Hi,
I am starting the rebuild of my SRAD 750 front brakes which are Tokico 6 pot types. They are notorious for the brake pad retaining pins corroding and seizing and sure enough that's my latest problem. Try as I may I cannot budge them. I have cleaned the whole caliper assembly in an ultrasonic tank and doused and soaked them in penetrating lube but they won't budge. So far I have tried and failed to move them by twisting them with grips. My next method was to get a firm grip of them with mole grips and tap pretty hard with a hammer, but again not a sign of movement. I have 3 other ideas:
1) Using a Dremel cut the pin in half. Remove the pads and tap one side out and hopefully pull the other out.
2) Remove the caliper joining bolts and try and twist them apart. However, I'm very concerned this will only crack the caliper bodies at the pin locations.
3) Drill the back of the caliper directly through to the pin and tap it out as per a Del Boy video.
Any advice or further suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Phil
Are they the same type as fitted to the 1400? You make no mention of using an Allen key so I'm trying to visualise what you are saying.
Hi Mate, Here are some pictures
To help clarify the last photo shows the pin that needs to be removed. The left side had a little R clip retaining the pin and with that removed you should be able to slide the pin out towards the left which has an open end (see first photo pin access central above middle pot). The right side has a closed end with no access to the pin (see second photo no access above middle pot).
From what I can see I would cut the pin off hard up against the out side edge of the brake pads and remove the pads. With a bit of juggling around I would try to find a spacer to fill the gap between the inside faces of the calliper and punch out the inner pin with a drift (don't forget to support the bottom edge as well) then on the other side grip what's left with mole grips and give it a bit of a wiggle and twist. Clean up the holes but don't ream out the holes bigger or they might rattle about too much, refit with SS pins and never seize.
Thanks Mate that sounds like my number 1 option but with adding a spacer for support which I hadn't thought of doing. Will definitely use SS pins once the old ones are out.🤗
You could try heating with a Hot air paintstripper but be careful not to get anything to hot .
Thanks Seth that was in the back of my mind. I don't have a hot air paint stripper but I do have a precision hot air soldering station I use for my work when building electronic circuit boards. It will keep the heat very localised on the pins and can generate some pretty high temperatures.
another way is to remove the half bolts and with the caliper in a vice, start to revolve the top of the caliper backwards and forwards to work the pin loose - once one side is off then take caliper out of the vice and place the pin in the vice and again start to move backwards and forwards till it works loose
when rebuilding run a drill though the holes to clear out any alloy corrosion on the sealed end don't go to deep or you will drill through the back of the caliper
Bloody salt
I`d go with Del - bolts out, copious quantities of WD40 and start twisting. Use Gunk to remove any WD40 residue afterwards.
A couple days ago I tried to replace brake pads on friend's gsxr600 k6 and guess what? All 4 brake pad pins were loctited :facepalm: and allen key holes were snapped. I had to take apart inner half of calipers, take out pistons and seals, heat the pins with torch and hammer in torx bit to take them out. Now waiting new pins and pads to arive
Having had two retaining pins fall out of my 14, I loctite them too.
Quote from: Hooli on Sunday, 15 November 2020, 07:42 AM
Having had two retaining pins fall out of my 14, I loctite them too.
I never used loctite on these and they never fall out. Maybe I was lucky so far.
Quote from: Hooli on Sunday, 15 November 2020, 07:42 AM
Having had two retaining pins fall out of my 14, I loctite them too.
Probolt do some stainless pins which you can wire once in - which would save on using loctite - if that would work better perhaps?
https://www.pro-bolt.com/stainless-steel-caliper-pad-pin-rear-race-spec-lsspinbp003rz2/
I've been loctiting mine for a while now, none have fallen out and they unscrew fine.
You can get longer ones off eBay that use an R-clip, I think for a Honda 600 something. I've got one fitted to replace one that fell out, no R-clip though as I forgot and it got eaten as I unscrewed the pin.
Quote from: Del on Sunday, 15 November 2020, 06:04 AM
another way is to remove the half bolts and with the caliper in a vice, start to revolve the top of the caliper backwards and forwards to work the pin loose - once one side is off then take caliper out of the vice and place the pin in the vice and again start to move backwards and forwards till it works loose
when rebuilding run a drill though the holes to clear out any alloy corrosion on the sealed end don't go to deep or you will drill through the back of the caliper
Hi Del, This is pretty much what I was thinking in my second option. It seems the easiest method in many ways as I''m stripping the brakes completely anyway. The worry I have is as I twist the calliper to release the pin will this force simply crack the casting? I have not been able to find anything on the internet where this method has been used so I'm a little reluctant to try it. Have you or anyone else had experience of doing it this way?
I tried to put pin in vice but pins would not move, they tend to crack. Only heat helped me to unwind them out.
Quote from: mlivkovich on Sunday, 15 November 2020, 06:18 PM
I tried to put pin in vice but pins would not move, they tend to crack. Only heat helped me to unwind them out.
That's exactly my worry Mlivkovich that the casings crack. So from your experience I am now going to add heat from a blow torch as well as force.
Thanks for posting🤗
@Big Phil - not sure it this will help you - I have refurbished a lot of Tokico calipers (think its getting close to 3 figures) - and never had a casing crack on me doing this to remove the pin
Im not saying just half the calipers and stick in a vice and start wailing on them - I would use penetrating fluid every few hours to get into the crud and where I deemed necessary some heat (too much heat makes the alloy brittle)
the only other way is to soak in penetrating fluid then use a set of vise grips in the pin and move backward and forwards the issue with this is that you are fighting the pin on 2 faces so twice the resistance - this generally lead to the vise grips slipping and needing reset
if you have a Dremel with a cutting disc then you can cut the pin close to the double open end side and try to tap it out with a drift - this is more of a shock on the caliper than the initial option I suggested
Hope you get it out mate
Del
Quote from: Big Phil on Sunday, 15 November 2020, 11:59 PM
Quote from: mlivkovich on Sunday, 15 November 2020, 06:18 PM
I tried to put pin in vice but pins would not move, they tend to crack. Only heat helped me to unwind them out.
That's exactly my worry Mlivkovich that the casings crack. So from your experience I am now going to add heat from a blow torch as well as force.
Thanks for posting🤗
Maybe I was misunderstood.... I meant that pins wouldn't move without heat. Pins would break (crack) before I could unscrew them if only held in vice. Heat helped to "melt" loctite and I hammered torx bit because allen key holes in pins were already damaged. Caliper body would not crack unless you hit it with hammer. Little heat wont't hurt them.
Hi Del,
Quote from: Del on Monday, 16 November 2020, 06:04 AM
@Big Phil - not sure it this will help you - I have refurbished a lot of Tokico calipers (think its getting close to 3 figures) - and never had a casing crack on me doing this to remove the pin
Im not saying just half the calipers and stick in a vice and start wailing on them - I would use penetrating fluid every few hours to get into the crud and where I deemed necessary some heat (too much heat makes the alloy brittle)
the only other way is to soak in penetrating fluid then use a set of vise grips in the pin and move backward and forwards the issue with this is that you are fighting the pin on 2 faces so twice the resistance - this generally lead to the vise grips slipping and needing reset
if you have a Dremel with a cutting disc then you can cut the pin close to the double open end side and try to tap it out with a drift - this is more of a shock on the caliper than the initial option I suggested
Hope you get it out mate
Del
Hi Del, That you have carried out that many refurbs has to be the way to go then. It really is reassuring when your getting help from someone with that experience so I will follow your method.
As I was posting this came from Mlivkovich and he also states the callipers won't crack.
[/quote]
Maybe I was misunderstood.... I meant that pins wouldn't move without heat. Pins would break (crack) before I could unscrew them if only held in vice. Heat helped to "melt" loctite and I hammered torx bit because allen key holes in pins were already damaged. Caliper body would not crack unless you hit it with hammer. Little heat wont't hurt them.
[/quote]
Anyway thanks ever so much to you both and everyone who has offered me help. It really is very much appreciated.
Kind Regards to All
Phil
Hi Del,
Just wanted to say a MASSIVE THANK YOU👏👏👏👏
Retaining pin out of one caliper this evening will do the other tomorrow.
Again thanks to everyone who has offered help and advice.
Kind regards
Phil
Glad you got it sorted mate :clapping: :clapping: