Hi guys,
I want to improve my gsx K5 (upgraded version with exhaust system 4-to-1). I have now Yoshimura dual oval with serial headers + air filter from Pipercross + PCIII USB. Tuned altogether on dyno. I have installed the quick throttle by means of installing of aluminium ring into the OEM throttle grip in order to increase the reel radius. Highly recommended easy and cheap upgrade with perfect result :)
I want to upgrade exhaust system now.
Akrapovic full system– race line – out of sell. I was not able to find new available piece on market.
Yoshimura full system titanium cyclone – it was my favourite choice for me. I found some distributors on ebay from UK.
Is this model available for K5 and higher years?
Bodis full system – new type for me (I found it on internet)
Link: https://bodis-exhaust.com/artikel.php?model=48
The presented graph shows very nice result and peak in comparison with Yoshi one (see website). The price for European market is quite friendly.
Did somebody installed the Bodis exhaust system or any experience? The system especially headers is made fully from stainless steel instead of yoshimura titan headers. I read on forums that Akra or Yoshi are the only right ways.
So I would be sure before I spent quite a bit of money that Bodis system is really comparable alternative to Yoshi system which is still my preference.
Thank very much for sharing of your experience.
Akra or Yoshi are not the only right ways. Try Proboost system, it gives better torq. https://www.proboost.fi/motorcycle-turbo-kits?lightbox=dataItem-ij5cafrf
:)
I want to improve just the power and acceleration above 5.000 rpm not to built rocket on the two wheels :grin:
I've never heard of Boshi.
I know over the years on here the most power comes from Yoshi, followed by Akra. The Yoshi makes oil changes a main though as it blocks access to the oil filter.
TBH, having ridden standard 14s back to back with mine (Akra, PCIII & custom map) it's not a huge obvious difference as they have so much torque normally.
To get more top end you'd be better off fitting Yoshi cams & then getting it dynoed. But obviously with the exhaust you want on it already.
My goal is to improve a little bit the power above 5.000 rpm and shift the power peak let say to the 7.000 rpm. It means to prolong the progressive acceleration of the bike for some hundreds or thousands rpm higher.
I have the dyno chart for my existing stage (just Yoshi dual oval muffler+PCIII) and there is totally flat power curve between 5.000 and 7.000 rpm. Above 7.000 rpm the power curve drops rapidly down. My feeling copies my real dyno chart. I am now on 102 HP on rear wheel and about 129 Nm on rear wheel. 100 HP is round 5.000 rpm.
I have seen on the dynos on Yoshimura websites and now on Bodis pages (Germany's Bodis is alo new alternative for me) that this area between 5k and 7k could be improved by aftermarket exhaust full systems since larger inner diameter of the exhaust pipes. The dyno graphs shows the modification of the power curve (at 5.000 rpm still steeply continues above) as I would.
Above 5000rpm in top and you'll be needing better suspension or at least upgrading what you have .
Good luck I'll follow your progress . :cheers:
If it's of any help deciding, this was my dyno with Akrapovic, PCIII & custom map. The torque peaks just under 6k.
That was 101k miles ago now, I sometimes wonder if it's still got all those horses, but not enough to pay to find out as it feels like they are all still there.
My dyno. As I wrote totally flat above 5.5000 rpm. I hope that open exhaust system will make the top more "peaked".
GSX1400 160HP PLUS
Overbored to 1620cc using special custom built forged pistons, Yoshimura 4:1 full exhaust system and LA cast iron sleeves, Yoshimura Cams, PTR flowed and fully ported cylinder head, Dynojet power commander, or Woolich Racing ECU reflash and Dyno Tune, K&N or BMC hi flow air filters, PTR modified air box, PTR modified throttle bodies including all machinework to cylinders and crankcases, Dyno tune custom remap.
Total ride in and ride out from $11,500.00
Here ya go Tainton gsx1400, 160 + HP , that'll do it !!!!!
Quote from: Roo on Saturday, 17 October 2020, 01:26 PM
GSX1400 160HP PLUS
Overbored to 1620cc using special custom built forged pistons, Yoshimura 4:1 full exhaust system and LA cast iron sleeves, Yoshimura Cams, PTR flowed and fully ported cylinder head, Dynojet power commander, or Woolich Racing ECU reflash and Dyno Tune, K&N or BMC hi flow air filters, PTR modified air box, PTR modified throttle bodies including all machinework to cylinders and crankcases, Dyno tune custom remap.
Total ride in and ride out from $11,500.00
Here ya go Tainton gsx1400, 160 + HP , that'll do it !!!!!
I'd say so. Can't think of spending that sort of money on any other type of bike but a 14 deserves some special treatment for sure. Obviously a keeper.
I would recommed the modification below to anybody. The reaction of the bike on the twist of the throttle is amazing. Bike sprints ahead without any delay. It paids especially for GSX when the bike needs turn more than half throttle if you want to speed up quickly.
You need just short piece of aluminimum pipe with correct diameter. The thorttle cables do not need to be exchanged.
I'm after an yoshimura 4-2-1 system with handbend titanium headers (not to be confused with the 4-1 system!!)
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.yoshimura-jp.com%2Ffiles%2Fimg1%2F1460015523_a02a4a102c6b3b2e05403b909bd765eb.jpg&hash=1ce0ad107f621d9c184e1db335b3eae64fa0aeab)
It's not being made anymore but I really love the handbend look vs the machine bent titanium one. Also the part where it goes from 2 in 1 pipe just behind the footpeg looks so cool and really makes the bike look racy.
@Markys I've seen a few different ways of doing this .
Yours is very neat indeed.
Could you put up sizes so others can follow.
Cheers
Raw material of the manufactured ring which I used was standard aluminium tube of dimensions:
Output diameter of tube: 45 mm
Inner diameter of tube: 39 mm
-- Thickness of the wall 3 mm
Width of the ring same as width of accelerator pulley (as on previous picture). Necessary to keep this width. Total tolerance of 1 mm plus is acceptable.
This Outer diameter of 45 mm is maximal since I had to rasp little bit the small protrusion inside the accelerator aluminium body for 1 mm in order to achieve smooth movement of whole assembly. But you know – bigger outer diameter = quicker reaction of the throttle. :grin:
The outer diameter of accelerator pulley is 40 mm. So the inner diameter of the tube should be 40 mm. Since the ring has to be cut for assembly onto the pulley it is not difficult to insert such cut ring of diameter 39 mm onto the 40 mm pulley. The ring is better fixed on its place in this case.
Thanks Mate. Much cheaper than getting R1 throttle for same result. You dont find it too abrupt, doesnt make it too touchy.
So full race exhaust system from Bodis delivered to my garage. :grin:
Manufacturing seems professional and pieces fit together very precisely.
The diameter of inlet manifolds tubes is round 36 mm in comparison with 26 mm of OEM Suzuki manifolds.
The diameter of outlet centre tube in position of connection to muffler/silencer is about 60 mm in comparison with 35 mm of OEM Suzuki centre exhaust pipe. I know now that OEM exhaust system especially manifolds are the stopper of the power and culprit of the flat shape of the power curve in middle rpms.
Bodis set contains the DB killer too.
Changing of oil filter will be possible without exhaust manifolds dismantling and centre stand could stay on its place since the pipes copy the OEM shape.
Low bracket of exhaust centre tube under the engine block uses the same junction point as serial manifolds and bracket has its deformation zone so you can bent it as you need for smooth connection.
I will see the reliability and durability of the product next season.
I made short test ride. The difference especially above 5.000 rpm is really noticeable. The bike accelerates up above 6.000 rpm now rapidly as I wanted. I feel much more power. :clapping:
I had precise setting for my config of PCIII + Air filter Pipercross + OEM manifold + Yoshi dual oval silencer.
Do you have your own experience if re-mapping of my PCIII is necessary now?
Delkievic is worth to be considered, also
https://delkevic.co.uk/s/Suzuki/GSX1400%20/2002
Quote from: Athelstanexxx on Monday, 09 November 2020, 06:12 PM
Delkievic is worth to be considered, also
https://delkevic.co.uk/s/Suzuki/GSX1400%20/2002
I wonder what they have against the 2006,7,8 models?
Bodis looks good, $500 cheaper than Yoshi. Still adds up over 3g Aust, PC, and Dyno.
Quote from: SA14 on Monday, 09 November 2020, 07:29 PM
Quote from: Athelstanexxx on Monday, 09 November 2020, 06:12 PM
Delkievic is worth to be considered, also
https://delkevic.co.uk/s/Suzuki/GSX1400%20/2002
I wonder what they have against the 2006,7,8 models?
They probably released it in 2005, it'll fit though.
Quote from: Hooli on Monday, 09 November 2020, 11:09 PM
They probably released it in 2005, it'll fit though.
That's a relief because after feeling the extra low end punch on
@Throttle 's full Akropovic system I've got my search lights on. I noticed it in first gear on a normal take off. Didn't even give it much throttle. I was surprised because I (mistakenly) thought that these exhaust systems only added mid and top end power. Not so.
TBH that's probably the custom map as much as anything. I noticed a similar difference on mine when it went from Akra system & downloaded PC3 map to Akra system with a custom dyno map.
I just ran a quick fact check and can confirm it's pure exhaust.
Quote"STD Fueling and full Akrapovic pipe".
I felt a noticeable difference and I'd just come off riding mine so it was a fresh comparison and it sounded super chunky and full of growl. I'm a fan.
@Markys Go to dyno now.
You shoud also remap iginition and fuelling - if you want perfect way
You will have more power - this is obvious but also obvious is this that you will have less torque in low range of rpms
Upgrade suspension and brakes - this is very important thing, for me more important than have a more power in our GSX :)
@Donatello If oy want something like yoshi hand bend - there are few companies in Japan still doing exhaust like that. But price is verrrrrry high.
Hope I will arrange my trip to dyno during the next two weeks.
I went through the PCIII maps available on Dynojet pages. I found that the saved presented maps are totally different. Similar settings as open silencer and OEM manifolds or full race systems and different PCIII maps. It is strange and seems that optimal settings could differ for particular bikes. Some maps have at the same area negative value some positive value.
Regarding shocks - it is true that it is weak point. I feel that the steering and damping is nervous.
Do you have any recomendation for shocks improvement? I have installed progressive front spring inside and had increased the front tube oil level in order to achieve right dynamic sag on the front because I was not able to adjust lower dynamic sag that 60mm before. The sag is now correctly adjusted to about 45 mm but the result is bouncy front wheel. My tip was sterring damper but maybe it is wrong way.
just out of curiosity, has anyone done a dyno overlay of before and after full system compared to stock on the same Dyno ?
I can do you a before & after custom dyno map on an Akra system. No other changes except the map & about 40k mileage as the rollers broke when it was tuned & took me ages to go back for the power run to find out the figures.
Quote from: Markys on Wednesday, 11 November 2020, 05:50 AM
Hope I will arrange my trip to dyno during the next two weeks.
I went through the PCIII maps available on Dynojet pages. I found that the saved presented maps are totally different. Similar settings as open silencer and OEM manifolds or full race systems and different PCIII maps. It is strange and seems that optimal settings could differ for particular bikes. Some maps have at the same area negative value some positive value.
Regarding shocks - it is true that it is weak point. I feel that the steering and damping is nervous.
Do you have any recomendation for shocks improvement? I have installed progressive front spring inside and had increased the front tube oil level in order to achieve right dynamic sag on the front because I was not able to adjust lower dynamic sag that 60mm before. The sag is now correctly adjusted to about 45 mm but the result is bouncy front wheel. My tip was sterring damper but maybe it is wrong way.
Check the years of the maps you're looking at too. K2-K4 run rich as standard, K5 onwards go lean.
As for the steering damper, I'd check the steering bearings even if they feel ok as the bottom one often rusts. Then fork oil, I can't say mine has ever felt like it's needed a damper when things are working right.
Quote from: Markys on Wednesday, 11 November 2020, 05:50 AM
Hope I will arrange my trip to dyno during the next two weeks.
I went through the PCIII maps available on Dynojet pages. I found that the saved presented maps are totally different. Similar settings as open silencer and OEM manifolds or full race systems and different PCIII maps. It is strange and seems that optimal settings could differ for particular bikes. Some maps have at the same area negative value some positive value.
Regarding shocks - it is true that it is weak point. I feel that the steering and damping is nervous.
Do you have any recomendation for shocks improvement? I have installed progressive front spring inside and had increased the front tube oil level in order to achieve right dynamic sag on the front because I was not able to adjust lower dynamic sag that 60mm before. The sag is now correctly adjusted to about 45 mm but the result is bouncy front wheel. My tip was sterring damper but maybe it is wrong way.
45mm of SAG front and rear is the highest option for street use - we are talking about rider sag.
Static SAG on front should be 15-25 mm. Rear 5-15 (ofcourse it depends of your skills and style of riding)
If you are riding hard - this sag (45mm) could be too soft for you. It is comfortable and good for easy touring ride.
Rear shocks - you have a few options - OHLINS, MUPO, NITRON, HYPERPRO, MAXTON, WILBERS and SHOWA ADVANTAGE - top products. If you have less money YSS is also good option :)
Front suspension - if you have progressive springs put good oil for you and look also for oil level. If you will find optimal solution the steering damper isn't necessary.
I have a slightly different opinion on the steering damper. On my bike I have rebuilded original rear shocks and wilber progresive springs in front shocks. I don't have a jack up kit on it or lowered front shocks and so on....
I dare say that the shock absorbers work perfectly, BUT.
But at very high speeds (over 200km/h) on a worse surface is the bike slightly nervous. With a steering dumper is bike still smooth. Unfortunately, I still don't have the damper finally solved. So far, I'm not happy with the rigidity of the attachment (side mounting).
BR Vici
Jack up kit negatively affects the stability in higher speed (above 150 kmh). This disanvantage displayes also during hard acceleration above speed 150 kmh. But I can live with it. I can compare since I have noticed the change in bahaviour just after installation of kit. The kit helped to quick response of the steering much. You are sitting more above the handlebars, you can feel the front wheel and this is more convenient for sport rides when you are enjoying the turns.
The cons is different position of axis: front-rear sprockets and position of swingarm with result of grinding of rubber buffer / chain touch defense by chain ... I had to due this cons change my sprockets 17/41 for 18/43 in order to extend the diameter of chain-sprocket set. The second cosmetic one is that I cannot use center stand on flat surface.
My sag measured as difference between total releasement of shock and compression with rider onboard is front / rear: 4,5 mm / 30 mm.
Rear shock seems to be OK.
Front forks are very stiff and bouncy. I will try to play with "compression damping" and "rebound damper" adjusters. Try to soften them.
Quote from: Markys on Friday, 13 November 2020, 03:39 AM
My sag measured as difference between total releasement of shock and compression with rider onboard is front / rear: 4,5 mm / 30 mm.
Rear shock seems to be OK.
Front forks are very stiff and bouncy. I will try to play with "compression damping" and "rebound damper" adjusters. Try to soften them.
4,5 mm? this can't have a place...
You have to hange your SAG and correct rebound/damping.
Rear 30mm for street use is little to stiff...
For first try to take a balance of motorcycle and set the same SAG's front and rear. Then you have a point to modyficate suspension for your own style of riding. But for a lot of people 35-45 front and rear is good for day by day use. Ofcourse you have also set rebound and compression. Remember - we don't want a "pogo" situation and very important is free sag on rear shock.
Good luck.
Sorry for type error. Not 4,5 mm but 45 mm of course. :P
I have tested the top speed after installation of full race Bodys exhaust system (previous equipment was serial OEM manifolds +Yoshi dual oval). Top speed is not important on gsx but it is good parameter for comparison of improvement.
I was on about 225 kmh with serial manifolds and now I am on 235 kmh. Bike runs with gear ratio of 18/43 while speedometer is corrected by speedohealer to real speed (adjusted 12,3% as per GPS measured data).
Seems as good improvement. I am looking forward for result of planed re-mapping. :clapping:
What's the access like to the oil filter with the bodis downpipes ?
A picture would be great if you could .
:cheers:
The access to oil filter is plus minus the same as by original. There is space up to 80 mm between second and third pipe. I can easily insert my hand to oil filter position so it seems than I will able to remove the filter with pipes put on.
Sooo I have finished the tuning on dyno.
Below two graphs for comparision.
dyno with previous config: mapped PC111+air filter Pipercross+OEM headers+yoshi dual oval + OEM camshafts - 103HP / 130Nm
dyno with my new config: mapped PC111+air filter Pipercross+full Bodis system + OEM camshafts - 128HP/138Nm
The bike is much quicker in acceleration and it is funny now to rev up the engine up to 8.000 rpms. :)
Mate, that is a brilliant result. Lots of power for stock cams.
of course, the numbers are on the engine (bhp) not the numbers on the wheel (rwhp).
Impressive is the difference which I can feel now in all acceleration modes. :clapping:
Maybe it helps somebody to make a choice and install any race exhaust manifolds. :)
This is very good resoult on stock cams :onya: