A hopefully happy 2021 to everyone , over the break got into a series of jobs that were building up my K8 , new fork seals , remove and modify ignition barrel tumblers and replace the head stem bearings, all is well but I cannot find much data on how to set up the pre load on the bearings , all the info I can find is for the ball race configuration on the early bike .
Can someone please indicate if 200-400 grams is the same preload for both systems I am sure it should be but cannot seem to find any documentation ,the manual supplements don't seem to indicate a difference or I am looking at the wrong ones, did they change to tapered in 2003-04?
Thanks
Horse
Go to the top of the page to downloads and download the manual and on page 228 it will show you the torque settings and how to.
STEERING STEM
• Tighten the steering stem nut to the specified torque with the
steering stem nut wrench.
09940-14911: Steering stem nut wrench
Steering stem nut: 45 N.m (4.5 kgf.m, 32.5 lb-ft)
• Turn the steering stem about five or six times to the left and
right so that the angular ball bearing will be seated properly.
• Loosen the steering stem nut by ¼ – ½ turn.
and
• Tighten the steering stem head nut to the specified toupue.
Steering stem head nut: 65 N.m (6.5 kgf.m, 47.0 lb-ft)
I bought two Timken tapered bearings, 32005 and 32006 for $25 from my local bearing shop. Any brand will share the same numbers.
I have a K4 and believe they will be the same as yours.
I also made a stem nut tool from a socket.
Thanks for the reply that's the info I failed to find , the info i had indicated a preload to give drag of between 200-400 grams will be interesting to see where this method ends up ,seems like the backing off will end up with very little preload once again thanks for the direction,
Horse
Probably torquing correct way. I just tightened mine until i knew seated, then used spring balance to get specs. Its just a digital thingo thats used to measure baggage weight. I used punch n hammer to get specs. Ive never liked backing off tapered, always like some preload on them. Just my way.
I've no idea what the figures are, but I set mine so with the front of the bike still up turning the bars just off centre means the wheel slowly falls to the side.
I'm with you grog in this application it needs preload and I will just tighten it until I get 300 grams of drag from the centre position ,wouldn't usually be so particular but had a GSX 1100 EZ back in the 80s that was a problem if the stem bearings were not spot on ,doesn't seem like the 14 is that particular but will make sure its close,
Thanks everyone for the input,
Horse
I followed the torque specs and found it ok, but seemed a bit too loose. Then i followed Andre's method of setting the preload so that from about 1/2 way from centre the bars gently fall to full lock, but when centred, the bars stay put. Feels spot on now
Gents
I think I might do my brgs soon
Not sure if ever done so likely still the orig ball style
I found a couple of numbers in another thread....contacted my brg supplier and he came back with this
Not sure if the seals will create a problem...no idea what the seal sizes are...or meant to be
HI NEIL
As these bearings are for motorcycle steering head
I think they should be
32005JRRS ( which means bearing and oil seal all in one )
32006JRRS ( which means bearing and oil seal all in one )
They look right to me, from memory.
I can't recall if the seal is all in one with the bearings originally, but if it's the right size & total thickness it won't matter either way.
Quote from: 1AW022 on Thursday, 11 February 2021, 07:55 PM
Gents
I think I might do my brgs soon
Not sure if ever done so likely still the orig ball style
I found a couple of numbers in another thread....contacted my brg supplier and he came back with this
Not sure if the seals will create a problem...no idea what the seal sizes are...or meant to be
HI NEIL
As these bearings are for motorcycle steering head
I think they should be
32005JRRS ( which means bearing and oil seal all in one )
32006JRRS ( which means bearing and oil seal all in one )
I supplied the bearing numbers in my post above.
All you need now is a correctly bend old bit of metal to drift out the lower outside race as the headstock widens on the way down & a straight one won't do it.
The correct bend, is about 'that much' after twatting it in a vice till it fits. You'll see as soon as you're in there.
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 11 February 2021, 09:51 PM
All you need now is a correctly bend old bit of metal to drift out the lower outside race as the headstock widens on the way down & a straight one won't do it.
The correct bend, is about 'that much' after twatting it in a vice till it fits. You'll see as soon as you're in there.
:grin: exactly that, i was pfaffing around with sockets, wobble bars etc. Ended up using a small(ish) crow bar and using the angled tip at one end i was able to drive the old bearing outer race out. Bit agricultural, but it works.
Bearing and Seal numbers - incl where appropriate seal numbers - here https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=197.0