HI all.
Last summer I posted a rant about the service done to my 14. Long story cut really sort, bike went for fine tunning and came back jerking at low revs. The shop decided to install a 16 front sprocket to "fix" the problem, it didn't. So here is what I did.
I changed the chain which was rusty and old.
Tunned carbs with CarbtunePro, which was a lot of fun!
And still the bike was jerking while coasting from 2000rpm down to 1500rpm which is very annoying.
Reading the manual, I noticed that the plugs did not match with the ones on the receipt ngk CR8E. But actually the plugs installed were denso u24 esr-n, which are the same as CR8E, not the right plug.
So I ordered some 4 Denso U24ETR
Bike does not jerk violently anymore.
There is still room for improvement with the carbtunepro I guess.
I have now reinstalled the propper front sprocket 18. 16 is a lot of fun actually, and is ideal for urban use, but on the motorway does not work so well. It still goes like hell.
Damn mechanics...I only trust myself from now on.
Cheers
Hmmmm, changing the rusty old chain would have been first on the list at the shop I'd of thought, not putting a 16T front on it! I dunno about those plugs, I'd stick with the factory recommended ones myself. You're just balancing the throttle bodies (I hope) with the CarbtunePro, not adjusting the linkages & connections. A multimeter on the TPS to check it's adjusted correctly too.
Once you have new plugs, new sprockets & chain, balanced T/B's and good fuel, they're pretty much sorted as a rule.
I agree with
@KiwiCol Knackered chain ECT would be first thing to go.
16 front is check the front if the swingarm as it'll have been rubbing the big rubber buffer away and may be even gone through it.
If your having problems I'd fit standard plugs like everyone else so you know it's not being different causing your problems .
As says
@KiwiCol check the to's and stps .
Before you balance the throttle bodies.
Think
@Andre Did a write up on how to do them.
Good luck
There is a process to make 14 super nice. Of course new chain n sprockets. Adjust those throttle butterflys, great step. Next is get idle correct, 1100. Get your TPS down to 1100 also. Adjust throttle cables at bars, tight as you can without making a diff when turning bars lock to lock. Get rid of PAIRS or block off. Clean air filter and fuel filter essential. My next, final step, some agree , some dont. Take off negative batt lead, touch it to positive terminal for at least 30 seconds. Should now run like the best youve ridden. So smooth. Youll need to reset clock. Not sure ive missed anything, slap me if i have. Thats my process about every year or so. Best running/smooth bike ive ever owned. It wasnt when first bought,Suzuki serviced.
Quote from: grog on Wednesday, 26 May 2021, 06:51 PM
There is a process to make 14 super nice. Of course new chain n sprockets. Adjust those throttle butterflys, great step. Next is get idle correct, 1100. Get your TPS down to 1100 also. Adjust throttle cables at bars, tight as you can without making a diff when turning bars lock to lock. Get rid of PAIRS or block off. Clean air filter and fuel filter essential. My next, final step, some agree , some dont. Take off negative batt lead, touch it to positive terminal for at least 30 seconds. Should now run like the best youve ridden. So smooth. Youll need to reset clock. Not sure ive missed anything, slap me if i have. Thats my process about every year or so. Best running/smooth bike ive ever owned. It wasnt when first bought,Suzuki serviced.
While leaving positive connected to battery?
Yes Steve. On later cars we call it a CAN BUS reset, drains all power from system, just a reload, capacitors etc sometimes just need their arse kicked.
Quote from: grog on Wednesday, 26 May 2021, 07:12 PM
Yes Steve. On later cars we call it a CAN BUS reset, drains all power from system, just a reload, capacitors etc sometimes just need their arse kicked.
Interesting, not something I would have attempted without someone trying it first for fear of blowing something up,thanks for the info, I take it that this is a turbocharged version of unplugging everything for a week or so to reset everything that my brother did to his VL turbo on advice from someone, which did the job by the way
Yep Steve, same thing, just faster. (obviously a B/W method . . . :whistling:)
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While leaving positive connected to battery?
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Surely not? Disconnect both THEN touch the leads together is what I would have thought?
You've disconnected the neg lead, there's no power flowing anywhere, you're just draining the capacitors & re-setting the ECU. Or just leave it disconnected for a couple of days, that drains everything too.
Correct Col. No circuit once negative removed. Doesnt matter if positive removed or not. Done it a hundred times.
Quote from: grog on Wednesday, 26 May 2021, 06:51 PM
There is a process to make 14 super nice. Of course new chain n sprockets. Adjust those throttle butterflys, great step. Next is get idle correct, 1100. Get your TPS down to 1100 also. Adjust throttle cables at bars, tight as you can without making a diff when turning bars lock to lock. Get rid of PAIRS or block off. Clean air filter and fuel filter essential. My next, final step, some agree , some dont. Take off negative batt lead, touch it to positive terminal for at least 30 seconds. Should now run like the best youve ridden. So smooth. Youll need to reset clock. Not sure ive missed anything, slap me if i have. Thats my process about every year or so. Best running/smooth bike ive ever owned. It wasnt when first bought,Suzuki serviced.
Lets see Grog.
Chain and sprckets done.
TB adjusted done.
Idle 1100 done.
TP down to 1100 NOT done. I know what it is, I can identify it on the bike, but can't find the procedure on the haynes manual. On other more recent suzuki models, I've seen people on youtube do it. They jump the diagnose connector with a piece of wire to get it in to dealer mode. I wounder how it works on the 14?
Throttle cables adjusted done
Get rid of PAIRS or block off NOT done. And there is another interresting subject to explore. Before the bike went to the shop it used to pop while coasting, which is the result and purpose of the PAIRS thing, burn any fuel on the exhaust gasses right. I doesn't pop any more, I am confused. The shop didn't remove them, but might have blocked them. I liked the pop, it wasn't excessive, just here and there. But taking it all out, in my opinion, cleans the upper engine area, which is stuffed with hoses.
The fuel filter is the teabag inside the tank? not done. Do I have to go in the fuel tank...shiiiiiiiit, I don't feel confidant for that yet, but I will study it on the manual and probably will find out it's not a big deal.
Air filter K&N should have been cleaned last june, but we have established that the mechanic was not thorough, this one is a maybe.
Never has it crossed my mind to drain electronics. I've done it dozens of times on my PC back in the day.
Quote from: seth on Wednesday, 26 May 2021, 06:27 PM
I agree with @KiwiCol
Knackered chain ECT would be first thing to go.
16 front is check the front if the swingarm as it'll have been rubbing the big rubber buffer away and may be even gone through it.
If your having problems I'd fit standard plugs like everyone else so you know it's not being different causing your problems .
As says @KiwiCol check the to's and stps .
Before you balance the throttle bodies.
Think @Andre Did a write up on how to do them.
Good luck
Seth, 16 is gone. The rubber buffer had some damage. Still fine. I know this because swing arm come of for thorough cleaning and bearings inspection, which looked good.
Standard plugs installed
TO is tip over and stps is secondary tps? you guys are killing me here. I am still trying to figure how to adjust TPS and now TO and stps.
With standard denso U24ETR bike runs much smoother, but still isn't perfect. And that's not good enough for me.
So next will be adjusting TPS, STPS, TO.
Cheers guys
You adjust the TPS by unplugging it & putting a mulitmeter across the wires, all the details are here.
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=263.0
Have a look through the stickies in the technical sections & you'll find most of your questions have already answered over the years.
If you haven't got it, you can download the factory workshop manual from the downloads section too.
Jambo, get TPS adjusted. See how it is. rest can wait. Balanced throttles, 1100 revs, 1100 at TPS, should be smooth as. Just ride it. :)
I forgot, after draining system, battery wires crossed. Can remember you need to open/close throttle twice. That was instructions from Andre, very clever person. Havent heard from him lately. Loved your info Mate.
@Andre did a lot of in-depth investigations into things .
He knows some great info.
Hopefully he's never far away but I've not spoken to him in a while either.
Well. I have adjusted the TPS at 1.1kohms and before adjusting I had a reading of 1.23kohms. I also drained all power from system.
Bike runs much worst than before. Should I try to adjust STPS too? What does the STPS do?
Cheers
Have you balanced the throttle bodies yet ?
Jambo, sorry its still no good. Very much reminding me same story a local member had, He tried eveything. Turned out was blocked injectors. He got them cleaned professionally, problem solved. BJ it was. Send him a PM, very helpful person.
Sounds odd to me. The bike was running ok before it was serviced? Then you need to find out exactly what they did during that service. Clearly it wasn`t undertaken by a competent dealership because they changed a sprocket for absolutely no reason! :thumbs_down:
The following is copied from a post I did some time ago
After checking and setting everything and still having problems I had the injectors professionally cleaned.
"So, leads one and four will fire cylinder 1 but neither will fire cylinder 4.
Switched plugs between 1 and 4. Same result.
Conclusion, not electrical.
Put the Carbtune vac gauges on and cylinder 4 was at the top limit and stayed there for a few turns before it started to come down
Cylinder 1 fair bit low and 2 & 3 hovering around the middle.
Wound down cyl 4 and up on 1.
Was amazed at two things.
A - the vac gauges were soooooooo easy to adjust which would have to be from the extra clean injectors.
B - bike runs like a charm.
I recall that the guy who cleaned my injectors said one was very dirty and I think he had it in the sonic cleaner for five hours.
My advice - If you clean injectors then vac the throttle bodies as part of reinstalling.
My bike has been running like shit for about three years so I'm hoping this will be the solution
(PS the bike has been running faultless ever since)
Other part of the story.
About 18 mths previously the bike was in the Stealership (I requested) and they said they had the injectors cleaned. I had to use an impact driver with hammer to release the two screws that hold the fuel rail. Those little f#@$kers were tight. The screw heads were unmarked and there is no way they had been out before. The bastards never had them cleaned.
I replaced them with stainless bolts so can use a ring spanner to loosen."
Quote from: BJ on Tuesday, 01 June 2021, 06:44 PM
Other part of the story.
About 18 mths previously the bike was in the Stealership (I requested) and they said they had the injectors cleaned. I had to use an impact driver with hammer to release the two screws that hold the fuel rail. Those little f#@$kers were tight. The screw heads were unmarked and there is no way they had been out before. The bastards never had them cleaned.
I replaced them with stainless bolts so can use a ring spanner to loosen."
Excellent advice BJ, and another example of why stealerships are to be avoided at all costs when it comes to servicing or mechanicking.
I recalibrated the throttle bodies and bike runs smooth again. Also, for some reason, with idle @1200rpm bike runs even smoother. I can have fun now and not worry about it.
Bike makes a new sound from engine. The only thing I can say is that it's a hollow sound...
Cheers guys
Hmmm, check your oil level.
Jambo, glad its fixed. No idea about your noise. Ear plugs are great things.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Saturday, 19 June 2021, 06:54 AM
Hmmm, check your oil level.
KiwiCol, oil level is good.
Quote from: grog on Sunday, 20 June 2021, 06:31 PM
Jambo, glad its fixed. No idea about your noise. Ear plugs are great things.
grog, no need for that. I now why the bike was making a hollow sound.
I have removed PAIRs and fitted some Smart moto plates. You can find them at smartmoto-electronics. They ship them from greece. while I was doing this, I noticed that, the large hose that comes from the airbox to PAIR valve was already disconnected. The hollow sound was coming from that sucking hole in the airbox. This happened while I was fideling with the TPS connector.
Cheers
Perfect result Mate. That hose and breather hose very near each other. Yrs ago i wanted to try blocking PAIRS just to try :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:, i blocked wrong one. You wouldnt believe how much smoke a 14 can create after 5ks without breathing system. :smile2: