Just bandits want £109.00 for an 18mm breather.
I've just ordered and made up my own 20mm breather for £50.
Anyone interested in making one up yourself post in thread and I,ll post suppliers UK details and cost of individual fittings , available in red ,blue or black
Parts
Torques UK have a kit that fits.. not that deer too
Why? there is a perfectly good breather fitted at the factory & works fine. It's the block on top of the gearbox & right angle hose to the airbox that can be seen in your pic.
I hope you're fitting an airfilter to the end of this hose, or you'll draw dirt into the crankcase.
Quote from: Blubber on Friday, 08 January 2021, 02:41 AM
Torques UK have a kit that fits.. not that deer too
I've bought quite a lot of stuff from them for oil lines as ready-made seemed to be a bit overpriced.
I did take the plunge and spend out on the proper tool to prep and fit the hose couplings, not cheap but has more than paid for itself already.
Yes hooli filters is coming tomorrow....the reason why the breather is going on is theres a big turbocharger going on next month, the OEM breather goes into the air box...which will be replaced by the plenum...so that one and the additional one going to atmosphere will not only let it breath but help with a little with heat dispersal.....this will be my 5th turbo and recommend having at least one on a tuned or blown engine
Ahh it makes sense now, cheers.
Andy, looking fwd to build and details. Never tried a turbo 14, have ridden supercharged, totally amazing grunt.
Andy, what to expect. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIpx8Hd7miY&lc=UghgVBacoowet3gCoAEC
What's the full scale on that boost gauge. 1.2 bar!
I cant tell Irish. That would be around 17psi is that a lot to run? Lot of cars run much more. Subaru wrx we service has 28. It really runs stupid, so bloody fast.
Quote from: Irish in Oz on Friday, 08 January 2021, 08:04 PM
What's the full scale on that boost gauge. 1.2 bar!
It really uses ~0.7 bar boost(mine 0.6 bar or 0.9 bar, I don't need 0.9 bar hardly ever).
Turbo in that bike is the same than in my bike, Mitsu td 05h-16g (was in some article).
I don't know what cams he is using or what other mods have done.
And yes, I have 20 mm breather.
T 24 you could tell us more about your turbo setup, what injectors, fuel pump and other parts you are using and in which bikes or cars they can be found. Complete turbo kits are just too expansive for many of us but building one would be interesting :cheers:
T24, if you run .7, no wonder that Subaru at work flies with 2.0 bar. It has 3 settings, thats the highest.
Quote from: mlivkovich on Saturday, 09 January 2021, 08:43 AM
T 24 you could tell us more about your turbo setup, what injectors, fuel pump and other parts you are using and in which bikes or cars they can be found. Complete turbo kits are just too expansive for many of us but building one would be interesting :cheers:
My turbo setup is quite cheap "economy" version, cheaper than most good full exhaust systems (Yoshi, Akra, etc.)
-primary injectors are INP-771 = CDH 210, from Yamaha 115-150 outboard motors, or from Mitsubishi Eclipse, equal than Suzukis original ones.
-secondary injectors are Bosch 0 280 150 431, 350cc, from Saab 93 2.3 turbo
-secondary injectors are controlled by secondary ECU, from ProBoost turbosystems, Rovaniemi.
-fuel pump is from Audi/VW 1.8 turbo
-fuel regulator is Begi 2025 rising rate regulator, fuel pressure is between 1.8 bar to 6.5 bar
-exhaust manifold is some cheap china made, what didn't fit at all. It needed a few days of welding and milling.
-turbo is Mitsubishi TD 05H-16G, from Mitsubishi Lancer Evo, wastegate hole grinded bigger and smoother. Enough up to 380 hp.
-exhaust system is home made of stainless steel, 3"=> 2x2.5"=> 2x2"
-clutch plates are stock, springs are heavy duty versions
-2.nd gear sprockets are "under cut" grinded, and shift fork shafts are billet made aftermarket stuff from Hayabusa.
-water methanol injection is 150 cc / 10 bar system from coolingmist.
-intake cam is original and exhaust cam is another original intake cam, set with adjustable cam sprockets lobe centers 110°/110°.
Gain of cam swap is huge: Dynoed 50 hp, 220 rwhp to 270 rwhp@ 1 bar of boost!
-adjustable cam sprockets are made by milling longer holes to stock sprockets.
-etc.,etc.
Result: Street legal 116 hp @ 0.45 bar , MOT approved :whistling:
Worked now 57 000 km with turbo, 150 000 km total.
I've never heard of putting an intake cam on the exhaust side of a 14 before. What made you try that?
It is a familiar idea, my old Bonnie has an intake profile on the exhaust cam as they fitted a very tame exhaust cam to downtune the engine so it wouldn't kill the crank bearings.
Quote from: Hooli on Sunday, 10 January 2021, 03:37 AM
I've never heard of putting an intake cam on the exhaust side of a 14 before. What made you try that?
It is a familiar idea, my old Bonnie has an intake profile on the exhaust cam as they fitted a very tame exhaust cam to downtune the engine so it wouldn't kill the crank bearings.
Using intake profile on exhaust side is a common trick in turbo Volvos and turbo Hayabusas etc. More lift and duration to exhaust side.
And notice lobe centers.
You can compare this to Kent Cams "turbo cams" for 14.
T24 ..the system I'm using this time is the Finnish pro boost system. I could get one from BIG CC , but to be honest it's never gonna see a track.so doesn't warrant 3 times the cost .its a street bike at the end of the day so nothing fancy or overly expensive. I've also got a 100hp nitrous kit off my old GSXR1100...So I'm gonna chuck that on aswell but knock the foggers down to 50hp.
As I guess you already know.the pro boost systems bolt on to a standard engine with heavy clutch springs.although I'm going for an MRE lock up clutch...probably realistically looking at 200 hp without gas..which is enough to put a grin on your face on a street bike
I,ll photo document fitting, although its straight forward enough,and post for those guys who are interested