Over winter I have fitted a new chain and sprocket set including all bearings.
The chain is a D.I.D 530ZVM 116 with standard renthal front sprocket and a renthal rear sprocket 1 tooth over standard.
The problem I have is there is tight and loose areas on the chain as it spins, I got intouch with the shop I bought it all from and I advised them that the rear sprocket wasn't running true, they told me that they have heard of this before and sent me out a replacement from a different batch number but its still got tight spots, has anybody came across this problem before and is so how did you sort it.
Eric.
Hopefully there are others that can offer more than the obvious stuff we have chatted about .
Good luck mate :cheers:
Off the top of my head..
Mating face totally clean where the sprocket sits on the carrier?
Is the bearing definitely square in the carrier? It's easy to not quite seat them properly & leave it at an angle so the sprocket runs at an angle.
I think I'd be setting up a pointer against the sprockets & turning things over slowly to make sure they are running true.
Something trapped between the sprocket carrier & the crush drive so it's out of line, or something behind a crush drive rubber doing the same thing?
It's worth checking the chain, if you've not riveted it right that link could be stiff making things odd.
I'm sure I recall once managing to get the springy flat plates on the inside of the swingarm (that the spacers run against) out of place somehow & that pushed the axle out of line.
Done anything daft like put one of the adjuster plates that line up the axle on backwards? I'm sure the distance from the edge to the axle is different on each side of the plate. That'd push the wheel out of line & could cause issues I guess.
Wheel Bearing?
Have had similar but only with a used chain , if the runout on both sprockets is ok has to be the chain for my 10 cents worth , shouldn't be with a new chain but tight links causes exactly what your describing .
I once had similar, was new front sprocket. Also had seized link on 14, loose/tight chain and sounded like had a jackhammer inside gearbox, could hear it from 100 metres.I honestly thought i had huge problem not just chain.As said, check sprocket runout, mounting etc. Go thru each chain link one by one. Have you checked carrier bearing?
Have you over splayed the joiner pin ?
Quote from: Kiwifruit on Friday, 08 March 2024, 05:53 PMHave you over splayed the joiner pin ?
No mate I measured the thickness of a link and the joiner link is there or there abouts. :cry2:
Quote from: grog on Friday, 08 March 2024, 04:14 PMI once had similar, was new front sprocket. Also had seized link on 14, loose/tight chain and sounded like had a jackhammer inside gearbox, could hear it from 100 metres.I honestly thought i had huge problem not just chain.As said, check sprocket runout, mounting etc. Go thru each chain link one by one. Have you checked carrier bearing?
I checked the front sprocket mate and it looked to be running true.
Quote from: horse on Friday, 08 March 2024, 03:27 PMHave had similar but only with a used chain , if the runout on both sprockets is ok has to be the chain for my 10 cents worth , shouldn't be with a new chain but tight links causes exactly what your describing .
That's something I haven't checked,so will be on my list of checking things. :cheers:
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 07 March 2024, 11:04 PMOff the top of my head..
Mating face totally clean where the sprocket sits on the carrier?
Is the bearing definitely square in the carrier? It's easy to not quite seat them properly & leave it at an angle so the sprocket runs at an angle.
I think I'd be setting up a pointer against the sprockets & turning things over slowly to make sure they are running true.
Something trapped between the sprocket carrier & the crush drive so it's out of line, or something behind a crush drive rubber doing the same thing?
It's worth checking the chain, if you've not riveted it right that link could be stiff making things odd.
I'm sure I recall once managing to get the springy flat plates on the inside of the swingarm (that the spacers run against) out of place somehow & that pushed the axle out of line.
Done anything daft like put one of the adjuster plates that line up the axle on backwards? I'm sure the distance from the edge to the axle is different on each side of the plate. That'd push the wheel out of line & could cause issues I guess.
Thanks hooli that gives me a few avenues to explore. :cheers:
Quote from: seth on Thursday, 07 March 2024, 10:43 PMHopefully there are others that can offer more than the obvious stuff we have chatted about .
Good luck mate :cheers:
:cheers:
OK people thanks for all your input on my little problem, I have looked at all the suggestions that everybody contributed but to no avail so as a last resort I bunged the old rear sprocket back on and guess what the problem went away, who would have thought that two brand new renthal rear sprockets was to blame.It was a last resort putting the old sprocket back on as I was at a loss I would never have thought that the replacement sprocket would be at fault, I did think that it was possible but highly unlikely, so that's it for me....no more renthal sprockets.
Once again thanks for yer input.
So you are now running a new chain on an old sprocket or did you get another new, different branded sprocket?
JT full steel are good quality, id be steering clear of fancy aluminium sprockets myself.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Thursday, 21 March 2024, 08:34 AMSo you are now running a new chain on an old sprocket or did you get another new, different branded sprocket?
JT full steel are good quality, id be steering clear of fancy aluminium sprockets myself.
Quote from: Eric on Thursday, 21 March 2024, 11:58 AMQuote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Thursday, 21 March 2024, 08:34 AMSo you are now running a new chain on an old sprocket or did you get another new, different branded sprocket?
JT full steel are good quality, id be steering clear of fancy aluminium sprockets myself.
I put the old sprocket on to illuminate all scenarios as none of the other scenarios from others did not work and I've come to the conclusion that it was a bad rear sprocket not once but twice. I will be looking elsewhere for a rear sprocket the old one was a process of illumination and I think may have sorted my problem
Just gotta find another one
I checked the renthal ones, all aluminium. Stick with steel would be my advice.
Esjot would be my choice, German quality with highest grade steel.A bit dearer but quality costs.
Quote from: grog on Thursday, 21 March 2024, 05:22 PMEsjot would be my choice, German quality with highest grade steel.A bit dearer but quality costs.
esjot is JT as far as i know
Esjot is German company,JT or Jomthai Asahi, same company, are made China or Thailand, both leading brands.
Hello, i was looking this aft on ebay for new chain and sprocket kits. Does not seem to be much choice on there for makers or suppliers, most offering various sprocket sizes saying they are standard equipment on 1400s
I put the last one on in 2012 , Make EK heavy duty x ring . when i have checked on past dates for invoice and Mot date it has only done 9147ml due to various lay offs.
So not sure whether to change or not , which make is best these days , ZVX OR ZVX M
All opinions welcomed. Cheers Dave
have a read of the attached PDF in this link, https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=775.0
9000 miles is not great for a chain/sprocket set, my bikes still on it's original at 35000 miles. Its a DiD chain. I think the ZVM is the better chain.
RK Takasago ZXW chain and sprockets for me, bikes on 51000kms and I think it's the second set in it's lifetime. Correct adjustment and cleaning is key.
Dave, think all brand names are good. I had RK seize a link, think mainly due to useless wurth chain lube. Fitted lesser EK than yours, O ring to wear out sprockets b4 a whole new set. 30 th ks now, never even needed adjustment once. Lasting IMO is due to maintenance and correct lube.I clean with brake cleaner and wd40, brush n rag, many spins. posted many times on my lube but is superb. VMX Castrol gear oil. Oil can, spin and apply to each side. Spin wheel heaps more. Wipe off with rag, Have a 1/2 hour ride, wipe away fling, job done for ages. Chain just sounds nice, totally not a fan of spray can chain lube.Just my way. EK have highest tensile chain, reckon be my next, doubt id ever wear it out. EK ZVX3.
Thanks for all replies, will give a good clean and check Grog style and see what i think.
I have been using some chain lube from when i worked on fork trucks , sticky as shit and dont fly off but may be too sticky for this job .Thanks Dave
I've always had XRing chain different colours over the years.
Chain is under a lot of stress under heavy acceleration and wheelies so my mileage is reduced significantly.
However as Grog points out regular cleaning to get rid of grit etc prior to lubing helps significantly.
I've always used Motul chain lube it goes on white so you can see if you've missed anything. It dries clear and let it sit overnight there is zero fling.
I'm with the Grog system now, thanks Grog. VMX80, clean chain with just a rag because I do it often then apply the VMX, leave over night with rags under chain.
That spray chain lube, IMO it's just sticky shit that main job is to have abrasive road pus stick to it. As a lube, meh.