BA's BB 1700

[BlackAdder]

Okay, I just got back from our Euro-tour: Sweden, Denmark, Germany (our cabin was at Adenau, we could see the Nürborgring from there) France, Switzerland, Italy and back. We did the "Route des grandes Alpes", effin epic roads and scenerys there. The gsx came back in one piece but I did have some issues.

The Hel oilcooler hoses leak and thats the main leak. And combined with movement all the oil spills to the rear tyre. No wonder that it felt a bit slippery every now and then. Actually every time when I got my knee down the rear end was sliding. And the oil consumption was insane. Yes it leaks a bit from the cylinders as well (as Maggy  had he's doubts at the previous forum) but that is fixable.

Wide open throttle - it burns oil. A blue cloud is present when opening the throttle. Might be a busted (or fail installation) piston oilring, insufficient crank breathing, leaking valve stem seals or all above combined.

The engine is jerky, every time opening the throttle it's kinda on or off. I think that it might be fixed just by adjusting the TPS slightly.

I lost pover to instruments, indicators, rear light and brake light. It was burning fuses and I thought that the harrness to the front light might be the issue. The electrics died when: turning the lights on, pulling the clutch and when turning the handle bars left, very irregular. The fault was a broken zip tie and the wiring loom hanging on the engine under the tank. The wiring loom had taken so much heat that 3 wires were exposed and when the engine was hot enough they would short. A bit of electric tape and we were on the road again.

There aint that many riding days left here so I suppose I'll be just adding oil every now and then, and come winter I'll try to score a bigger oil cooler (I'm open for suggestions) and change the hoses. And now I'm again thinking about the Busas ECU...

...oh, and I found the reason for the c28 - altho the STVA does the initial sweep, it aint doing rat's ass when the engine is running. Now that is some what weird but theres something wrong with the actuator it self. At the mean time there's half of the original throttle body assembly zip tied in front of the battery compartment fooling the ECU, and it seems to work (altho it's not even close to what I want but...)

Does anyone remember the oem number for the audi 80/100 fuel pump? I have it some where safe the part number, so safe that I cant find it :D


E: dont fit a /50-profile front tyre in the gsx, especially if you run shorter front shocks or jack-up kit at the rear, it is horrifying to ride. The front is nervous, it starts to wobble if you let go of the bars at ~90km/h, and it's wobbling all the time at +200km/h. Terrifying experience I'd say.  The reason why I fitted less than adequate profile front was that that was the only thing I got my hands on a 1 day notice. After the dyno it just hit me that I cant go to the cold alps with street legal race slicks as they are pretty sceary slippery when they are cold and/or when it's wet (I had used Diablo Supercorsas fitted under and whilst they are awesome grip wise and for handling when warm, theyr not so much grippy when cold...)

[T 24]

My fuel pump is from Audi A6 1.8T and 2.4 (Motonet 28-1441, 89,90€). Fits straight, only electrical connectors must be changed.

And about that bigger oil cooler: with bigger oil cooler would be good idea to use some kind of thermostat.
I will fit a Mocal thermostat to my 14, because it is running too cold in cold weather and in nice cruising use. With std. cooler.

[BlackAdder]

Okay, I'll be heading to the closest Motonet then, if it works in your setup, it most definetly will work on mine too.

Yeah, mine runs wayy too hot for some reason. The oil temp after the power run was closer to 200C (it was running lean, it played the c28 and one sparkplug gave up at the same time) but still too hot. I should actually monitor the running temps whilst driving, it might be totally different when the engine is running as supposed to. Took it for a ride yesturday and I noticed that the jerkyness is even worse now, maybe the throttlebodies are out of sync or the spreader axle I made between 2&3 TB is giving up, or the TPS is out of range. Anyways it's annoying.

And the thermostat aint that bad of an idea altho there should be some kind of diverter valve in the oil system if I remember right - when cold the oil should not get to the cooler, at least not all of it.

[northern]

@BlackAdder
What about your 1700 build? Long time no posts...

[BlackAdder]

Well, long story short - the beastie is a bit more of an ass than a beast :D

I've had some problems with the clutch. First it grabbed too hard for couple of days and after that it started to slip. So IT was in the garage for... ...well too long as the better friction plates seemed to be sold out everywhere. Had my vacation in between and still no clutch parts so I ordered the one that I could get my hands on.

I pulled the clutch cover couple days back and to my surprise the old ones didnt seem that bad, but I changed them anyways. I didnt have calliper at that garage so I couldnt measure the thickness but I did assume that they might be worn out, 20 thou (km) in the clock anyways allready. Actually might be more.... ...anyways, 70km ride, no problems at all and the next morning I got 10 meters from the parking lot and the clutch was gone totally - didnt engage at all. So for the first time I had to get my van to pick up the beastie. Back to garage and pulled the clutch cover and clutch to find out that the clutch basket nut had come loose (again). So the was nothing wrong in the friction plates after all - no wonder they seemed to be in pretty good condition..

...ok, same 70 km ride back and the next morning there was a small puddle of oil underneath the bike. Yupp, the clutch cover gasget had had it so that was the next thing to fix. In the evening I went for a ride with a friend and the bike started jerking and stuttering on hard accelerations. Or it got worse. I had a pretty good idea what was wrong - fuel pump was going. It has been jerk every now and then but now it got very bad Soo now theres a high volume Walbro in place and it delivers. A LOT. Actually a bit too much - it runs so rich that it wont revv over 3000ish. And that's a guestimation as my tacho died this morning as well...

So now I'm trying to find a guy that would weld titanium so that I could get a lambda-sensor attached to the exhaust so that I could take it to the dyno. As soon as possible of course. And yes, should have done it way earlier but I've had some personal stuff going on...

And the worst oil leak is gone now, I ordered hydraulic lines to replace the HEL ones and it has helped a lot. I also added another crank breather line witch helped a bit as well, but I suppose it's still insufficient - need bigger hose there.

[northern]

Hope you solve all issues, and really waiting dyno results 
Good luck!

[Blubber]

Well, long story short - the beastie is a bit more of an ass than a beast :D

I've had some problems with the clutch. First it grabbed too hard for couple of days and after that it started to slip. So IT was in the garage for... ...well too long as the better friction plates seemed to be sold out everywhere. Had my vacation in between and still no clutch parts so I ordered the one that I could get my hands on.

I pulled the clutch cover couple days back and to my surprise the old ones didnt seem that bad, but I changed them anyways. I didnt have calliper at that garage so I couldnt measure the thickness but I did assume that they might be worn out, 20 thou (km) in the clock anyways allready. Actually might be more.... ...anyways, 70km ride, no problems at all and the next morning I got 10 meters from the parking lot and the clutch was gone totally - didnt engage at all. So for the first time I had to get my van to pick up the beastie. Back to garage and pulled the clutch cover and clutch to find out that the clutch basket nut had come loose (again). So the was nothing wrong in the friction plates after all - no wonder they seemed to be in pretty good condition..

...ok, same 70 km ride back and the next morning there was a small puddle of oil underneath the bike. Yupp, the clutch cover gasget had had it so that was the next thing to fix. In the evening I went for a ride with a friend and the bike started jerking and stuttering on hard accelerations. Or it got worse. I had a pretty good idea what was wrong - fuel pump was going. It has been jerk every now and then but now it got very bad Soo now theres a high volume Walbro in place and it delivers. A LOT. Actually a bit too much - it runs so rich that it wont revv over 3000ish. And that's a guestimation as my tacho died this morning as well...

So now I'm trying to find a guy that would weld titanium so that I could get a lambda-sensor attached to the exhaust so that I could take it to the dyno. As soon as possible of course. And yes, should have done it way earlier but I've had some personal stuff going on...

And the worst oil leak is gone now, I ordered hydraulic lines to replace the HEL ones and it has helped a lot. I also added another crank breather line witch helped a bit as well, but I suppose it's still insufficient - need bigger hose there.

So.. you are saying: the stock case ventilation is to small?

[BlackAdder]

So.. you are saying: the stock case ventilation is to small?

To be honest - I dont know but it might a contributing factor to the small leaks. I happened to check one beemer (car) engine as it had breather problems and started thinking that it was a smaller engine than what I have in the bike, doesnt revv nearly as high and still the crank breather was double in size. I do have an extra breather in the plug you add oil but that might not be the best option for breather after all - obstructions in the way. But it does something.

I suppose I'll check the valve head oil drain tubes gaskets after the season is over, but it's an easy and fast way for me just to increase the breather hoze diameter.

Oh yeah, friend tinkered with the bikes pc3 earlyer today and most likely the pump was going allready last year when I had it dynoed. For some reason my laptop couldnt find the pc3 but he's did - straight from idle it was +25% of fuel and after 3000rpm it was full 100% if I heard him right. He said that he got it to somewhat rideable configuration but that is still way of. He said that you cant even dream of usingfull throttle with anything smaller that 4th gear - too scary, too powerfull, too torqy. Let's see whats it like but now it at least the descriotion sounds like what that engine combo should produce. The best news for a long whilefor me

[Bielie45]

Sounds like Your fuel pump is to big, supplying to much fuel. The standard fuel reg cant bypass fast enough so the rail pressure is to high. Have you done a fuel pressure test after fitting your new pump?

[BlackAdder]

Hmm, nope, have not checked the rail pressure. Yes, it's getting too much fuel but the pc3 was cranked up to max so there should be quite a lot of reserve to decrease the opening times ot the injectors. Now this was just a very rough tinkerind with the pc3 just to get it some what rideable (had a broadband lambda attached, test drive and tinkering with the maps after the drive)  I have not seen the maps my self yet so a glance at those will tell if it's programmable with the pc3 or do I still have to do more mods to the hardware side.

[Bielie45]

Good  if you could get it tuned.
In my experiance the 'non return' fuel injection systems like the 14 has,  run at best at 3bar fuel pressure. Very tunable and the pump is not strained and as the pump gets old the influince in tuning is very small and very slow.
Let us know how it goes, I am very interested, and sure a lot of others.

[Blubber]

I have been thinking about the case ventilation...being to small

You could try and use the pairs for extra ventilation?

Remove the flap valves and make a connection to a vent tank...which drains directly in the cases or the such..


Never mind that...the pairs system vent towards the exhaust system.