Hi all
I have recently ballanced throttle bodies, adjusted and set TPS & STPS, had injectors cleaned, fitted a new HP fuel filter & tea bag filter, tested flow from fuel pump, removed PAIRS and replaced fuel pump unit with a good spare unit that I have, my bike now starts from cold with no issues when the cold start system is required, the bike is running good other than a bit of a hesitation now and again which could just be me trying to give it a handfull in to high a gear
The issue I am having (and was befor the above work was done) is that when the cold start is not needed either from the first start before riding in the morning or after being run for a couple of hours and parked up for say half an hour the bike starts but idles low and rough at around 1000rpm, if I ride for a few minutes and stop at a junction the idle speed has settled again at 1100 RPM. When I first noticed this I increased the idle speed up to around 11/1200 RPM and though all would seem OK the issue then is after riding and pulling up the idle speed is incresed to around 1500 RPM so I have to back it off again
Has or does anyone else's bike do this and have you managed to cure the problem, or does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on possible causes please?
Thanks
Pete
Worth double checking your fuel/air mix - it maybe a bit lean, or/and check all your intake rubbers. Not had this problem myself, but both the aforementioned are worth another check. Good luck with it :cheers:
Quote from: DP1400 on Wednesday, 21 July 2021, 04:57 AM
Worth double checking your fuel/air mix - it maybe a bit lean, or/and check all your intake rubbers. Not had this problem myself, but both the aforementioned are worth another check. Good luck with it :cheers:
Thanks for the suggestions, I will have another check tomorrow but bike was on a Dyno a couple of weeks ago so running a custom map, have also adjusted the throttle cables this evening so will see if that makes a difference. Next step may be to disconnect the power commander although the issue was there before fitting and getting it mapped. The bike is rideable just need to give it some extra revs after being parked up or she wants to stall out :furious: which raises eye brows with the Delkavic cans
Seems to me the secondary actuator may be sticking. Mine has the issue if starting from cold, the actuator takes over and increases idle to 2500rpm and then slowly drops as the engine warms up, but if I blip the throttle during that stage I get the FI light and the C28 code.
Fixed this by fine tuning the STPS across both sets of throttle bodies, and also adjusting the fast idle screw after balancing the throttle bodies.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Wednesday, 21 July 2021, 03:07 PM
Seems to me the secondary actuator may be sticking. Mine has the issue if starting from cold, the actuator takes over and increases idle to 2500rpm and then slowly drops as the engine warms up, but if I blip the throttle during that stage I get the FI light and the C28 code.
Fixed this by fine tuning the STPS across both sets of throttle bodies, and also adjusting the fast idle screw after balancing the throttle bodies.
"
Fixed this by fine tuning the STPS across both sets of throttle bodies"
Hi Eric
Could you let me know how did this please? any different to the standard procedure of setting the correct resistance for the TPS & STPS as detailed in other threads on here?
Thanks
Pete...
Well I think that I may have sorted the problem, fingers crossed
I was suspecting that one or both of the coils were at fault so I purchased two from Mrg which arrived the day after they were posted (many thanks
@Mrg ) today I checked the resistance values on my original coils and the two replacements and all of the readings were almost identical so I delayed swapping them around, however on testing the coil for cylinders 1 & 4 I found that the No 1 plug cap was very loose on the lead so decided to trim all four leads slightly & refitted the caps, No1 was that loose it surprised my that I didnt have more of a missfire
I also removed all of the plugs to check the condition & gaps as the tank was off, all gaps were OK and the plugs were the same light brown colour, however I noticed that No2 plug appeared to have a hairline crack in the ceramic & when checking the resistance value of this plug it was way off from the other three so it was replaced with one that had been removed a couple of months ago
While I didn't take the bike out for a run, when started the tone of the bike seemed much different in that it was a lot crisper and smoother, I let the bike idle until hot and the fan kicked in, switched off for 20 minutes and restarted to find that the idle speed was straight up to normal idle at 1200 RPM with no rough running - fingers crossed for some sunshine tomorrow so I can do a better road test but initial signs are problem solved :onya:
Quote from: Will14 on Thursday, 22 July 2021, 07:38 AM
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Wednesday, 21 July 2021, 03:07 PM
Seems to me the secondary actuator may be sticking. Mine has the issue if starting from cold, the actuator takes over and increases idle to 2500rpm and then slowly drops as the engine warms up, but if I blip the throttle during that stage I get the FI light and the C28 code.
Fixed this by fine tuning the STPS across both sets of throttle bodies, and also adjusting the fast idle screw after balancing the throttle bodies.
"Fixed this by fine tuning the STPS across both sets of throttle bodies"
Hi Eric
Could you let me know how did this please? any different to the standard procedure of setting the correct resistance for the TPS & STPS as detailed in other threads on here?
Thanks
Pete...
Sorry Will14 , I couldn't find this post where you has asked. What I found is because the secondaries are also grouped in two (1+2) and (3+4) cylinders and connected via a spring loaded connection, that while checking the STPS I found that there was play in the other set, so I had to adjust the spring loaded connection so that they were operating at the same time, I tested this by manually opening the set opposite the STPS and checking that I read the same voltage as when opening the set which the STPS reads from. Then I adjusted the fast idle to get 2000rpm when cold, it then drops down to 1100rpm when warmed up and no more FI C28 errors.
Quote from: Will14 on Thursday, 22 July 2021, 07:38 AM
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Wednesday, 21 July 2021, 03:07 PM
Seems to me the secondary actuator may be sticking. Mine has the issue if starting from cold, the actuator takes over and increases idle to 2500rpm and then slowly drops as the engine warms up, but if I blip the throttle during that stage I get the FI light and the C28 code.
Fixed this by fine tuning the STPS across both sets of throttle bodies, and also adjusting the fast idle screw after balancing the throttle bodies.
"Fixed this by fine tuning the STPS across both sets of throttle bodies"
Hi Eric
Could you let me know how did this please? any different to the standard procedure of setting the correct resistance for the TPS & STPS as detailed in other threads on here?
Thanks
Pete...
@Will14 scroll down Page 5 of this thread, and about half way down you will find the entry where the TPS and STPS was checked https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=263.60
@Eric GSX1400K3 thanks a lot for that information, after reading all the threads again it's pretty much what I had done, just my interpretation was slightly different
@gsxbarmy thanks Dave appreciate the input and assistance
As above I hope that I have cracked it now, all being well I will be able to get out for a run over the next few days so fingers crossed all is still good, in the past I have have had other things all good under workshop conditions which can then change slightly under normal riding conditions
Cheers
Pete
Youll be right now Mate. Job well done.