Pretty sure I got a faulty unit, everytime I take the bike out I get an F1 code on the dash. As soon as I turn the bike off and back on again the code is cleared. It was starting to do it when I pulled up and took off again. I started the bike up this morning to go for a ride and before I left the driveway it came on again. It doesn't come on when I first start the bike. Anyway I decided to unplug it and join the original connectors together and see what happens. I went for a 30 minute ride and no F1 light. I stopped and had a coffee and then went home again. Still no F1 fault which tells me it must be the unit itself playing up. I must be 1 of they very few that has had issues with these things. ☹️
Remember the ecu on these bikes do not store fault codes, as soon as you cycle the ignition, the code clears. Best best is to have your spare key and a paperclip with you when you go for a ride, as then with the ignition still on or bike still running when you get the FI light, you can remove the seat and bridge the paperclip across the two pins in the white connector next to the battery, this will show you in the dash the error code starting with a letter and two numbers. The manual has a table of all the codes and their potential cause.
That sure is bad luck Stevel. Get on to them about it. You buy it locally/ Oz i mean?
I had the same fault occur with a Gipro gear indicator and ATR-E. It was fine until I stripped and rebuilt the bike and from then on it would throw up the F1 fault C31. In the end I binned it and never had any more problems.
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=884.msg9619#msg9619
Thanks for the replies, yes did buy it in Australia and have sent them an email. He returned email and asked if I have standard ecu (I do) and to check for bent pins in the connectors. I have also done that and they look fine. It is handy having the gear indicator so would like to get it sorted if possible. The bike is going in for a full service in a few weeks and he said he would check it out if not resolved. If I can't get it sorted I will get the 4 degree cog instead.
Youll get it sorted, dont give up. You dont need extra degrees on top two gears, just my opinion. You paid, just tell them its not working, they hate bad reviews. Lots of us on here that can give reports on bad service if they dont come good. I feel bad as i recod this, mine never been a prob in so many years. Mate fitted same to Rocket, made amazing diff, stopped all over run popping, far better lower gears. Give them heaps.
All good grog lots of people have them without issues I just got unlucky I suppose. I'll see what he comes back with. He was the only place in Australia to buy them now, Superbike Supply no longer deals in them and is selling his remaining stock cheap.
Quote from: grog on Saturday, 10 September 2022, 06:10 PM
Youll get it sorted, dont give up. You dont need extra degrees on top two gears, just my opinion. You paid, just tell them its not working, they hate bad reviews. Lots of us on here that can give reports on bad service if they dont come good. I feel bad as i recod this, mine never been a prob in so many years. Mate fitted same to Rocket, made amazing diff, stopped all over run popping, far better lower gears. Give them heaps.
just an update, Mototrack Accessories have sent out a replacement unit today, fingers crossed it was the unit that is faulty. Should get it in a few days and will swap it over on the weekend. If it still comes up with the F1 fault light then I know the bike must have the problem. 🤞
Okay need some info from those with more knowledge than me. I got a replacement unit and it's still doing it, but not as much. The only 2 things I can come up with is a fault gear position sensor or maybe an earth issue. I didn't get to go anywhere this weekend to buy more negative wire to run direct to the engine, but I did do one from the battery to the frame. The only reason I'm thinking this is because it only did it the once just now, before it came on sooner. Also it (F1 light) seems to only come on if I'm sitting idling for a few minutes. Anyone got any other ideas as to why it's happening, cheers Steve.
Sorry Mate, really no clues. I have one, works fine, thats the limit of my knowledge on them. Maybe message them at headquarters. Such a PIA for you.
He told me last time if it wasn't bent pins then there is more likely a faulty unit or an issue with my bike. After 2 units I'm thinking it's my bike. I'll try the other earth and if that doesn't work it's going in for a service at the end of the month. He said he will scan the bike to see if any issues are logged.
Note that you need to be able to reproduce the error code as the ecu doesn't store codes
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Sunday, 18 September 2022, 05:55 PM
Note that you need to be able to reproduce the error code as the ecu doesn't store codes
Thanks Eric, it happens everytime the bike goes out so that shouldn't be an issue. He can just leave it idling for a while and it will happen. Doesn't happy when the bike is moving.
@Stevel3 Did you clean the GPS contact surfaces? Perhaps the wiring connectors also need some contact spray.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/3374-180922191912.jpeg)
Thanks Tim no I haven't, I haven't even looked for it. Is it hard to get to
quote author=Tim1954 link=topic=7094.msg94267#msg94267 date=1663492968]
@Stevel3 Did you clean the GPS contact surfaces? Perhaps the wiring connectors also need some contact spray.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/1/3374-180922191912.jpeg)
[/quote]
@Stevel3 Remove the plastic sprocket cover. Below the clutch slave cylinder you can find the GPS. See service manual page 3-18 topmost figure, the GPS is the white thing, although it probably is not white in your bike but covered with dirty chain grease. Clean it first from outside with WD-40 or similar. Open the two allen bolts and carefully remove the GPS so that you don't lose the little parts, see the figure at the bottom of the same page. Check also that the o-ring is in place around the GPS. Clean the contact surfaces with sandpaper and reinstall the GPS.
@Stevel3 It just came to my mind that you had some earthing problems. See
@seth 's old post about that
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=4537.msg59380#msg59380
Could bad earthing have ruined the GPS or its wiring?
You can perform a check for the GPS by measuring the voltage between the pink wire and earth within each gear. There must be a sufficient voltage of min. 0.6 V (except for neutral it's 0.0) according to the manual but IMO it also has to be different for each gear. Unfortunately I don't have a change at the moment to check it.
Thats all good thinking Tim, you could be right about gps. 👍
@Stevel3 When my Healtech gave false indication cleaning the contact surfaces of the GPS helped. I also measured the voltages both before and after and I noticed some change. So I suggest that you clean the GPS first and if it does not help, check the voltages.
Thanks Tim you've given me some great info there.
I was just told by the mechanic that it's drawing to much current which is why it keeps throwing the F1 fault light. He said he has spent a fair bit of time on it with a multi meter and that is what he found to be the problem. He doesn't seem to think there is a way around it. He did some research on the Web and it happens to these and other brands as well apparently . Anyone got any suggestions or should I admit defeat and take it off. Also this is the 2nd unit so must be something in my bike.
To me that means your generator and / or rectifier ( that converts the AC from the generator to DC) is faulty, not the healtech gear indicator.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Thursday, 06 October 2022, 01:31 PM
To me that means your generator and / or rectifier ( that converts the AC from the generator to DC) is faulty, not the healthcare indicator.
Yeah I very much doubt it is the Healtech unit as it's the 2nd one. I asked the mechanic and he reckons everything is testing up as it should.
Drawing too much current . . . . maybe check your wiring (on that circuit) for a possible short / leakage to earth, probably doesn't need to be very much out to throw the thing. We're talking partial volts after all.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Thursday, 06 October 2022, 02:35 PM
Drawing too much current . . . . maybe check your wiring (on that circuit) for a possible short / leakage to earth, probably doesn't need to be very much out to throw the thing. We're talking partial volts after all.
He reckons he checked it with a multi meter with it connected and said it was drawing more current. When he disconnected the unit it was in spec. Would adding an extra earth help at all, I know I'm clutching at straws.
Quote from: Stevel3 on Thursday, 06 October 2022, 03:03 PM
Quote from: KiwiCol on Thursday, 06 October 2022, 02:35 PM
Drawing too much current . . . . maybe check your wiring (on that circuit) for a possible short / leakage to earth, probably doesn't need to be very much out to throw the thing. We're talking partial volts after all.
He reckons he checked it with a multi meter with it connected and said it was drawing more current. When he disconnected the unit it was in spec. Would adding an extra earth help at all, I know I'm clutching at straws.
Well, to me that shows it's most probably something on your wiring (on that circuit) that's not insulated proper & is causing that 'leak'. I think from memory you removed the unit by the clutch slave? yeah? Well, if you did, I'd be checking that area as the most likely culprit, then the plug itself where the new unit plugs into. Something is allowing more current to flow when you plug it in, so, check the plugs & what they plug into.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Thursday, 06 October 2022, 04:37 PM
Quote from: Stevel3 on Thursday, 06 October 2022, 03:03 PM
Quote from: KiwiCol on Thursday, 06 October 2022, 02:35 PM
Drawing too much current . . . . maybe check your wiring (on that circuit) for a possible short / leakage to earth, probably doesn't need to be very much out to throw the thing. We're talking partial volts after all.
He reckons he checked it with a multi meter with it connected and said it was drawing more current. When he disconnected the unit it was in spec. Would adding an extra earth help at all, I know I'm clutching at straws.
Well, to me that shows it's most probably something on your wiring (on that circuit) that's not insulated proper & is causing that 'leak'. I think from memory you removed the unit by the clutch slave? yeah? Well, if you did, I'd be checking that area as the most likely culprit, then the plug itself where the new unit plugs into. Something is allowing more current to flow when you plug it in, so, check the plugs & what they plug into.
Cheers mate, I have just unplugged it for now. Maybe later when I don't have the shits with it I will have another look lol. I installed it the way Healtech say to do it so yes I'm thinking there is a small issue somewhere, maybe around the black connector where it gets it's power from.
I'd check the earths, including the ones for the engine block. A poor earth results in a higher current flow as it tends to drop the voltage.
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 06 October 2022, 09:42 PM
I'd check the earths, including the ones for the engine block. A poor earth results in a higher current flow as it tends to drop the voltage.
I did ask him to,check the earth and he reckons it's good. I'll get some more wire and do a second earth to the engine.
Such a stuff around Mate, wish i had an answer for you. Mine and Mates been faultless for long time, just checked, 6 yrs.
Quote from: grog on Friday, 07 October 2022, 07:14 PM
Such a stuff around Mate, wish i had an answer for you. Mine and Mates been faultless for long time, just checked, 6 yrs.
Yeah but I'm not the only one, they seem to be a bit hit and miss from what I've read. Also other brands can play up as well. You wouldn't think the old technology in our bikes would be so sensitive. I'll try another earth wire to the engine and have a look at the wires around the black connector where it gets it's power from. If neither works I'll give up and remove it and just get an a sprocket.
The old technology in our bikes tends to be more sensitive than modern stuff.
Most sensors on a 14 rely on the returning voltage on the signal wire to give the ECU information. So it's sensitive to input voltage etc. More modern stuff returns a digital signal which is more reliable.
Thinking further on your issue, I'd check the ECU connection is clean and dry as well as the other bits mentioned.
Quote from: Hooli on Saturday, 08 October 2022, 07:56 AM
The old technology in our bikes tends to be more sensitive than modern stuff.
Most sensors on a 14 rely on the returning voltage on the signal wire to give the ECU information. So it's sensitive to input voltage etc. More modern stuff returns a digital signal which is more reliable.
Thinking further on your issue, I'd check the ECU connection is clean and dry as well as the other bits mentioned.
Thanks Hoolie 👍
Just a thought from left field Steve, have you checked the battery is charged and able to store charge properly? A failing battery can cause all sorts of gremlins, especially if only able to hold a surface charge, enough to crank and start the bike etc, but if not able to hold charge, then any voltage fluctuations will be highlighted.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Saturday, 08 October 2022, 11:18 AM
Just a thought from left field Steve, have you checked the battery is charged and able to store charge properly? A failing battery can cause all sorts of gremlins, especially if only able to hold a surface charge, enough to crank and start the bike etc, but if not able to hold charge, then any voltage fluctuations will be highlighted.
It is a lithium batter and the mechanic told me it was in perfect condition. I had a look at a few things this morning. First up I made an extra earth and ran it to the engine. I also checked the black connector where it gets it's power from. I also unplugged and replaced in the ecu connectors. Everything seemed to be as it should. The next thing I thought about was the trickle charger. When it's on I was getting a small tingle when touching the exhaust. Mainly only felt it with the fleshy bit of my forearm. I had another unit here so decided to swap it over while I was doing stuff near the battery. What I did find was that the wires from the battery to the connector had been extended. When I went to pull the wires back thru the frame to remove it came apart. With the new trickle charger on I can't feel the tingle anymore. I haven't ridden the bike yet but I started it up and let it idle for about 10 minutes and no F1 light. It would've come on before after a few minutes. I turned it off for 5 minutes and then ran it for 10 minutes again and still no F1 light. I'm going for a ride tomorrow so fingers crossed it might be fixed. 🤞
Reckon that's sorted it for you mate
Fingers Crossed.
Grrrr still happened bugger. Process of elimination, it didnt do it when on the centre stand, when I took it off the centre stand to take it for a quick ride it came on straight away again. I turned it off and restarted and it still happened. I had to get fuel and was thinking/cursing on the way to the servo. I pulled up to get fuel and played with the sidestand switch before starting up and presto no F1 light. Maybe it's got a sticking switch and isn't releasing properly and still drawing a bit of current. Maybe that and the Healtech unit both going might be enough to drag the volts down a bit. I just did a 20 minute ride and it stayed off. See how it goes but maybe I need a new sidestand switch. Certainly didn't hurt doing the other stuff anyway.
Give it a good spray, contact cleaner then some Inox or Lanox. Maybe do clutch switch as well, only when you ride, both those not in play on centrestand. Just a thought.
Quote from: grog on Saturday, 08 October 2022, 05:43 PM
Give it a good spray, contact cleaner then some Inox or Lanox.
I'm hopeful this might have been the issue. It didn't do it when I started up again or on the ride home. It did feel sticky like it might have chain lube on it. Just gave it a good clean with inbox and put some more on to soak in a bit. Weather permitting I'm going for a ride in the morning so I'll see if it happens again.🤞
A lot of road grime gets caught in the side or centre stand switches. Another one is the clutch micro switch.
Is there a centrestand switch?
Not that I know of..
I have started mine many times on the centre stand and even had it in Gera running on tickover..
Yeah, yeah I know I shouldnt....
But I did ! :stir:
Inox MX4, keeps the crap out, millions of house, car uses.
Quote from: grog on Saturday, 08 October 2022, 06:29 PM
Inox MX4, keeps the crap out, millions of house, car uses.
Is that the one in lanolin, if so I have that one as well as the standard inox. I didn't know there was a centre stand switch either and yes I have run the bike thru the gears on the centre stand to test the gear indicator.
MX4 is the lanolin type, great protection. Locks, switches, garden gates, even superb on my golf shafts. :lol:
There is no centre stand switch.
Sorry, I only have a side stand and I assumed that if you have a centre stand this uses the same switch.....
I should not assume too much me thinks...
I often assume, then my Wife speaks the truth. 🤣😂🤣
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Saturday, 08 October 2022, 07:03 PM
Sorry, I only have a side stand and I assumed that if you have a centre stand this uses the same switch.....
I should not assume too much me thinks...
Assumption is the mother of all fcuk ups :imrgreen: :onya: :onya:
See my signature below ;)
@Stevel3 if it was ok on the main stand until you took it off, then I wonder whether you may have a wire that's rubbed through around the headstock area. What I would suggest is put on the mainstand, if ok, then just jiggle the wires around the headstock or turn the bars lock to lock a few times to see if that makes anything happen. Can also sometimes get slight rub throughs where the loom exits the headlamp shell.
Also check where the battery negative connects to the frame - sometimes that can corrode up a bit
Somewhere something is slightly earthing that shouldn't be I suspect, not enough to blow a fuse but to cause your problems.
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Monday, 10 October 2022, 03:04 AM
@Stevel3 if it was ok on the main stand until you took it off, then I wonder whether you may have a wire that's rubbed through around the headstock area. What I would suggest is put on the mainstand, if ok, then just jiggle the wires around the headstock or turn the bars lock to lock a few times to see if that makes anything happen. Can also sometimes get slight rub throughs where the loom exits the headlamp shell.
Also check where the battery negative connects to the frame - sometimes that can corrode up a bit
Somewhere something is slightly earthing that shouldn't be I suspect, not enough to blow a fuse but to cause your problems.
Yeah I think it is something minor causing it. It did it to me once yesterday morning while idling/warming up. I turned it off and wiggled the sidestand switch again and it didn't happen again yesterday. We went for about a 30 minute ride and had brekkie. We were stopped for over an hour and it was fine on start up and the ride home. If it happens again I'll have a look around the headlight area as I've had it off a couple of times. Can't remember why the first time but last weekend I had a fitted a brighter headlight bulb.
Well I think Mr Barmy might've been right. I had some higher handlebar mounts and wanted to see how they felt. Being taller I had to pull on the wiring to get it long enough for the bars to fit. Anyway as soon as I put everything back together the F1 light came on straight away. It took a few off on start ups to get rid of it. The bars didn't feel right being that high so I put it back to how it was. I then pulled the headlight out and looked for any obvious problems. I couldn't see any so I unplugged and re plugged every connector and made sure there was no tightness in the wiring. This afternoon I went for a ride and didn't get the F1 light at all. Finger's crossed it might be sorted. Also now there is no tingling thru the bike when on the trickle charger.
Quote from: Stevel3 on Sunday, 23 October 2022, 06:42 PM
Well I think Mr Barmy might've been right. I had some higher handlebar mounts and wanted to see how they felt. Being taller I had to pull on the wiring to get it long enough for the bars to fit. Anyway as soon as I put everything back together the F1 light came on straight away. It took a few off on start ups to get rid of it. The bars didn't feel right being that high so I put it back to how it was. I then pulled the headlight out and looked for any obvious problems. I couldn't see any so I unplugged and re plugged every connector and made sure there was no tightness in the wiring. This afternoon I went for a ride and didn't get the F1 light at all. Finger's crossed it might be sorted. Also now there is no tingling thru the bike when on the trickle charger.
Sounding hopeful - fingers crossed!
Glad sorted