Yesterday I went for a ride, shiny bits 'n all. But after a little while I was noticing a repeatable "clicking" sound coming from the front brakes on the first touch - and on every first touch. At first I wasn't sure I was hearing it but then one time I pulled the clutch in to let the engine quiet down and touched the brakes lightly repeatedly and sure enough it's a sound coming from the brakes. It sounds like the pads are loose/slack a bit.
Brakes work fine.
When I pulled the calipers off of the wheel to do the forks they came off pretty easily and went back on without my needing to push the pistons apart. I was careful to not touch the lever while working on the forks.
Have I forgotten to do something?
All feels solid and nothing's loose. I loctited and torqued everything up and checked it all several times because I was pretty paranoid of forgetting something.
It's not the brake light switch. That's a different sound. This is definitely coming from the caliper area and seems to come more from the left than the right though can't be sure.
I just went out to the shed to check for anything loose and nothing seems loose. I asked doggo but he wasn't sure.
What could it be?
They all do that sir. Some makes of pad are worse than others for it, EBC seem to be one of the worst I've found.
It's the play top & bottom of the pad in the calliper, so when you put the brakes on they lift slightly with the rotation of the disk & click as it tap the top of the hole in the calliper. Then drop down again when released.
Awesome! Never noticed it before. Thanks!
I'm sure some people have said they've reduced or fixed it by bending the shiny bits that fit over the pads on the calliper, I've never bothered to try that.
Quote from: Hooli on Monday, 26 October 2020, 08:25 PM
They all do that sir. Some makes of pad are worse than others for it, EBC seem to be one of the worst I've found.
It's the play top & bottom of the pad in the calliper, so when you put the brakes on they lift slightly with the rotation of the disk & click as it tap the top of the hole in the calliper. Then drop down again when released.
For me, brake cleaner solve this low speed "clacking" for some time, but them it come's back.
ON 6-pot calipers, I manage to solve it using zip-tie like on picture - this way, cover plate force pads harder, and they are not moving up/down so freely.
ON my 4-pot's I do not know, how to get rid of it.
And yes, I use EBC HH pad's.
Hi northern
Got to admit I've had this and always wounded what it was so now I know thank you and that's the next little job to be done cool :onya:
Quote from: northern on Monday, 26 October 2020, 08:56 PM
For me, brake cleaner solve this low speed "clacking" for some time, but them it come's back.
ON 6-pot calipers, I manage to solve it using zip-tie like on picture - this way, cover plate force pads harder, and they are not moving up/down so freely.
ON my 4-pot's I do not know, how to get rid of it.
And yes, I use EBC HH pad's.
I've got SBS 686RS pads and come to think of it the only thing I "did" was spray some brake cleaner around the calipers to clean them up a bit but they've been recently cleaned when we put the pads on and the pistons were cleaned and freed but that was only a few hundred kms ago. Might try the zip tie trick though. Good onya Northen.
I posted your suggestions on my YouTube channel and pointed back to this thread (for a bit of org love) and got this reply...
QuoteThat would be a sound theory if you were rotating your wheel while making the noise, but your clearly not.
The only items i can think that would make a similar noise would be a loose brake pad backing plate or maybe a loose brake disc rivet? I'm definitely intrigued to know the answer if you find it.
I did check the rivets and disc and both seem rock solid. Something's moving inside the caliper when I'm moving or stationary every time I tap the brakes (lightly) if that helps. I'm going to pull them off when I get back home later and see if there's anything obvious because I'm fairly sure it wasn't making that sound before I recently pulled them off for the fork polish.
Shove a foldeed bit of paper under one end of the pads and notice the noise stop, it's the pads moving I promise you.
It gets worse as the bike gets older and the callipers wear too.
Roger.
I sent the video to the mechanic and he says "Sounds like metal on metal pull the left caliber back off and make sure the pads are seated correctly"
So I'll do that and see if it helps.
I took my front and rear callipers off the discs and cleaned them some weeks ago. Definitely not making that noise before or after replacing but no idea what pads are fitted on mine. Does sound metallic to me as well.
Tomorrow I investigate. I didn't actually clean the calipers properly. Just cleaned them a bit on the outside because they were pretty grimy and I felt odd putting them on my newly cleaned forks so I gave them a quick squirt and wipe but I just slid them back on and bolted them up. Wasn't sure if I had to make sure of anything inside. I wasn't expecting to need to spread the pads apart but was ready for it in case for some reason they didn't slide on as easy as they came off. I did notice they were rubbing a lot when I tried to spin the wheel after applying the brakes a few times before letting the bike down. Not sure if I was or wasn't suppose to do that. However I rode cautiously around the block and local streets for a few minutes to make sure everything was working properly.
Just playing things carefully by ear. Not even sure what properly seated pads should look, feel or sound like so I'll just inspect, jiggle stuff and see if I can see something odd. Gonna scan the manual to see if there's anything special I should be doing.
Hints and tips gladly accepted.
SA14 - Dont worry about it, its just the combo of moving parts aligning and working together at the point of braking. You`ll probably find the `ticking` gets worse as the disc warms up. Some brake rotors & pad combinations are more prone to noise than others.
Floating discs are exactly that - they aren`t solid, they sit on the bobbins and there is a tolerance gap in order that the bobbins work correctly.
In fact, if you grip your front wheel with one hand to keep the front end solid, then grip the rotor with the other and sharply pull it from side-to-side, you will feel a fraction of movement and hear that `click` that you`re referring to as the bobbins re-seat themselves.
I first came across this brake noise years ago on another bike and wondered what the heck it was, then it dawned on me that i`d never owned a bike with floating discs before..... :doh:
It did actually get a bit more noticeable after some downhill twisties but I've never noticed it before so it's pretty obvious I've disturbed something. I did grab the discs and check them for rattle but they seem very solid. Today I'll have a look and report back.
Here's a thought to play with your head.
You said your discs seem very solid. Your bobbins are probably stuck and your rotor isn't floating.
So if you free up the bobbins the brakes will probably click and clack more. :rofl2:
Quote from: SFC1000 on Wednesday, 28 October 2020, 11:18 AM
Here's a thought to play with your head.
You said your discs seem very solid. Your bobbins are probably stuck and your rotor isn't floating.
So if you free up the bobbins the brakes will probably click and clack more. :rofl2:
This guy has a different opinion on cleaning bobbins.
Nice to see a guy who really knows his stuff and I entirely agree with everything he says. He`s right, there`s an obsession with cleaning bobbins - what a joke :doh:.
Incidentally, EBC agree too!
`Ticking` or no `ticking`, enjoy the ride and don`t worry about it :onya:
Cleaned, spun bobbins a few times, never really been too concerned.Has just been same after. Ride on.
Cleaned my bobbins once after an advisory on my MOT but it made absolutely no difference so I changed disks to EBC. Bobbins can no longer be turned. Never rotated bobbins on any other bike and never had a problem.
Just got back from a 50km ride with some young-uns who were in awe of the 14. Let me see if I can say this right...They were all like waaaa? 'n shit. lol
Brakes were still clicking but strangely there was no clicking when I went out to the shed to check it this afternoon. Also at a few checkpoints I asked a few of the more experienced guys to have a listen and sure enough it wasn't clicking but as I rode it home on the last leg I could definitely hear it again. Brakes seem fine. Didn't get a chance to pull the brakes off again but will hopefully do it tomorrow and report. I'm comforted by all the "don't worry about it"s.
I would be afraid of riding a bike that clicks, very afraid 😂 Seriously though, you can hear it whilst riding with a helmet on? That's gotta be a pretty loud clicking noise😳
Phil, thought same. I always wear ear plugs these days, makes riding nicer. The bad thing is, im never gonna here those clicks etc.
Depends on your earplugs, I can hear mine clink if the engine is off.
True Hooli, but will never ride without them now. I like the mushroom type, work for me.
No need for ear plugs on my bike! Still have the stock exhausts fitted🤣😂🤣
Quote from: Big Phil on Thursday, 29 October 2020, 03:26 AM
I would be afraid of riding a bike that clicks, very afraid 😂 Seriously though, you can hear it whilst riding with a helmet on? That's gotta be a pretty loud clicking noise😳
Not at speed (obviously) but when I'm pulling up to a complete stop yeah, that's what brought my attention to it in the first place.
Still that's gotta be a pretty loud clicking noise Baz. Little things like that can drive you mad, like a squeak from a car dashboard. I'm sure you will find a cure though with one of the tips from the guys on here.
Solved + eek! :shocked:
I don't show it on the video but I pulled the pad right out and inspected it and it seemed fine, checked the disk and no marks. I haven't touched it since the new brake pads were installed by the mechanic. I'm having thoughts and they're not cheerful thoughts. The brakes were still operating but having a pad floating around in the breeze like that wasn't ideal. It doesn't seem to have caused any damage.
Find another mechanic
Quote from: grog on Sunday, 01 November 2020, 11:06 AM
Find another mechanic
Waaaay ahead of ya. Unforgiveable.
I think you've already found him, bloke called Baz and this place for reference and advice
WTF! That's bloody scary when you think how many other bikes he has been and will be "servicing" There is absolutely no excuse whatsoever for that! At least you found it before anything bad happened.
Yeah, not real flash that's for sure but I'm perplexed. He swears he'd never ever do that (I sent him the video) and I expect he suspects someone else (me) has been fiddling with it but I haven't. I had to look up how to remove the pads in the manual. I've never touched them and neither has anyone else. There's no way that'd ever be possible without someone physically removing the pin, dropping the pad and reinstalling the pin - surely. The only thing I did you guys know and that's to remove the caliper to remove the front wheel to polish the forks. That's it. How could a seemingly very honest mechanic with 16 years of racing and who knows how many more of working on bikes. I can understand how he'd find it impossible to believe yet here we are.
Just took her for a 300km blast down to the cape and back and you're not going to believe it but the clicking is still there! As I'm pulling up to a stop I tap the brakes lightly a few times and every time I get that same click. :confused1: Now, I'm not too sure if it's the same clicking because I got so worried about it (it was just as loud as before) that I pulled over, took off helmet and gloves and physically banged and tapped and grabbed and wiggled everything from the mudguard to the calipers to the discs (tapped and manhandled them all around) to the brake line clamps...all tight as a drum except one thing...
the pad spring. That did make a "tinging" sound when I tapped it and I kind of think that it might be that so I'm going to try the zip tie trick from
@northern next.
Could it be that it's been the pad springs all along as
@northern suggested and I accidentally discovered the dropped pad in my investigation?! Plausible. Like going into hospital for concussion and they discover a brain tumor during the scans.
Here's another thing, I think I'm hearing a "rattle" from the front when going over bumps. Not think, I know...I'm hearing a rattle for sure. Could it be the pad springs that are causing that too? I honestly can't remember if I've heard the bump rattle before but I might have. It could be that I'm listening more intently and hearing every little thing. At the lights I could also hear a high pitched hum/whine from the engine as well. At the first lights I stopped at and heard it I thought it was a singing muffler from the car next to me but I was alone at the next set of lights and I could still hear it..but I digress.
I don't want any extraneous sounds that should be there.
@northern did your zip tie also solve a rattling sound when going over bumps? It'll be hilarious if a zip tie solves all this but I'll take any solution. I hope this is helping others.
May as well pay my dues with a pic at least...
Cape Jervois, South Australia.
Quote from: steve porter on Sunday, 01 November 2020, 11:33 AM
I think you've already found him, bloke called Baz and this place for reference and advice
Haha, I'm certainly banking some experience that's for sure. I'm not shy, I'm just cautious and don't want to wreck anything. I know there can be lot of gotchas. I pulled apart a 3 speed push bike derailleur when I was 7 and there were bits everywhere. I had to gather it all into a plastic bag and take it to the bike shop and I still (to this very day) remember his reaction. It was a kid and mum friendly "WTAF?!". I also pulled apart a spring watch once and a radio. Needless to say neither ever worked again. 49 years later I'm still spooked :happy1:
I hope you sent that picture to your ex-mechanic. :stir:
One sticking piston can cause clicking as the piston/s that aren't sticking release and the pad ends up not square, when putting in new pads I always push the pistons out further and clean with brake Cleaner and a toothbrush sized stainless brush before pushing the pistons back in, rather than pushing crud that is built up on the pistons back past the seal, sorted a mates KTM that was making a racket by doing this
Quote from: mjgt on Sunday, 01 November 2020, 07:48 PM
I hope you sent that picture to your ex-mechanic. :stir:
I sent him the video actually.
Quote from: SA14 on Sunday, 01 November 2020, 07:19 PM
...He swears he'd never ever do that (I sent him the video) and I expect he suspects someone else (me) has been fiddling with it but I haven't. I had to look up how to remove the pads in the manual. I've never touched them and neither has anyone else...
Quote from: steve porter on Sunday, 01 November 2020, 08:11 PM
One sticking piston can cause clicking as the piston/s that aren't sticking release and the pad ends up not square, when putting in new pads I always push the pistons out further and clean with brake Cleaner and a toothbrush sized stainless brush before pushing the pistons back in, rather than pushing crud that is built up on the pistons back past the seal, sorted a mates KTM that was making a racket by doing this
You know Steve, that could definitely be a thing. Remember mine were all stuck when I took them in to him and he unstuck 8 pistons. They may have got stuck again. Maybe it's time I learned how to pull the calipers all apart and clean them properly once and for all. I've read others on here have to do it on a regular basis. I'd love to be able to do it. It'd be a feather in my mechanical hat that's for sure. I'll look up the article I saw posted about how to do it. If one's getting stuck out again it absolutely makes sens that the noise I'm hearing is the slapping of the pad as the other pistons come into play and you know...I think the brakes didn't work that well today. Not like they did when I rode them home. Also my rear brake seems to be doing not much as well.
Might be time eh? Especially given that you've now anointed me as my own mechanic...lol :hat:
SA14 - I won`t reiterate what i`ve already said about the `ticking` noise!......
......your rear brake may need bleeding, it may need new pads, or it may need nothing doing. Don`t forget, you`ll hardly use it and its only for slowing you down, the last thing you want is a rear brake which `grabs`.
So, you have also noted a `rattle` at the front when going over bumps. Its likely to be unrelated to your caliper/pads, but something much more innocuous, ie. your brake lines simply moving within their clips?. The other obvious one is to check that your mudguard/fender is tight? Maybe your brake lines are clanging against your fender?
Think `unusual` vertical movement like going over bumps, then follow the parts which don`t `want` to move but have to, if that makes sense! Its amazing with vehicles that sometimes noises coming through don`t actually come from where you think they are eminating from!
As an aside, and not related to a `14, but to illustrate my point, my old GT750A Kettle developed a really strange whine at the front after a few miles each ride. I checked everything. I even thought it was the water pump about to pack up. I spent ages over several weeks looking for the problem. Nothing! Then one morning when checking the tyre pressures i noticed a severe wear `groove` on the side of the tyre - just below the edge of the tread. It turned out that the `whine` i`d been having sleepless nights over was an inner fender bolt rubbing on the tyre once it had warmed up and expanded!! Upon checking it in more detail, there was hardly any gap at all between the tyre and inner mounting bolts of the `guard. Amazing bearing in mind that everythong was bog standard on the bike - except for the slightly overlength bolt holding the guard to the fork leg!
Cheers. Dave. :cheers:
Ahh if it's a clonk over bumps then it could be the fork bushes too.
Quote from: DP1400 on Monday, 02 November 2020, 03:31 AM
SA14 - I won`t reiterate what i`ve already said about the `ticking` noise!......
......your rear brake may need bleeding, it may need new pads, or it may need nothing doing. Don`t forget, you`ll hardly use it and its only for slowing you down, the last thing you want is a rear brake which `grabs`.
So, you have also noted a `rattle` at the front when going over bumps. Its likely to be unrelated to your caliper/pads, but something much more innocuous, ie. your brake lines simply moving within their clips?. The other obvious one is to check that your mudguard/fender is tight? Maybe your brake lines are clanging against your fender?
Think `unusual` vertical movement like going over bumps, then follow the parts which don`t `want` to move but have to, if that makes sense! Its amazing with vehicles that sometimes noises coming through don`t actually come from where you think they are eminating from!
As an aside, and not related to a `14, but to illustrate my point, my old GT750A Kettle developed a really strange whine at the front after a few miles each ride. I checked everything. I even thought it was the water pump about to pack up. I spent ages over several weeks looking for the problem. Nothing! Then one morning when checking the tyre pressures i noticed a severe wear `groove` on the side of the tyre - just below the edge of the tread. It turned out that the `whine` i`d been having sleepless nights over was an inner fender bolt rubbing on the tyre once it had warmed up and expanded!! Upon checking it in more detail, there was hardly any gap at all between the tyre and inner mounting bolts of the `guard. Amazing bearing in mind that everythong was bog standard on the bike - except for the slightly overlength bolt holding the guard to the fork leg!
Cheers. Dave. :cheers:
Thanks Dave, I had your comments above in mind yesterday actually both when I pulled over for a break and to see if I could isolate the rattling (as well as the clicking) and was grabbing the disc and giving it a good shake along with everything else as well as the "it's natural - don't worry about it" and the "when the disc gets hotter it'll be more pronounced" advice for which I'm grateful along with all the other advice people are giving me. I wasn't tearing my (3) hair(s) out or anything but if lowers my eyebrows I know it's a thing that's a bit more than natural noises. These are noises that I haven't noticed before. I did check all the small areas of possible rattle on the front end though including the brake hoses and their mounts. I gave everything a good check over and the only thing I could get a slight "ting ting" from was the pad springs but I don't think it that because my noise has more clack than that although I'll zip tie it once everything's buttoned up if that doesn't fix it
Just a bit of background; I've recently had the front wheel off to polish my forks and had all sorts of trouble getting the axle to line up again and when I finally got it all bolted together the front wheel would hardly spin. After watching a few of the Dave Moss and Delboy (which I've posted up in my signature thread below) I realise now that I've totally cocked up the front end and there's probably all sorts of minor misalignments going on which probably aren't helping matters.
I'm going to follow
@Steve porters point and I reckon my pistons have re-stuck themselves which would explain both rattles and while I'm at it I'm going to loosen everything up again and tighten it up properly including "the bounce" as detailed in both Dave Mosses and Delboys videos. I'm sure I've misaligned the rotors because I did notice my braking wasn't quite up to as beautiful as it was when I left my mechanic after he cleaned the calipers, released the stuck pistons and installed these new pads. The brakes were superb and they're not now.
I've also picked up on a point about the rear brake linkage not being lubed while I was looking at the "how to clean calipers" thread because it's definitely not as good as it was just a few rides ago. All these clues lead me to believe (and hope) that Steve's right. If as he suspects I have stuck pistons again it would explain the rattling as well as the poorer front brake performance which I definitely noticed on yesterday's long ride.
I'd actually like to fully rebuild all the brakes just to be sure. Can't find a thread on that yet. Must be one here somewhere.
Quote from: Hooli on Monday, 02 November 2020, 08:20 AM
Ahh if it's a clonk over bumps then it could be the fork bushes too.
Not as severe as a clonk. more like a tingle. Applying the brakes is definitely more of a clack than a tingle though. I did think of the fork seals though. Especially after the over heating while buffing warning from a member. I touched the second fork while polishing constantly though and they stayed quite cool. I'll start with a caliper clean and rear brake linkage lube. I reckon Steve's onto something along with the other supporting clues.
@SA14 Just to be clear - the thing I suggest, is helping in case off slow wheel rotating, without applying front brakes.
There is videos before and after:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JSeUCG58c47fZwKNA
Quote from: northern on Tuesday, 03 November 2020, 07:59 AM
@SA14 Just to be clear - the thing I suggest, is helping in case off slow wheel rotating, without applying front brakes.
There is videos before and after:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JSeUCG58c47fZwKNA
Aah, ok I see thanks for the clarification. I'm not getting that noise when rotating my wheels slowly by hand as shown in your video but that sounds exactly like the sound I get when I apply my brakes lightly on and off as I'm coming to a stop. EXACTLY. So that's interesting.
Love those forks and calipers too! I really want to paint (and at the same time overhaul) my calipers now. I want to make sure everything is as it should be. Thinking of braided lines at the same time. But that might have to wait. Still trying to find a video or instructions on how to overhaul the calipers. I think I can do it but never done it before. Might start with an inspection and clean to see if in fact I do have stuck pistons again. If I do the last unsticking only lasted a few hundred kms.
Just priced a front caliper rebuild kit at $135 per side with pistons. Tempted. Not sure about new bolts and pins though. Could probably use the existing bolts but new pins might be worth it just to be sure to be sure to be sure. I'd like to do it myself but don't have a compressor (yet) to blow out the pistons. Is it necessary or can I just pull them out by hand? I think I've got everything else I'll need. The kits come with some red grease - pretty sure but will check before I order. Was reading the manual and it looks less complicated than I imagined. Any gotchas to look out for?
I'm probably going to take a peak inside again to see if there are any stuck pistons and to investigate that noise again before I do but I'd like to have great brakes so I'm keen to give it a go and this time I'll button everything up correctly. Was thinking of buying some paddock stands too.
It's be rare to need pistons as well, they're stainless & usually clean up fine. Usually just a seal kit & bolts & pad pin can be brought locally or on line. Lots change to SS caphead (allen key) bolts on the caliper, me included.
Quote from: SA14 on Tuesday, 03 November 2020, 05:15 PM
Just priced a front caliper rebuild kit at $135 per side with pistons. Tempted. Not sure about new bolts and pins though. Could probably use the existing bolts but new pins might be worth it just to be sure to be sure to be sure. I'd like to do it myself but don't have a compressor (yet) to blow out the pistons. Is it necessary or can I just pull them out by hand? I think I've got everything else I'll need. The kits come with some red grease - pretty sure but will check before I order. Was reading the manual and it looks less complicated than I imagined. Any gotchas to look out for?
I'm probably going to take a peak inside again to see if there are any stuck pistons and to investigate that noise again before I do but I'd like to have great brakes so I'm keen to give it a go and this time I'll button everything up correctly. Was thinking of buying some paddock stands too.
I used a combination of clamps and Tyre levers to hold back all but one piston at a time, couple of squeezes on the brake lever to pop one out a bit, clean with brake cleaner and a soft wire brush, push in and out a couple of times and move on the the next piston
Here ya go Baz, this is what's in there & what to aim for . . .
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=3955.0
Have a look first Mate. Pistons might be ok, we dont get harsh conditions like UK. Seal kit is around $50 both sides. Bolts n slides will be good. Be careful removing bleeders, clean up threads and never seize or similar. Rubber grease is cheap. Fitting pads i use CRC Disc Quiet onto ends where they clip in. Great product, we use on every pad fitted at work. Above advice is all good. Fitting back on, finger tight bolts, squeeze lever to flatten pad pressure, then torque bolts. Just my way, if im wrong with anything , let me no fellas.
The disc quiet grog, haven't heard of it, is it a paste?
https://www.crcindustries.com/products/disc-brake-quiet-4-fl-oz-05016.html
I've always used copper grease, on advice a million years ago, but that would undoubtedly be better, something else to get for the shelf
Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 03 November 2020, 07:22 PM
https://www.crcindustries.com/products/disc-brake-quiet-4-fl-oz-05016.html
Thanks for the heads up, Got some and used it on the superduke today, can definitely see the benefits over copper grease
Sheet! Forgot to update this thread.
So I was over at
@Throttle 's place while he was doing stoppies to test my brakes for me and to compare them against his and I mentioned this sound as it was still present even after the caliper overhaul I did. He suspected he knew what it was but got down on his knees and asked me to replicate it. It was as loud as ever and then he found it. It's as Grog suspected. the pads are just a bit loose in the caliper. He suggested the caliper squeak stop (which is a thick rubbery paste) as a few dabs on the leading edges and across the back will take up the gaps and keep them from moving around.
I haven't actually bought any yet but
I was able to see the pads sliding up (a tiny but visible amount) knocking on the top of the pad against the caliper then dropping back down after release. That's what the clacking sound is. Happy to have gone through the caliper rebuild learning process (after much encouragement and borrowed faith). I detailed it in my restoration thread in my signature but here's the hero pic.
Special thanks to all and especially to
@Throttle who went above and beyond in dropping in to help me unstick a very stuck piston.
Told ya it was a pad wobbling!
Wait till your calipers have some miles on and really rattle. You can see where the pads rub on mine as a good 1mm has been removed from the caliper at each end of the 'hole' the pads go in.
Every now & then I consider getting the faces smoothed off & fixing a small strip of steel or something on there to sort it. I'll probably never do it though.
Yeah. The sun was shining and causing just the right shadow and I could actually see them physically picking up and dropping back down. That was the clincher. It just didn't sound like a noise a modern machine should be making. On the bight side you pushed me to rebuild my calipers and that was a good thing. Today I'll go and buy some CRC brake stuff and hopefully I'll put this to rest once and for all.
Onto other things.
SA, it will stop them moving.
Purchased this afternoon.
That was the solution. :boogie: Today off came the calipers again, on went the slurp and yeah, I put too much on and got it everywhere but it wiped up good and worked a treat. Took it for a ride around town for a few hours this evening, didn't hear a single klack, ting, ding or dong.
Thanks (once again!) to ALL and especially to
@Throttle. You guys are pushing and supporting me to do things I never ever thought I'd attempt.
I'm happy I went on those wild goose chases though. I discovered the loose pad which was off the pin and learned how to rebuild my own Tokico 6 pot calipers which is something I never thought I'd ever even attempt let along complete for the cost of grease alone. I now have firm progressive confidence inspiring brakes that are better than it's ever been.
Result.
Quote from: Hooli on Monday, 26 October 2020, 08:25 PM
They all do that sir. Some makes of pad are worse than others for it, EBC seem to be one of the worst I've found.
It's the play top & bottom of the pad in the calliper, so when you put the brakes on they lift slightly with the rotation of the disk & click as it tap the top of the hole in the calliper. Then drop down again when released.
Just wanted to acknowledge that you nailed it right off the bat and early on - first guess. Nice work. I didn't listen though did I?...lol