Hi everyone.
I've just replaced my clutch line with new Venhill stainless one, also cleaned out the slave cylinder, gearshift has improved greatly but I seem to have a slight weep from the slave cylinder. I could replace the seals with new although it was quite manky. I could replace it completely with a new Suzuki one, or for the same price one from oberon £130, anyone tried the oberon one, any advantage over Suzuki.
Cheers I advance
Paul :cheers:
I just went through this same comparison over the weekend. End result was that I bought a new genuine slave + 23163-06B00 Hayabusa dust seal.
The Oberon slave didn't look to have a seal in the area most people retrofit a Hayabusa dust seal to keep the crud out. They also don't sell rebuild kits and state that the cylinder should be returned to them for service - not something I'm interested in doing from Aus down the track.
Nothing wrong with Oberon in general however. There are plenty out there fitted to KTM's as there are a few models with known issues, fortunately my KTM's are all fine however.
Soooooo, replaced the seals on the slave cylinder and fitted the Hayabusa seal.
Re bled although was still getting bubbles but the may have been leaks around tube to the vac pump. Anyways no leaks but going to rebleed as the shift feels clunky again :embarrassed:
I never bother with a fancy bleeder for that job. They bleed so easy you can just leave the bleed nipple open for 5 mins after filling the master cylinder up.
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 15 August 2024, 06:53 AMI never bother with a fancy bleeder for that job. They bleed so easy you can just leave the bleed nipple open for 5 mins after filling the master cylinder up.
Wow really, I'll give that a go :cheers:
Paul
Hoolis way or just a old fashioned one hand on lever, one hand on bleeder nipple spanner.Usually just a few squeezes does the job.Vac bleeders have their place, just not for this job.
Quote from: grog on Thursday, 15 August 2024, 05:15 PMHoolis way or just a old fashioned one hand on lever, one hand on bleeder nipple spanner.Usually just a few squeezes does the job.Vac bleeders have their place, just not for this job.
TBH I normally do the lever pump thing Grog. But I find it's half bled if it open the nipple, fill up the master & then go to get my tube & jar of old brake fluid. Makes it even quicker.
It's a nice straight downhill run so flows naturally to fill the system.
+1 for that procedure. Just did the same on my BMW, which uses a light mineral oil instead of brake fluid, it's non hygroscopic and supposedly a sealed for life system. Same principle, fill the resevoir to the top, crack the nipple at the slave, let it bleed into a waste container, topup the resevoir and let it flow through. A pump or two forces clean fluid through the slave on that bike, but not required on the 1402.
Quote from: Phill P on Wednesday, 07 August 2024, 01:44 AMHi everyone.
I've just replaced my clutch line with new Venhill stainless one, also cleaned out the slave cylinder, gearshift has improved greatly but I seem to have a slight weep from the slave cylinder. I could replace the seals with new although it was quite manky. I could replace it completely with a new Suzuki one, or for the same price one from oberon £130, anyone tried the oberon one, any advantage over Suzuki.
Cheers I advance
Paul :cheers:
Hey Paul, improved gearshift just with new line and cleaning of oem slave ? I once lost all the DOT4 slowly due to using a racing version. Despite being DOT4 it was thinner than normal one. Replaced it for the normal again, no problems. The racing versions have a different viscosity, so they weep past the seals.
Cheers for the tips everyone.
I'm going to unstrap the lever, crack the bleed nipple for 10, maybe and a little grease to the upper part of the thread and the bleed in a more traditional way.
Using dot 4,was a good shift initially when I replaced the line but clunky when I redid the slave seals so I think it's just needing more bleeding.
Next month will be plugs, teabag filter and pairs delete....oh such fun :smitten:
Tip for next month - check the vacuum lines. They go brittle with age & eventually split causing slow running issues.
Quote from: Hooli on Friday, 16 August 2024, 08:48 PMTip for next month - check the vacuum lines. They go brittle with age & eventually split causing slow running issues.
Cheers for the heads up, what size are they as its always been a tad lumpy at low revs
3.2mm ID I think, you'll need about a 2/3rds of a metre to replace them all. Could be you need to balance the throttles though...
The plan is after plugs teabag and pairs delete I'll get a garage to balance the injectors and maybe check the tps etc.
Aye that's the right order, balance then set the TPS.
Cool :cheers:
Removed bleed nipple,added a little grease to the threads. Couldn't see any bubbles when I removed it but rebled it slightly with a one way valve and got some bubbles then.
Gave it a ride, night and day difference, just seems to snick in nicely most of the time :8: