Vladtepes asked me to put something together for cleaning GSX1400's so, this "guide" is pretty generic as most of us have our own personal polishes or the suchlike that we use (although I will suggest a variety of products along the way that I use).
The other problem is knowing where to start. This write-up will only cover getting your 14 clean, it will not go into the virtues or mirror polishing items or getting rid of "rot" on the casings or fork sliders - although again I will reference options.
The other assumption here I'm making is that you are cleaning your bike in the summer, not the winter. If you are doing the winter, then you first need to give it a couple of cold washes to get rid of any salt (water must be cold, as road salt will react with hot water)
1. Get the bike upright if you can, as an upright bike is much easier to clean than one on its side stand. If you have a mainstand, that will be great, if not maybe use a paddock stand under the swing arm.
2. Assess the "dirtiness" of the bike. You need to consider 2 aspects here, areas which are greasy or oily and areas which are just plain dirty with road dirt. If you have greasy areas, then those are the areas we need to tackle first to get rid of the grease - typically areas will be engine, rear wheel, chain guard. Spray these areas with your preferred bike cleaner (typical ones being Muc Off, Auto Glym Bike Cleaner, SDoc100 Gel) agitating those areas that are particularly greasy with a brush (re-applying bike cleaner as necessary). Leave the bike cleaner to dwell (read the instructions on the cleaner for the recommended time) Once the time is up, wash off with some hot soapy water. If there are still greasy areas apparent, then repeat this process as necessary.
3. Once all greasy parts are cleaned off, then you can turn your attention to the rest of the bike. Before washing it down, spray the bike over completely to wet it, this will wash off any loose dirt, and also help start to free an stubborn dirt. Once its wet, then wash the bike down with hot soapy water (use a good quality car shampoo as the soap, not washing up liquid (as washing up liquid has detergents which can remove any polish previously applied). For this process try to use a micro-fibre wash-mitt or preferably a sheepskin wash-mitt rather than a sponge. Why? Because a sponge will "hold" any dirt that it picks up as it washes which can lead to paintwork getting swirls (the risk is significantly less if a wash-mitt is used). Its often handy to have a small 1/4" paint or detailing brush to hand here for getting into those awkward to get at places, like around the calipers. Once all washed, spray the bike over with cold water to wash off the soap.
4. You now need to dry the bike off. Try to avoid using chamois leathers if you can, as like sponges, if any dirt specs have landed since you washed the bike off, then they can hold them and cause paint swirls. Instead, fold a micro-fibre cloth and instead of wiping, lay the cloth on top of the water to soak it up on painted surfaces - . do not rub it though, just damp the water off! You can wipe around engine and alloy items, but not paintwork. Allow the bike to dry fully.
5. Next is working top down to polish the various components of the bike. The secret to getting a good finish is "little and often" when using polishes, also what sort of applicator you use. My personal preference for polishing anything on the bike is to use make up remover pads (if you don't know what these are ask the other half!) as these stop you applying too much product, they are nice and soft, you can easily replace them as they get dirty and they get into all the little places (also a packet is very cheap). So whether its polish on the paint or alloy, apply using a make up remover pad (flat - try not to scrunch it up). Make sure you read the instructions of the chosen product you are using, as all have different dwell times, some have to dry, some dry to a haze - do follow this! Once the product has reached the appropriate state, then buff off using a good quality micro-fibre cloth (but don't use the same one for paint work, alloy etc - use separate ones).
6. Next - the engine. Depends what you have here, standard lacquered cases, black cases, mirror polished cases - all need different treatment. If you still have the standard cases, then just use a good quality polish on them, not something abrasive (like autosol) as that will just wear the lacquer down (and scratch). Use some cotton buds for cleaning in those awkward areas (like between the fins), and once all done, spray over with some engine spray to put a lustre across the complete engine
7. Finally - exhaust system. Again depends which system you have, and whether chrome, stainless, carbon etc. For stainless, Belgom Alu (applied same as we did for paintwork with makeup pads) works very well for getting the shine back, or Mothers Mag and Aluminium polish (Mothers also works very well on chrome parts)
And that really is about it for a generic cleaning guide - happy to address any specific questions, as with our 14's we have a whole range of different items fitted and different finishes requiring different products to clean them with
That's quite comprehensive, I don't clean mine like that but I might try some of your tips, thanks.
Thank you.
Yes there are some good tips there to be used cheers :onya: great write up
For stainless exhaust work brilliantly Autosol Pickling Agent. Clean exhaust with it is so difficult as clean dust. :hat:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-R5dJCReO4
Almost same product as their Bluing Remover, but much cheaper because Pickling Agent is for industry use, not for bikers use.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFTS_wyem-Y
Love the watch strapped to the exhaust - style! :onya: :clapping:
As a quick addition to Barmy's write up..
I use a garden leaf blower to dry the bike off after washing. It works a treat!!!
Great write up Barmy.
Good to point out about using a sponge, they can be great at scratching paint.
And I bet the leaf blower works a treat Froudy.
After washing I like WD40 and a compressor for de-watering but don't get it on your brakes and be mindful of tyres too. Then a really good wipe down with clean cloth. Polish the paintwork and she looks beautiful.
Not an executive clean Barmy, but when I park her and look back she looks good. :)
Nice - like the idea of bags over the discs as well :onya:
I like the leaf blower idea
Hi guys,
Some excellent advice here, although I have a question:
How do you guys clean the engine fins? Mine are looking a bit grubby now and I always see 14's on here with nice shiny ones. I've just bought some of that S100 Black and Shine for the black paint on the engine (planning to give her a treat this weekend coming) but would be great if I could get those fins looking better as well :cheers:
Any suggestions appreciated.
Hi Dan - best way to clean in-between is to raid the misses makeup draw and use some q-tips. Either spray S100 on the q-tip itself and wipe inbetween the fins, or spray it over the cylinder block and wipe in-between.
I got a load of q-tips cheap from superdrug (same place as I buy the makeup remover pads for applying polish to casings) as they are good value AND I don't lose Brownie points for pinching her preferred selection of warpaint items LOL
youve done the correct thing with s100, one of my favourites. fins, a rag, autosol and some time. all it takes. after they look nice i just coat with inox, lanox. either one works. from memory, initially i might have used some fine wet n dry paper, cant remember. sounds like something i wouldve done. think thats where id start. they do look nice in contrast to black. hence my i.d piccy. 14 motor is just beautiful. shiny edge of fins im talking about. s100 will get in between fins, a rag, cotton bud, whatever gets in there. s100 will make it pretty.
Quote from: grog on Monday, 01 May 2017, 08:44 PM
youve done the correct thing with s100, one of my favourites. fins, a rag, autosol and some time. all it takes. after they look nice i just coat with inox, lanox. either one works. from memory, initially i might have used some fine wet n dry paper, cant remember. sounds like something i wouldve done. think thats where id start. they do look nice in contrast to black. hence my i.d piccy. 14 motor is just beautiful. shiny edge of fins im talking about. s100 will get in between fins, a rag, cotton bud, whatever gets in there. s100 will make it pretty.
Hi grog,
Many thanks for the reply mate. Appreciate that.
I did think of using autosol with some fine grade steel wool, as that's what I always use, but I wasn't sure if i'd end up somehow damaging the engine as I've only ever used it on stainless steel and chrome previously. It would be such a shame to use the S100 stuff on the engine, only for the fins to let it down by looking a bit dirty.
I'll follow your advice and go ahead with the autosol with a rag first, see how it comes up. If not good enough, will look into the wet n dry solution.
Thanks again
One thing I'd add to the above is use the two bucket method. One bucket to load up the wash mitt with detergent water and another to rinse off the glove once used, before redipping into the detergent water.
@gsxbarmy what are your thoughts on
- wheel cleaner (maguires or similar)
- foam
- small polishing machines.
- surface protectants for plastics.
So here's what I use
@VladTepes - Wheel Cleaner: I use Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel Cleaner (not sure if this is available down under) as what I like about it is that is aggressive on dirt and brake dust but not on the wheels (many wheels cleaners like wonder wheels have a certain amount of acid in them to cut through the crud which gives you very limited time to work with it). I've also used Valet PRO Bilberry Wheel Cleaner (which is probably available down under) - its excellent, but I find the Bilt Hamber a bit better. Neither is aggressive to the wheel or the paintwork, but does cut through the crud. You just need to let it dwell for a while.
- Foam: I assume you mean Snowfoam. I use the Autoglym Polar Blast Snow Foam applied with a Meguiars Foam nozzle as I find it tends to "stick" a lot longer to the dirt and not just roll off (although it all depends how the gun is set up)
- small polishing machines: Personally I have the Meguairs G220 which I've found very good - many people like the DAS6 as an option as well, very similar to the G220 (although the G220 has now been updated to the MT320).
- surface protectant for plastics - Meguiar's Boat Marine Plastx Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish. in between (quick washes) I top this up using ArmorAll to just take off any water marks after washing (so I use ArmorAll as a Detailer in between full polishes)
I guess the way in which you clean your `14 depends a lot on whether its a daily ride (an all weather machine), or whether its used as often as possible in decent and good weather. Thankfully, my `14 slots nicely into the latter category. I do my best to keep it really, really nice, but, I don`t spend hours shining every nut & bolt. Personally I prefer a level of patina reflecting the miles covered etc. etc.
On that basis, my cleaning technique may sound a little basic to the purists our there, buy hey, it works really well. So here goes:-
Firstly, having no main stand fitted i always wash/clean the bike on a paddock stand ensuring that both sides are equally accessible.
I`ll then stuff old rags into each exhaust outlet to ensure no direct water ingress. After an initial light spray over with a hosepipe i`ll wash the entire bike with hot soapy water using a sponge. All of the hard to get places inc. between the engine fins and beneath the block i use a car wheel brush - i find these get everywhere that i can`t access with the sponge and are perfect to clean the underside of the bike too. Once completed i`ll wrinse the entire bike off and give it a quick wipe down using one of those moisture absorbent cloths (which are readily available in numerous outlets). Then, having `junked` the rags from the end cans i fire the bike up and leave it ticking over for a few minutes. The excess moisture soon evaporates.
I use the following for the final `finish` - all of which i really rate and have been using for years:-
Painted metal, plastics & general chrome - Auto Glym super resin polish.
Alloy - Solvol Autosol.
Rear wheel (yep, mines white!!) - Gunk engine degreasant spray. Spray it on, leave for 5 mins, agitate with a 1.5" gloss type paintbrush and rinse off with soapy water. Good as new!
Finally, i`ll apply Muc-Off dry or wet chain lube inside and outside of the moving chain.
Job done and ready to roll..... :)
I don't understand the concept of this thread.
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 30 January 2020, 08:08 AM
I don't understand the concept of this thread.
:happy1: :happy1: :happy1:
Thanks
@gsxbarmy barmy . Yeah that's what I meant (snow foam).
Do you clean the chain first before washing the bike?
I reckon it makes sense to clean the chain first then wheels, then wash / dry / polish, then lube chain at the end before putting the bike away . Yeah?
I'm gonna head to https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/ outlet at Murarrie on Saturday to pick up some bits and pieces for the car and bike.
This will include a snow foam lance because - fun ! (and the New Mazda 3 looks WAY better when its clean).
So maybe I'll wash the bike this weekend - it sure needs it !
I wash my chain first, in paraffin, along with the wheel, rear sprocket, swing arm & bits of the rear bodywork as it gets chain lube off. Rinse with water & then wash the bike.
As you say, it makes sense.
Quote from: VladTepes on Thursday, 30 January 2020, 12:28 PM
Thanks @gsxbarmy barmy . Yeah that's what I meant (snow foam).
Do you clean the chain first before washing the bike?
I reckon it makes sense to clean the chain first then wheels, then wash / dry / polish, then lube chain at the end before putting the bike away . Yeah?
I'm gonna head to https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/ outlet at Murarrie on Saturday to pick up some bits and pieces for the car and bike.
This will include a snow foam lance because - fun ! (and the New Mazda 3 looks WAY better when its clean).
So maybe I'll wash the bike this weekend - it sure needs it !
Yep, always clean chain first. When re-lubing, I always stick a sheet of cardboard in between the chain and the wheel to stop lube going all over the newly polished bodywork.
Have fun with the snow foam. Takes a while to get the lance "just so" for a good covering, but fun as you say.
Well the foam is fun ! Degreased rar end, cleaned all around wheels/brakes etc. Foam and rinse. 2 bucket wash. Blow dry :)
Looking very good so far.
Next jobs
- clay bar tank
- give it a polish and protect
- lube chain (yes will be taking extreme care including your advice)
Naturally now I've done that it looks like it will rain this week, so might catch the train and finish the bike at night.