I'm in the process of getting the "easy to remove" fixings on my GSX1400, which were originally bight zinc plated and have since long lost their lustre, replated in bright nickel.
Three parts I'm not sure about removing, are the pinch bolt, securing bolt and clamp which is at the end of the balancer shaft located at the nearside front of the engine (see photo).
Image_20230901201058.jpg
As long as the engine is NOT turned over in any way whilst these three items are removed for plating, I assume the shaft will be secure and thus won't then turn from its current position. If I also punch a couple of dots into the clamp to align with the slot on the end of the shaft to ensure positioning on the splines is maintained after replating is done, is this okay to do or is this something risky to mess around with (in other words don't do it!) please?
Thanking someone with GSX1400 engine internals experience in anticpation of a reply.
I must have missed your intro at the bar.
Should not be an issue as long as you do as you say, mark the original install position.
I have seen a video of these being adjusted when the engine is running. The shaft sits in an eccentric collar, a screwdriver in the slotted end allows you to turn it.
I would say you will be safe to take it off and replate as long as the bike is not run and you put it back together as it was, either pictures or punch marks. I would undo the captive bolt first so if the shaft does move you will tell which direction it went, undoing the pinch bolt first you might miss the direction of rotation.
Mine doesnt vibrate, won't be touching it. Cant see a prob taking those bits off, put back as marked, pen or punch.
Pretty sure the way to set it up is in the workshop manual if you lost it's position.
Having said that, I agree with the others that if you mark it & put it back the same I can't see an issue.
Agree with what everyone has said above, don't see there being an issue if you mark and replace exactly the same (I'd mark where the slot is).
I'm not an engine guru, but to me the worst that can happen is you get some extra vibes.
You could of course leave it in situ, give it a quick wire brush and then a quick coat of spray paint (masking around to prevent overspray).
All the best ... Barry
P.S. Wish that's all I had to do, two engines out, one engine swapped, one engine to dismantle and fix (if possible).
Thanks everyone for the replies and yes I'll proceed with it once the bike is off road for the winter. :grin: :onya:
Quote from: Westcraigs on Wednesday, 20 September 2023, 06:06 AMThanks everyone for the replies and yes I'll proceed with it once the bike is off road for the winter. :grin: :onya:
as everyone has said just mark the position of the slot in the shaft, the balance shaft is gear driven off the crank so can't go any where.
Quote from: Hooli on Monday, 04 September 2023, 09:59 PMPretty sure the way to set it up is in the workshop manual if you lost it's position.
Having said that, I agree with the others that if you mark it & put it back the same I can't see an issue.
An old thread i know, but can anyone point to the section in the manual where the adjustment is described? I've found the removal and assembly part, but nothing on adjustment. Reason being, I adjusted both balance shafts on my BMW on the weekend, snd it has made a noticeable difference. Was thinking of at least checking the same on the 1402.
Looking at the engine assembly instructions, starting at 3-60 I'd doubt there are any adjustment instructions as it's timed using markings inside the crankcase.
Remember this from way back.Loosen clamp bolt, motor running, turn anti until noisy, mark it, turn clockwise until noisy, find midway point and set and clamp it there. Have never done it, no 14 videos but there is a Busa one, assuming similar?The old if it's not broken , why fix it.
Exactly what I'm remember, My BMW has two, one clockwise, the other counter clockwise. Turn until noisy then 1.5 markings back.
Will try the halfway point method and see how the vibrations are.
Looking in the manual section 3-60, it shows on reassembly of the engine, with the engine upside down to lock the arm to the engine casing (10Nm) and then turn the balance shaft clockwise until stop, then to back it off 1.5 to 2.0 graduations (marks on the locking arm) before tightening the lock bolt (10Nm). I will try this on the weekend to see if it makes a difference. Getting some engine vibes that weren't there before.
Eric, can remember old Barmy tip for vibration. Support motor, undo and re torque mounting bolts.
Sounds like a plan too. Noticed yesterday that when i touched the trip meter button there was a lit of vibration. Plus also thr tingling in my hands gave it away. Somethings going on, because its usually silky smooth.
It's shot Eric, dump it & get a Triumph Rocket 3 GT. :whistling: :happy1:
Don't tempt me, I'm considering it tbh. I like the Rocket III
Do they sell the missing half of the swingarm as an accessory for R3s yet?
Or the rear 25% of the bike they forgot to attach too.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 01 May 2026, 01:55 PMIt's shot Eric, dump it & get a Triumph Rocket 3 GT. :whistling: :happy1:
I'd rather get a new BMW to be real honest
R18 im guessing Eric, if your going to have ugly, might as well have ugliest. :laugh:
No, that is truly ugly, even i have standards, however low they may be. I'd have a new GS1300 or one if the current RT's. Fully faired sports tourer
Well the GS13 is a lot better looking than the GS1250 & better sized for normal humans. Mind you that's not a huge bar to pass looks wise.
Quote from: Hooli on Friday, 01 May 2026, 03:07 PMDo they sell the missing half of the swingarm as an accessory for R3s yet?
Or the rear 25% of the bike they forgot to attach too.
TBH they seem to manage quite well with just half a swing arm & as for the 'missing' rear 25%, :confused1: I'm sure your welder neighbour could knock up something appropriate for ya.
I don't reckon she looks too bad at all the way she is.
R3.jpg
I'm just not a fan of single siders, they look wrong to me.
As to the missing 25%, if they fitted it then that silly thing around the rear tyre wouldn't be needed. But it's no surprise I think that as I prefer 14s with the complete mudguard and no undertray too.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Friday, 01 May 2026, 08:06 PMQuote from: Hooli on Friday, 01 May 2026, 03:07 PMDo they sell the missing half of the swingarm as an accessory for R3s yet?
Or the rear 25% of the bike they forgot to attach too.
TBH they seem to manage quite well with just half a swing arm & as for the 'missing' rear 25%, :confused1: I'm sure your welder neighbour could knock up something appropriate for ya.
I don't reckon she looks too bad at all the way she is.
R3.jpg
thats a decent looking cycle. Im a fan of single sided swingarms
Well that was a surprise. Found 5 min between paint coats (painting the house) to have a closer look, after I'd printed out the manual instructions. Marked the position of the balance shaft as found and undid the clamp bolt and the holder bolt, both weren't that tight, but not finger loose either.
With a large flat bladed screwdriver, I went to turn the balance shaft clockwise to stop, expecting to only move a fraction of a turn.
Had to turn a full 1 and a half, closer to 2 full turns before it hit the stop. Then backed it off1.5 markings and redid the bracket bolt and clamp bolt back up to 10Nm.
Haven't had the time to run it yet, but whats very weird is I've never touched that balancer and it was that far out of spec.
Will report back after I take her for a spin.
Have you tried it yet?
Thanks for the reminder, I removed and cleaned up the holder and the bolts last night, re marked the existing graduations on the bracket and cleaned up the shaft. Refitted it using loctite this time (on the bracket holder bolt only) and reset the shaft again, as this time i could see the markings properly. Started it and runs fine. I meant to take the 1402 to work this morning, but didn't organise myself in time. Tomorrow will be the litmus test. Fingers crossed.
OK, so rode the 52km to work today, definitely smoother, and no tingling in the fingers at the end of the ride.
still something else going on,especially under light braking. I suspect some of the floating disc bobbins might be sticking, or one of the pistons in one of the calipers. Will have a closer look on the weekend.
Wheel bearings are relatively new Koyo items, do I don't suspect them.
Here's a photo of the adjusted balance shaft, set 1.5 markings back from full stop and locked down with 10Nm.
20260508_065334.jpg
Forgive my ignorance, but can someone draw on that pic so I can understand where full stop is and where 1.5 is.
Cheers
D.D.
D.D my interpretation is, the red arrow in Eric's case is full stop, 1.5 marks back is the point of 1.5 marks/graduations back from full stop
I think the adjustment of the balance shaft procedure is after loosening the clamp bolt, turn the flat head screw fully clockwise until it will turn no further, then turn the same screw 1.5 mark/graduations stamped on the clamp anti clockwise, hold in place & tighten the clamp retaining bold to 10Nm
The actual full stop & final adjustment positions will differ on each bike, but the procedure is the same
Think i'm correct without looking at the book & hope this helps
Edit: Just checked & I think I was correct other than the final adjustment is 1.5 to 2 marks/graduations
I was looking for the stop mark. but it's just turn until it stops, then use the marks.
As you say....the marks used will be different for every bike. All makes sense now at Dibley towers. :salute:
D.D.
Quote from: Will14 on Saturday, 09 May 2026, 06:18 AMD.D my interpretation is, the red arrow in Eric's case is full stop, 1.5 marks back is the point of 1.5 marks/graduations back from full stop
I think the adjustment of the balance shaft procedure is after loosening the clamp bolt, turn the flat head screw fully clockwise until it will turn no further, then turn the same screw 1.5 mark/graduations stamped on the clamp anti clockwise, hold in place & tighten the clamp retaining bold to 10Nm
The actual full stop & final adjustment positions will differ on each bike, but the procedure is the same
Think i'm correct without looking at the book & hope this helps
Edit: Just checked & I think I was correct other than the final adjustment is 1.5 to 2 marks/graduations
exactly correct.
The manual says 1.5 to 2.0 graduations. When I first did it, the bracket was dirty and I guessed where the marks were. Now that its cleaned up its easier.
On other bikes, its done dynamically, as in the engines running when you make the adjustment. Usually at idle, then turn CW or CCW until resistance and a whistle or whine is heard, THEN back off say 1.5 or 2.0 markings before locking off.
Most balancers are gear driven off the crank and have an eccentric weight on them. The whine is when the gear mesh reaches almost 0 clearance, so backing it off relives that. The eccentric counteracts the inherent imbalance you get from a transverse 4cyl.
My beemer has two balance shafts 1 for 1st order imbalance, created by the pistons moving up and down, the second for second order imbalance from the piston speeds at top of the stroke, plus the fact the engine is nearly laying flat (60deg forward slant). They are adjusted dynamically as per above.
I might try dynamic adjustment on the 1402...
Edit, i just tried the same adjustment whilst engine is running, and its the same as per other bikes. Marked position, and undid the balance shaft clamp bolt whilst engine idling at 1100rpm. Turn clockwise slowly and you get a grumbly grinding sound, and feel some resistance, then wind the shaft back 1.5 markings and lock off. It ended up back at the position I put it in statically (I.e. engine off).
Good to know and that the balance shaft can be adjusted to the same effective position two ways.