Hi Gents. Some of your wisdom please.
Have noticed a weeping fork seal. My intention is to do them both. Do I have to use genuine Suzuki seals or do the likes of someone like SKF do a good replacement and is there a dust cover or anything else I'm going to need to complete the job ?
:cheers:
Col, genuine are NOK 46x58x10,5. Fit hundreds of bikes. SKF get great reviews. Personally, $90 for genuine, i couldnt be bothered stuffing around for a few bucks to save. All other brands 👎
Same as you grog, I tried after market and they didn't last long, put genuine in and touch wood still okay after all these years :onya:
Only use genuine suzuki seals as aftermarket ones always leak very soon after no matter what the quality
Thank you, I also read dust covers are a separate part and are worth doing at the same time ?
Unless hard cracked etc, scrub up and refit imo.
Get your genuine ones from webike Japan, much cheaper & only take a few extra days to arrive. Fit them with the yellow spot upwards.
As said, dust seals just depend on how bad yours are. One other thought, you can pop the dust seals out with the bike still built up. Worth doing just to check how rusty the spring clip that retains the fork seal is, obviously if they're rotten replace those too.
SKF do make seals to suit, the problem is that they're green. Probably the best seals on the market and I use nothing else for any dirtbike that passes through my workshop. For the 1400 I'd stick with genuine (KYB) though - still excellent quality and they're black.
The retaining clips are likely to be rusty as Hooli said so I'd definitely check that out, or just order some while you're at it. Depending upon km travelled and maintenance history it could be worth considering replacing the slide bushings as well.
Adding my 2c, tried a setbof aftermarket, just rubbish like Seth said. Replaced with genuine, no probs. Just triple check the chrome on the stanchion, run a bit of 3000 grit wet n dry over the seal area, ensures the seals stay sealed.
There's a good point from lurch about the bushes, mine were totally shot by 113k miles when I had the forks rechromed too. Easy to spot if they are worn, the copper colour bush has gone & just the black backing showing - or might be the other way around I forget.
You'll know if they are bad due to a front end shiver & if you pull the fork legs you can feel slight movement compared to the stanchions.
Quote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 04 November 2025, 10:27 PMEasy to spot if they are worn, the copper colour bush has gone & just the black backing showing - or might be the other way around I forget.
The other way around
i had mine replaced a few weeks ago the mech told me the tubes are badly pitted and they will eventually leak again, he did price new tubes at 560 each
but he said sends them to business somewhere in Queensland he did mention there name which i forgot to be re chromed its lot cheaper but downside it takes around 5 weeks
Yeah we normally rechrome as it's cheaper over here too.
Quote from: stick3 on Wednesday, 05 November 2025, 09:33 AMbut he said sends them to business somewhere in Queensland he did mention there name which i forgot to be re chromed its lot cheaper but downside it takes around 5 weeks
Rad Hard Chroming. They did my XS650 forks a while back which came out perfect
Quote from: lurch on Wednesday, 05 November 2025, 10:22 AMQuote from: stick3 on Wednesday, 05 November 2025, 09:33 AMbut he said sends them to business somewhere in Queensland he did mention there name which i forgot to be re chromed its lot cheaper but downside it takes around 5 weeks
Rad Hard Chroming. They did my XS650 forks a while back which came out perfect
same bloke that runs Rad Shocks?
In last couple of years I replaced at least 20 pairs of fork seals on different bikes I serviced and I mostly used ariete and athena seals. My secret is to shorten the springs in seals for about 10mm, none of them had leaking so far :cheers:
That's a cunning idea :onya:
Col, as a try, check out sealmate or similar, could be dirty , maybe chrome sliders need a a good clean, scotchbrite light.Always try the easiest imo.
I leave that sort of thing to the professionals Stu @ Rising Sun Capalaba gets my business 🤑
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Wednesday, 05 November 2025, 02:22 PMsame bloke that runs Rad Shocks?
Not familiar with them sorry but on face value it appears not
Been using Athena for the last 10 years and no problem until now.