Hi Guys and Gals, im looking for the dimensions of the starter clutch, inside diameter/outside diameter and width if anybody has them. trying to source a replacement part.
The bike hasn't been starting-just gives a screech when i hit the button. Also popped into Streetbike(halesowen) for a price they wanted £455 good british pounds, which i think is way too excessive. have been mooching around the net but prices are similar.
Regards :hat:
Paddle, Mick Hone australia has genuine for $335/180 pounds.Even with postage far better than your price.
Sorry, you mean the starter motor? Have you tried to strip it down or spraying some WD40 into it?
Hi guys,
So far, New battery, new starter solenoid, stripped and cleaned the starter(works well when ran from a battery) just getting a screech the bike won't turn over...
most annoying :rolleyes:
Quote from: paddlesat16 on Thursday, 15 June 2023, 03:15 AMHi guys,
So far, New battery, new starter solenoid, stripped and cleaned the starter(works well when ran from a battery) just getting a screech the bike won't turn over...
most annoying :rolleyes:
have you had the geny cover off yet ? your gona have to strip it out and see whats wrong.
Get the stator cover off before you spend money. There's a known issue with some of these bikes that the crankshaft bolt comes loose on the magnet thingy (I forget the name) that the stator sits inside, as the starter works on the outside of that it gives the issue you're seeing.
I think it's K5s that suffer the worst and they always need a new bolt as it never stays tight when reused. It's a rather high torque setting & probably uses up the metals elasticity.
Another Hooli could be right. Someone on here had it happen. Bolt is around $100.
From memory the bolt is tensioned at about 25NM.
The problem is if it does come loose and spins on the taper scouring the shaft and rotor. Common probably from way back in Z1 days and Suzuki copied it in the GS's.
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 15 June 2023, 05:06 PMGet the stator cover off before you spend money. There's a known issue with some of these bikes that the crankshaft bolt comes loose on the magnet thingy (I forget the name) that the stator sits inside, as the starter works on the outside of that it gives the issue you're seeing.
I think it's K5s that suffer the worst and they always need a new bolt as it never stays tight when reused. It's a rather high torque setting & probably uses up the metals elasticity.
From my memory, its more the K7's that had this issue than K5 or K6's, although they are all exactly the same engine so no doubt its all of them! And seemed to manifest itself on many around the 12K miles mark. And absolutely they need a new bolt, re-torquing the old one doesn't last.
Why can't the shaft have a key or tab washer to stop it coming loose, maybe a question for the engineers that developed this system.
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Monday, 19 June 2023, 07:52 AMQuote from: Hooli on Thursday, 15 June 2023, 05:06 PMGet the stator cover off before you spend money. There's a known issue with some of these bikes that the crankshaft bolt comes loose on the magnet thingy (I forget the name) that the stator sits inside, as the starter works on the outside of that it gives the issue you're seeing.
I think it's K5s that suffer the worst and they always need a new bolt as it never stays tight when reused. It's a rather high torque setting & probably uses up the metals elasticity.
From my memory, its more the K7's that had this issue than K5 or K6's, although they are all exactly the same engine so no doubt its all of them! And seemed to manifest itself on many around the 12K miles mark. And absolutely they need a new bolt, re-torquing the old one doesn't last.
just looking at the part numbers, the rotor is the same right through the range so the taper on the crank will be the same, the bolt is the same for 2002 to 2005, but changes for the 2006 to 2007. so that tells me that their could of been an issue with the earlier bikes and upgraded for the 2006 on. just a guess.
Quote from: hard road on Monday, 19 June 2023, 08:36 AMQuote from: gsxbarmy on Monday, 19 June 2023, 07:52 AMQuote from: Hooli on Thursday, 15 June 2023, 05:06 PMGet the stator cover off before you spend money. There's a known issue with some of these bikes that the crankshaft bolt comes loose on the magnet thingy (I forget the name) that the stator sits inside, as the starter works on the outside of that it gives the issue you're seeing.
I think it's K5s that suffer the worst and they always need a new bolt as it never stays tight when reused. It's a rather high torque setting & probably uses up the metals elasticity.
From my memory, its more the K7's that had this issue than K5 or K6's, although they are all exactly the same engine so no doubt its all of them! And seemed to manifest itself on many around the 12K miles mark. And absolutely they need a new bolt, re-torquing the old one doesn't last.
just looking at the part numbers, the rotor is the same right through the range so the taper on the crank will be the same, the bolt is the same for 2002 to 2005, but changes for the 2006 to 2007. so that tells me that their could of been an issue with the earlier bikes and upgraded for the 2006 on. just a guess.
Its possible
@hard road although in over 18 years now of being "involved" with the GSX1400 it only seems to appear as an issue on the later K5-K7 models. I suspect that when they overhauled the general design between the earlier K2-k4 and K5-K7 models is that somewhere in the tooling up for the later models, the whatever-robot-they-used to torque the nut up may have been incorrectly programmed.
Still worth a check - or even a replacement whatever model 14 you may have - to make sure you know its correctly done up.
Early signs of it coming loose generally is loss of charging - later signs can be the nut working its way through the casing :shocked:
I would be interested to know why Suzuki changed the bolt on the K6-K7 bikes ? did they have an issue on the earlier bikes with it or did the problem start after they changed it :whatever: Suzuki are well known for their parts interchangeability and don't change things for no reason (like Honda) the shop I worked at didn't sell a lot of 14's and we never had any problems other than the corrosion thing :rolleyes: but I left the shop it 2008 so they where still pretty new.
Quote from: Irish in Oz on Thursday, 15 June 2023, 10:38 PMFrom memory the bolt is tensioned at about 25NM.
The problem is if it does come loose and spins on the taper scouring the shaft and rotor. Common probably from way back in Z1 days and Suzuki copied it in the GS's.
that seems pretty low ? haven't got a manual yet but my factory 1200 bandit manual says 150 N-M plus its very rare for the rotor to come off the taper, they get that tight it takes a lot of force to break them free from the crank. ive seen guys fuck their crank end getting them off.
Quote from: Irish in Oz on Thursday, 15 June 2023, 10:38 PMFrom memory the bolt is tensioned at about 25NM.
The problem is if it does come loose and spins on the taper scouring the shaft and rotor. Common probably from way back in Z1 days and Suzuki copied it in the GS's.
I'm afraid that I have to disagree
@Irish in Oz - torque is 160Nm
(See "Electrical System" in the first part of this thread https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=223.0 )
Quote from: hard road on Monday, 19 June 2023, 10:40 PMQuote from: Irish in Oz on Thursday, 15 June 2023, 10:38 PMFrom memory the bolt is tensioned at about 25NM.
The problem is if it does come loose and spins on the taper scouring the shaft and rotor. Common probably from way back in Z1 days and Suzuki copied it in the GS's.
that seems pretty low ? haven't got a manual yet but my factory 1200 bandit manual says 150 N-M plus its very rare for the rotor to come off the taper, they get that tight it takes a lot of force to break them free from the crank. ive seen guys fuck their crank end getting them off.
Absolutely correct
@hard road torque is 160Nm for "that bolt"
[/quote]
I'm afraid that I have to disagree
@Irish in Oz - torque is 160Nm
(See "Electrical System" in the first part of this thread https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=223.0 )
[/quote]
I should have checked the manual, did for the wheel nut and three of them so far say sprocket side.
Quote from: Irish in Oz on Tuesday, 20 June 2023, 07:23 PMdid for the wheel nut and three of them so far say sprocket side.
let it go mate :rolleyes: tell you what, if/when I take the wheels out I'll put the spindles in from the right ;)
Hi guys, sorry for my disapearance, the joys of being a wagon driver.
I will get the Generator cover off and have a mooch into what is going on.
Thanks for the suggestions :notworthy:
Note, going to sunny Mexico for a couple of weeks vacation from 24 June, I will be on it when I get back.
:notworthy: Greetings members of the forum,
It definately was the loose bolt holding the genny assembly together. A quick double click of the torque wrench with some high strength thread lock applied for good measure, had the bike turning over like it and starting.
Thanks for all your input guys muchos gracias
Quote from: paddlesat16 on Monday, 18 March 2024, 03:22 AM:notworthy: Greetings members of the forum,
It definately was the loose bolt holding the genny assembly together. A quick double click of the torque wrench with some high strength thread lock applied for good measure, had the bike turning over like it and starting.
Thanks for all your input guys muchos gracias
@paddlesat16 - Be warned, that may only be a temp fix. When I had it happen on my K7, I did exactly what you did, and it lasted about 1,000 miles before it came loose again. What I found out then was that the bolt is a one time use bolt and (potentially) stretches, so I bought a new bolt, added some loctite and never had an issue again. So in all honesty, I would highly recommend getting a new bolt and fitting it with some loctite.
Whats the torque spec and size of the bolt? Sometimes the torque value includes an amount to take it past the plastic zone and into deformation (i.e. yield territory) but most often its a torque value plus an angle (say 90deg) for a single use bolt. The torque is to seat it properly, the angular rotation provides the load to hold it together.
I would also play it safe and get a new bolt and tighten to specification.