

Unfortunatly Hooli i disagree. Mine much more compliant, each to their own.

[Hooli]

I've never tried Wilbers grog, so can only comment on the hagon ones I tried. I'm sure they've got different spring rates etc.

[grog]

Yeah Mate, no idea really, just felt better to me, all that matters.

[j_rider]

Thanks everyone, as always, for the prompt answers and comprehensive replies.

As my rego is due this week and I have never done much wrenching (of the level of fork seal replacement), I think I am going to have my mechanic sort this out this time (and then continue reading/learning/trying to improve my mechanical abilities for next time).

Going to stick with the stock springs for now too and try a few suspension settings for the front of a 14 that have been posted on the forum by guys with a similar weight to me

If you happen to be around 90-100kg and have found suspension settings with the stock springs that you enjoy, feel free to post them here as I may have missed them while searching the rest of the site. Recommendations for front forks and rear shocks welcome.

[Hooli]

Most people find the MCN settings about right.

https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=213.0

It's what I've set two mates bikes too (with slight variations) and both are happy with how much better the bikes ride. The mods were one is a thin lightweight lass so I reduced the preload by a about 1/4 but left the damping settings.

Mine is nearly set to the MCN settings too. Except front compression, that would be but the adjuster seized years ago so it's one click soft & just occasionally after riding other 14s I think I should fix it because they do ride a little better.

[Nic]

I like the race tech springs in mine. With good road conditions you set the front a bit harder/firmer and then you really see the benefit.
 Unfortunately the roads around my area are a joke n I have the forks set pretty relaxed but still a good improvement over stock.