My new Healtech GiPro with ATR arrived yesterday and today I was out in the shed trying to figure out how to wire it up. It's pretty basic, plug and play the plug and find switched power to the red wire using the splicer thing. But I have questions.
1) First of all for those who are wondering (like I was) does the handlebar mount actually fit on the handlebars? The answer is yes - just. See pics
2) The cables are hell long!
3) Where to find switched power.
So with the mounting position sorted (I can always revert to sticking in on the flat area of aluminium just under the tacho) I'm faced with this really long wiring loom. What the heck? Am I going to loop it and tuck it in somewhere? I have no choice I spose but any suggestions would be appreciated on how and where to place the looped excess cable.
Now onto the switched power. I read where some suggested using the horn because it's handy, out in the open and a double plug adapter (thingy) can be crimped on and that would indeed make a nice neat solution but that would mean looping the red power wire back up the bike and onto the horn terminals. Is that how I'd do it? Seems convoluted but if you all nod then that's what I'll do.
Failing that I have the fuse box and all that wiring just sitting there waiting to be spliced into. Is it just me or does splicing using that cutting splice thing really the best way to do this. Seems a bit destructive and if cutting into the wire seems a bit fragile and a potential wiring weak point to me. If you say "nah it'll be fine" than I'll do it but I just wanted to pause and ask first.
In the photos you can see where I snipped then pulled the wire out of the blue wire tap that the grip warmers where attached to. They used the "fuel" wire. I presume that's fuel pump? But that's now "occupied" with the blue wire tap so can't be used again. What other wire there can I use to splice/cut into? The instructions suggest "tapping into the Orange/Green wire at the 2-pole rear brake light switch connector or at the diagnostic connector" but I'm not sure where or even what either of those two are.
Or should I just double the red wire (which is really really thin!) back up to the horn and use a double headed terminal to hook up to the clutch side horn? That red power wire seems awfully thin to use a crimping tool (which I'd have to buy). The kit does supply the wire tap.
Just went out to do some more searching while I wait for your advice and found a thick orange wire with a thin green stripe. Is this the one they mean? Not sure what's "two poles" about it but there it is - I think.
Edit: I think that's what they mean by "at the diagnostic connector". Am I getting warm?
Diagnostic connector is around there somewhere, it's a two pin white connector with nowt in it on my K2. Not sure if it changed on later bikes.
Personally I've soldered on to the solid orange wire near the fusebox as a pre-fuse switched supply. I use that to trigger a relay that powers all my accessories direct off the battery. Bit of overkill for your needs though.
Update as I knew we had a thread on it, you've found the right wire as detailed here https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=744.0
Excellent thanks!
Taken from the other thread (thanks
@froudy !) I'll post that pic here in case anyone else reads this thread in the future.
Quote from: froudy on Thursday, 16 March 2017, 09:50 PM
Just done this for you Vlad if it's any help?
Can't believe how dirty that plug is considering I just rebuilt the bike...Shame on me :shocked:
There are only 4 wires going into the plug.
1.Black/White...To Dealer Mode Switch -ve.
2.White/Red.. To Dealer Mode Switch.
3.Grey/Red... Ignition switched 7.5V +ve.
4. Orange/Green...Ignition switched 12V +ve.
I'll use that one. Thanks again
@Hooli . You're helping me a lot on this bike.
So with regards to the 168 miles of wiring loom just "don't be such a baby and loop it up and shove it anywhere it fits"?
Aye I'd just loop it, easier than cutting & joining it. You could just run it back & forth under the tank in a big Z to use up the slack. Tied onto the main loom it'll be hidden & secure. My heated grip feed is like that as I couldn't be bothered to cut the plugs off & join everything. In the case of my grips it keeps the plugs connected as they aren't a waterproof design too.
Cool, I'm a gunna do it. Thanks for y'all help. I'll be back with a (hopefully programmed) lit up display.
Man, that witebtap was tight to get to and I don't feel too confident about it but I squeezed as hard as I could with the pliers and I have power so it must have tapped in.
But now I'm not sure I'm in love with the position. Seems too "divorced" from the instrumentation. I'll get it working for now then see about moving it. There's enough slack in the loom to move it under the tachometer if I decide later.
All done and buttoned up. Even started her up (after midnight in the shed with the headlight blaring...don't get me started) and cycled through the gears and the unit already knew what gear I was in. I thought I had to program it by revving up to 3-4k and holding it there on the centre stand in each gear but nope, it already knew what gear I was in. Cycled it up and down a few times and (to celebrate) even tried to shift into 7th gear but for some strange reason it wasn't there :boogie:
Adjusted the brightness to one level below standard. Default brightness is 4, 9 is permanently the brightest, I set it to 3. I then selected 7 for GSX1400 in the TRE mode [see pic below]. That last paragraph (except the last sentence) confuses me and I've not been able to get a straight answer as to what each level does. They state to try different modes to see which one works for the bike but they don't mention what the differences are. I've asked both Hungary (support@) as well as Superbike Supply who I bought it off and Hungary never answers the question and SS doesn't know.
Anyway, it's raining out and my local race track is closed so I'll have to wait to test it but I can't wait. I hope it doesn't do an accidental wheelie [insert eek! here]. I can always switch it off until my skills improve and just enjoy the gear indicator but I know how to ride slow and I'll start off that way just as if it had more power to begin with.
Thanks one and all. Especially
@grog and
@Hooli - your support is magnificent.
My advise is to get rid of that bloody scotchlock and do a proper soldered or crimped joint.
Quote from: VladTepes on Wednesday, 30 September 2020, 08:34 AM
My advise is to get rid of that bloody scotchlock and do a proper soldered or crimped joint.
I agree. I wasn't filled with confidence and was surprised they suggested it to be honest, I hated slicing into factory wiring like that. I know it introduces a week spot and a chance for corrosion to get into a vital part of the electrics but I've also known them to work for years. Not on an exposed motorcycle though (only in cars). I won't be riding in the rain on purpose but it still makes me nervous. Problem is it's in there now so I'd have to do some disassembly and unwrapping the wire to repair it with shrink tube. I'd have felt a bit better if I could have had good access but it was so tight in there that I was literally surprised when it worked.
Must learn how to solder and do electrical work properly. Might at least put a few dabs of silicone on there to waterproof it a bit.
SA14 I fitted mine tonight and will put the tank etc on in the morning.
I was setting it up in the TRE mode and found the unit far from sensitive to the touch, shithouse actually. How was yours or have I got an average one.
Anyone else feel free to chime in with how sensitive your unit is to adjust, just touch it or punch it through the bike.
Quote from: SFC1000 on Monday, 26 October 2020, 10:34 PM
SA14 I fitted mine tonight and will put the tank etc on in the morning.
I was setting it up in the TRE mode and found the unit far from sensitive to the touch, shithouse actually. How was yours or have I got an average one.
Anyone else feel free to chime in with how sensitive your unit is to adjust, just touch it or punch it through the bike.
Excellent! You're going to love it. Actually I found mine to be a bit insensitive (no, it didn't call me chubby). I presume you're referring to the touch sensor on the top to adjust through the menu. Although I did end up with it displaying the numbers upside down at one stage...lol I looked down and thought "oh no! What does E mean?!" It was an upside down 3.
But being touch sensitive I imagine it's our various electrical differences that make it touchy or insensitive. Once you set it up you'll never have to touch it again.
Did it read your gears automatically out of the box? Mine did, thought that was cool.
It didn't read the gears, only neutral and 1st, every other gear was 1.
After the TRE, I was going to set it to learn, but couldn't get back into it as the touch pad wasn't a touch pad, maybe a house brick.
I rang the distributor and explained I couldn't get into the menu and he's sending me another one with a prepaid satchel to return the other as he said they do have some problem units and the way he said it I felt there are more than a couple coming back.
I can't complain about the response though.
Thats a real bummer Mate. Mine fitted on easily, has worked perfectly for maybe 5 years. Im sure theyll sort it.
Yeah, that's not right. Mine worked perfectly right out of the box so should yours. It's an official Healtech product? With little labeled plastic bags, stickers and manual? Did you get the G2 with ATRE?
I got mine from SuperbikeSupplies.
https://superbikesupply.com.au/collections/healtech/products/healtech-gear-indicator-gipro-atre-g2
It's a GIpro ATRE G2 and I looked up Healtech for distributors and found Mototrack Accessories.
I did this for this very reason as I have found with other items in the past the factory distributors normally give no grief when things go wrong and Steve from Mototrack https://mototrack.com.au/ (https://mototrack.com.au/) has been great.
I did the same, went from their list of Aussie distributors. I went with the one who responded to my facebook message and we had a great conversation. Pre-sales service is really important to me. I always try to give as much as I can so when I get it from others I favour them. Not good to hear that faulty units are making their way out of the factory but good that he's sending you a replacement.
Must be deflating though. It really changed my riding experience because I'm new back on a bike after a very long time (many decades) without one and with all the torque of these monsters I was never quite sure what gear I was in. Found myself reaching for 7th which wasn't a problem but downshifting into first when not needed was a bit of a pain and the ATRE was instantly noticeable. Totally used to it now, couldn't imagine being without it now.
Have you disabled your PAIRS? The ATRE and PAIRS delete make a great package, really smooth the bike out, adds more power down low (not that it needed it) and I'm sure it growls just a little bit more than it did when I first got it.
You learn something every day.
Searched PAIRS on here and then went over to the shed and took it all out, even the reeds. Kept the stock covers.
I could of made up blank off plates as I have plenty of alloy and steel here, but didn't see the need.
I have plenty of vacuum plugs of all sizes and used these where needed with stock clips.
Anyway job done.
Yeah, tonnes of info in this place. The experienced guys are really helping folks like me who are keen but clueless.
I just stuck a ball bearing into the air box hose. Same effect. I noticed a difference in smoothness. Shifts like an automatic now.
The second gear indicator came and the touch pad works a treat, sensitive in fact.
The problem I have is it didn't recognise the gears out of the box and won't learn the gears.
In learn mode it recognises 1st gear, tells you to go to 2nd gear, but won't go past this stage.
I have done this both on the centre stand and up the road.
I have checked the voltage values per factory spec from the gear selector switch and it's OK.
I have checked the pins in the plug in connectors and there are no bent pins.
It is wired to a 12V switched power wire including when the kill switch is on or off at the fuse box.
This wire supplies power throughout the bike.
I rang the distributor and he said to email Healtech about it.
If they can't come up with a reason it will go back with the first one in the prepaid bag they sent and I'll get a refund.
Thought a gear indicator and timing retard would be good, but I have ridden all my life without one and don't need these dramas over a indicator.
Oh man, that sucks. Two failures in a row seems odd. I want to say maybe the fault could be in some electrical issues on your bike but you've been through all that by the looks of it. Like I said, mine worked straight out of the box. I was surprised as I was expecting to have to go through the learning experience so mine was a truly hassle free experience except for using the weird wire joiner. I'm not sure what to suggest. Hopefully some of the more experienced guys will chip in with things you can try.
In my opinion it's worth persisting though. You can get a simple ATRE from some guy in Perth (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Auto-TRE-SUZUKI-Timing-Retard-Eliminator-GSX1400-Smart-ATRE-GSX-1400/372342747762) if that's what you mostly want but having the gears numbered has really helped me get to know the bike and how each gear is best suited to what conditions but I'm a fresh rider coming back onto a bike after 35 years off the sadle so I need a few aids to alleviate some of the stress I was feeling with such a mighty bike. I did find not knowing what gear I was in particularly unnerving though. You have more experience so you might not have that issue. I wouldn't do with out my gear indicator are ATRE now though. It's made a huge difference to me and I think the way the bike feels.
Speaking of that, have you managed to set the ATRE to number 7 yet? Played with the brightness? Does that all work? If it does it might be worth going for a spin anyway to see if you can notice any difference in the way the engine feels and performs. It's silly having the gear indicator on there if it's not going to indicate gears but if everything else functions as it should it may give you a reason to persist with the gear indicator function.
Changed to number 7 no problems and left everything else how it was. The set brightness is OK with me.
I was thinking something amiss on my bike too, but a bad batch wouldn't be unheard of either.
If Healtech don't get back to me, I won't persist, not interested, just return.
Quote from: SFC1000 on Tuesday, 03 November 2020, 01:36 PM
Changed to number 7 no problems and left everything else how it was. The set brightness is OK with me.
I was thinking something amiss on my bike too, but a bad batch wouldn't be unheard of either.
If Healtech don't get back to me, I won't persist, not interested, just return.
And that would be fair enough too. Their support will get back to you when they wake up in Poland. They'll get back to you for sure. They got back to me and we bounced a few emails back and forth. They will want to help at least to the limit if your patience.
Healtech got back to me and said the checks I did were OK and try them again, also re route away from the harness and other electrical items.
Bit hard to do when all you have is a frame tube with a harness beside it. They may think it's a 747.
The only other thing they suggested was to wire it direct to the positive battery terminal.
I sent it back to Mototrack in the prepaid bag he sent me and once received they will refund.
I went with slotting the timing plate for more advance and that has worked fine.
I also reset the TPS.
The bike responded by wanting to pick up the front wheel on gear changes.