I'm having some rough starts in the wet that trigger an FI code (I'm thinking it's the plug boots because it's running rough as guts and it even stalled on me as I pulled up - definitely not a stand sensor type of cut out because I've had one of those on my old SV) anyone have some recommended plug leads - or just get NGK and I'll get a new set of plugs to match?
I'm also thinking of getting an Oil Temp Sensor as it seems to be giving me some inklings like it's not 100%, but they're out of stock every where besides the weird cheapo ones on the Bay. I've tried my usually random treasure troves and no results. So I'm just wondering what peoples thoughts are for a new Temp Sensor moving forward.
Plug leads, unscrew the caps, cut 5mm off the leads & screw them back on. Fixes it 99% of the time as the ends go mouldy & the leads come loose.
Oil temp sensor, check what it's reading resistance wise when cold. The chart in the manual gives a rough figure, the two I've known gone faulty were giving readings about 10x higher resistance than they should so the bike was massively overfueling. They were doing about 25mpg like that too, oddly enough seemed to run ok except a little rough at low revs though. I got a genuine sensor from webike japan & they're showing in stock there currently.
Old thread with the chart of readings in - from memory it's a black/white wire on the RH side of the airbox.
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=5868.15
Sensor at Webike, using the part no in that thread - https://japan.webike.net/ps/1365042F00/#!search&p.k=1365042F00
Hardest bit about replacing it was getting the allen bolts undone for that external oil line that blocks access to it.
A good jet of WD40 in spark plugs caps or some insulating product better for humidity......
If the spark plug wire can be replaced by unscrewing covers, it is better to put a good new wire and without electrical resistance to improve spark
Quote from: Barbastro K6 on Today at 03:23 AMIf the spark plug wire can be replaced by unscrewing covers, it is better to put a good new wire and without electrical resistance to improve spark
problem is the HT wire is potted into the coil pack end. The coil packs are nearly unobtainable or expensive if going oem.
2 coil packs, lh one does cylinder #1 and #3, rh one does cylinder #2 and #4.
Trimming the end of the leads works. Look for small grey marks with a black pin hole at the centre, those are indicators of arcing. The pin at the plug end is sharp and has a serrated top, just twist the plug cap onto the end. Spray CRC or WD40 into the cap to disperse any water.
You can check resistance of each lead from the coil pack terminal to the clean end of the lead. From memory should be around 16kOhm, the value doesn't matter actually, its that they should all be the same or similar. The odd ones out would be the dodgy ones
Same for spark plugs, all 4 should register about 6kOhm resistance. I recently had one read about 10kOhm higher than the other 3. Replaced all 4. Std plugs, no need for fancy iridium etc.
Quote from: Barbastro K6 on Today at 03:23 AMIf the spark plug wire can be replaced by unscrewing covers, it is better to put a good new wire and without electrical resistance to improve spark
Yea that's what I was thinking to replace the whole lead. But the others have commented that trimming is ok.
Quote from: Hooli on Today at 12:41 AMPlug leads, unscrew the caps, cut 5mm off the leads & screw them back on. Fixes it 99% of the time as the ends go mouldy & the leads come loose.
Oil temp sensor, check what it's reading resistance wise when cold. The chart in the manual gives a rough figure, the two I've known gone faulty were giving readings about 10x higher resistance than they should so the bike was massively overfueling. They were doing about 25mpg like that too, oddly enough seemed to run ok except a little rough at low revs though. I got a genuine sensor from webike japan & they're showing in stock there currently.
Old thread with the chart of readings in - from memory it's a black/white wire on the RH side of the airbox.
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=5868.15
Sensor at Webike, using the part no in that thread - https://japan.webike.net/ps/1365042F00/#!search&p.k=1365042F00
Hardest bit about replacing it was getting the allen bolts undone for that external oil line that blocks access to it.
Cheers Hooli, I appreciate your advice mate, I'll go ahead and trim the leads. Best practice tells me to replace, but Eric added some points that explain things a little further in terms of the HT Lead being the kicker in the whole scenario.
I'll check the oil temp sensor with a multi when I take the tank off to do the fuel sender and now the leads. It's starting to overfuel and get a little flamey out the cans. (May just be the plug and lead issue to be fair)
Its possible to get the oil temp sensor out without removing the tank. Looking from the rhs of the bike, the OTS sits in behind cylinder #2 and #3 right next to the starter motor. The sensor wire to it is held in by a clip and an M8 bolt. The two allen head bolts holding the sensor in are a bit hard to access, I managed with a little wobbler bar and ratchet. Don't drop these bolts. Sensor lifts out easy once the bolts are removed.
I connected the sensor terminals to my multi meter, I think you need to also remove the rh side panel to disconnect the sensor leads. Holding the sensor in your hand, you will see the resistance change as it heats up, indicating a working sensor. You can also put it in hot water and check against the values in the manual.
Forgot to add, check at the connector from the main loom, you should be getting 5V DC to the sensor at this point (ignition on, engine off)