Well chaps the project to sort out my new purchase and get it how I want it started today. If nothing else it's made me rather glad I hadn't tried to ride the thing first. The plan for the day was to get the swingarm out and the other bits I wanted to send for polishing. That's achieved with a few changes to the list as I went, I've decided the pegs & hangers will go for proper polishing as there's lots of surface marks on them so they'd look tatty compared to the professionally polished bits.
I started by removing the rear brake ready to take the wheel out, first thing off was the chav tat torque arm. Which doesn't even fit properly! The proper one as an S bend about an inch across to line up & this thing is a flat bar so had to be forced into place. Then the rear bolt was too long on the shank so didn't clamp it up as they'd used the original bolt. The next bit of joy was the banjo bolt was barely finger tight & the brake caliper was almost empty of fluid, oh & both pistons had seized in the caliper.
For reference, here's the difference in the torque arms.
IMG_20251226_120317.jpg
The wheel came out ok, except the spindle was half stuck due to very old grease that'd gone solid. Shocks came off & again the pivots were very sticky due to no grease so the suspension won't have worked smoothly.
Before I could drop the swing arm out I had to remove the engine bars as their brackets covered the swing arm pivot. They were coming off anyway so no loss there. I did find the engine mounts were only finger tight, bolts too short (you need longer ones with engine bars) and one of the threads into the frame is damaged so I need to sort that before it goes back together. Oh & they'd lost a washer for the front engine mounts & just not bothered with one on that side. But they had managed to do those ones up.
The swing arm came out fine after that, although they'd cocked up the rubber fittings for the chainguard. Rather than put one each side of the metal, they'd put one behind the bracket & added an extra nut to retain it!. A bit of time was spent draining the rear brake system so it's not dribbling fluid over the bench & such. Then the footpeg carriers and pillion peg brackets came off, revealing that the E-clip retaining the peg pivots was missing on two out of four pegs. Oh & one of the threads for the bolts holding the pillion brackets on has been stripped & forced in at an angle to start it. So that needs a helicoil before it goes back on. As is also traditional now, they'd lost a bit & just left it out, the six bolts that retain the rider's footpeg brackets have rubber washers behind, but only five washers were fitted. Oh yeah & the split pin for the rear master cylinder had been reused even though it'd half snapped off, the rest snapped as I spun the pin to find the end of it.
The rider's RH footpeg as removed, with missing E-clip.
IMG_20251226_133251.jpg
That's everything I'm doing at the backend apart so I moved forwards & the first thing I noticed was the rubbers on the tank brackets are fitted wrong, they're stacked up on top of the tank rather than around what they should retain. I've left that for now, the tank is going to come off for several jobs on another day so I can do it then.
There's an random flasher unit looking thing added to the wiring too, no idea why. I'd suspect the non-standard indicators fitted flashed wrong so rather than buy a LED compatible relay that replaces the original they've bodged this in.
IMG_20251226_134353.jpg
I'll work that out at some point & do things properly. I've actually got a spare LED relay on the shelf anyway.
Then just so it looked like I'd done something useful I've removed two more bits of chav tat, the awful fake carbon fibre around the petrol cap & edges of the tank.
Before
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IMG_20251226_141656.jpg
After
IMG_20251226_141610.jpg
IMG_20251226_141807.jpg
The petrol cap doesn't look amazing as the stick on polished top leaves a lip of normal alloy showing & stands slightly proud of the tank. I might take the extra off & just clean & paint the original cap in black so it fits in. I'll think about it.
Finally the oil cooler guard came off, I'll see if it can be polished as the matt black finish looks crap. As is typical of what I'm finding on this bike, it had washers on one side of the bike but not the other & three rusty bolts & one stainless one. I'll sort that out when it goes back on too.
But anyway, all the bits that came off went on the lawn to keep them out the way, except the back wheel as I found a place for that. So here's the pile of junk before spreading around back under the bike.
IMG_20251226_140659.jpg
The bike has been left like this, but covered up again as the roof leaks when windy and stops me scratching it when walking past.
IMG_20251226_142808.jpg
Not a bad three hours really. I've got everything off I need to send for polishing and found a load of issues to sort as I go.
Lots of work by the sounds of it, looking positive though.
So here's a general question on the hangers and footpegs, what is the standard finish. Is it painted alloy then clear coat or is it anodised, or what is it. :cheers:
I think it's anodised from what I've been told about them needing grit grinding to remove it prior to polishing.
As an aside on that, I need to get another torque arm as the one I got off ebay has got damage too deep to polish out & it'll show, but was hidden in the one pic they provided. Which is annoying.
Cheers for that, just wasn't sure as it's too hard for powdercoat
Good work Hooli, I look forward to the next instalment.
D.D.
Quote from: Dwain Dibley on Saturday, 27 December 2025, 07:03 AMGood work Hooli, I look forward to the next instalment.
D.D.
Don't hold your breath. I'll get the all the bits polished, order the extra parts I now know I need & put the back end together. Then I'll rip the front half apart & do the rest.
I might do small bits like strip & clean the clutch slave while waiting, but it's now mostly a waiting game again. The aim is to get it on the road for April to match when a mate gets her bike out.
Interesting read Hooli but you could have saved yourself a lot, of typing if you had just, told us what was right. :rofl2: :happy1:
Quote from: Mr Gee on Saturday, 27 December 2025, 10:01 AMInteresting read Hooli but you could have saved yourself a lot, of typing if you had just, told us what was right. :rofl2: :happy1:
I'll get back to you on that, when I find something :lol:
Quote from: Hooli on Saturday, 27 December 2025, 11:21 PMQuote from: Mr Gee on Saturday, 27 December 2025, 10:01 AMInteresting read Hooli but you could have saved yourself a lot, of typing if you had just, told us what was right. :rofl2: :happy1:
I'll get back to you on that, when I find something :lol:
Don't give up hope...Suzuki is spelt right on the tank.
@Hooli how are/were the swingarm bearings ?
I'm fairly sure mine are still original. It looks like quite the job to remove and replace.
Chris, fairly straightforward job, just no good for old backs☹️. Doubt new bearings required just clean and repack.Waterproof trailer grease.IMO.
Quote from: GSXKING on Sunday, 28 December 2025, 09:54 AM@Hooli how are/were the swingarm bearings ?
I'm fairly sure mine are still original. It looks like quite the job to remove and replace.
Absolutely fine, I'd suggest a regrease one day if they've never been done though. Just like the steering bearings Suzuki forgot to grease them properly. I've found that even on dry weather bikes the LH bearing gets a tiny bit of surface rust discolourisation on the cage as any condensation on the pivot area dribbles left when the bike is parked on the side stand.
TBH to most difficult part of the job is getting the rear brake disconnected without pouring brake fluid everywhere, as the hose goes through a loop on the inside of the swing arm you need to do this before removal.
The swing arm is light being alloy & I find it easy to hold in place with one hand as I slide the spindle out. The whole job really is as easy as -
Rear brake hose off, I disconnect it at the caliper & pump the fluid out with the pedal. Then crack the drain screws loose & remove the caliper. It drains out nicely then when tipped on it's side.
Wheel out.
Check the tank/airbox drain hoses are clear (if tucked into their original places they need moving as they go behind the swingarm's pivot tube.
Take the bottom bolts of out of the shocks remembering the swing arm will drop when you do so. it's a good time to remove the shocks & grease the pivots at both ends so the suspension moves smoother too.
Undo the swingarm pivot, it's about 27mm both ends but I forget exactly.
Support the swing arm and withdraw the pivot. They normally need a gentle tap to start moving as they've been in so long.
Then lower the swingarm out, it sides backwards, pointing down a bit & avoids everything in the way.
As the Haynes book of lies says, refitting is a reversal of removal.
Rear shocks just move on rubber bushes, dont pivot on metal bushes/bolts??? I grease to make sure they come out when needed.Thats always been my thinking🤷Always tighten with bike weight on them, puts bushes in mid range.
Quote from: grog on Monday, 29 December 2025, 04:49 PMRear shocks just move on rubber bushes, dont pivot on metal bushes/bolts??? I grease to make sure they come out when needed.Thats always been my thinking🤷Always tighten with bike weight on them, puts bushes in mid range.
The bushes have a little metal sleeve in the middle though, you want that to slide around the bolt rather than seize & wear the rubber. So I just smear the bolt lightly with grease, also makes them much easier to take apart in the future as it's a bugger to drive the bolt out if it seizes to the bolt.
I'm glad someone went though & liked a load of these posts, it's reminded me I need to contact the polishing guy & drop the bits off with him!
Although I'm replacing the chavvy axle nut so I might wait for the new one to arrive with my list of bits & send that with it so everything matches.
OK, that's quite a list of defects, but it looks like many are fairly minor.
It's obvious you know what you are doing and to look out for, I'm sure a lot of those niggles will quickly be crossed off the list.
Good luck with it, I'm looking forward to progress reports :)
Pete.
I'll stick this update I'd typed elsewhere to keep the story complete...
I've just ordered a box full of parts for 14 Mk2 from Webike Japan, the prices are so much cheaper over there for genuine bits.
When I stripped it down the other week, I made up a list of bits I needed or wanted to replace. Then genuine ones are as follows -
Ign cover gasket so I can do the free advancer mod (x2 as doing Sar's bike too)
Clutch cover gasket
All four grabrail bolts, as the wrong ones are fitted so bungees can't be used & the rail is loose
Steering stem nut, it's got a chav stainless thing that's not a domed nut so you can see the stem
Rear axle nut, again an ugly chav stainless thing
Rear disk bolts, I assume the wrong ones fitted are for the ugly wavey disk that's coming off
Oil cap, see ugly chav parts again
One (of the six) rubber washers under the footpeg bolts was missing
Total price from a UK dealer without postage - £284. Delivered from Japan - £65!
Once this lot turn up, I'll put the correct nut on the rear spindle & send the lot for polishing.
I've got some other bits to order, but those aren't genuine bits I want so they'll come from the usual sources.
Those are -
Lower engine mount bolts, I need longer than standard for the engine bars I'm fitting & even though this came with ugly bars they'd used the original bolts so had about 2 turns of thread holding the engine in!
Washers for the front engine mounts, it's got 1 out of 4 fitted
Metal bushings for the gear shift (x2 as doing Sar's bike too)
EBC rear wavey to match the fronts. I don't want waveys & I'm swapping with Sar, but she wants matching ones & it's still cheaper than me buying three proper disks
Still to order, new bars. I want the same ones Sar's bike has got as they're dead comfy for me. She wants different ones, so I'll order the new ones & have hers. Bars are all about the same price so it makes sense & I'll be fitting her new ones anyway.
ETA, I still need to get yet another torque arm as the last one I bought has a massive mark on it that won't polish out. I'll ring the local breaker when I remember.
Annoyingly I woke up today realising I think I need a throttle tube too. It's got these hard metal grips on & I suspect they're one piece & seem like they'll be uncomfy for more than 10mins. I've still got some original grips in a box in the garage that I plan to use on it.
I'll find out when I get to the front of the bike.
Tiny update.
This bike now has no bars etc fitted as I stole them to help bring my other 14 home. I can't even see how the metal grip comes off the left side, so that's another reason to use different ones on the new bars I'll get.
Oh & the latest parcel of goodies from Webike is due today, which means I should be able to drop all the parts in for polishing on Friday.
May as well take your time, I can't see any decent weather on the horizon for a while.
Thanks for sharing its good to see it coming along.
Got me buggered why anyone would replace the proper torque arm with a piece of flat steel... :whatever:
Quote from: VladTepes on Monday, 26 January 2026, 12:15 AMGot me buggered why anyone would replace the proper torque arm with a piece of flat steel... :whatever:
It's the 'magpie effect' they go 'oh shiny' and throw money away getting it. Same reason as most anodised tat people fit.
I know right - it is possible to make the OEM one shiny but yeah.
I got a photo off the polisher today, rather pretty isn't it?
WhatsApp Image 2026-02-05 at 11.52.48.jpeg
Now I need chance to get down there & collect all the bits as he doesn't work weekends.
That looks lovely
@Hooli - however I'm still trying to get my mind around Hooli and bling :lol:
Me too Dave, me too!
I'm thinking I might have to take the forks to him when I get that far, as I don't think they've been done that well so wouldn't look quite right.
"Aarghh, my eyes, my eyes!!!"
I hope you do the same detail for Mk 1 when it's her turn. :onya:
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 06 February 2026, 06:14 AMI hope you do the same detail for Mk 1 when it's her turn. :onya:
It's possible, she deserves it really. But I do like to have one to ride all year.
You've got snotbox for that. We should start a poll to see if Mk1 gets the bling treatment or not, :whistling: course it's easy to spend someone elses dosh :onya:
Looks awesome Hooli.Top job 👍
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 05 February 2026, 10:08 PMI got a photo off the polisher today, rather pretty isn't it?
WhatsApp Image 2026-02-05 at 11.52.48.jpeg
Now I need chance to get down there & collect all the bits as he doesn't work weekends.
A great job from the looks of it. Do you clear lacquer it to maintain the polished look ?
I've never heard of anyone having much success laquering a well polished surface, it always seems to peal & flake. I'll just have to use it in the dry & keep it cleaned. If I start muttering about Meguiars polish & stuff then that's a call for help as I'd be turning into Barmy :lol:
Quote from: Hooli on Friday, 06 February 2026, 07:16 PMIf I start muttering about Meguiars polish & stuff then that's a call for help as I'd be turning into Barmy :lol:
You know you want to really Andy :whistling: :rofl2: :rofl2: :rofl2:
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Saturday, 07 February 2026, 08:43 AMQuote from: Hooli on Friday, 06 February 2026, 07:16 PMIf I start muttering about Meguiars polish & stuff then that's a call for help as I'd be turning into Barmy :lol:
You know you want to really Andy :whistling: :rofl2: :rofl2: :rofl2:
But when the affliction gets worse I'd end up on a BMW :stir: :stir: :lol: :lol:
What is that stuff the swing arm is sitting on ?
Oh yes, it's one of those old fashioned newspaper thingys !
Quote from: Chrisl on Sunday, 08 February 2026, 05:03 AMWhat is that stuff the swing arm is sitting on ?
Oh yes, it's one of those old fashioned newspaper thingys !
Chip wrappers!
Not allowed to wrap chips in old newspapers anymore here, H&S moaning about the black ink! All those years we ate chips from a wrapped parcel and we never died, we must have been the tough ones, reckon they're a bit more wimpy these days.
I can actually remember my old Nan having squares of The Daily Mirror, hanging on string for use as toilet paper in the outside toilet !
We were definitely bought up in a different era.
Fish and chips in a wrapper of either old news paper or butchers paper with loads of salt and vinegar that brings back great memories. Now it's cardboard boxes etc.
There's a place in Birkdale called Chumley Warners that does old school fish and chips. Fish in batter that you're not supposed to eat as it's poached the fish. Chips are soggy. We tried it we didn't like it.
My favourite fish and chips in the modern style is Kostas in Capalaba. 😋😋😋 :cheers:
Ignore me, wrong thread.
Although I did clean the sprocket carrier up today, I think I need to do it again though before I start building the bike up. There was an amazing amount of crusty old black crap from the chain on there, so the sprocket needs to come off for cleaning under it.
The rubber thing to protect the swingarm from the chain is now clean & ready to fit at least. I didn't get much done as my back was killing so no way I was moving bikes about to get to the other side or anything.
You need a decent sized shed Hooli, work bench etc. I don't understand how you northern blokes work outside or in cramped spaces.
I recall pic's of Hooli rebuilding Stroppy inside the house & on the kitchen table. He's got plenty of room :onya: :clapping:
Quote from: grog on Monday, 09 February 2026, 06:20 PMYou need a decent sized shed Hooli, work bench etc. I don't understand how you northern blokes work outside or in cramped spaces.
You paying grog? land & anything associated with it is stupid money over here.
In the UK I never had more than a single garage, which like many of us was used to store stuff along with my bike. Working on the bike was done in that scenario, unless I could push it outside.
I'm fortunate to now live in a country where most people enjoy more space, and I have a bigger shed. After 20 yrs here, there are many things I don't take for granted.
So where you live Hooli, house with a shed would average price be? Just wondering.I have no idea.
Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 10 February 2026, 04:50 PMSo where you live Hooli, house with a shed would average price be? Just wondering.I have no idea.
I'm in a rough ex-mining village that's one of the cheaper places to live in the UK. Even here a 3 bed semi-detached is £100k or more & if you're lucky you get a prefab concrete garage like mine. Google says that's nearly $200 Oz dollars. Go down south & you could double or triple that for a similar house.
Some progress on the MK2 14. You can check back on the pics to see how far I got. It always takes longer to rebuild them as there's lots of little jobs to do on the way like fix the seized rear caliper and retap a damaged thread on a pulley peg hanger. Also new bushes on the gear lever so it's got less slop.
I can't find my spilt pins so couldn't fit the rear brake pedal etc and having added all the missing washers and spacers to the rear can hangers, the aftermarket bolts that came on the bike are too short.
IMG_20260221_150943.jpg
IMG_20260221_151005.jpg
I noticed while putting things back that it came with two sex toys rammed up the exhausts, they've obviously been removed as it was too quiet when I heard it run.
IMG_20260221_130507.jpg
IMG_20260221_130634.jpg
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Now I've got a list of bolts to go buy replacements for. Some I already knew about and others I didn't. All the lower engine mounts, that I knew about and now the exhaust hangers. I'll get those in town when I've got chance. I had to stop at this point as it's still cold & my back doesn't like it, so rather than be crippled tomorrow I took the sensible option.
I'll tell ya what though, the more I do on this bike, the more filthy I realise it is. I thought it was clean when I bought it, but it's not even as clean as I wash a bike. That'll get sorted once it's mobile & taken outside. No point currently when dragging filthy fingers over it & stuff.
I noticed while putting things back that it came with two sex toys rammed up the exhausts, they've obviously been removed as it was too quiet when I heard it run.
:onya: gotta let em breathe Hooli :devil:
Liking what you've achieved so far. :notworthy: :onya:
Realise it's still, a way off but can't wait to see the finished article. :popcorn:
I heard this morning the seat is done, so I'll need to collect that soon.
If I can remember to get some split pins this week I'll do a load more next weekend. Current plan for the next session is - finish rear brake & bleed it up after touching up the black paint on the caliper, strip & rebuild the clutch slave cylinder, replace the vacuum pipes before they're an issue then balance the throttles, replace the heavy duty clutch springs with proper ones & maybe do the advancer mod. That'll just leave the steering bearings to check & grease, fork oil to change & front brakes to check over. I'm tempted to get the fork legs down the polisher as I don't think they're quite as good as the swing arm looks, but I'll see once it gets outside.
In theory it's on the road for April.
The odd thing is though, the more I look at it & work on it. The less I like it as it's not 'my 14'. That might change once it's on the road, we'll see.
Quote from: Hooli on Monday, 23 February 2026, 06:49 PMI heard this morning the seat is done, so I'll need to collect that soon.
If I can remember to get some split pins this week I'll do a load more next weekend. Current plan for the next session is - finish rear brake & bleed it up after touching up the black paint on the caliper, strip & rebuild the clutch slave cylinder, replace the vacuum pipes before they're an issue then balance the throttles, replace the heavy duty clutch springs with proper ones & maybe do the advancer mod. That'll just leave the steering bearings to check & grease, fork oil to change & front brakes to check over. I'm tempted to get the fork legs down the polisher as I don't think they're quite as good as the swing arm looks, but I'll see once it gets outside.
In theory it's on the road for April.
Hmm, I forgot remove the god awful black spray paint over the headlight & clocks as well. Plus buy some bars, I know the ones I want but haven't ordered yet as a mate has them & wants a change. So if I buy their new ones I get theirs, won't cost me any more & I'd be swapping their bars anyway...
Quote from: Hooli on Monday, 23 February 2026, 07:21 PMThe odd thing is though, the more I look at it & work on it. The less I like it as it's not 'my 14'. That might change once it's on the road, we'll see.
You haven't had the chance to ride it yet, so you haven't actually, taken possession of it. That might change once you get to ride it. :onya:
On a different tack, even though you have a long way, to go, it's looking a lot, better than when you started on it. :notworthy: :salute: :hat:
You're not getting confused between Hoolis 2 gsx's are you Mr Gee? Hooli has definitely ridden Mk2. His original is still in a sad state awaiting repair. The upgrades etc here are for Mk2.
Quote from: Hooli on Saturday, 27 December 2025, 02:38 AMWell chaps the project to sort out my new purchase and get it how I want it started today. If nothing else it's made me rather glad I hadn't tried to ride the thing first. The plan for the day was to get the swingarm out and the other bits I wanted to send for polishing. That's achieved with a few changes to the list as I went, I've decided the pegs & hangers will go for proper polishing as there's lots of surface marks on them so they'd look tatty compared to the professionally polished bits.
I started by removing the rear brake ready to take the wheel out, first thing off was the chav tat torque arm. Which doesn't even fit properly! The proper one as an S bend about an inch across to line up & this thing is a flat bar so had to be forced into place. Then the rear bolt was too long on the shank so didn't clamp it up as they'd used the original bolt. The next bit of joy was the banjo bolt was barely finger tight & the brake caliper was almost empty of fluid, oh & both pistons had seized in the caliper.
For reference, here's the difference in the torque arms.
IMG_20251226_120317.jpg
The wheel came out ok, except the spindle was half stuck due to very old grease that'd gone solid. Shocks came off & again the pivots were very sticky due to no grease so the suspension won't have worked smoothly.
Before I could drop the swing arm out I had to remove the engine bars as their brackets covered the swing arm pivot. They were coming off anyway so no loss there. I did find the engine mounts were only finger tight, bolts too short (you need longer ones with engine bars) and one of the threads into the frame is damaged so I need to sort that before it goes back together. Oh & they'd lost a washer for the front engine mounts & just not bothered with one on that side. But they had managed to do those ones up.
The swing arm came out fine after that, although they'd cocked up the rubber fittings for the chainguard. Rather than put one each side of the metal, they'd put one behind the bracket & added an extra nut to retain it!. A bit of time was spent draining the rear brake system so it's not dribbling fluid over the bench & such. Then the footpeg carriers and pillion peg brackets came off, revealing that the E-clip retaining the peg pivots was missing on two out of four pegs. Oh & one of the threads for the bolts holding the pillion brackets on has been stripped & forced in at an angle to start it. So that needs a helicoil before it goes back on. As is also traditional now, they'd lost a bit & just left it out, the six bolts that retain the rider's footpeg brackets have rubber washers behind, but only five washers were fitted. Oh yeah & the split pin for the rear master cylinder had been reused even though it'd half snapped off, the rest snapped as I spun the pin to find the end of it.
The rider's RH footpeg as removed, with missing E-clip.
IMG_20251226_133251.jpg
That's everything I'm doing at the backend apart so I moved forwards & the first thing I noticed was the rubbers on the tank brackets are fitted wrong, they're stacked up on top of the tank rather than around what they should retain. I've left that for now, the tank is going to come off for several jobs on another day so I can do it then.
There's an random flasher unit looking thing added to the wiring too, no idea why. I'd suspect the non-standard indicators fitted flashed wrong so rather than buy a LED compatible relay that replaces the original they've bodged this in.
IMG_20251226_134353.jpg
I'll work that out at some point & do things properly. I've actually got a spare LED relay on the shelf anyway.
Then just so it looked like I'd done something useful I've removed two more bits of chav tat, the awful fake carbon fibre around the petrol cap & edges of the tank.
Before
IMG_20251226_140248.jpg
IMG_20251226_141656.jpg
After
IMG_20251226_141610.jpg
IMG_20251226_141807.jpg
The petrol cap doesn't look amazing as the stick on polished top leaves a lip of normal alloy showing & stands slightly proud of the tank. I might take the extra off & just clean & paint the original cap in black so it fits in. I'll think about it.
Finally the oil cooler guard came off, I'll see if it can be polished as the matt black finish looks crap. As is typical of what I'm finding on this bike, it had washers on one side of the bike but not the other & three rusty bolts & one stainless one. I'll sort that out when it goes back on too.
But anyway, all the bits that came off went on the lawn to keep them out the way, except the back wheel as I found a place for that. So here's the pile of junk before spreading around back under the bike.
IMG_20251226_140659.jpg
The bike has been left like this, but covered up again as the roof leaks when windy and stops me scratching it when walking past.
IMG_20251226_142808.jpg
Not a bad three hours really. I've got everything off I need to send for polishing and found a load of issues to sort as I go.
Not according to Hooli. :confused1:
It appears I stand corrected. I was sure he rode it when he brought it, but there ya go.
Nope, I saw it run in the blokes garage. Shoved it in a trailer & bought it home to take apart. I'm rather glad I didn't ride it with all the dangerous stuff I've found wrong with it so far.
Very minor update. I read the manual to check how to do the clutch springs, then got distracted & rode Snotbox to the pub after washing & waxing the tractor.
No point in rushing these things, :cheers:
Well I did a bit more on Mk2 today, the back brake is finished & bled up.
IMG_20260315_124301.jpg
Then it got worse, spot the missing bolt on the clutch cover I hadn't noticed before. How can people be so useless when they assemble things? That awful oil filter cap is going too, I've got a standard one sat in the box of parts to fit.
IMG_20260315_124255.jpg
Unfortunately when taking the cover off I found one of the bolts (not the missing one) had been snapped in the past & the end glued in with sealant. Leaving me with this.
IMG_20260315_130720.jpg
Despite trying heat & knocking it around with a punch I can't get it to move & being stainless it's an absolute sod to drill so I'm stuck for now. It started to rain too & as the garage is so overcrowded I was knelt in the open door & getting wet, I stopped.
I did replace the pointlessly fitted EBC heavy duty clutch springs though, the one at the top of this pic is the proper ones so you can see the difference.
IMG_20260315_140405.jpg
On the brightside, the bike is pretty clean inside.
IMG_20260315_125814.jpg
I'll have a think about that snapped bolt & then ask my neighbour with the custom bike shop if he can welt a nut over it or something.
Those EBC springs look impressively solid, how did the clutch feel to operate with them in it?
@Snapey may know of a method to get that broken bolt out. Wonder how tight they were doing it up to snap it? either that or the bolt is / was too long & bottomed out before clamping & they just kept turning it, they're aftermarket bolts, so could have been too long.
The clutch felt horribly heavy & very on/off from the feel of the lever, which makes sense as they're thicker & shorter. That's only from pulling it a few times in the garage, I never rode the thing but it instantly felt too heavy so I knew they were coming out.
Maybe of use to someone who wants a drag gsx.
What a total wa$%^r, the guy you bought it off must, have been. :jack:
How can you treat your bike, like that. I don't understand it. :thumbs_down:
Thank God, it's found better home now. :notworthy: :onya: :clapping:
Thanks for the update, its coming along nicely. That snapped bolt will come out, weld a nut to it like you said should do it.
I've got an EBC clutch pack with the heavier springs in mine, I like the feel, its nice and positive. The ones that were in mine (no idea if they were oem or not) made the clutch feel really vague. I've still got them.
If only I could weld Eric, hence needing to speak to my neighbour. I think it'll be a bit of a pain as it's about 1/4" inside the hole so will need doing carefully to not weld it to the crankcase. Doing stupid hours as work has offered very rare overtime too, so not getting the chance to go much currently.
Galvanic corrosion Hooli, stainless steel bolts of unknown quality fitted without copper coat/ zinc etc. LH drill might help.
Yeah, was going to add the lh drill to my post, but for some reason it posted and only got back to this now. Trick would be to weld the nut through the hole onto the stud. The case is alloy, which would require mig or tig (much higher temps), when a std carbon rod should weld onto the stainless bolt relatively easily for extraction purposes. I'm sure your welder neighbor will be able to sort it
Quote from: grog on Monday, 16 March 2026, 06:51 PMGalvanic corrosion Hooli, stainless steel bolts of unknown quality fitted without copper coat/ zinc etc. LH drill might help.
Aye they were in dry Grog, so that's what I thought. I really do need to get some LH drills, they're something I never get around to buying.
I'm tempted to get all the proper bolts for it now as it's got these horrible cap head things everywhere. But that's more work I don't feel like doing so it won't happen soon.
I find them nice & progressive when working right.
You're right the lift isn't a huge amount, I can't remember how much though but it surprised me how little when I checked. I'd suggest on yours to strip the slave cylinder down. They often get crud from chainlube & rubbish behind the metal screen which stops the piston in the slave cylinder moving freely. My 1st 14 had clutch slip when cold for a few months before I figured that one out.
Hello Hooli
I can explain how to safely remove the broken screw. As with anything that needs to be done properly, it takes a bit of preparation first.
Make a precisely fitting bushing out of stainless steel that can be press-fitted into the hole of the cover. Then drill a 3 mm hole through the bushing.
Ideally, use a 3 mm end mill with a flat tip. With a cordless drill, carefully machine the broken surface flat and drill about 7–8 mm deep. The bushing keeps you perfectly centered so you won't damage the threads.
After that, apply some penetrating oil, heat the area with a hot air gun, and then use a left-hand screw extractor to remove the bolt. 👍
I was drilling it. But no matter how slow I did it, it seems to case harden in no time & the drill stops. 30mins in & I'd got about 3mm deep so I gave up.
You want a cobalt drill bit to drill stainless, either M35 or M42, use low speed with cutting oil & she'll be a good 'un.
I may need to invest then, if the neighbour can't help as I've only got HSS.
Yeah, HSS is not going to cut it, literally! :happy1:
If you've got one broken bolt Andy, no doubt there may (will?) be others. I invested in a couple of cobalt drills some years back and they've paid for themselves a few times over with various bikes I've worked upon - my mates Triumph Triple 675 in itself almost wore them out when we decided to strip it down, nearly every bolt snapped off. Cobalt drill went through them (almost) like butter.
Agree, cobalt drills, quality easy outs& some heat. Tungsten drills are harder but shatter easily. IMO.
Well I sent my neighbour a pic & he said he'll get it out no bother, so I'll roll it over the road to his workshop this evening & get it back in a few days all sorted.
He needs to borrow my ODBII scanner so it's a fair swap.
Quote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 17 March 2026, 07:03 PMmy ODBII scanner
You a Star Wars fan then Hooli? Always looking out for ObiWan's brother?
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Tuesday, 17 March 2026, 09:17 PMQuote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 17 March 2026, 07:03 PMmy ODBII scanner
You a Star Wars fan then Hooli? Always looking out for ObiWan's brother?
:happy1:
God no, those are the most over hyped series of bland, dull films ever.
Exciting* update, it's now over the road awaiting more skilled attention.
It's now done, so I was told last night. I'll collect in a day or two as in the office today & don't like wheeling bikes around my garden at night when the scum are out looking.
I think I'm going to order a new set of engine cover bolts though, I don't trust these crappy ones fitted after this example of their quality.
New bolts ordered, the set coming includes the sump & oil pump but they won't be getting used. I liked the lie in the advert that the proper bolts rust, they don't or my real 14 would have fallen apart years ago rather than come apart like a new bike when needed as far as engine cases go. But the aftermarket stuff is much cheaper & arrives quicker so I can get this thing sorted for April.
Well I spotted Rick had the shop open today for a customer to visit so I popped over & grabbed Mk2 back. She's tucked back up in my garage again ready to get more done on her. The first turn of the thread in the hole looks a bit manky but those bolts go so deep it won't cause an issue at all. Plus that was probably me trying to knock the stud around with a small cold chisel initially anyway.
Plus that was probably me trying to knock the stud around with a small cold chisel initially anyway.
Hooli you savage !!
Quote from: Kiwifruit on Friday, 20 March 2026, 05:45 PMPlus that was probably me trying to knock the stud around with a small cold chisel initially anyway.
Hooli you savage !!
I couldn't find my hole punch to start with & that's worked for me before to just get things started.
Is this bolt issue from people over torquing them ? :rolleyes:
probably a bit of that & galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals that didn't have coppercote or similar applied during assembly.
Issue with applying a thread lube is that this can lead to overtorquing the bolt by 30% or more. The friction factor gets reduced, so for the same applied torque, the actual final load in the fastener will be 30% higher, in some cases enough to strip threads and/or break bolts.
Critical is to understand whether the required torque is for dry or lubricated threads.
Galvanic corrosion will seize threads, and also cause pitting in the fastener, which leads to stress raisers, so when you go to undo them, they break on these faults.
A tough one, those stainless bolts require lubing absolutely, tightening??Sometimes I think hand feel is better on small bolts.When doing auto transmissions etc,I always used 1/4 torque wrench.Not much help am I😂
Agree re hand feel on smaller bolts. My rule of thumb is that if lubed, apply 2/3 specced torque, unless you find info that specifies bolt torque AND thread condition
I only ever do them by hand on such things, nip them up & then just a tweak.
I think they are just crap quality bolts, they feel cheap & nasty when you handle them.
As it's actually been nice enough to do stuff outside today I've made some more progress.
Advancer mod done, the magnet on this was broken in half but went back ok. Hopefully it won't affect the running as it's held in place with two screws so can't move once clamped up.
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Then by evicting Snotbox into the garden I could move my proper 14 & get up the LH side of Mk2. The clutch slave cylinder appears to have never been off, it took ages to crack it free from corrosion on the mounting sleeves. Utterly disgusting inside too & the cylinder has seen better days. It's smooth now though so should work. If not I think I've got one somewhere as I bought one ages ago & don't remember using it. The front sprocket is genuine with the noise reducer too, more evidence this side has never been touched. It'll need chain & sprockets in a year or so looking at the front teeth, but that can wait till it's needed.
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I didn't bother bleeding the clutch up as I'll be disturbing the master cylinder when I get the bars I want for it. The covers aren't back on the other side either as waiting on those new bolts, I'll change the wanky-snappy ones in the stator cover at the same time too.
Off the top of my head the list left to do is a lot smaller now -
Fork oil
Check & grease steering bearings
Paint strip the clocks & headlight to get the chrome back
Sand the engine fins down to get the upper silver ones back
Maybe paint stripper the throttle bodies cause they've been painted black too
Vacuum hoses just because & then balance the throttles as I bet it's never been done & the idle sounded a little rough when I collected the heap
Rebuild the front brakes as I don't trust anything the PO had touched
Refit the chain guard & oil cooler cover. I was going to get different ones, but these can go on for now as I'm not fixing every bit that got painted black for no reason so they'll look ok
Fit different bars
That should cover it I think. The bars are the only thing that might hold it up as I've not ordered them yet. The plan is to buy a mate new bars & have hers as I like them, but she's not sure of the ones she wants as the person who's got them on her 14 hasn't checked yet. Oh yeah & I need to find my original grips, I know roughly which box they are in but can't get to it without moving the bike lift.
Re stator and broken magnet, mine had the same. I superglued the halves together and it worked fine. I did end up finding an aftermarket stator plate and fitting that, when I was chasing the stutter and misfire late last year (ended up being the crap injectors i found on ebay, original ones back in and all is well.)
I'm not convinced that with only the two screws holdingvthe broken magnet in that the Hall Effect sensor gets a clean pulse for crank position. Gluing the magnet def helps, but a new magnet would remove all doubt.
Here's the one I found that fits my K3 perfectly:
https://ebay.us/m/N4e27D
Cheers Eric, I didn't know you could get them aftermarket. I had the same thoughts about a clean pulse so will look for one of those more locally.
Well there's nothing locally, but they are 'only' £95 from Webike Japan rather than £370 here. So if it does have running issues I'll get one, I'll probably need to order the top bar clamps & stuff for my proper 14 as unlikely to find them second hand. Not that I've looked yet though.
Small updates...
My bolts arrived & I've found out the bars I need to order so they'll be here this week. I've even ordered bar end mirrors as the standard ones will look awful on it, I think I'll hate them as I always do when riding with them. But I can ignore them & turn my head.
Can I ask how does the magnet get broken ? 😳
Quote from: GSXKING on Tuesday, 24 March 2026, 09:22 AMCan I ask how does the magnet get broken ? 😳
Vibration and heat I think Chris.
I think the stator plate gets hot and warps just enough to stress the magnet, and as the magnet is so brittle, it can't flex with the plate so it breaks. Engine and bike vibrations wouldn't help either.
The sensor sits over the top of the magnet, inside its magnetic field (it's a permanent magnet), and gets 5V from the electrical system. The rotor fixed to the crank sweeps past the sensor leg with only 1-2mm clearance, at whatever rpm the crank is doing, this disturbs the magnetic field around the sensor and this changes the voltage that the sensor sees. This is how the ecu knows when the crank is at TDC and sets the spark and fuelling timing accordingly.
Magnet and sensor are held in pretty securely with two screws. The magnet is like a little bowtie, with holes in the outer 'bow' bits, and skinny in the middle where the sensor sits and rotor sweeps past.
Mine was broken exactly in the middle, when glued you couldn't even see the join.
I suspect that when its broken, the magnetic field is not as strong or whole, so the field disturbance is not as good, and the crank signal sent to the ecu gets fuzzy, this would lead to incorrect fuelling and ignition timing, resulting in rough running.
AI & Google agree completely with Eric on the magnet, :onya: AI answer to the broken magnet question:
Magnets.png
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Tuesday, 24 March 2026, 10:15 AMQuote from: GSXKING on Tuesday, 24 March 2026, 09:22 AMCan I ask how does the magnet get broken ? 😳
Vibration and heat I think Chris.
In a nutshell it's a disturbance in the force you seek.
That's a very comprehensive explanation Eric thank you 🙏
Quote from: KiwiCol on Tuesday, 24 March 2026, 11:07 AMAI & Google agree completely with Eric on the magnet, :onya: AI answer to the broken magnet question:
Magnets.png
Aren't I glad that my University degree in Mechanical Engineering is now at least compatible with some useless bit of ai software that just trawls the Internet looking for comparable keywords.
No disrespect Col, I don't take myself too seriously at the best of times, life's too short.
Great answer, never knew any of the magnet stuff, Col from the net👍Eric from the first hand. Good on both of yas👏👍
More frustratingly slow progress today due to the skills of the previous owner, but I'm getting there.... I'm off work for two weeks & expect this thing on the road before I go back so I tried to crack on today.
Clutch & ignitions covers fitted with new gaskets & new stainless bolts that aren't made of cheese. Stator cover bolts replaced as well, but two left loose as the sealing washers were missing & I don't have any to hand. I've ordered a pack & they'll be here in a day or two.
I wasn't happy with the clutch slave cylinder after putting it back the other day. I was sitting there later that evening & decided it wasn't right & I was looking again. Well I was right, I hadn't cleaned the bore properly. I have now & it feels right to push in & let the spring push it right back to the top of the bore again, it was sticking halfway when I took it off earlier.
At this point I popped into town on Snotbox with a handful of bolts I needed to get longer versions of. So it chose that point to rain as I rode back, good job it's not far.
Engine bars fitted, which was a nightmare as the threads on the frame where the triangular engine mounts fit were all damaged as the previous idiot hadn't used longer bolts with the comedy climbing frame (renthal?) bars he'd fitted so they were only in a few turns. It's sorted now though & new longer bolts used on the rear of the plates where the new bars fit to ensure they're into good threads.
I've put the oil it came with back in as it looked clean enough & I'll ride it for 1,500mile or so to get to 48k & then change it by mileage in future, well I put most of it back in as it was overfilled so I've got about 300ml of that oil left so it's correctly on the full mark. I also adjusted the chain & set the back wheel straight as I'd not done it when I put the back end back together the other week.
I've replaced the crappy bolts he'd used on the grabrail with the proper ones & discovered he'd stripped the threads on both sides for the smaller front bolts. Thankfully there's just enough room on the end of the bolt to add a nut to save needing to get that sorted out. I'll just have to remember to catch them when the tail comes off to clean the thing properly, I'm sure it's filthier in places than my old 14, just not as rotten.
The longer bolts I'd got for the exhaust clamps went on so the cans are now supported, the ones it came with were too short to put the nut on once I'd replaced the missing washers around the rubber bungs in the peg hangers. The last job was cutting down the bolts that held the ugly mirrors on & pop them back in to fill the holes in the lever clamps.
Finally I swapped things around in the garage. My old 14 is now on the ramp & pushed right into the corner, Mk2 is pointing out & stood on the floor again. So it's ready to strip the front end down & see what horrors I find there. I might carry on tomorrow, but think I'm busy for most of the day doing other stuff. I'll get there though.
Have a pic of how it looks now.
IMG_20260330_171636.jpg
Oh yeah & the new bars I ordered last Monday on 48hr delivery still aren't here! I might order elsewhere & have a shouting match with lying idiots on ebay.
Update on that, I have ordered elsewhere. Sick of lying idiots selling online, they're trying to tell me that Royal Mail 48hr delivery doesn't update the tracking until it's delivered. Odd that as it normally says 'at hub' etc etc, they must think I'm stupid.
Like the look of those cans now, they're fitted. :onya:
Certainly look the part. :notworthy:
Quote from: Mr Gee on Tuesday, 31 March 2026, 05:37 AMLike the look of those cans now, they're fitted. :onya:
Certainly look the part. :notworthy:
From experience of following a 14 with the the same make fitted. They'll sound the part too :cool: Later this week I should be able to run it & hear it for the first time baffle free.
Lookin good Hooli👏👍Shiny fin edges on menu ?
Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 31 March 2026, 04:03 PMLookin good Hooli👏👍Shiny fin edges on menu ?
Yup, along with removing the black paint on the clocks & headlight bowl. Might strip the yokes back to the correct colour too as the paint is falling off in places. I'll decide when I drop the front end off to check it over, grease steering bearings, rebuild the brakes so I can trust them etc.
Oh & very tempted to slap paint stripper over the TBs where they got badly painted black too, the only thing painted black I think I'll leave is the starter motor.
All good plans, why they sprayed black all over 🤷🏼🤷🏼 Frogwits I guess.
Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 31 March 2026, 06:13 PMAll good plans, why they sprayed black all over 🤷🏼🤷🏼 Frogwits I guess.
Even worse, it's brush painted! Looks awful from under 10ft away. I'm not going to try & clean it off the rear springs though, without stripping them down I couldn't get it all & it'd look worse.
Oh & even the risers are done badly, I'm still thinking about that as it's got a black top clamp so not sure stripping them is the answer.
Pull those black crap bits, paint stripper. Take you time but end result worth it. IMO. The old bite the bullet.
Well today's progress report says "don't listen to grog" :happy1:
I've got the front end apart & spent half the day with paint stripper to find out that the chrome on the clocks & headlight rim is ruined. It's been rough sanded for the paint to key too, probably the job he'd done the best despite the finish it ended up with. The headlight & rim off my other 14 is fine, so I stripped that too & it's come up better so I'll probably fit that as it's got a LED in already (& isn't a RHD headlight) I still need to do more stripping as various thick bits of paint remain, but I'd had enough as I woke up with a stinking snotty cold & sore throat today. Why does that always happen when you're off work?
Once I've got the clocks clean, I'll have to repaint them & hopefully do a better job than had been done before. Paint stripper damages the clear plastic over the clocks, not sure what I'm going to do there yet. I might try & polish it off carefully. I think I've seen somewhere you can get those out with heat & a lot of care? if so I might nick the ones out of my original 14 to fit as that needs all new clock cases anyway. I think I've still got the original cases off that somewhere with damaged chrome so the other option is to paint those...
Also found out it needs fork seals the LH one is leaking, lucky I've got a pair and oil in stock really. Steering bearings look to have been replaced so will just get regreased & adjusted properly, they were a bit too loose when I took it apart. Mind you the front axle & pinch bolts where loose too, the calipers bolts were barely nipped up & three sparkplugs came lose with two fingers on the extension rod so no wonder the idle was a little rough on the day I collected it. The comedy wiring for the indicators is a delight too, joined with scotchlocks but thankfully to the original leads so the loom isn't affected (the rears are the same but as the tail is coming off for cleaning I'll fix those then). There was some random power lead badly wired to a horn & broken years ago so that's come off & been tidied up.
Ages ago someone (Simon? made musical instruments & had a R/B) sent me a Pairs removal kit, so I've fitted that. Not being very trusting of the ali plates sealing to the cam cover I made up some blank plates to replace the reed valves & fitted those using the original seals underneath. The vacuum hoses are still supple & feel fine so have been left.
I think that's about it, so pictures...
Starting with before so you can see how good the painting was
IMG_20260331_113422.jpg
IMG_20260331_141806.jpg
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IMG_20260331_141835.jpg
IMG_20260331_123313.jpg
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Mid way through the day with bits spread everywhere
IMG_20260331_123323.jpg
IMG_20260331_123343.jpg
The blanking plates for the pairs
IMG_20260331_132436.jpg
IMG_20260331_132506.jpg
As I ran out of allowed attachments I shall carry on
Pairs kit fitted, note the usual half a job where only the easy to get too cam cover bolts got replaced with ugly shiny ones.
IMG_20260331_132659.jpg
The wiring to the horn soldered up heat shrink & wrapped back into the original loom casing
IMG_20260331_140740.jpg
Some bad pics of how far the paint is stripped, I'd forgot to take these till I put everything away & didn't have the energy to take it all outside again.
IMG_20260331_165451.jpg
IMG_20260331_165458.jpg
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Anyone think a chrome headlight & black clocks will work? as I could use the bowl off my old 14 too as the one on this is scratched from keying it for paint.
That's the way I'm thinking of going currently.
how about some new clock cases from Ali Express (for both) a quick look shows them avail for $40NZD which is about £12-£15 each.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010750245731.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis!NZD!74.76!40.04!!!!!%40!12000053388967383!ppc!!!&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=971-003-6642&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&&albagn=888888&&ds_e_adid=770288429175&ds_e_matchtype=search&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=g&ds_e_product_group_id=297546631617&ds_e_product_id=en1005010750245731&ds_e_product_merchant_id=5520179106&ds_e_product_country=ZZ&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=22921330774&albag=181072663861&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22921330774&gbraid=0AAAAA_AVUydol8GpH6S0k30bE_g8UP-IC&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4a3OBhCHARIsAChaqJPkHkmMnT6K1zxewounaptPXjKBpcwaIapUE5rPXrrW4v2CMxh1O6kaAsgTEALw_wcB
I see Just Bandits have Clock Kits for £56, but the pic doesn't say or show what the clock kit includes.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Wednesday, 01 April 2026, 05:50 AMhow about some new clock cases from Ali Express (for both) a quick look shows them avail for $40NZD which is about £12-£15 each.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010750245731.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis!NZD!74.76!40.04!!!!!%40!12000053388967383!ppc!!!&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=971-003-6642&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&&albagn=888888&&ds_e_adid=770288429175&ds_e_matchtype=search&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=g&ds_e_product_group_id=297546631617&ds_e_product_id=en1005010750245731&ds_e_product_merchant_id=5520179106&ds_e_product_country=ZZ&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=22921330774&albag=181072663861&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22921330774&gbraid=0AAAAA_AVUydol8GpH6S0k30bE_g8UP-IC&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4a3OBhCHARIsAChaqJPkHkmMnT6K1zxewounaptPXjKBpcwaIapUE5rPXrrW4v2CMxh1O6kaAsgTEALw_wcB
Blimey, I'd never thought to look on there!
Thanks, I shall investigate..
Two sets of those ordered, thanks Col!
Quote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 31 March 2026, 06:00 AMQuote from: Mr Gee on Tuesday, 31 March 2026, 05:37 AMLike the look of those cans now, they're fitted. :onya:
Certainly look the part. :notworthy:
From experience of following a 14 with the the same make fitted. They'll sound the part too :cool: Later this week I should be able to run it & hear it for the first time baffle free.
If they sound as good, as they look, two pairs of undies and some tissues, might be advisable. :smitten: :drool: :onya:
Those speedo covers a great find for you Hooli. Looking at your piccys, that bloke was a total nutter with the black paint.Ridiculous and brushed on WTF
Quote from: KiwiCol on Wednesday, 01 April 2026, 05:50 AMhow about some new clock cases from Ali Express (for both) a quick look shows them avail for $40NZD which is about £12-£15 each.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010750245731.html?src=google&pdp_npi=4%40dis!NZD!74.76!40.04!!!!!%40!12000053388967383!ppc!!!&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=971-003-6642&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&gclsrc=aw.ds&&albagn=888888&&ds_e_adid=770288429175&ds_e_matchtype=search&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=g&ds_e_product_group_id=297546631617&ds_e_product_id=en1005010750245731&ds_e_product_merchant_id=5520179106&ds_e_product_country=ZZ&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=22921330774&albag=181072663861&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22921330774&gbraid=0AAAAA_AVUydol8GpH6S0k30bE_g8UP-IC&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4a3OBhCHARIsAChaqJPkHkmMnT6K1zxewounaptPXjKBpcwaIapUE5rPXrrW4v2CMxh1O6kaAsgTEALw_wcB
That's a good find. I was watching a set on E-Bay, but they seem to have vanished.
Just for completeness, when I was looking around aliexpress yesterday. They also do the later K5 onwards clock cases.
Quote from: Hooli on Wednesday, 01 April 2026, 05:29 PMJust for completeness, when I was looking around aliexpress yesterday. They also do the later K5 onwards clock cases.
Have you got a link to them Hooli?
Here ya go Mick,
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010519955438.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.68e5a9Ija9IjqO&algo_pvid=17c81027-909a-4e8e-b7b0-2cda151462c1&algo_exp_id=17c81027-909a-4e8e-b7b0-2cda151462c1-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%222%22%2C%22spu_best_type%22%3A%22price%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21NZD%2180.28%2142.95%21%21%2145.19%2124.18%21%402101d9ef17750339427854901ec2c7%2112000052678203697%21sea%21NZ%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3Aa2d71513%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895%3BpisId%3A5000000197843457&curPageLogUid=8gnYP6xDCBiw&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005010519955438%7C_p_origin_prod%3A
Thanks Col.
Update for today's episode of WTaF and bellends with tools...
I stripped the forks down, just in case and very glad I did as I think these are the worst bit of the bike so far!
To start with in one fork the damper rod wasn't even screwed into the fork cap, for those that don't know that means zero damping on that leg. Then I found this when I popped the dust covers off the seals, both legs were the same.
IMG_20260402_125052.jpg
The chrome looks shot on one leg too, I'm going to put a straight edge over it and measure it too. But I suspect I'll be buying stanchions or getting these rechromed before I rebuild the forks.
It's a shame I didn't get stuck into this thing earlier, but I just never found the energy when it was so cold in the garage.
Móar info...
The compression adjuster was seized on one leg as well. Having drilled out the blanking plug to remove the detent spring and ball, which also allows for the removal of the adjuster I found the reason. Somehow the thread on the adjuster inside the leg had been ruined so it could only screw halfway in. Tapping a nut to the right size, cutting a slot in it and using it as a thread chaser fixed that.
I've made a replacement blanking plug, out of an old "clunk" as we called the weighted fuel pickups in the tanks of glow engined RC planes. Being almost the right OD (5mm) and hollow it was easy enough to drill out to 3.5mm, for 6mm to retain the spring and ball inside. I was going to fit it with a drop of araldite to retain it and seal the end but it turns out my araldite has gone off so that's a job for tomorrow.
I also got the last of the paint off all the bits I needed cleaned up, including the stanchions.
Here's the new plug I made and what's left of the old one.
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The pile of bits on the floor awaiting tomorrow's efforts.
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Finally the good news is as accurately as I could measure the chrome on the stanchions is ok, just discoloured. So they should be fine when the forks are built properly.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot. The dowty style washers arrived so the last two bolts are now in the stator cover & not weeping.
Some owners! Just unbelievable :facepalm: If they were going to the trouble of 'fixing' it why not fix it properly & not bodge it? Just does my head in looking at that.
Anyway, what are you going to do about the headlight bowl & surround? I know, paint it black with a 4" brush
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 03 April 2026, 05:03 AMAnyway, what are you going to do about the headlight bowl & surround? I know, paint it black with a 4" brush
The surround I can ignore as this bike came with a RHD headlight so it dips the wrong way. I plan on using the headlight off my old 14 instead and the surround on that is fine. I'd use the bowl too but there's a bolt through it because the top clip that retains the light was broken when I got it 2nd hand.
I might have a search on ebay & try ringing a local breaker as I've got a week or before the clock plastics arrive now.
Having had a look around & being reminded these exist by a post on the thread we've got about fixing these adjusters I've just ordered these.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/206160968017
When they arrive I'll tap the hole to M6 & wind one in with a drop of threadlock. Seems much easier than trying to balance the spring & ball in the thing I made & then hold it in place to glue it etc. Makes it removable if I ever need to do it again too. I'll probably do both legs so they match, seems to make sense.
Means it's waiting yet another bit in the post, but I'd rather do it right than cause issues years down the line. Plus I need to fix these on my other 14 too, so I'll know how to do it.
As I can't edit that to add a pic..
Spring Plunger.jpg
All of that sounds like it's above my pay grade. :whatever: :confused1:
Thank God, my mate knows what he's doing. :worshippy:
Awesome job Hooli. I'm sure you'll get MkII up and going again.
Cheers also for the link to those detent grub screws, one of these days I need to have a look at mine on the K3, they're not seized but I don't think im getting full adjustment either.
Re headlight bowl, would be worth checking on AliExpress.
Found this one Hooli.
That's a great price for a headlight surround. Good find Grog.
Headlights same, SV650,1000, GSF650,1200 & 1250.
Those plastic grub screws, where do they fit?? Old brain I guess, just can't work it out🤷🏼
Quote from: grog on Friday, 03 April 2026, 03:58 PMThose plastic grub screws, where do they fit?? Old brain I guess, just can't work it out🤷🏼
as far as I can tell on the inside of the fork leg, near the bottom. They hold the rebound adjuster (the bit that faces backwards with the slotted adjuster) in place.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Friday, 03 April 2026, 05:41 PMQuote from: grog on Friday, 03 April 2026, 03:58 PMThose plastic grub screws, where do they fit?? Old brain I guess, just can't work it out🤷🏼
as far as I can tell on the inside of the fork leg, near the bottom. They hold the rebound adjuster (the bit that faces backwards with the slotted adjuster) in place.
Close, I believe it's the compression adjuster though.
They replace the cup, ball & spring in this pic Grog. It's different on later bikes so not sure if you'd have seen these or not.
The standard bits are 5mm, so the ideal size to tap for M6.
Example Compression Adjuster.jpeg
Cheers Hooli, can never remember which is which off the top of my head until I look in the book, but that is exactly the spot I meant.
Thanks Hooli explaining👍I don't mess with forks so no idea about later model, K7 mine.
Quote from: grog on Saturday, 04 April 2026, 05:35 PMThanks Hooli explaining👍I don't mess with forks so no idea about later model, K7 mine.
Yours are in the same place but a better design so don't seize like these early ones.
I reckon those M6 threaded grub screws with the detent ball would be a worthy upgrade to make the adjuster removable. Got me thinking...
Also wonder if adjusters (they're basically a valve) from later models or other bikes would improve compression damping?
I've no idea what the later ones look like inside to know if they'd fit? you'd have to investigate that. I can't say I can feel the difference between the styles of fork when ridden & on the same settings, so it's not something I'd bother to look at.
Email update this morning - my clock cases are apparently in the UK already! So they should arrive next week, the spring plunger things are due in a couple of days too. So in theory if the weather is good enough I might get a test flight before I go back to work in another week.
Yeah about that...
Two parcels turned up this morning but the bloody aliexpress morons have only sent two rear cases for the clocks, not two complete sets! which is really useful, especially as there was no option to only buy separate bits when I ordered them. Obviously now there is & it's a lot more expensive for a complete set.
I think I can make up a useable set using some of the old parts, but it'll look tatty which is very annoying as that's why I'd ordered new bits. I've contacted them about parts missing & ordered a complete set at the new higher price - I suspect they'd got the listing wrong before but won't admit it. Assuming the right things turn up next time, I'll return the original order & get a refund for those.
In better news, the other little parcel was the spring plungers & they work exactly as planned. I've thread locked them in & adjusted how stiff the detent was when I fitted them so it feels just nice before the threadlock dried.
I cleaned the fork legs before reassembling the forks as the sides facing the wheel were a bit manky.
Before
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After
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The spring plungers don't look out of place & being on the wheel side won't be that noticeable anyway.
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The forks got rebuilt with fresh oil, seals & dust seals. Then I went to put the front end back together to find I'd missed some damage on a bearing cage for the steering bearings. So I went out & got a bearing set, came home & fitted most of the front end up.
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The headlight is only loosely in place as I don't think I can fit the clocks with it there. I just wanted it off the floor to make room for the tank tonight. I removed the scotchlocks from the indicator wiring & soldered them properly. Make sense of this, going from the plug for the loom it went - original wire, new wire soldered on, newer wire scotchlocked to that!
Still to do, something with the clocks, rebuild the front brakes & fit them as I don't trust anything on this I've not done myself, change the awful blue anodised reservoir caps for proper ones, balance the throttles etc, get the shiny fins back, probably paint strip the TBs that have been turned black for the usual stupid reason, plus of course fit some decent bars as the originals aren't going back on.
Seems it's keeping the waveys now, the mate I was swapping with doesn't want a non-matching set & has been told about a set of three you can buy somewhere that do match. I don't know the details of that yet, I'm sure I'll find out when I fit them though.
It will practically, a brand new bike, by the time you have finished her. :grin: :onya: :clapping:
those new detent grub screws look factory, forks came up nice. Agree its hard to trust anything on that bike once you start finding stuff. good onya mate.
Quote from: Mr Gee on Wednesday, 08 April 2026, 07:22 AMIt will practically, a brand new bike, by the time you have finished her. :grin: :onya: :clapping:
Well last time I went through a 14 & sorted everything I could find it ended up like that.
I'd got it off her as she'd been saying it was too big & heavy for her & she might sell. I'd told her it was the bike after watching her trying to get it round a bumpy bend. I had it for a week & when she got it back I was faster down my favourite road on than mine, without feeling like I was trying. Plus the text I got back when she'd taken it out for a run just said "wow wow wow wow wow wow wow wow wow" etc, that was 5 years ago & she's still loving it.
This one should come out as well.
Quote from: Hooli on Wednesday, 08 April 2026, 07:38 PMQuote from: Mr Gee on Wednesday, 08 April 2026, 07:22 AMIt will practically, a brand new bike, by the time you have finished her. :grin: :onya: :clapping:
Well last time I went through a 14 & sorted everything I could find it ended up like that.
I'd got it off her as she'd been saying it was too big & heavy for her & she might sell. I'd told her it was the bike after watching her trying to get it round a bumpy bend. I had it for a week & when she got it back I was faster down my favourite road on than mine, without feeling like I was trying. Plus the text I got back when she'd taken it out for a run just said "wow wow wow wow wow wow wow wow wow" etc, that was 5 years ago & she's still loving it.
This one should come out as well.
Reflecting the extent of new parts, perhaps it should be named The Broom!
I rebuilt the front brakes first thing is morning, 11 out of 12 pistons were seized. That makes one brake piston on the entire bike that wasn't seized up.
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I then fitted the clocks with the new bits I had & the old faces from the first set on my original 14, meaning they are tatty to look at for now.
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The next job was to temp fit the original bars so I could mount the master cylinders to bleed the clutch & brakes. I also changed the awful chav lids for proper ones & found out the previous idiot had missed out the inner lids so had tried to seal them with silicon! no wonder both were almost empty.
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Just for a change, I found something else wrong. The brass insert in the clutch lever is missing, it works as it is but I'll get one ordered so it's correct & smoother.
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At this point my mate rang & said she's got a spare set of renthals if I want them until we change her bars so I can have the ones I want, so I went & got them. Getting home again I bled the clutch & front brakes up once the bars were fitted & swapped the grips for OE ones not the awful aftermarket crap it had. In keeping with the quality of the work it'd had done the throttle grip had loads of insulation tape inside to hold it in place. So I cleaned all that off & stuck the OE grip on properly.
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The chavvy barend mirrors I got for it were also fitted, I don't like them but the proper mirrors wouldn't suit it so I'll see how I go with them.
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I'll get it finished enough to ride tomorrow with a damn good clean & balancing the throttle bodies. Oh & the battery that came with it won't take a charge so is probably dead. Lucky for me Snotbox came with a good battery the same size (too small for Snotbox) which I can use instead.
I'm sure there's something else I need to do too, but I can't remember it right now.
I almost forgot, the last thing to do before it goes out is remove the centre stand. I can't ride with the early ones as they get in the way of my left foot when I've got the balls of my feet on the pegs as I normally do.
Top job Hooli, I'd love to take that for a spin with all you've done to it. If you don't end up keeping it, someone is going to get an absolute cracker of a bike. :onya: :clapping:
Well if ya ever over here Col...
Thanks, but it'll never happen, I've no interest in flying long haul, unless it's business or first class, but I don't have the spare for that sort of expense. :cheers:
The silicone on the resevoirs got me, the PO must be a right out tool and not be allowed near any mechanical devices again. Ever.
Glad you are saving this 1402 Hooli.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Thursday, 09 April 2026, 11:04 AMThanks, but it'll never happen, I've no interest in flying long haul, unless it's business or first class, but I don't have the spare for that sort of expense. :cheers:
Same reason I'll probably never leave Europe.
Re brake calipers, were they also painted black by the PO or is that how they are? I thought all Tokico calipers on all series of the 1402 were always gold in colour?
Which then begs the question,if they're black, do they stop slower than the gold ones?
They were painted black and it's not a brilliant job. I do prefer them black on this bike so they're staying like it.
As to how they stop, no idea yet. Maybe they work better and that's why black ones are slower?
Front end looks real good, all seems to just blend together.Fork brace looks like something I should get,I know it's just bling but it's nice bling in my eyes. Top job on whole bike, fin polish will add much more to looks. Think you're gonna like this bike. Lets hope it all runs nice🤞
Obviously, the black ones are slower. :stir: :whistling:
That's why she only, needed one piston out of the twelve working. :mwink:
:rofl2: :happy1: :lol:
Ahh but I was told it had B/W DNA but it's in disguise...
Mind blowing to me that there are people out there as mechanically inept as the previous owner. I regularly fix bikes one of my very good mates has had a crack at (but thankfully stopped) and have bought many projects myself over the years, but I've never seen anything like this. Well done on getting it sorted.
Quote from: lurch on Thursday, 09 April 2026, 06:29 PMMind blowing to me that there are people out there as mechanically inept as the previous owner. I regularly fix bikes one of my very good mates has had a crack at (but thankfully stopped) and have bought many projects myself over the years, but I've never seen anything like this. Well done on getting it sorted.
I've got to say I'm impressed with it, it takes dedication to do so many things utterly wrong. Most people manage to learn as they go after all.
Oh I ordered that brass bit for the clutch lever from webike, while I was on there I've ordered the missing caps for the risers for my proper 14 & a new set of riser bolts & thick washers etc as the tops were missing & I stole the bolts for this bike as it had the wrong ones. I know I could get bolts etc locally but at 87p or something daft it's just easier this way as I was paying postage on a silly little bit anyway.
Yeah I agree, just don't understand po. he's spent a heap on paint, seat, exhaust, polishing. Just fucked up the rest. Just a great buy to do your stuff Hooli.
Today's progress with the ending she's almost done.
80 grit wet & dry followed by fine wire wool & autosol have restored the shiny fins back to about right. They need a bit more work, but I'll just redo them each time she gets a proper clean. It looks so much better than the all black mess it was before.
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While I had the wire wool out I did the down pipes too, they need more work but it's a good start.
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Then I cleaned up the frame & engine around the front sprocket with a paint brush & paraffin. Cleaned the chain too as it was manky, then rinsed both off. I followed that by removing the centre stand & discovering you need to remove the collector box to get the bolt out. Surprisingly the exhaust came apart without issue, I think it might be a full Delkevic system looking at the clamps & stuff so won't have been on there since new.
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Unfortunately being a plonker I scratched the torque arm with the centre stand but it's quite well hidden by the exhaust so could be worse.
I followed that by putting Snotbox's old battery in, it's 14 sized so too small for Snotbox & holds a charge unlike the battery that came with this bike. Fired her up & balanced the throttles, unsurprisingly they were miles out.
Then I put her completely together for the first time & washed her. I'd just finishing drying her when it started to spit with rain that wasn't forecast, which was helpful. But it stopped after a few mins so I decided to set the rear suspension to MCN settings as I'd done the front when I rebuilt it. Obviously being this bike that meant I found issues, the preload is seized at min on both shocks & one side the adjuster knob at the top is also jammed. I tried freeing them up but it wasn't happening so fitted the shocks off my original 14 as they work. This makes her a bit manky as there's overspray from when the scum sprayed my real 14 but it got her finished.
It'd rained again during that but as she was on a jack with no shocks I couldn't move her. Once it was done I put her away & dried her again.
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The rain was so light the floor never got wet so come 6pm I taxed her & took her to the pub for bike night & her first ride.
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She got lots of compliments, which was nice as I'm still not quite sure I like her look. It's what I planned, but it's not quite me...
She appears to have an attitude problem too, must be that timing mod I did that makes them more responsive. She lifted the front over a couple of crests where my old 14 never did, nor two other 14s I've ridden up that road faster than today. Didn't expect it winding on a bit mid bend lol, makes her fun once I remember how to ride a 14 as it's been over a year since I had one on the road.
Tomorrow I'll rebleed the front brakes as they aren't quite right, they work but I'm not quite happy with them. The fast idle needs a tweak as it's way too high & stays on too long. The bars aren't straight on the top yoke & I didn't notice till I rode her, I think I've got a riser on backwards so it's a good excuse to roll the bars forward a fraction too. Oh & lower the back brake pedal a touch.
That's about it really. I'll look into fixing the shocks so I can refit them with the black springs & have the others back for my original 14, but that's not very urgent. I'm keeping an eye out for a headlight/bowl to solve that tatty bit too, but there's nothing major & it was damn good to be back on a 14 again. By the time I got home I'd started to remember how to ride one, they feel really small after riding Snotbox all winter.
Awesome Hooli
Great going Hooli. Just a thought about her 'attitude problem' I just wondered if she has a 17 tooth front sprocket? That would make her a bit more lively & could explain the front coming up. :cheers:
Geez you've put some effort into all this bike has to offer.
I'll be the first to admit I couldn't do most of the fixes you've done.
I'm really happy you're back on a 14 mate.
I can't believe the difference the colour of the bike looks in the shed then out at the pub 👍👍🏆🏆🏆
I agree, looks unreal parked up at pub. Sound good Hooli? More grunt, maybe has ST1 installed? Mine has advancer fitted but doesn't stand up as easy as Mk2 seems to. Great work in a very short time :hat:
Does it feel more, like it's yours now that you have ridden it?
Looks awesome. :smitten:
If you don't and decide to sell it, then some one, is in for a treat. :onya: :clapping:
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 10 April 2026, 10:08 AMGreat going Hooli. Just a thought about her 'attitude problem' I just wondered if she has a 17 tooth front sprocket? That would make her a bit more lively & could explain the front coming up. :cheers:
I'm pretty sure it's on the OE chain and sprockets still.
It could be partly the different bars, these current ones are slightly more swept back so my weight isn't over the front as much.
When I say lift, it was only just enough for the steering to go light, I just didn't expect it.
Well I hope you're pleased with yourself Hooli..... that looks pretty sharp.
I too am impressed with the work you do, even more so because of your working space. You've sure got a bit of stock in the garage. Makes me realize how spoilt I am having a big shed... full of toot.
Pleased the donkey put a grin on your face. Enjoy :cheers:
Aye I right enjoyed riding it last night, it's a damn good'un now.
I needed a proper bike again to make enjoy riding. The HD is only good when in the mood for it and Snotbox is just a heap, it's very chuckable but slow, ugly and too warm for summer with all the plastics.
Quote from: Hooli on Friday, 10 April 2026, 07:57 AMToday's progress with the ending she's almost done.
The rain was so light the floor never got wet so come 6pm I taxed her & took her to the pub for bike night & her first ride.
IMG_20260409_185457.jpg
She got lots of compliments, which was nice as I'm still not quite sure I like her look. It's what I planned, but it's not quite me...
She appears to have an attitude problem too, must be that timing mod I did that makes them more responsive. She lifted the front over a couple of crests where my old 14 never did, nor two other 14s I've ridden up that road faster than today. Didn't expect it winding on a bit mid bend lol, makes her fun once I remember how to ride a 14 as it's been over a year since I had one on the road.
Tomorrow I'll rebleed the front brakes as they aren't quite right, they work but I'm not quite happy with them. The fast idle needs a tweak as it's way too high & stays on too long. The bars aren't straight on the top yoke & I didn't notice till I rode her, I think I've got a riser on backwards so it's a good excuse to roll the bars forward a fraction too. Oh & lower the back brake pedal a touch.
That's about it really. I'll look into fixing the shocks so I can refit them with the black springs & have the others back for my original 14, but that's not very urgent. I'm keeping an eye out for a headlight/bowl to solve that tatty bit too, but there's nothing major & it was damn good to be back on a 14 again. By the time I got home I'd started to remember how to ride one, they feel really small after riding Snotbox all winter.
Looks like it's leaking Guinness Andy
Quote from: Boa on Saturday, 11 April 2026, 05:06 AMLooks like it's leaking Guinness Andy
Now that would be a clever mod! :cheers:
I did those tweaks this morning, my guess for how much to turn the fast idle down was pretty much bang on (turned the screw in 1/4 turn). She now fast idles at about 1,400rpm not 2k & it drops down to normal in almost the right time, I suspect another 1/8 of a turn would make it perfect but as it's a tank off job I'll do it as & when.
I got one bubble out of the RH caliper when I rebled the front brakes & now the lever feels right every time. It took a bit more riding but the brakes are spot on now, I'm not 100% I got the pads back in the same place so it might have partly been them bedding in again or just how little use the bike has had that meant they needed to scrape themselves clean. But they are damn good now, stops from 'ahem' silly speeds with one finger has the front well down on the forks & a decent reduction in speed.
Bars tweaked forwards a fraction & levers, gears & rear brake adjusted a bit more. They're all right now which makes it much easier to ride. The only tweak to do now is I've noticed I can move the mirrors outwards to give me more space for my hands, but I hadn't taken that size allen key with me when I went out.
I put about a 100 miles on her today, down some fun fast twisty roads I know. I think I'm remembering how to ride a 14 again, she's a lot of fun & I do like her. Still not utterly convinced on her looks but from the amount of people stopping to have a good look around her when parked I must be the only one not sure about them. Her responsiveness with the timing mod & the angry snarl from those cans is making me ride like a silly child, it's a very addictive noise as I enjoy the torque of a 14 again. She must be riding well as a couple of times I thought "she could take more power" to find out the throttle was wide open when I tried to wind more on :whistling: still I only doubled our single lane speed limit a few times (limit is 60mph) as I was behaving* that might explain why I had to put fuel in her today :lol:
All in all, I'm damn glad I put the effort into her & she's a damn good 14 now.
Have my pics of how the day went. When at Squires in the second pic she got lots of attention & I sat a good distance away chuckling as normally the reaction my bikes get is "eww filthy!"
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Pity, we don't have sound and vision, so, we could all, enjoy those cans.
Still, as I have already, said. It looks amazing. Something to be proud of. Especially, considering the stating point and how short a time, it's actually, taken. :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Well done mate, like you, I wasn't sold on the colour to start with,but now seeing the whole package it seems to work well. The lines are clean (it's a 1402!), but the seat seems to make the biggest difference to me.
I look at the lines from the top middle of the seat and it just flows down through the frame and matches the same angle that the forks make with the frame. It ties the whole bike together.
The paint colour is so much better in the sun, and with all the naff blingy bits removed, its more understated, which in my view, actually makes it better.
Sounds like your "GSXBarmy" genes have been awakened! Who knows, it might even stay clean now . . . :onya:
Quote from: KiwiCol on Saturday, 11 April 2026, 12:32 PMSounds like your "GSXBarmy" genes have been awakened! Who knows, it might even stay clean now . . . :onya:
Funny I dropped into a mate's on the way home and they asked how long it'll stay clean too.
We'll see, it'd be a damn shame to ruin it.
I'm definitely ill....
I've washed Mk2 again today as I hit a few puddles and lots of dust yesterday. Also spent ages with TFR getting almost all the old brown/black encrusted crap out of the corners of the wheels. Then I waxed her, except the wheels as tbh I'd got bored by then.
I need to buy some none abrasive metal polish, the polisher suggested Brasso, so I can keep those bits decent.
A new stealth coating of polish, now there's an idea . . . :onya: :clapping:
Quote from: Hooli on Saturday, 11 April 2026, 11:57 PMI need to buy some none abrasive metal polish, the polisher suggested Brasso, so I can keep those bits decent.
She looks a beauty Andy, you've done an absolute top job, really you have. Given the effort you've put in, I'lll bet you'll keep her sparkly, after all you'll have your original 14 as the all weather one.
Regards metal polish, look at a Belgom Alu. Works extremely well on both alloy and down pipes, I got the tip from a metal polisher, brilliant stuff. Available on eBay.
Thanks Dave, I'll have a look for that.
Edit, I've had a look and gone all Yorkshire man. How much?!!??!
I got some Brasso yesterday so will use that for now.
Hooli, my cleaning trick,becomes habit, saves washing it unless filthy. Microfibres cloths, just wash out when dirty. Get a bottle of detailing spray, Bowdens is Aussie but Meguairs do similar. I just spend 2 mins spray- wipe over before most rides. Leaves a coating they say,I spray anywhere on bike. lasts ages, bike always looks nice. Just my way.
Quote from: Hooli on Sunday, 12 April 2026, 04:35 PMThanks Dave, I'll have a look for that.
Edit, I've had a look and gone all Yorkshire man. How much?!!??!
I got some Brasso yesterday so will use that for now.
Ye gods that's gone up in price on eBay since I last bought some - used to be about £10 a bottle!
If you still fancy some though Andy try here - more reasonable price https://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/belgom-alu-250ml-407000 or here https://www.nonpaints.com/en/belgom-alu-polish-for-aluminum-250ml?currency=gbp&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&kb=bn_pms_604968456&msclkid=f35bd7cde10e10327b01be16929a24b6&utm_term=2335431417783915
Fantastic job on this bike Hooli
I really enjoyed following your progress with it and hitting the like button along the way.
The colour is unusual but seems to pop once outside in natural light.
Well wear sir
Hope you've many happy miles on her
Another little day out on this today, I didn't go too far but it's my last day off before I'm back at work so rude not too. I'd wondered the other day if it was a bit thirsty after how quick the gauge dropped, I was thinking the same today but having brimmed it twice now & checked I'm getting just over 47mpg enjoying myself I've worked it out. It's a pessimistic gauge, it starts flashing reserve occasionally with almost 10ltrs left. I'm sure my last one got several litres lower before it did that. Anyway, when reserve was flicking up occasionally I only got 14.56ltrs in so I know what it's telling me now, I can trust the reserve.
I've also found out it handles a lot better than my old one, which is odd as it's setup the same & so forth. My old one always pushed wide & needed holding down into fast bends to force it to go around them. Then you'd crack the throttle wider & it'd run wider. This one tightens it's turn a lot as you get on the power, which is so much more confidence inspiring and quicker without trying. I think I've decided I like it.
Anyway have the only pic I took, at Squires again.
IMG_20260413_124936.jpg
Great, glad you've warmed to it Hooli.
From memory, I think the wee fuel sign will (should) come on when there's 6L left and the last bar will (should) start flashing when there's 1.75L left, conservative riding with the last bar flashing will get you up to 30k further down the road. Best ya find a gas station sooner rather than later.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Tuesday, 14 April 2026, 05:39 AMGreat, glad you've warmed to it Hooli.
From memory, I think the wee fuel sign will (should) come on when there's 6L left and the last bar will (should) start flashing when there's 1.75L left, conservative riding with the last bar flashing will get you up to 30k further down the road. Best ya find a gas station sooner rather than later.
Aye that's about what I think Col, it's coming up with about 10ltrs left. Well you know when it'll flick down to one bar & back to two, that's what I mean. I know where it's doing it now so it's not an issue now. I suspect when I look in the tank one day the sensor arm will be bent as I know he changed the teabag & after everything else he managed to get wrong...
Quote from: KiwiCol on Tuesday, 14 April 2026, 05:39 AMGreat, glad you've warmed to it Hooli.
From memory, I think the wee fuel sign will (should) come on when there's 6L left and the last bar will (should) start flashing when there's 1.75L left, conservative riding with the last bar flashing will get you up to 30k further down the road. Best ya find a gas station sooner rather than later.
is there a difference in the later models then? On mine, the last bar flashes first with about 6l, then the fuel sign starts flashing when there's less than 2l left. I've nearly run it dry late one night on the freeway and was really glad to see a petrol station, thats how I remember what it does.
@Hooli are there different tyres on Mk2 ?
Will you bother restoring MK1 now then ?
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Tuesday, 14 April 2026, 08:21 AMQuote from: KiwiCol on Tuesday, 14 April 2026, 05:39 AMGreat, glad you've warmed to it Hooli.
From memory, I think the wee fuel sign will (should) come on when there's 6L left and the last bar will (should) start flashing when there's 1.75L left, conservative riding with the last bar flashing will get you up to 30k further down the road. Best ya find a gas station sooner rather than later.
is there a difference in the later models then? On mine, the last bar flashes first with about 6l, then the fuel sign starts flashing when there's less than 2l left. I've nearly run it dry late one night on the freeway and was really glad to see a petrol station, thats how I remember what it does.
I dunno about earlier versions & the downloaded handbook is slightly different to what my physical handbook for a K6 said, but it's just the quantities that are different for the FE UK edition, they're saying 6L & 3.4L, my old book said 6L & 1.7L, but the light flashing sequence is the same. Once both are flashing, you're real close to pushing it to the next station.
Screenshot 2026-04-14 124427.jpg
Cool, maybe I remember it wrong, thanks Col.
I open the cap and slosh it around. If there's plenty she's full if there's none it's empty.
Mine is 6 L then both flashing 1.5. Always been accurate.
Quote from: GSXKING on Tuesday, 14 April 2026, 09:18 AM@Hooli are there different tyres on Mk2 ?
Yup, but my old one has always done it no matter what tyres were on it. I'd always thought it was just me not having confidence in the front end, seems not though.
Quote from: GSXKING on Tuesday, 14 April 2026, 09:18 AMWill you bother restoring MK1 now then ?
Of course, eventually. It's not going to start tomorrow though. I'm just slowly collecting parts first.
My webike parcel is due today so I can replace the missing bit in the clutch lever, which should make that smoother to use. I've also ordered a silver oil cooler guard & chain guard. I'll get both polished before fitting once they arrive as I really don't think the black ones suit this bike.
And just so it's recorded somewhere, the first time I rode this bike it had 46,023 miles on the clock.
Brass wotsit fitted to the clutch lever after work today, unsurprisingly the pivot bolts were dry & slightly rusty on both levers so got greased as did the crusty ends of the pushrod that I also cleaned. The clutch feels lighter & smoother now, which is nice. The nut underneath was also missing so I've put on one.
I've ordered a luggage rack as a just in case as I suspect this might do the odd rally rather than the HD this year. I've also ordered a silver oil cooler guard & chain guard. They'll go for polishing before fitting so they match the rest of it, delivery isn't till nearly May for one though so it won't be done next week.
That'll be pretty much everything done then, except a bit more tidying up of daft bits like the smear of black paint on the rear disc & clutch res window. Oh & finding a place to rebuild the shocks so the tatty pair for my original 14 can go back on there & this one gets clean ones to match the rest of it.
Where do you source a chain guard from @Hooli ?
Quote from: GSXKING on Wednesday, 15 April 2026, 08:53 AMWhere do you source a chain guard from @Hooli ?
Ebay, even if their description pretends the originals are plastic...
https://ebay.us/m/EUxDxD
I've got two broken originals, I should ask my welder mate if he can fix them really. But this seemed easier.
Oh & I will be trying straighter bars when I get chance, these are too swept back for me. Comfy enough but not right, no rush on that though as I need to replace my mate's ones before I can try her old ones.
Sounds like, there will be two, 14's sleeping in your garage from now, Hooli. :happy1: :lol: :rofl2:
What rack, have opted for?
I've got this one https://ebay.us/m/9JZBMY
If I was using it much I'd have gone for chrome but it'll only be fitted occasionally so black is fine. I've not opened it yet though, I will just confirm it fits before putting it away again.
I've got a complete Givi set too, I really need to get that blasted and powder coated as it's manky.
Hooli, the brass whatsit you fitted to clutch lever, part number? Thankyou Sir.
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 16 April 2026, 04:27 PMI've got this one https://ebay.us/m/9JZBMY
If I was using it much I'd have gone for chrome but it'll only be fitted occasionally so black is fine. I've not opened it yet though, I will just confirm it fits before putting it away again.
I've got a complete Givi set too, I really need to get that blasted and powder coated as it's manky.
That's a decent one, probably looks better fitted than the current Ventura luggage rack I ve got. looks like you can still fit the std rear grab rail too.
Quote from: grog on Thursday, 16 April 2026, 04:47 PMHooli, the brass whatsit you fitted to clutch lever, part number? Thankyou Sir.
59892-08A00
Part 5 here - https://www.suzukiparts.co.uk/shop/online-store/suzuki-parts-finder/gsx/gsx1400/k2-k3-k4-k5-k6-k7-2002-2007.htm?vehicle_id=29#!gsx1400clutchmaster
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Thursday, 16 April 2026, 05:10 PMQuote from: Hooli on Thursday, 16 April 2026, 04:27 PMI've got this one https://ebay.us/m/9JZBMY
If I was using it much I'd have gone for chrome but it'll only be fitted occasionally so black is fine. I've not opened it yet though, I will just confirm it fits before putting it away again.
I've got a complete Givi set too, I really need to get that blasted and powder coated as it's manky.
That's a decent one, probably looks better fitted than the current Ventura luggage rack I ve got. looks like you can still fit the std rear grab rail too.
That's what it says aye, fits Blandits etc too. Seems similar to the Renntec to me, which is all I wanted, but half the price.
Good sturdy lookin rack Hooli. Reckon you could easily get vertical loop made up to fit in those open tubes.Then a bag that slips over loop and sits on pillion seat. Thats how our Ventura rack/bags work, great set up for me and has been for years. Amazing what can be carried. My bag is 51 litres. Just a thought.
Quote from: grog on Thursday, 16 April 2026, 06:55 PMGood sturdy lookin rack Hooli. Reckon you could easily get vertical loop made up to fit in those open tubes.Then a bag that slips over loop and sits on pillion seat. Thats how our Ventura rack/bags work, great set up for me and has been for years. Amazing what can be carried. My bag is 51 litres. Just a thought.
Aye that'd work. But I'll probably never bother as not planning to fit it to use it very often.
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 16 April 2026, 04:27 PMI've got this one https://ebay.us/m/9JZBMY
If I was using it much I'd have gone for chrome but it'll only be fitted occasionally so black is fine. I've not opened it yet though, I will just confirm it fits before putting it away again.
I've got a complete Givi set too, I really need to get that blasted and powder coated as it's manky.
Thanks for the link. :onya:
Looks like a pretty, decent one, as you say for part time use. :worshippy:
I've only ever had the Ventura racks from day one, utilising several different insert bends. I usually have the tall one in as it holds my bag on nicely snug.
One did fracture through though because I'd overloaded the bag on some very bumpy roads. Learned my lesson on that one. They only come in pairs 🤑🤑.
Never used that style @Hooli has purchased.
Did you try that rack for fit yet?
Is a good fit and worth a punt?
Looks OK but would value your feedback. :onya: :worshippy: :notworthy:
Nah, I'll probably do that Sat as the damn thing needs a clean again anyway.
I fitted the same rack, from the same company. it's a good fit and straight forward.
I replaced the supplied end bungs for softer rubber ones, as mine were rock hard and split when I tried to get them in.
D.D.
new rack 2.jpeg
new rack.jpg
Hey Dwain, the CX looks very shinney, I know a certain forum owner who has one in boxes in his shed, waiting to be assembled, been there for years now. How about putting a couple of pic's of it up to maybe encourage Vlad to begin the resto & assembly. :whistling: :onya:
Quote from: Dwain Dibley on Yesterday at 04:08 AMI fitted the same rack, from the same company. it's a good fit and straight forward.
I replaced the supplied end bungs for softer rubber ones, as mine were rock hard and split when I tried to get them in.
D.D.
new rack 2.jpeg
new rack.jpg
Wow, looks a lot, wider when fitted, than in the promo' photo but quite sturdy. :laugh:
Thanks for that. Think, I'll get one. :onya:
Quote from: Dwain Dibley on Yesterday at 04:08 AMI fitted the same rack, from the same company. it's a good fit and straight forward.
I replaced the supplied end bungs for softer rubber ones, as mine were rock hard and split when I tried to get them in.
D.D.
new rack 2.jpeg
new rack.jpg
Good to know as I hadn't got around to trial fitting mine yet.
Nice rack DD
Here's a link to the build thread (https://www.cx500forum.com/threads/crewies-cx500b-1981.117176/#replies).
A coupla pics for
@VladTepes.
20240621_115139.jpg
20240621_115203.jpg
20240621_115155.jpg
Appologies for diverting your thread Hooli. :smitten:
D.D.
Vlad, show us yours . . . :whistling:
Oi go spam someone else's thread!
Quality not quantity chaps :lol: :lol:
:rofl2:
Head spammer, can't stay on track, I can see a pay deduction coming because of this. . . :whatever:
Quote from: Hooli on Yesterday at 05:51 PMOi go spam someone else's thread!
Quality not quantity chaps :lol: :lol:
:rofl2: