I'm a first time user of this site so apologies if I appear to struggle with some features.
I have a very low mileage K6 (4000 miles) which I have had for 18 months and has been fine until recentl. It has developed a miss fire which clears at higher revs. I have checked the plugs then 'to eliminate' replaced them. I put new fuel in and added injector cleaner. The sparks are all healthy. I then took the bike to a local guy who was recommended to me. He checked the diagnostics and reported that all readings came back within tolerance when the engine was hot and cold. The coil resistance was also checked 'hot and cold' and found to be ok. Looks like all sensors are ok and no fault codes up. He had to admit defeat. So I am still none the wiser. He suggested it may be a bent or cracked valve or choked up with carbon (with it being low mileage and gentle use). I'm speculative on this and don't really want to start down that road just yet. Finally I'll point out that it gets worse as the engine heats up but it still Miss fires when cold. Any ideas guys?? Thanks
Gidday Grip, welcome to the Org.
Interesting situation you have going on there. Could suggest all sorts of things, but sounds like they've all been checked anyway.
One for Q or Alphadave or Lord Barmy himself I suspect.
Good luck with it, let us know how it gets resolved.
Cheers. Col
Has the bike been parked up over Winter with a part filled fuel tank?
If it has, then it could well be that the fuel has gone off and you have water in there due to condensation..Just a thought and something else to consider :onya:
I somehow doubt a bent or cracked valve or carboned up. Highly unlikely.
More this sounds electrical. Do you know which cylinder is misfiring or is it across all cylinders? What colour were the tips of the old plugs and were they all uniform in colour?
Can you also be more specific when this started and what you had done beforehand. Had it been standing all winter and since you started it, its now misfiring? Ridden in the rain and now misfiring? What were the circumstances?
As Froudy has said, I would dump all fuel in the tank and start with fresh (use something like BP Ultimate or Shell Optimax when you put fresh in as they have detergents to help "clean" the engine) , but whilst it is all out, just drop the fuel pump to check its not clogged up.
Its possible it could be an HT lead or plug cap breaking down, but at such low mileage, that would be unlucky. Does it misfire when standing still or only when under load
Simple things to check:
- If you have had the tank off, check that the overflow pipe is running freely down the side of the frame and is not kinked anywhere (else you could be getting back pressure in the tank. (Out of interest does it misfire under load, or does it do it when you rev it at a standstill as well - if at a standstill - just undo the tank cap and see if it still does it....
- Take off the LH side panel. Underneath you will see there is a big grey plug. Undo that, spray in some contact cleaner and re-assemble the plug (that plug leads to your ECU)
- Check your earth leads. Its possible you have corrosion under one of them which could be causing the issue
- Take the battery out and lift up the ECU - is it wet? Take the plugs off, spray with contact cleaner and re-assemble.
- At the front of swing arm is a pipe running down from the air filter with a plug at the end. Undo the plug and let any water that may have gained entry out.
See if any of those make any difference, and report back on the questions above.
Thanks for your response gsxbarmy.
Answers to your questions as follows:
1. Old plugs were all in very good condition (not overly carboned up or wet) and even in colour. Sparks all excellent.
2. I used the bike quite a bit after I bought it in July 2015 but just before I garaged it up for winter in late Sept. 2015 it developed this miss fire which has been present ever since. I have hardly used it over the last 18 months partly because of this issue (<100 miles). The previous owner reported that it had literally never seen rain and since I've had it it hasn't seen water in any form. The bike is pristine with no corrosion at all.
3. A complete fuel change was the first thing I tried and has since been tried again (last week). Fuel Conditioner / Injector Cleaner has also been added twice.
4. The Coils 'so I'm told' were checked when engine was cold and hot by the guy who was recommended to me and found to be ok.
5. It miss fires while standing still as well as when ridden / under load.
I'll add that the miss fire initially only occured when the engine was hot but it now miss fires when cold as well but it clears with high revs.
I'm offshore at the moment but will try your other suggestions when I return next week. Much appreciated thanks.
Hi grip
Not saying this is the problem, but you could check the camshaft sensor mine was very similar to some of your running problems and mine also started small and got worse along time, and the only way to check is change with another i.e. Anyone near you to change and see if this is the problem or ,,, buy another so no f1 lights at all hmmmm Suzuki own are pricey so if you do need one sort Suzuki four stroke out bore boat engine as I said it might be it might not but mine was like this and I did nearly all that you did,
Hope you get to the problem soon
Quote from: Grip on Sunday, 26 February 2017, 11:14 PM
Thanks for your response gsxbarmy.
Answers to your questions as follows:
1. Old plugs were all in very good condition (not overly carboned up or wet) and even in colour. Sparks all excellent.
2. I used the bike quite a bit after I bought it in July 2015 but just before I garaged it up for winter in late Sept. 2015 it developed this miss fire which has been present ever since. I have hardly used it over the last 18 months partly because of this issue (<100 miles). The previous owner reported that it had literally never seen rain and since I've had it it hasn't seen water in any form. The bike is pristine with no corrosion at all.
3. A complete fuel change was the first thing I tried and has since been tried again (last week). Fuel Conditioner / Injector Cleaner has also been added twice.
4. The Coils 'so I'm told' were checked when engine was cold and hot by the guy who was recommended to me and found to be ok.
5. It miss fires while standing still as well as when ridden / under load.
I'll add that the miss fire initially only occured when the engine was hot but it now miss fires when cold as well but it clears with high revs.
I'm offshore at the moment but will try your other suggestions when I return next week. Much appreciated thanks.
Mine did that last year but only when hot, checked all the things listed but then I changed the plugs and it's sorted.
Quote from: Mrg on Monday, 27 February 2017, 01:19 AM
Hi grip
Not saying this is the problem, but you could check the camshaft sensor mine was very similar to some of your running problems and mine also started small and got worse along time, and the only way to check is change with another i.e. Anyone near you to change and see if this is the problem or ,,, buy another so no f1 lights at all hmmmm Suzuki own are pricey so if you do need one sort Suzuki four stroke out bore boat engine as I said it might be it might not but mine was like this and I did nearly all that you did,
Hope you get to the problem soon
Having never looked does the 1400 have separate high and low speed coils for the stator?
If so I'd say the low speed coils are shot, if not then I'm out of ideas?!
It could well be the camshaft sensor. GRIP - do you a workshop manual (if not look in the Downloads - Manuals section) and that should tell you how to check it. If I remember I'll look the section up later.
hi grip
you might wont to look this up if you have to get a camshaft sensor its a great price
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Nockenwellensensor-Sensor-Nockenwelle-Suzuki-GSX-1400-/302229173085?hash=item465e43335d
:onya:
Camshaft Position Sensor testing is on Page 4-31 of the workshop manual
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Monday, 27 February 2017, 04:40 PM
It could well be the camshaft sensor. GRIP - do you a workshop manual (if not look in the Downloads - Manuals section) and that should tell you how to check it. If I remember I'll look the section up later.
That's fantastic gsxbarmy
I have a Haynes manual but your post has made things easier. I have a few good ideas now to try. I'll report back when I return from offshore. Thanks
Quote from: Mrg on Monday, 27 February 2017, 11:27 PM
hi grip
you might wont to look this up if you have to get a camshaft sensor its a great price
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Nockenwellensensor-Sensor-Nockenwelle-Suzuki-GSX-1400-/302229173085?hash=item465e43335d
:onya:
Thanks Mrg
I will check the that sensor out when I return from offshore. Also, thanks for the eBay link. Could come in handy. I'll report back hopefully with goods news
Did the mech check valve clearances too? ...just a thought...
no code is very strange. i wouldve thought cam sensor would throw a fault. my thought is to hook up ohm meter, check tps thru its range.
I've had this with another bike years ago. If its missing on tick over and clears at higher revs it generally a plug. And people miss it cause they always assume the worst and start looking at the coils. When the bike is cold. Start it up and immediately with care feel each header pipe and see if one is cooler than the others, you'll need to be fairly quick as you'll burn your fingers if not carefull. If one is cooler swap the plugs over. Repeat the exercise and see if the pipe that was cooler has warmed up and the other is cooler. If you get no joy swap the coil leads around but be mindful of the firing order, this will eliminate the plugs and coils
well i would realy like to know the out come of this as i went on mine tonight it was running perfect stopped filled her up and then a few miles later started missing in low and mid range !... the same as what Grip seems to have reported on his .
I dont think it electrical i think its defo fuel problem and im going to start with the teabag filter as i think froudy is right and its water .
We shall see ......
Has anyone said clutch & sidestand switch yet?
They trigger a different map for easier starting & on my K2 make it backfire like hell under load if shorted out. If they are just manky it's rough as hell at lower revs.
I will have a look at them as well i did have problems with my tiger and it turnd out to be a sticky side stand switch .
I agree..The clutch switch can cause very lumpy running if it's playing up. :onya:
Ill check the sidestand and clutch switches first i think as ive just changed the bars so maybe ive disturbed the something .... i will have a look and let you know !
I agree with the above! Also if you have aftermarket levers, just check you haven't knocked the setting back one notch as with some aftermarket levers they can cause the clutch switch not to release properly.
Having said all that - if the above makes no difference, swap the plugs out for another set, it could just as easily be a plug breaking down at lower revs. Also throw some injector cleaner through the system, as it could be a slight blocked injector at lower revs also.
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Thursday, 03 May 2018, 12:06 AM
I agree with the above! Also if you have aftermarket levers, just check you haven't knocked the setting back one notch as with some aftermarket levers they can cause the clutch switch not to release properly.
Having said all that - if the above makes no difference, swap the plugs out for another set, it could just as easily be a plug breaking down at lower revs. Also throw some injector cleaner through the system, as it could be a slight blocked injector at lower revs also.
[/quote
I did move the adjusters a couple notches on my after market levers :confused1: ..... youve all given me much to think about :hat:
well seems to be ok know :confused1:
Good news buddy
Hopefully that's it sorted now.
:onya:
Bloody peeing it down today so in to the shed later and its tank off and teabag filter and pump clean plus the pairs mod and a general check and clean as well as a damn good look round .
Mine does something very similar, if you sort it let me know. Bike ran very badly yesterday so it's getting worse, it would be better if it just stopped altogether but intermittent faults are always a bugger to fix.
Mjgt, does it actially mis fire or just run poorly? If mis firing a laser thermometer on down pipes will tell you which cylinder. Just running badly, kettle of fish. Rich or lean, need to find out.
Ok update !
I stripped the pump and the teabag filter was very dirty and gundgie so stripped the hole thing down and cleand and blew everything out , put it all back together and fire her up and it was a lot better but still not right still running lumpy and hesitating .
So now the controversal bit !!!
I had a S-TRE that i had fitted to my TL1000s (but it fits the 14 and others ) its the one that is supposed to improve throttle response in the first 50% of the throttle in 1 - 4 gears and remove the limiter in 5th and 6th but never realy made much difference on the TL !
So i thought what the hell i'll give it a go and fitted it to the 14 .... well its work brilliantly the bike is very smooth now and runs realy nice , there is still a slight hesitation right in the bottom but i think i can cure this by turning the tick over up slightly as it is 100 - 150 rpm on the low side ... we shall see !
The tre does the same as an ignition advancer .should be fine as long as you don't also fit an ignition advancer.
If it's running good then great news.
Quote from: grog on Sunday, 13 May 2018, 08:25 PM
Mjgt, does it actially mis fire or just run poorly? If mis firing a laser thermometer on down pipes will tell you which cylinder. Just running badly, kettle of fish. Rich or lean, need to find out.
It does misfire now and again but only on the overrun, bike is running very rich but I have checked everything in the FI system and there are no fault codes.
Been for a spin tonight and it is better but it is still not right and i would say the same as Mjgt , i think its running rich as it is sounding like a shotgun on the over run .
Good fun though as it frightens the shit out of people when it goes off but it would be nice to find the problem and solve it .
It's a pity we don't liver closer, and no I'm not moving back up to Peterhead :facepalm:
Ive been reading about this all over the web thingy and it seems not just to be the 14 it looks like they have a lot of the same issues with the gsxr range of similar years !
Runs perfect and then just starts to run rough at the lower end and from what ive read ive not seen a cure for it yet even after suzuki them selves looking at the bikes , infact most just seem to be living with it as best they can while other bikes have just come to there senses on there own and not given anymore trouble :confused1:
Well im going to try a bit of injector cleaner with my next fill up and get rid of the pairs and see if how that goes :whatever:
I've tried injector cleaner over the last 8 months, made no difference.
I had the same problem a while ago only sorted out once I had the injectors cleaned and serviced.
:cheers:
The only one i have read that was cured was with a set of new coils as it was 1-4 coil was breaking down , and come to think of it my bike is perfect till it gets warm and then starts to act up !
im not saying it is the problem but it is classic coil symptoms and would explain why i thought id sorted it till i got 10 mile from home when it started acting up again .
Could be worth a try with another set of coils .
:cheers:
just logged on to this. I had a problem 18 month ago,ran shit at low revs over fueling the lot tried all ussual suspects. my mate spotted head lamp dimmed on revving. cleaned plug to regulator rectifier with elec cleaner ...cured that problem...thought smaller voltage to ecu may have been problem . but it started missing over fueling again ( voltage ok now tho).so pulled all plug connectors etc cleaned assembled with a touch ACF50. on them and change clutch switch for a good measure.. touch wood been ok since 8000mile ago. hope this helps...Phill
Cheers Phill thanks for the heads up !! ... i'll give that a go one evening this week and see what happens :onya:
Yesterday I checked out all the other sensors and they were all in spec so I have sprayed them with cleaner and reassembled it, bike started straight up, will take it out for a run and see if it still does it. Will give the rectumfryer a spray as well.
Quote from: mjgt on Wednesday, 16 May 2018, 08:13 PM
rectumfryer
Is that so your arse will be more comfortable? :)
Let us know how you get on Mick .... and if the cream works :grin:
This will make you laugh....... Many years ago I was involved with the speedway (cars). We were all set to go so I was sitting on the edge of our big toolbox just waiting to push the car out for our race. I can hear air escaping and thinking it was just a tyre pressure bleeder thought nothing of it...... Until my arse starts to burn. I hop up and the escaping air was an aerosol of Brakeclean I had been sitting on and my jeans were soaked.
Running to the changing rooms was agony. Finally get there, drop my daks and am frantically splashing water on my solvent soaked delicate area. Had some explaining to do to the poor witnesses of that little act.
Very cautious where I sit now !!
Years ago I had a weekend job in a motor factors that supplied lead acid batteries. They'd be supplied to the customer across the counter. I sat on the counter waiting for closing time stood up & the arse of me jeans fell off, rotted by the acid residue left on the counter, trip home was slightly awkward...
Both last two wouldve been bad situations. Sounds like handled well.
Quote from: Cykik on Thursday, 17 May 2018, 05:35 PM
Years ago I had a weekend job in a motor factors that supplied lead acid batteries. They'd be supplied to the customer across the counter. I sat on the counter waiting for closing time stood up & the arse of me jeans fell off, rotted by the acid residue left on the counter, trip home was slightly awkward...
Nowadays that's what jeans are like when you get them from the shop. More holes than denim.
:furious: :furious: All connectors cleaned, all components checked and cleaned but the bloody thing still runs rough as a dog when warm, Will try swap the ECU next if I can find one. :furious: :furious:
Thats a bloody pain !!
This seems to be getting more and more common as a lot of the new members are joining for this reason trying to get info on this problem .
Well im going to test my coils as it seems to be okay cold and gets worse when hot but then again it can run great when hot and then just run crap again :furious: :furious: :furious: i know one thing its realy starting to do my head in now :frustrated: :angry:
Would putting it on a dyno be any help locating what's going on when warm?
Checked (when warm) the peak voltage on camshaft position sensor (CMP), and crankhaft position sensor (CKP) yet?
How to DIY peak voltage adapter for your multimeter:https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1034259-build-your-own-peak-voltage-adapter/ (https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1034259-build-your-own-peak-voltage-adapter/)
Checked all the sensors when warm?
Checked for vacuum leak when warm?
Mj is your bike fitted with a meta alarm by any chance
Be intrered to know if all of you having problems have alarns fitted and what type they are
The very first thing I do when I buy a bike is to have any third party alarm REMOVED.
On my previous Honda CB1300 the insuranc rose by the extortionate amount of £12 !!!
2 friends of mine work forbthe RAC and AA and they both claim the largest call out on bikes is for alarm faults ..
No alarm on mine there more trouble than there worth and they dont stop theft as most of the scum these days dont care if it is or it isnt alarmed
Im going to do one thing at a time and then try it as i would like to know what the cause is .... i dont think its a combination of things as it was perfect and then just started so im inclined to think its a single conponent .
Got me wondering now. Want to see the answer.
No alarm on this bike but I have never had any problems with alarms on any bike for the last 20 years, usually always fit one.
The strange thing is ive just service the tiger and the bloody thing did the same started running lumpy on the bottom :confused1: , but the tiger has a 12 minute tune you can do and the ECU will retune its self at the lower end of the rpm range ... did that and it's perfect now .
But its got me thinking about the o2 sensor on the 14 and weather its faulty or dirty ?
Quote from: shanered6 on Friday, 18 May 2018, 07:39 PM
The strange thing is ive just service the tiger and the bloody thing did the same started running lumpy on the bottom :confused1: , but the tiger has a 12 minute tune you can do and the ECU will retune its self at the lower end of the rpm range ... did that and it's perfect now .
But its got me thinking about the o2 sensor on the 14 and weather its faulty or dirty ?
Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the 14 has an O2 sensor. That's maybe one of the reasons they had to stop selling it when the tougher emission rules came in.
I would suggest unpluging the rectifier socket and checking the connetions usually the red ones rotton you may have to unbolt it from its handly placed position to inspect it
Also the spark plugs are CR8EK as standard . You can use CR7EK if the plugs are apt to get wet or CR9EK if they over heat
I allways remove alarms there just real hack jobs when fitted butchered in and the cause of many a electrical gremlin
The young lad round the corner from me his 14 started with this problem so he brought it round and we went through all the usual testing first then we started swapping things over coils throttle bodeis tank sensors the lot when it came to the rectifier we unplgged it and a small puff of corrosive dust waffted out as it came off looked in the socket and oh dear we managed to clean it up with a womans sandy nail file we then checked it with the amp meter wich gave average to low readings a new rectifier was fitted and these arnt cheap but it sorted out his banging and farting about
Well been through the entire wiring loom and every socket and no differance so thats eliminated them so now its time to start on plugs first and see if i can see any clues there , but i think it is definatly running rich as it gives of a slight amount of black smoke especially when cold .
well an update ! checked all the harness plugs , changed clutch switch , done the pairs mod , checked coils seem ok , also checked the error codes in dealer mode and its clear ! so had plugs out and they look realy good with a nice tan and had pump out and claened .... bloody diffrance :whatever:
Im starting to lean towards the throtle posision sensors but it"s driving me mad it can be perfect for a mile then crap for 10 then mint for 3 and then it can just stall out at a junction after popping and banging and then pull away perfect !!!! my ed is dun in :furious:.
Just to confuse things more, have you(or previous owner) got a TRE fitted or done the timing advance mod to the backplate? Popping & banging is fuel & timing, imo.
Gotto hate those intermittent problems. :frustrated:
Thinking of broken wire. Would check to see if anything looks suspicious, pinched or loose.
Just a word on dealer diagnostic mode. Codes will only show when there is an active fault ( FI light on). Codes are not stored. Leave it in dealer mode while you ride and take a look at the display when it is acting up again.
Quote from: shanered6 on Sunday, 27 May 2018, 03:08 AM
well an update ! checked all the harness plugs , changed clutch switch , done the pairs mod , checked coils seem ok , also checked the error codes in dealer mode and its clear ! so had plugs out and they look realy good with a nice tan and had pump out and claened .... bloody diffrance :whatever:
Im starting to lean towards the throtle posision sensors but it"s driving me mad it can be perfect for a mile then crap for 10 then mint for 3 and then it can just stall out at a junction after popping and banging and then pull away perfect !!!! my ed is dun in :furious:.
Me too, i'm even trying to buy another bike to swap bits around to nail this fault but it is getting on my tits.
mjgt, just buy a royal enfield, then youll really have problems to solve. :grin:
Quote from: grog on Sunday, 27 May 2018, 06:21 PM
mjgt, just buy a royal enfield, then youll really have problems to solve. :grin:
I ran a 57 Matchless G80 for years without any problems at all, easy to work on and ride, only crap bit was the lights.
Those Royal Enfields are made in India aren't they? Nuf said then!
well ive ordered new plugs and an air filter then thats everything consumable either new or cleaned and ive put a bottle of injector cleaner through for good measure !!
so im going to check the TPS sensors next and then as a last resort see if i can find a local dyno and see if they can shed some light on it , after that i dont know :whatever: you cant even sell a bike not running right but at the same time you cant keep throwing money down the drain either !!
Quote from: KiwiCol on Sunday, 27 May 2018, 06:31 PM
Those Royal Enfields are made in India aren't they? Nuf said then!
They may be made in India but they re probably a better bike than they were years ago. They are really good bikes for anyone who just wants to plod around at 50-60 mph and get 70 mpg. Prices are quite high for an "old" 350/500 single, they are just bringing out a 650 twin which looks like a 70's bike and will be another good but basic bike.
They are very inexpensive down under Mick. Ya see them for sale in the dealerships, but seldom on the road.
Shannered, feeling for you. wish i could help. such a brilliant bike normally. the dyno seems a good idea. i couldnt stand it, id sell and get another. have had bikes, cars, lawn mowers , whipper snippers in same boat. threw away, not worth the head hurt, sleepless nights etc.
Quote from: grog on Sunday, 27 May 2018, 06:48 PM
Shannered, feeling for you. wish i could help. such a brilliant bike normally. the dyno seems a good idea. i couldnt stand it, id sell and get another. have had bikes, cars, lawn mowers , whipper snippers in same boat. threw away, not worth the head hurt, sleepless nights etc.
its just realy strange it was perfect called in at the garage filled up 5 miles up the road it started and been like that since my first thoughts were it was low on fuel so its dirt or water or bad fuel , im just thinking its something very simple its just a case of finding it and the big problem is ..... IM BLOODY STUBBORN and wont give up till i find it or it ends up in the back of the shed covered in dust !
Drain the tank & bung it in your car. Put a fresh 20L in (95 or 98) via a Jerry can. Worth a crack.
Only saying this as you've said 'it started after filling up' at the local servo.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Sunday, 27 May 2018, 07:28 PM
Drain the tank & bung it in your car. Put a fresh 20L in (95 or 98) via a Jerry can. Worth a crack.
I've tried that twice Col, still no change.
Bugger isn't the word then.
Bloody yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees !!! :boogie: :boogie: :lol: ...... the 14 is running mint again and back to its smooth as silky power , changed plugs and air filter and hey prestow !! spot on !!
Right the air filter was new when i bought the bike and has only done 600 miles but it was definatly the problem , the new one ive bought is completely hollow inside , the one that came off had a tube that sank 3/4 of the length of the filter from the hole in the top and i think it was restricting the air flow .
And i think they were also the original plugs from new judging by the rust on them but the spark was still good , so if anyone else is having this issue just check your air filter and see which one you have fitted and if in doubt take the filter out and just try running the bike with out for a few minutes and see if it helps !
Glad you finally got to the bottom of your problem.
:clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:
:boogie: :boogie: :boogie:
If you can post a pic of the offending air filter it might help others .
:cheers:
Yippeeee :clapping:
well done that man :cheers: :cheers:
That's so bloody good you tracked it down & found it. Great news.
I will get some pics sorted to show the difference between the two , to be honest i wouldn't of found it as i knew it had a new one when i bought it but i thought oh well if i get another one i can discount it and at least i'll have a spare .
i suppose the plugs may have had a part to play but im convinced the fliter was the main culprit , but anyway im over the moon and it looks like stubbonness won out !! :imrgreen:
Glad you found it tho.
Bad plugs can cause all sorts of bother .
Hopefully this good weather lasts so you can get out and put some miles on it
:onya:
Ye i did 120 miles this afternoon going to Elgin and back and it ran fantastic :boogie: , its bloody tiring to ride when its lurching and stalling especially two up nearly put Lisa off going on the bikes altogether .
Good news...... riding something not running 100% is no fun. Well done. :onya:
Nice find, dodgy pattern air filters seem rather common. No idea why are they are pretty simple things.
That's good news although it doesn't make any sense to me as I would have thought a restricted air filter would cause more problems at higher revs than low. Just wish I could find out what's causing mine to run crap now.
Thats what i thought .... but i think the whats hppening is the ecu is restricting fuel because there's not enough air hence when you slacken off there's not enough fuel , and the ecu must be struggling to juggle the fuel mix between low revs and high revs .
I replaced my airfilter last month.Noticed the tube extending into the filter. Drilled out the spot welds, removed, shortened & refitted the tube. I think aftermarket filters have this tube but originals don't.
Quote from: shanered6 on Thursday, 31 May 2018, 07:12 PM
Thats what i thought .... but i think the whats hppening is the ecu is restricting fuel because there's not enough air hence when you slacken off there's not enough fuel , and the ecu must be struggling to juggle the fuel mix between low revs and high revs .
At low revs/throttle (the manual doesn't state what range) the ECU uses manifold pressure/throttle position to control the fueling at higher revs/throttle it uses throttle position/revs.
Ye i think what happens is the bike is only getting air from the bottom of the filter coz of the cube, so that bit of the filter gets dirty quick and then starts to starve the engine of air coz it cant pull it fast enough round the tube .