Just a general question, my steering is very 'free', no play or slop felt with the front wheel up, pulled fore & aft & sideways, all good, but the slightest touch is enough to turn the bars.
I see spec is 200 - 400g (which sounds very light by comparison with other bikes) but mine turns with 50 odd grams of force. It's very light n twitchy.
Just wondering if I need any special tools to tighten the stem bearing a bit & the procedure.
You'll probably need a castle socket http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-STEERING-SOCKET-TOOL-1200-BANDIT-GSX-1400-HEAD-RACE-TRIPLE-TREE-s4-/302229453998?hash=item465e477cae:m:mIiPk0zcv9-ba1b_QOsq3sg to make tightening a bit easier, also - and I seem to recall grog made this tip (although i never tried it) - to get the tension right use a hanging scale http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-Weight-Portable-Digital-Electronic-Hanging-Fishing-Luggage-/172266218648?hash=item281bdde498:g:VdgAAOSwRQlXfgkP which you can use to pull to get the 200-400g
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Monday, 20 March 2017, 04:47 AMYou'll probably need a castle socket
I bought one off a very nice man :grin:
No idea who that was Del :lol:
Col, i just use a pin punch and hammer. gentle tapping is all thats needed. the spring balance is not my idea, its in haynes manual. section 1, page 22-23. its a very good gsx bible.
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Monday, 20 March 2017, 04:47 AM
You'll probably need a castle socket http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-STEERING-SOCKET-TOOL-1200-BANDIT-GSX-1400-HEAD-RACE-TRIPLE-TREE-s4-/302229453998?hash=item465e477cae:m:mIiPk0zcv9-ba1b_QOsq3sg to make tightening a bit easier, also - and I seem to recall grog made this tip (although i never tried it) - to get the tension right use a hanging scale http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-Weight-Portable-Digital-Electronic-Hanging-Fishing-Luggage-/172266218648?hash=item281bdde498:g:VdgAAOSwRQlXfgkP which you can use to pull to get the 200-400g
Barmy, is this with the front end fully assembled with wheel etc and "off" the ground?
Quote from: bigian14 on Monday, 15 June 2020, 04:55 PM
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Monday, 20 March 2017, 04:47 AM
You'll probably need a castle socket http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-STEERING-SOCKET-TOOL-1200-BANDIT-GSX-1400-HEAD-RACE-TRIPLE-TREE-s4-/302229453998?hash=item465e477cae:m:mIiPk0zcv9-ba1b_QOsq3sg to make tightening a bit easier, also - and I seem to recall grog made this tip (although i never tried it) - to get the tension right use a hanging scale http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-Weight-Portable-Digital-Electronic-Hanging-Fishing-Luggage-/172266218648?hash=item281bdde498:g:VdgAAOSwRQlXfgkP which you can use to pull to get the 200-400g
Barmy, is this with the front end fully assembled with wheel etc and "off" the ground?
Yes, but with the stem nut undone (as what you are adjusting is the castle nut). Essentially it's the same process as that described in the workshop manual but using the hanging scale to get the castle nut tension right
When I did mine I just tightened it up by hand with the wheel on the ground and I just rocked it back and forth as I tightened it up. Once it was as tight as I could get it I replaced the top clamp and did the top nut up, job done.
Measure it? I do it so with the front end roughly assembled (top yoke half off to get access with a punch to the castle nut) that it stays straight when lined up, but a gentle tap on the bars means it falls to the side & continues to the lock stop.
Tbh, I've done mine so many times now I can set it with just the bottom yoke in place. But I always check as above before dropping it back down.
Here is how I test for correct tightness (IMO much more accurate than with the spring scale):
Front up so the wheel is off the ground and fork can be pivoted. Turn the fork to a stop (*), then positioned away from the stop to half-turned, then let go of the handlebars, now the fork must drop to the stop. Then turn the fork to the center and from center turn to half set, let go, the fork must stop and must not fall against the stop.
(*) With the wire loom installed completely into the lamp housing this method (as well as the one in the service manual) is inaccurate as the loom exerts force.
I'm finding it hard to understand what you're saying here
@Andre. First part I get, from the stop take the bars half way to centre, they should drop back to the stop. The next bit I can't understand. From centre take the bars to the same half way position & they should stay there, not fall against the stop.
How does that work then? You're saying from the same position in an arc, depending on how it got there, the bars will either stay put or fall against a stop. That's the bit that's hard to comprehend.
Col I think it's -
With the bars turned halfway (either left or right) and let go, they should fall to full lock.
With the bars straight ahead, they should stay there.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Tuesday, 16 June 2020, 03:43 AM
I'm finding it hard to understand what you're saying here @Andre. First part I get, from the stop take the bars half way to centre, they should drop back to the stop. The next bit I can't understand. From centre take the bars to the same half way position & they should stay there, not fall against the stop.
How does that work then? You're saying from the same position in an arc, depending on how it got there, the bars will either stay put or fall against a stop. That's the bit that's hard to comprehend.
@KiwiCol understood correctly what I wrote! The part you don't comprehend is the same part I don't comprehend :cheers:
It does not sound logical. But that's how it works! I can't explain the physics/mechanics behind this.
I got this info from a guy whose business is precision bearings for steering stems and swing arms. I went by recommendation and faith. Dropped the faith by seeing it myself when I adjusted to his instructions. That's how it worked and still does after 18000 km
(just went into the garage and checked as my bike is currently in a state where I can do that).
I didn't buy his products or service, just used the info he provides to adjust the steering stem when I upgraded from ball bearings to roller bearings. I am not sure if this method works with ball bearings but shouldn't matter as everyone that cares about this has changed to roller bearings anyway.
Sorry, forgot. Besides the loom it is also advisable to get the throttle cables and clutch hose out of the way.
Thanks for the explanation. It's just the way it is then.
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Monday, 15 June 2020, 06:20 PM
Quote from: bigian14 on Monday, 15 June 2020, 04:55 PM
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Monday, 20 March 2017, 04:47 AM
You'll probably need a castle socket http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-STEERING-SOCKET-TOOL-1200-BANDIT-GSX-1400-HEAD-RACE-TRIPLE-TREE-s4-/302229453998?hash=item465e477cae:m:mIiPk0zcv9-ba1b_QOsq3sg to make tightening a bit easier, also - and I seem to recall grog made this tip (although i never tried it) - to get the tension right use a hanging scale http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-Weight-Portable-Digital-Electronic-Hanging-Fishing-Luggage-/172266218648?hash=item281bdde498:g:VdgAAOSwRQlXfgkP which you can use to pull to get the 200-400g
Barmy, is this with the front end fully assembled with wheel etc and "off" the ground?
Yes, but with the stem nut undone (as what you are adjusting is the castle nut). Essentially it's the same process as that described in the workshop manual but using the hanging scale to get the castle nut tension right
Workshop manual? this place is my workshop manual :grin: