My sincere apologies for posting the pictures that follow ... they are not nice ... this is the result of riding throughout the year for many years, before I took it off the road (at around 103k miles) to do it up ... 7 years have passed since that day!
This was in 2014, a few years after I'd done a full rebuild the first time, again after year round riding ...
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-050923012340.jpeg)
You should now sit down ... what it looks like at the moment ...
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-050923012757.jpeg)
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-050923013154-1040454.jpeg)
Only good thing is the yokes/risers I designed have held up ...
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-050923013154-10401977.jpeg)
So now starts the long process of trying to do it up and get it back to a decent state!
First thing to do is to see if I can get it running again ... I have a spare set of throttle bodies, a new set of throttle cables and some engine flush ... will need to use the ignition off my (buggered) K5 as the original is jammed solid.
Once (positive thoughts) I get it running again it's then new oil filter and oil, before anything else is started.
All the best ... Barry
P.S. Still trying to figure out images, I've added them to my gallery and expected them to be displayed, but you need to click on the link!! (Fix applied - KC)
Ooo-err!!! Best of luck with the rebuild, keep us posted on your progress , especially pics . Happy tinkering Barry.
I should have taken the warning seriously... :doh:
Should keep you busy for a long time. Fortunately you have two to work with :cheers:
WOW !!!!!!!!!!! I hope you are gona get the frame blasted and checked for weak spots before putting 10 coats of powder on it ? :undecided:
I'm assuming as barmy hasn't replied to this
A, he's not seen it or
B he has and is still picking him self up off the floor, :rofl2: :boogie:
Thanks for the warning ⛔️
I'd have had a heart attack otherwise 🧐
Jesus H Christ that is gonna take some serious time and effort. You've done it before so you've got some form 👍
Good luck 🤞 keep us posted on your progress Doug 🙏
Yeah, I dunno :whatever: personally I'd be junking it, strip it and sell the usable parts or just sell the whole thing to a scrappy, especially if it's been in this state before as the rust is likely to be inside the frame as well.
On a happy note, yes those risers do look to have stood the neglect & there also appears to be an intact 30amp fuse, so there's another bonus . . . :onya: :clapping:
A bit harsh Col :stir: :stir: :stir:
Quote from: GSXKING on Tuesday, 05 September 2023, 06:59 AMA bit harsh Col :stir: :stir: :stir:
Wait till Dave sees them!
could always pick up a used frame.
@BanditsHigh , this bike isn't the infamous "Boat Anchor" from the previous org is it? I recall reading about it's journeys past moored boats & wanting to throw itself underneath them etc :rofl2: :happy1: . Great posts those. :onya: :clapping:
Oh my, never seen a frame like that before, will be a challenge. As said I get the frame properly checked out.
Paul
IMO only, too far gone Barry. Frame is def cactus, therell be so many other things in sim state.If you really want a challenge, go for it. Maybe use its motor or its parts for your other 14.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Tuesday, 05 September 2023, 01:16 PM@BanditsHigh , this bike isn't the infamous "Boat Anchor" from the previous org is it? I recall reading about it's journeys past moored boats & wanting to throw itself underneath them etc :rofl2: :happy1: . Great posts those. :onya: :clapping:
Yes, the very one ... need to see if I can dig out some pics of it ... it was in a pretty sad state, but I don't think the frame was as bad ... the seat subframe is the worst, might be salvageable but yes another frame is possibly the way to go (would prefer to keep the reg but think that requires both donor and current bike to be taxed and mot'd before regs can be swapped)!
Current thoughts are get it running again and go from there ... might then put the K3 engine into the K5 to get it back on the road without buying a new engine (for now) ... that then means I can strip the K3 fully and do a proper job on it.
The thought of dropping two engines and putting one back in fills me with dread, that and I don't have the energy and strength anymore ... years ago I could lift the engine from the ground onto a bench, but it's HEAVY!!
I think either build engine stand and attach, undo all bolts and lift frame off ... or bike on it's side, undo all bolts and lift frame off.
All the best ... Barry
Barry, can you take top off K5 motor, check out whats rattling. Use parts from rusty to fix it. Check pairs valves, maybe one has broken. Such low mileage, im reluctant to think its major. Loose timing chain due to adjuster stuck? That would be my first move, they dont usually stuff motors, especially at low ks. I wouldnt give up on that motor. BTW, trains, cars have engines., bikes have motors.
Nasty. :facepalm:
you can not swap frame numbers (reg numbers) from frame to frame, you would have to buy a frame with a V5. as to lifting engines then the way to go is strip the bike down as much as you can and lay the frame with engine on its side, then you lift the frame off the engine, so much easier, just done the same thing on my current project bike and all by my self. :onya:
Meh, tidier than mine :lol:
Quote from: Mick_J on Tuesday, 05 September 2023, 07:08 PMNasty. :facepalm:
Is that all you have to say Mick :stir: :stir:
Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 05 September 2023, 06:39 PMBarry, can you take top off K5 motor, check out whats rattling. Use parts from rusty to fix it. Check pairs valves, maybe one has broken. Such low mileage, im reluctant to think its major. Loose timing chain due to adjuster stuck? That would be my first move, they dont usually stuff motors, especially at low ks. I wouldnt give up on that motor. BTW, trains, cars have engines., bikes have motors.
Oh I'll be looking at it ... first order of business is to see if I can get the exhaust off.
Pairs valves was one thing that came to mind, possibly stripped camshaft holder bolts, shims popped out ... it's horrendous whatever it is.
I'm as surprised as anyone if it's gubbed at 25k miles, my K3 had done 103k before I took it off the road (it was still running fine).
All the best ... Barry
Quote from: hard road on Tuesday, 05 September 2023, 07:58 PMyou can not swap frame numbers (reg numbers) from frame to frame, you would have to buy a frame with a V5. as to lifting engines then the way to go is strip the bike down as much as you can and lay the frame with engine on its side, then you lift the frame off the engine, so much easier, just done the same thing on my current project bike and all by my self. :onya:
Hi, I didn't say anything about swapping frame numbers, it's the registration I'm talking about swapping ... I know you can transfer a private plate to any vehicle, so assumed that this would be no different :)
Taking motor out, yep someone else mentioned that (or I read it in a post) ... I've not done that before, although when I rebuilt the K3 previously I had the engine raised up and then plonked the frame onto it, before I then added the front and back ends ... sounds like a relatively easy operation.
All the best ... Barry
So today, after many many hours ...
1) Took old throttle bodies off and they are jammed solid.
2) Took individual DNA filters off (destroying clamps in the process) and gave them a good wash.
3) Transferred fuel rail/injectors from old to new throttle bodies (was having problems getting the connectors off the injectors).
4) Fitted new throttle cables.
5) Fitted new throttle bodies.
Next on the TODO list ...
1) Fix a broken wire on the injector harness.
2) Wait for filters to dry and then oil them.
3) Wait for new clamps for filters to arrive and then fit filters.
4) Plug in a spare ignition barrel as the current one is solid.
5) Fit battery from K5 to K3 (I think the old K3 battery will be gubbed after 7 years).
6) Turn the engine over by hand a few times.
7) Turn ignition on and look for smoke.
8) Try starting the engine.
Also found a place that'll blast/powder coat the wheels (£60 per wheel) and the frame (around £120) if it's not past it that is (fingers crossed).
All the best ... Barry
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Wednesday, 06 September 2023, 04:44 AMQuote from: hard road on Tuesday, 05 September 2023, 07:58 PMyou can not swap frame numbers (reg numbers) from frame to frame, you would have to buy a frame with a V5. as to lifting engines then the way to go is strip the bike down as much as you can and lay the frame with engine on its side, then you lift the frame off the engine, so much easier, just done the same thing on my current project bike and all by my self. :onya:
Hi, I didn't say anything about swapping frame numbers, it's the registration I'm talking about swapping ... I know you can transfer a private plate to any vehicle, so assumed that this would be no different :)
Taking motor out, yep someone else mentioned that (or I read it in a post) ... I've not done that before, although when I rebuilt the K3 previously I had the engine raised up and then plonked the frame onto it, before I then added the front and back ends ... sounds like a relatively easy operation.
All the best ... Barry
your reg number and VIN number are locked together so can not be transferred from one frame to another, legally.
as to the frame, ive just fitted a Zed1000 frame over a 1200 bandit engine on its side, sooooooo much easier and done on me own :grin:
I ride all year round including on Salted roads in the UK and NONE of my bikes have ever looked like as yours!
At the time of these photos (My old K5) I didnt use ACF50!
But what I DID do was / is to wash off thoroughly after every ride.. And YES I DO use hot water despite the guff about not using on Salt!
I then rinse with a hose.
For rust to get that bad thats says Neglect to me !
Quote from: Speedy1959 on Wednesday, 06 September 2023, 01:58 PMI ride all year round including on Salted roads in the UK and NONE of my bikes have ever looked like as yours!
At the time of these photos (My old K5) I didnt use ACF50!
But what I DID do was / is to wash off thoroughly after every ride.. And YES I DO use hot water despite the guff about not using on Salt!
I then rinse with a hose.
For rust to get that bad thats says Neglect to me !
Neglect sure, but also riding to work every day, it then sitting for eight-ten hours outside, before then riding back home ... that and sitting in a garage for seven years, which although it is dry does get damp during the winter!!
All the best ... Barry
:notworthy: :smitten: :cheers: She's running again after seven years, but only on two cylinders (1/4), which is why it took a bit to start ... don't you just love these engines ... trying to upload video but it's not letting me!
Tried the coil from the K4 and still same outcome ... so will need to have a look at the good old wiring diagrams and see if I can figure out what's going on. The plugs, injectors and coils are all what was on the bike when stored, everything is good for 1/4 so I'm thinking along the lines of a broken wire for 2/3.
Also had a quick check of the PAIR valves on the K4 and they're fine (thnik I've been calling it a K5 DOH!) ... so tomorrow it's try get the K3 running on all four and then get the cam cover off the K4 to see if anything is wrong with the top end.
It's been a very hard day due to the old ticker, but it was worth it :clapping:
All the best ... Barry
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Thursday, 07 September 2023, 02:44 AM:notworthy: :smitten: :cheers: She's running again after seven years, but only on two cylinders (1/4), which is why it took a bit to start ... don't you just love these engines ... trying to upload video but it's not letting me!
Tried the coil from the K4 and still same outcome ... so will need to have a look at the good old wiring diagrams and see if I can figure out what's going on. The plugs, injectors and coils are all what was on the bike when stored, everything is good for 1/4 so I'm thinking along the lines of a broken wire for 2/3.
Also had a quick check of the PAIR valves on the K4 and they're fine (thnik I've been calling it a K5 DOH!) ... so tomorrow it's try get the K3 running on all four and then get the cam cover off the K4 to see if anything is wrong with the top end.
It's been a very hard day due to the old ticker, but it was worth it :clapping:
All the best ... Barry
slow and steady Barry, no rush. I get bolloxed off my Mrs for pushing myself sometimes :rolleyes: just got to take it easy sometimes. :onya:
It's the same trigger etc for both cylinders so it can only be power/earth to that one coil causing the issue. Shouldn't be too much wiring to check back to the ECU & to the earth point.
Any FI light/code? I'd hope you'd get one if the ECU wasn't seeing the coil at all.
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 07 September 2023, 06:33 PMIt's the same trigger etc for both cylinders so it can only be power/earth to that one coil causing the issue. Shouldn't be too much wiring to check back to the ECU & to the earth point.
Any FI light/code? I'd hope you'd get one if the ECU wasn't seeing the coil at all.
First thing I checked this morning was the black wire going to the 2/3 coil ... sure enough broken ... inside the feckin plug :frustrated:
Soooo, thinks to myself, I've got two spare looms around somewhere ... found the first quite easily and did a plug for plug comparison and everything apart from the R/H switchgear plug is the same, K3/K4 is 8 way, K2 is 10 way!
After a lot of checking and getting pissed off by the crap in the Haynes manual, I've figured out the first loom is a K2 and would require I buy another R/H switchgear (lights on/off instead of hazard lights).
Now need to find other loom and see what year it is, if lucky a straight swap, otherwise try and fix current loom (but it's really crappy compared to the two pristine spares).
All the best ... Barry
Somewhere like this place https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/ might be able to do you a new connector for the coil so you could fix your loom. I've heard good things about them on other forums for getting OE connectors.
Quote from: Hooli on Friday, 08 September 2023, 02:00 AMSomewhere like this place https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/ might be able to do you a new connector for the coil so you could fix your loom. I've heard good things about them on other forums for getting OE connectors.
Excellent, will have a look :cheers:
Will have a look for the other loom today ... but as I got up I checked a few boxes and found one with a lot of busa bits in it, including left and right switchgear.
The right switchgear is a match for the K2 with addition of throttle cables ... so could use (minus throttle cables) along with the new loom for now, then buy a K2 unit later (could always make a switch up for hazards) ... would also have a bike where I can switch lights on/off again :clapping:
EDIT: Found the other loom and it's a K2 as well ... so two good condition looms to choose from :cheers:
All the best ... Barry
GOOD NEWS ...
Decided to see if I could get coil connector apart, so snipped it off the loom and went inside to work in comfort ... took me a bit of time wiggling this and that and got it apart ... new wire fitted to connector, put back together and onto the loom.
Ignition on and nothing ... no fuel pump priming, CHECK being displayed ... took me a minute to figure out that I had three connectors unplugged ... all plugged back and and running sweetly on all 4 :notworthy:
So now 20 minutes of idling to get the engine flushed out, then drain that and lovely fresh oil and filter.
BAD NEWS ...
I though the frame could be saved, even though the rear frame was quite badly rusted, until I looked at the bracing tube (just under headstock) from the back just in front of the engine ... there's basically very little of it left ... I poked it with my finger and most of it just crumbled away :frustrated:
WHAT TO DO:
So, I think the engine is the K4 is gubbed (still investigating), if it is then I could put the K3 engine into it at the moment to get back on the road.
I can then get another frame and start rebuilding a new (good) bike using the K3 bits ... engine has been gas flowed, skimmed, PCIII, full akra system, individual air filters, custom yokes, progressive springs ... when it's ready I'll take the engine back out of the K4 and put it into the new frame ... then I can bug another engine for the K4.
OR
Buy a new engine for the K4 and get it back on the road and work away on the new bike until it's done.
At least I have a few options ... as long as I can get 16 header bolts out, 8 of which have not moved in over 7 years!!
All the best ... Barry
If you get a new frame remember K5 onwards is different centre stand mounts. I'm not aware of any other differences.
Not that I think you'll care as having a full Akra you won't have a centre stand fitted anyway.
Quote from: Hooli on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 12:42 PMIf you get a new frame remember K5 onwards is different centre stand mounts. I'm not aware of any other differences.
Not that I think you'll care as having a full Akra you won't have a centre stand fitted anyway.
Oh rub it in ... the lack of a centre stand is a pain in the feckin backside, it's one of the most useful parts of the bike.
But thanks for the heads up ... I think I'll see if it's possible to come up with a stand mod which'll allow it to fit with the Akra system (as both of my 14's have them).
All the best ... Barry
Under your circumstances I'm impressed with how much work you have advanced on the bike(s) already.
I'll be interested to see what you arrive at, although like others I would walk away from that rusty frame :shocked:
Best of luck.
Quote from: Rynglieder on Monday, 11 September 2023, 12:59 AMUnder your circumstances I'm impressed with how much work you have advanced on the bike(s) already.
I'll be interested to see what you arrive at, although like others I would walk away from that rusty frame :shocked:
Best of luck.
It's taken about nine days so far, with a couple of days off and some long/short days, but yes I'm quite chuffed at what I've achieved so far.
I can still do stuff, but takes far longer and the energy drain is nuts, sometimes after undoing a few bolts I have to sit down, but hey at least I'm still around to do it.
Years back I bought a GSXR110 streetfighter with a knackered engine, new engine arrived one day and the bike was back on the road the next. I have a feeling that this'll take me a bit longer, just a bit :lol:
I have an idea for a simple contraption to make taking the engine out simple, none of this having to chock engine up and then lift frame off or lying the bike on its side to lift frame off.
I'll be keeping this thread going to chart my progress or lack of it ... I just wish my first Resurrection thread was still around, it was fantastic to see how the bike started and how it looked after I'd finished.
I'm sure part of that post showed a full 'how to' on disassembling the engine, had pictures and everything ... should still have them somewhere.
With regards the K4, I might take the plugs out and disconnect the injectors to see how it sound just turning over, but I'm sure the big ends are gone ... if I end up swapping engines then I'll take the K4 one apart to find out for sure.
All the best ... Barry
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 05:03 PMQuote from: Hooli on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 12:42 PMIf you get a new frame remember K5 onwards is different centre stand mounts. I'm not aware of any other differences.
Not that I think you'll care as having a full Akra you won't have a centre stand fitted anyway.
Oh rub it in ... the lack of a centre stand is a pain in the feckin backside, it's one of the most useful parts of the bike.
But thanks for the heads up ... I think I'll see if it's possible to come up with a stand mod which'll allow it to fit with the Akra system (as both of my 14's have them).
All the best ... Barry
I'm pretty sure others have found you can fit the centre stand without the springs to work on the bike, it's when you try to retract it that the Akra causes issues. Personally I find the foot pad bit on early centre stands (K5 onwards the pad is further in as no LH pipe) is in the way of my heel when riding so I'd have taken it of mine if I didn't have one either as it came with an Akra.
Quote from: Hooli on Monday, 11 September 2023, 05:35 PMQuote from: BanditsHigh on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 05:03 PMQuote from: Hooli on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 12:42 PMIf you get a new frame remember K5 onwards is different centre stand mounts. I'm not aware of any other differences.
Not that I think you'll care as having a full Akra you won't have a centre stand fitted anyway.
Oh rub it in ... the lack of a centre stand is a pain in the feckin backside, it's one of the most useful parts of the bike.
But thanks for the heads up ... I think I'll see if it's possible to come up with a stand mod which'll allow it to fit with the Akra system (as both of my 14's have them).
All the best ... Barry
I'm pretty sure others have found you can fit the centre stand without the springs to work on the bike, it's when you try to retract it that the Akra causes issues. Personally I find the foot pad bit on early centre stands (K5 onwards the pad is further in as no LH pipe) is in the way of my heel when riding so I'd have taken it of mine if I didn't have one either as it came with an Akra.
Yeah, I have the centrestand for my Bandit, tied to it on a long wire is a bolt that's slim enough to push in by hand just loose. It's a few seconds to fit or remove it in the shed where it's useful, and I don't really use itbor want it when I'm out riding. Works well for me that way.
I have Yoshi 4-1 headers and still have centre stand however with lifter blocks under rear shocks if I want rear tyre off the ground I use a board approx 5cm high under the feet of the centre stand 👍
Thanks for confirming what I was thinking :cheers:
It did look as though I could fit centre stand to use it, but as you say not when riding as the Akra system gets in the way.
Will try it out later today, so much better than swingarm stands.
All the best ... Barry
The saga continues ...
Just got a cat N (my '03 was a cat C) '06 frame with V5 for £450 delivered.
It looks (from the picture) to be in pretty good shape meaning I don't have to spend £120 on getting it blasted/powder coated, not only that but has six months MOT'd left as well saving around £15.
My immediate plan is engine from the K3, use the K3 (or nice K2) loom, then take parts off the K4 to get the new bike on the road ASAP.
I can then start restoring K3 bits and replace the K4 bits when ready or buy replacement parts where required.
I'll need to get some "1LF Pearl Deep Blue" paint as there's a nasty big patch of rust on the front RHS of the tank. I was pretty good with rattle cans in the past so I'm sure I can get the tank back to looking pristine, which makes it faster due to the '03 colours of course :happy1:
Looking forward to having more power again :notworthy:
All the best ... Barry
P.S. Frame arriving between Friday and Monday ... decided this is my belated birthday present to my self (August 30th).
Ok, some real progress ... 8 header bolts removed without too much problem, even after sitting for 7 years and exhaust removed :notworthy:
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-130923011121.jpeg)
Going to buy some thread restoring taps so I can give all threads a good clean.
I've dug out the lift thingy I used before to remove/replace engine, so I think I'll have a go at dismantling the bike to tomorrow :cheers:
All the best ... Barry
Praise be to the exhaust gods ... two sets of header bolts removed without major issue and two exhaust systems removed :notworthy:
Also checked to see how best to insure, swap, cancel etc.
So last years insurance was around £140, all prices are for FC ...
1) Swap from K4 to K6 (formerly K3) ... £111
2) Take out a new policy which mirrors the NCB I have (over 25 years) ... £300
3) Cancel current policy ... £50
Also checked to see what I could get with 0 NCB via GoCompare ...
4) No breakdown cover ... £160
So, it looks like I'd be better off leaving the current insurance running, put the K3 engine into the K4 for now, meaning the least amount of work and cost to get back up and running.
I can then see if the K4 engine can be fixed and if so then put it back into the K4 frame and put the K3 engine to the side for now.
Whatever happens engine wise, I can spend the next six months slowly rebuilding the K3 into the K6 frame and put the K3 engine into it when my current insurance runs out ... then I can insure that bike :boogie2:
Ah the fun ... Barry
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-130923041034.jpeg)
What a hellish two days :frustrated: :frustrated: :frustrated: :frustrated:
1) Will be stripping bottom end of K4 so removed clutch because I couldn't remember whether there was a plate in behind it joining the two lower halves of the engine casings (there isn't).
2) Removed k3/K4 sprockets covers and all the bits behind (including sprockets).
3) Finally got all frame nuts and bolts undone on the K4, apart from two (see below).
So, now ready to take K4 engine out.
I got my bike lift thingy and cut a few bits of wood to act as spacers, five minutes later engine was lifted without issue. At this point I decided to take front end off as I was going along the 'lift frame off engine' route.
I got the nuts off the two rear mounting bolts without a problem (frame to rear of engine) and that's where it all went pear shaped.
They won't rotate or move at all, tried heat, tried a two pound mash hammer to belt them through, nothing ... tried a half inch drive ratchet with a four foot long pry bar ... nothing moved and now the head of the lower bolt has started to round over as the socket went at an angle.
So for the moment I'm stuck and I (probably) have the same to go through with my K3 engine as well.
Only thing I can think of is ...
1) Drill the bolts in the centre so I can snap them in half, then weld a big nut onto each end and hope that the thermal shock is enough to break the bond ... means I'm only trying to break bond on one end at a time, therefore half the amount of force required (maybe).
2) Maybe drill the ends of the bolts about 10mm deep using a drill about 1mm smaller than the diameter of the bolt, hoping this will then allow the weight of the engine to shear the bolt between the frame and the engine, but can only do that with the top bolt as bottom has limited access.
I can access the bottom bolt by putting bike in its side (to split in half), but for the top I'd probably need to destroy the airbox to give me access.
I'd probably still need to get remainder of any bolts out of the engine lugs, but once out of the frame it'd be easier.
Anybody have any other ideas?
All the best ... Barry
P.S. As the K3 frame is knackered I could take an angle grinder (shudder) to it and cut it up to get the engine out. Will probably have the same issue with the bolts but access would be easier.
So after two and a half days I've finally managed to get engine number one out (knackered engine on K4).
Two days just to get the two engine rear mounting bolts out, using lots of heat, lots of WD40, a 1/2" ratchet, a four foot tube to go over the ratchet for extra leverage and finally my air driven impact driver (think this is the third time I've used it).
Undoing the lower bolt I though I'd broken my ratchet as there was a loud crack as I used it and the long tube, but saw a little mark on the bolt I could keep an eye on, next few loud cracks showed that the bolt was moving and fifteen minutes later it was spinning like it had never been stuck.
Upper bolt didn't take very long, thankfully.
Took me a couple of hours faffing about until I finally got the engine out, I'd forgotten how feckin massive it is!! To think I used to be able to lift that from the ground and put it on a bench, but not anymore, it'll be hard enough getting it off the lift!
So, now need to get the K3 engine out and then put it in the K4 frame to get myself back on the road.
After that it's a matter of starting to do up my K3, albeit with a new frame, but it shall live again :notworthy:
All the best ... Barry
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-180923023700-10582231.jpeg)
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-180923023659-10541264.jpeg)
well done Barry :onya:
Tony
Looks like a lot of hard work, glad I've never needed to do that.
Thanks guys :clapping:
The saga continues ...
I started with the rear engine mounting bolts this time, and after the debacle with the first engine it all went pretty smoothly this time, more heat, more WD40, breaker bar and impact driver again.
So just over six hours total (with lots of sitting down and getting energy back), loads of cuppas and that's the K3 basically broken down, it's beginning to look like a breakers :lol:
So, tomorrow I'll strip airbox and any other extraneous bits off the K4 and fit (hopefully) the K3 engine. I'll need to have a look at the PCIII and see if I have a map somewhere and reprogram it.
I should be back on the road in the next couple of days ... that's about three weeks without a bike, it's been hell!
Then the long process of getting the K3 back on the road, albeit with a new frame ... once it's ready I'll put the K3 engine back into the new frame ... hopefully by that time I'll have fixed the K4 engine or bought a new one.
All the best ... Barry
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-190923033040-10591191.jpeg)
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-190923033040-1059743.jpeg)
Hi Barry,
Sounds like you've got your work cut there buddy and I wish I could suggest another solution to your seized in bolts problem. A scorching with heat would be ideal for most situations to break the corrosion bond, but sounds like a blowlamp would do other damage given the location of the bolts and whilst an induction heat tool would target that heat in a specific way rather than scorching the general area, they are not cheap to buy.
Being that you are into the GSX1400 engine internals, can I pick your brain please about something probably straightforward I'd like to do (but obviously not 100% sure), as per my recent posting here "Engine & Gearbox / Balancer shaft query" - https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=3445;area=showposts ?
Rob.
Quote from: Westcraigs on Tuesday, 19 September 2023, 07:34 AMHi Barry,
Sounds like you've got your work cut there buddy and I wish I could suggest another solution to your seized in bolts problem....
Rob.
Didn't you notice I had two engines out of their frames, in other words I got the bolts out, I detailed it above :boogie2:
All the best ... Barry
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Tuesday, 19 September 2023, 05:15 PMQuote from: Westcraigs on Tuesday, 19 September 2023, 07:34 AMHi Barry,
Sounds like you've got your work cut there buddy and I wish I could suggest another solution to your seized in bolts problem....
Rob.
Didn't you notice I had two engines out of their frames, in other words I got the bolts out, I detailed it above :boogie2:
All the best ... Barry
Sorry Barry, didn't notice the update.....bet you're very relieved to get the buggers out!
If you're doing the bottom end work you mentioned, it would be hugely appreciated if you could assist with my query about the balancer shaft locking off device parts please?
Rob
Quote from: Westcraigs on Wednesday, 20 September 2023, 01:44 AMIf you're doing the bottom end work you mentioned, it would be hugely appreciated if you could assist with my query about the balancer shaft locking off device parts please?
Rob
Already commented on your thread, along with many others :cheers:
So wasn't going to do any work today, it's been a very tiring few days and another bad sleep last night ... went back to bed for a few hours midday and when I got back up I though sod it, let's see if I can get the K3 engine into the K4 frame.
But before I could manage the doorbell went ... can you guess what it is :lol:
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-200923042006-1062777.jpeg)
Correct, the new frame for rebuilding my K3 (I have around six months to do it).
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-200923042006-10611042.jpeg)
Anyway, back to the engine ... after a bit of jiggling around I finally managed to get the engine into the K4 ... it only took a couple of hours and most of that was getting the first rear engine mounting bolt in.
Tomorrow, plug everything in, fit throttle bodies and filters (need to go back out and get them to oil tonight), fit exhaust system, fit oil cooler and new filter, fill her up with some lovely fresh oil and maybe see if I can get the PC-III programmed.
So part of my K3 (the engine) will live again tomorrow for the first time in seven years ... looking forward to the extra 25% power :notworthy:
Three weeks without transport is not nice!!
All the best ... Barry
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-200923042010-10632107.jpeg)
well done Barry but don't push yourself !!!! just take it easy.
whats the plan for the new frame, powder coat ?
Quote from: hard road on Wednesday, 20 September 2023, 05:13 AMwell done Barry but don't push yourself !!!! just take it easy.
whats the plan for the new frame, powder coat ?
Not sure, it's in pretty good condition, so could just touch up where required and save myself £120 (for now) ... but not in a rush, so may change my mind later.
I need to watch my money as it's a bit tight, but will be able to get bits and pieces done here and there, cleaning and repairing as much as I can myself ... will be done before I realise it.
Engine wise, when I'm ready to switch it back into the new frame, I can probably get it pretty clean and then give it a light coat of paint to get it looking good again.
The main problem with the engine is those feckin oil drain tubes at the front, they are getting quite rusted and really need replaced, but that's usually a top end off job and around £140 for the two tubes and about the same for the head gasket, so £280 in total.
I'm playing with the idea of buying new tubes and cutting them in half, which means they can be installed with dismantling the top end of the engine, then join them back together again with a rubber tube and clamp. The tubes are purely for draining oil and aren't under any pressure ... it's a scary idea, but I'm also scared about snapping top end bolts!!
It's about 14 years since I last did the K3 up, so it's about time I did it again.
This time I can keep it looking good as I retired myself due to the old ticker problems, so won't be doing 30-40 miles a day all year round. If and when I do go out and it's salty/shitty then I can give it a wash as soon as I get back in, no more sitting outside for ten hours between leaving for work and returning.
Like all you guys I love my 14 and it'll probably last me until I croak it ... again :happy1:
All the best ... Barry
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Wednesday, 20 September 2023, 05:00 AMQuote from: Westcraigs on Wednesday, 20 September 2023, 01:44 AMIf you're doing the bottom end work you mentioned, it would be hugely appreciated if you could assist with my query about the balancer shaft locking off device parts please?
Rob
Already commented on your thread, along with many others :cheers:
Thanks Barry, you've probably at the age of 63 I'm a tad 'unfamiliar' with these website type threads :laugh:
Looks like you've got plenty of rebuild works ahead now, I'll be following out of interest to see the finished article take place.
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Wednesday, 20 September 2023, 05:40 AMQuote from: hard road on Wednesday, 20 September 2023, 05:13 AMwell done Barry but don't push yourself !!!! just take it easy.
whats the plan for the new frame, powder coat ?
Not sure, it's in pretty good condition, so could just touch up where required and save myself £120 (for now) ... but not in a rush, so may change my mind later.
I need to watch my money as it's a bit tight, but will be able to get bits and pieces done here and there, cleaning and repairing as much as I can myself ... will be done before I realise it.
Engine wise, when I'm ready to switch it back into the new frame, I can probably get it pretty clean and then give it a light coat of paint to get it looking good again.
The main problem with the engine is those feckin oil drain tubes at the front, they are getting quite rusted and really need replaced, but that's usually a top end off job and around £140 for the two tubes and about the same for the head gasket, so £280 in total.
I'm playing with the idea of buying new tubes and cutting them in half, which means they can be installed with dismantling the top end of the engine, then join them back together again with a rubber tube and clamp. The tubes are purely for draining oil and aren't under any pressure ... it's a scary idea, but I'm also scared about snapping top end bolts!!
It's about 14 years since I last did the K3 up, so it's about time I did it again.
This time I can keep it looking good as I retired myself due to the old ticker problems, so won't be doing 30-40 miles a day all year round. If and when I do go out and it's salty/shitty then I can give it a wash as soon as I get back in, no more sitting outside for ten hours between leaving for work and returning.
Like all you guys I love my 14 and it'll probably last me until I croak it ... again :happy1:
All the best ... Barry
i don't think cutting the drain tubes is a good idea, once you make the cut then you have shortened them by 1 to 2mm by the blade, then their will be less pressure on the O rings and could leak !!!!! I think the only way is to pull the head, and like the bandit/gsxr engines genuine O rings have to be used as they are an odd size.
Could you cut bad bits out, silver solder new piece in?
Quote from: grog on Wednesday, 20 September 2023, 06:50 PMCould you cut bad bits out, silver solder new piece in?
I see that as a bodge that could go wrong :undecided: theirs no guarantee that it wont leak and drip oil off the front of engine and on to the back tyre !!!! the only way is to replace them with new or good used ones. :onya:
Quote from: hard road on Wednesday, 20 September 2023, 07:56 PMQuote from: grog on Wednesday, 20 September 2023, 06:50 PMCould you cut bad bits out, silver solder new piece in?
I see that as a bodge that could go wrong :undecided: theirs no guarantee that it wont leak and drip oil off the front of engine and on to the back tyre !!!! the only way is to replace them with new or good used ones. :onya:
There are multiple ways of doing it, the 'proper way' at a cost of around £280 or as you and I have suggested.
My method would work without leaks as the rubber tube, used to join the two bits back together, would deform into the small gap left by the saw blade and the clamp would give rigidity back to the assembly.
Anyhoo ... K4 back on the road with the K3 engine and I'd forgotten how good it sounded, it's got a real snarl to it and that's without the PC-III ... 17 glorious miles in the pissing rain, no waterproofs so lower half got soaked and it was awesome :clapping:
Does anyone have a PC-III map for a full Akra system? I also have a gas flowed head but it'd be a good starting point, until I can afford to get it done properly.
Methinks a few days off then have a quick look at the K4 engine. I'm just going to take the sump off and have a look, not wanting to delve any deeper at the moment.
All the best ... Barry
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-210923042920-1064929.jpeg)
happy days Barry, glad its mobile again :onya:
but I still think replacing the oil drain tubes is the way to go, you might get lucky with some good used ones.
Quote from: hard road on Thursday, 21 September 2023, 05:16 AMhappy days Barry, glad its mobile again :onya:
but I still think replacing the oil drain tubes is the way to go, you might get lucky with some good used ones.
Oh I totally agree with you, it's the cost and time/effort to take the engine out, strip top end and rebuild, just to replace two stupid little tubes ... even just the cost of the tubes is ridiculous.
Anyway, that's something to worry about later ... K3 rebuild is the next thing on the agenda :clapping:
All the best ... Barry
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Thursday, 21 September 2023, 05:32 AMQuote from: hard road on Thursday, 21 September 2023, 05:16 AMhappy days Barry, glad its mobile again :onya:
but I still think replacing the oil drain tubes is the way to go, you might get lucky with some good used ones.
Oh I totally agree with you, it's the cost and time/effort to take the engine out, strip top end and rebuild, just to replace two stupid little tubes ... even just the cost of the tubes is ridiculous.
Anyway, that's something to worry about later ... K3 rebuild is the next thing on the agenda :clapping:
All the best ... Barry
another option is to get a pair made from stainless, im pretty sure it would be a lot cheaper than OEM ones.
Maps....
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1TRcNfGeUfReuG_W7VZbpK1eqeuA0PQbU
That should give you access to a folder with the software for a serial PC3 and all the maps that came with it on the CD.
If your PC3 is USB I'm not sure they'll work though. The serial one mapped every 500rpm, the later usb one mapped every 250rpm.
I've got a custom (Grumpy for those that remember him) map on my k2 with Akra and serial pc3. Not sure if it's in that folder or not.
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 21 September 2023, 09:46 AMMaps....
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1TRcNfGeUfReuG_W7VZbpK1eqeuA0PQbU
That should give you access to a folder with the software for a serial PC3 and all the maps that came with it on the CD.
If your PC3 is USB I'm not sure they'll work though. The serial one mapped every 500rpm, the later usb one mapped every 250rpm.
I've got a custom (Grumpy for those that remember him) map on my k2 with Akra and serial pc3. Not sure if it's in that folder or not.
Thanks for trying Hooli, unfortunately you were correct and these maps are for the serial version, which I didn't know existed!!
GOOD NEWS ...
I tried searching already but thought I'd try again and this time found exactly what I was looking for ... https://www.dynojet.com/tunes/310-411/
Needless to say I downloaded every single one of'em :clapping:
MAP DESCRIPTION (ALL UPDATED Nov 27, 2019)
310-000 Zero Map
310-501 European Model, Completely Stock Bike
310-502 European Model with Laser full exhaust and stock or K&N air filter
310-503 European Model with Laser full exhaust, "Hot Cam" Silencer with Db killer installed and stock or K&N air filter
310-504 European Model with Carbon Can Co. slip-ons and link pipes and stock or K&N air filter
310-505 European Model with Scorpion slip-ons and link pipes and stock or K&N air filter
310-506 European Model with Akrapovic full exhaust (ABE silencer) and stock or aftermarket air filter
310-507 European Model with Akrapovic full exhaust (Evolution silencer) and stock or aftermarket air filter
310-508 European Model with Akrapovic full race exhaust and stock or aftermarket air filter
310-509 European Model with G Force slip-ons and stock or aftermarket air filter
310-510 European Model with ART slip-ons and stock or aftermarket air filter
310-511 European Model with Zorstec slip-ons and stock or aftermarket air filter
310-512 European Model with Scorpion slip-ons and link pipes, TTS Cams and stock or aftermarket air filter
310-513 European Model with Akrapovic ECE approved 4:1, Yoshimura Stage 1 Cams and stock or aftermarket air filter
310-514 Asia Model with Yamamoto full exhaust and stock or aftermarket air filter
310-515 European Model with Blue Flame Evo slip-ons, Db killers installed and stock or aftermarket air filter
310-516 German model Akrapovic full system with ECE approved silencer (db Killer installed) BMC air filter with 50mm air intake
310-517 German model-BOS ECE approved silencers, K&N air filter with 53 mm air intake
310-518 European model-Yoshimura full system, Stock or aftermarket filter
310-519 Arata full exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter
310-520 European model Akrapovic full exhaust Yoshimura camshafts Stock or aftermarket air filter
Is there anyway of putting these on the forum for future use?
All the best ... Barry
P.S. Added a link to the "Dynojet PCIII Maps" thread.
I don't think the serial one was about for long, mine was fitted to my bike in about 2002, long before I got it.
At least you found what you need & got sorted.
Wow.....didn't take you long to get the K4 on the road Barry, you certainly don't faff around that's for sure.
BTW I see from your location that we're practically neighbours
Quote from: Westcraigs on Thursday, 21 September 2023, 09:39 PMWow.....didn't take you long to get the K4 on the road Barry, you certainly don't faff around that's for sure.
BTW I see from your location that we're practically neighbours
That's about two weeks ... over two days just to get two bolts out, but got there in the end ... it's the fact that the engine is as sweet as the day I put it off the road seven years ago which I was especially impressed with.
Hagon Nitro 1" over shocks sent away for rebuild today, it'll be interesting to see how they handle the condition they are in.
Had a day off today, but tomorrow I think I'll see how the wheels clean up, if need be I'll put them in to be blasted/powder coated next week.
Big sister lives in Blantyre, I'll PM you and pop over for a visit if you fancy :hat:
All the best ... Barry
You have my respect for getting it running so quickly.
(No doubt not having a bike to ride focuses the mind).
Enjoy your handiwork and stay safe.
Pete.
Quote from: Rynglieder on Friday, 22 September 2023, 12:45 AMYou have my respect for getting it running so quickly.
(No doubt not having a bike to ride focuses the mind).
Enjoy your handiwork and stay safe.
Pete.
That and having to use buses (shudder) ... now onto getting the K3 resurrected and having a look at the K4 engine to figure out how buggered it is.
All the best ... Barry
MEET THE NEIGHBOURQuote from: Westcraigs on Thursday, 21 September 2023, 09:39 PMBTW I see from your location that we're practically neighbours
Met up with Rob ... we're just over a mile apart, great to have another 14 owner nearby, although his is very shiny with a lot of nice mods here and there (some done by himself, respect).
BRAKE CALIPERAlso borrowed a bolt off him, to replace the one which had fallen out of the brake caliper on the way to see him!!!!!! I heard clunking from the front end and thought it was the mudguard, but after a few seconds realised it was too loud ... stopped and one bolt gone and the other half way out!!
I've either missed tightening that side when putting the bike back together or they've worked loose ... never had this happen before!!
SHOCKSHagon Nitro shocks (1" over) sent away for rebuild on Thursday and it'll be interesting to see what they do with them ... I'll post up before/after pics next week at some point.
GARAGEBeen reorganising garage to give myself more room for doing the K3 up, now even have tubs for the K3 bits so I can keep track of them ... will get that finished off today, then probably strip the rest of the bits off the K3.
All the best ... Barry
Geez Barry you're making me feel almost inadequate for not doing anything to my bike.
Your documenting of this endeavour is amazing. I'm really impressed considering your health conditions.
Quote from: GSXKING on Saturday, 23 September 2023, 09:57 PMGeez Barry you're making me feel almost inadequate for not doing anything to my bike.
Your documenting of this endeavour is amazing. I'm really impressed considering your health conditions.
Just one of those things, I get knackered very quickly energy wise, sometimes in as little as ten seconds, but I'm alive and I just take my time, with lots of cuppas and sitting :clapping:
GARAGE AGAINAnother day spent moving stuff around, but well worth it, I can actually get to the back left hand side of the garage again and lots more space
K4 ENGINEWell it's official, at least one of the big end bearings has gone. I took the sump off and was able to get a couple of fingers on #3 big end (oooer) ... there's about 2mm of movement!
MY FAULT?This engine has been a strange one, in all the years I've had the bike the oil pressure light was always going on and off while riding, which made me panic the first few times.
I checked oil level on a regular basis and topped up when necessary, the engine kept running and I put it down to a dodgy oil pressure switch ... might not have been as dodgy as I thought.
WHAT TO DO?Obviously oil starvation has occurred at some point, so big ends could be gone on most of the conrods or it might just be #3 ... there is also the possibility that the main crank bearings are gone as well.
So repairs could run to crank regrind/straightening, conrods bored, new bearings all over and a very very careful check of the oil pump to see if it's a bit dodgy ... all in all that could prove to be a very expensive repair.
Another engine is the simplest and easiest route, with engines on FleaBay in the £800 to £1000 range, which is a lot of money, but the cost of repairs could easily be up in that range.
HAPPYAh well, at least I know what's wrong now ... will read up on stripping bottom end as I've forgotten most of it (last time was about 14 years ago), but I think it's pretty simple ... clutch is already out so that's one less thing to do.
All the best ... Barry
Hmmm, second hand crank with conrods and all bearings for £150 on FleaBay, very tempting.
A full set of crank bearings is around £150, conrod bearings around £125, so £275 straight away ... never mind the cost of possibly repairing the crank/conrods.
Might be worth the money to give it a try, but I'm not sure if I trust this engine anymore, even though it might have been my fault!
At least that's another option.
All the best ... Barry
Bandits, my thoughts only, if you doubt that motor, toss it and get another.Might save you some pain.BTW, your work is amazing, so quick, hard to believe what youve done in no time. :hat:
Quote from: grog on Sunday, 24 September 2023, 05:01 PMBandits, my thoughts only, if you doubt that motor, toss it and get another. Might save you some pain.
We're thinking along the same lines :)
I think I'll see how bad the damage is and then make a decision.
If it's just the crank/conrods/bearings then £150 for the second hand one to sort isn't too much, but the cams are likely to have been damaged as well, not forgetting that the front oil drain tubes need to be replaced as the left one is pissing oil, so another £280 for pipes/head gasket (£430 all in so far).
Suddenly £800 for a straight swap seems like the way to go and I can always break the other engine and sell for spares, thereby reducing the price of the replacement engine.
All the best ... Barry
Out with the old, in with a new/ used. Have done that before with best result.
I'd check the prices of bearings etc before you bin it. I recall that earlier this year pistons were something like 75% off, I guess Suzuki are clearing old slow selling stock out.
Quote from: Hooli on Sunday, 24 September 2023, 06:25 PMI'd check the prices of bearings etc before you bin it. I recall that earlier this year pistons were something like 75% off, I guess Suzuki are clearing old slow selling stock out.
Will do, the prices I quoted were on FleaBay.
GARAGE AGAINSpent most of today moving stuff about and getting rid of a few things and it's amazing how much extra space I have (even though it doesn't look like it), I can even use my workbench again :boogie2:
It's amazing what you find that you've forgotten about ... full set of forks (knackered stanchions), two lower fork legs (one I've polished), top yoke, riders footrests, full exhaust system (think this is the one I had before the Akra), one set of Scorpian cans, one set of Blue Flame Evo cans, a rear wheel spindle, original indicators, light brackets, swingarm and probably other stuff I've forgotten.
I've also got two front wheels and one rear wheel, which have dinks in the rim which need to be sorted.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-250923022520-10652438.jpeg)
PRAISE BE TO COPASLIPFinished off today by removing read spindle/wheel from swingarm, more heat and WD40 soon sorted out the sticky spindle.
Removed all discs from wheels as well and it's as though I put copaslip on and did them yesterday, still fresh as the day I put it on (probably around 14 years ago).
Tomorrow I'll probably get the tyres off and hopefully get them put in for blasting/powder coating some time this week ... will be the week after before I get them back as I need someone to give me a lift.
Hopefully mid-week I'll get my shocks back, I'm hoping they take pity on me and give them a good clean while they're rebuilding them :lol:
All the best ... Barry
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-250923022521-10661704.jpeg)
Just checked Robinsons Foundry, main bearings £30.38 each, conrod bearings £9.40 each ... I think that's for a single bearing (not a set of two) ... so 12 * £30.38 + 8* £9.40 = £439.76
All of a sudden the FleaBay price for bearings (£275) looks very good, but cost of damage to crank/conrods is still to be added!!!
If the crankshaft (on FleaBay) with conrods and all bearings has good bearings for £150 then that's even better, but no guarantee they are.
I think I'm leaning towards another engine, least amount of hassle and can be changed over in a day or so ... just need to find £800 now :clapping:
All the best ... Barry
P.S. With new crank it might need new thrust bearings as well, more money!
the price of rebuilding an engine is crazy !!!!! back in the day it was worth it. I think another engine is the way to go.
Bandits, out of interest, i checked used 14 motors for sale in UK. Nothing pretty, your salty roads sure destroy. Rusty oil pipes, crud built up on front of most.Not a lot to choose from.
Quote from: grog on Monday, 25 September 2023, 06:59 PMBandits, out of interest, i checked used 14 motors for sale in UK. Nothing pretty, your salty roads sure destroy. Rusty oil pipes, crud built up on front of most.Not a lot to choose from.
Oh don't I know it, that's what killed the K3 frame, around seven years of riding all year round to work and back and then seven years sitting at the back of the garage.
Of course you get the people who don't even go out in the rain (most likely) saying that it's a disgrace ... yes it may be, but I'd like to see their bike after 100k miles of riding 60'ish miles per day all year round.
Anyhoo the K3 will live again, albeit in a new frame ... the K3 engine is running sweetly (in the K4), and it'll be on the road 1st February 2024 (when the insurance for the current K4 runs out).
Just realised that's only four months away and just in time for the winter, but I'm not doing many miles these days and I'll be able to wash it whenever I go out :cheers:
All the best ... Barry
the UK weather (and salt) is not good for bikes, I live on a small island and i see cars just rotting away !!!!! when I was younger I rode all year round but now I just ride in the dry or summer months. yeah a fair weather biker :rolleyes:
Quote from: hard road on Tuesday, 26 September 2023, 01:31 AMWhen I was younger I rode all year round but now I just ride in the dry or summer months. yeah a fair weather biker :rolleyes:
Nothing wrong with being a fair weather biker, I only rode throughout the winter due to necessity in that I don't have a car licence, otherwise I'd probably have been the same, not just because of the effects on the bike but because it can be dangerous due to ice/frost.
All the best ... Barry
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Tuesday, 26 September 2023, 01:45 AMQuote from: hard road on Tuesday, 26 September 2023, 01:31 AMWhen I was younger I rode all year round but now I just ride in the dry or summer months. yeah a fair weather biker :rolleyes:
Nothing wrong with being a fair weather biker, I only rode throughout the winter due to necessity in that I don't have a car licence, otherwise I'd probably have been the same, not just because of the effects on the bike but because it can be dangerous due to ice/frost.
All the best ... Barry
I don't do well in the cold at any time but if I had to ride in the rain then fine, its the thought of my bikes getting wet that worries me :embarassed: :grin:
I ride all year round but only in the dry, if it's raining I knock it on the head, if it rains when I'm out I get wet. It's the cleaning afterwards I don't like.
Totally agree,rain riding not a problem, cleaning is. Im fussy, cleaning underneath gets harder each year.
K3 WHEELS
So took the tyres off the wheels today, then the bearings, now they're in for blasting and powder coating ... should get them back in a week.
K3 SHOCKS
Got a call from Hagon asking if I wanted to keep the shocks as they are, I think they are 20mm over ... I did say it might be best to make then stock length and I can use riser blocks if I want the extra length, but that'd require changing the shock body, basically meaning the only original bit left would be the springs and it'd cost more ... I'll hopefully get them back end of week or beginning of next.
K3 STRIPDOWN
Got nearly all of the bits stripped off the frame, with the remaining bits being held on by bolts which are stuck and rounded off ... I'll get them off somehow, even if it means cutting bits of the frame off, it's junk anyway :frustrated:.
K3 YOKES
The yokes/risers are in pretty good nick, there's a little bit of damage to the anodising on the top of the lower yoke due to grit getting under the rubber of the headlight brackets, a little bit of paint will stop that corroding anymore.
The bolts holding the stainless steel blobs for left/right steering lock are stuck at the moment, but I should be able to remove with more heat and WD40.
All the best ... Barry
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-270923040725-10671772.jpeg)
Slowly but surely getting there.
Old shocks ...
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-031023002825-10682500.jpeg)
New shocks ...
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/4136-031023002825-1068332.jpeg)
I'd put them in for a rebuild, but according to Dave at Hagon, this is the first time that they've not been able to get a set of shocks apart ... so what was supposed to be around £200 for a rebuild, ended up with only the old springs being used and costing £100 more!
It's a bit more than I expected, but I've basically got a new set of updated shocks for £100 more than a rebuild and all nice and shiny ... instead of an alloy thumbwheel (corroded by the elements) it now has a hex grub screw to adjust the damping :clapping:
Oh, I also went from 350mm back to standard 330mm, meaning I can either run with standard length shocks or put the riser blocks in for longer length shocks (effectively).
Hopefully get wheels tomorrow and I'll fit new bearings/valves/tyres once I do.
I'd just like to thank Dave at Hagon for a fantastic service, he kept me up-to-date on exactly what was going on and gave me an option of updating to a brand new set of shocks for only a bit more cost
All the best ... Barry