As some of you already know I bought my 2008 after having sat for 5 years, the last 3 years on flat (or very low pressure) tyres, different front and different rear tyres so today I went to "local motorcycle tyre shop" (South Australia) and had two matching Michelin Power 5s fitted. They look fantastic and I expect will preform well too (especially given my initial slow riding style). That tread pattern is really something else. Saw them on here and when I asked him what tyres he recommended for me he asked my budget, I said "open". In that case - he said...defo go the Power 5s!
While I was there they noticed my brake pads were a little low on the rear. They'd fit a new set and zap the labour charge if I did them right then and there. When I bought the bike the previous owner said he'd fitted "racer style" brakes and warned me they'd need warming up befre they worked properly. Not sure how true that is because they seemed to stop fine to me but I'm in the mood for refreshing everything I can on a new vehicle so I told them to fit "standard style" pads as I wanted to restore the bike back to as close as factory as possible because I wanted to know what the bike felt like new.
So they chose EBC pads. Organic for the rear and scintered for the fronts. Brakes are amazing now and the slightest pull on the lever and they really grip! I had to be really careful on the ride home both because of the new "slipperyness" of the new tyres for the first 150km but also because it wanted to throw me over the handlebars. Must admit, I was a bit heavier on the rear brakes than the front. Only did about 12kms on the ride home after taking a detour along the winding road that follows our city river (Torrens). I was pushing the bars left and right for that (slight) "swerve" action (super low speeds - never over 60kmh) but plan on going up into the magnificent Adelaide hills as soon as I can to try and get some side scrubbing too.
But here's the thing; I'm not a racer so I'm hoping I can get some "how to treat new tyres and brakes for the first 150km if you're not a racer" advice. You guys have been so hgelpful and spot on with everything so far so let's hear it. Keep in mind I'm a returning rider and respectful as hell with the power on this planet-puller of an engine. Haven't ridden or worked on a bike since 1985...lol so I'm not likely to be rubbing elbows on the ashphalt any time soon - if ever. How can I scrub the tyres if I'm never leaning that far? I actually thought of rubbing them down with some fine sand paper... #lolatnoob.
and now...pics!
P.S. While at "local motorcycle tyre shop" they also checked my swing arm bearing and head stem bearing and both were fine although they said the front wheel bearings and barely just beginning to rumble a little bit - need changing asap. Will go back and do it next week probably. They also suggested I pay the local suspension guru to set the bike up for my weight and riding style and maybe get a set of progressive springs for the front forks. Total cost for suspension setup $50 which is a bargain I reckon.
Scrubbing new tyres in is easy, just ride normally but without pushing things too far, after about 20 miles you can start going a little quicker and leaning a little more. It is about putting in a couple of heat cycles into the tyre and gradually leaning on the tyre so that you just gradually get to all the tread. Do not put full power into the tyre until it's scrubbed in and don't do it when leaned over for at least 100 miles (150kms) ish. Same thing with the brakes really, start off gently until you get used to them and gradually increase the pressure until you feel they are doing their job, avoid sudden full pressure use.
mjgt, Pretty much perfect way. Fit, go gentle for a while, then just use them. Works for me, you also by your post. :clapping: :clapping:
Quote from: mjgt on Tuesday, 08 September 2020, 06:50 PM
Scrubbing new tyres in is easy, just ride normally but without pushing things too far, after about 20 miles you can start going a little quicker and leaning a little more. It is about putting in a couple of heat cycles into the tyre and gradually leaning on the tyre so that you just gradually get to all the tread. Do not put full power into the tyre until it's scrubbed in and don't do it when leaned over for at least 100 miles (150kms) ish. Same thing with the brakes really, start off gently until you get used to them and gradually increase the pressure until you feel they are doing their job, avoid sudden full pressure use.
Crickets! I may go my entire life without ever seeing full throttle. I'm very happy playing with the low-to-midrange and I'm certainly not going to lean it anywhere near the edge of the tread and can;t ever imagine giving it full or even a handful of throttle coming out of a corner. Does this mean that I will always have a "slippery patch" on the edge of my tyres or will the heat cycle prepare the entire tyre for a serious lean?
Re: brake pads, one thing I felt was they were very grabby - way more than the pads that came off. Immediately noticeable so I was very gentle on the front brake and mostly used my rears. I also noticed while pushing it around out of the shed today that it was making a fair bit of brake rubbing noise and it was harder to push around. Expected or odd?
Thanks by the way ;-) I didn't know about the heat cycle. How much is heat cycle and how much is "using all the tyre"? My (probably unfounded) fear is that when I go to lean a lot it'll find the "new" patch and give way. Radically exaggerated but you know what I mean?
Unless you suddenly dump it over so hard the pegs are down you'll never be on all new rubber so it'll be fine. Even then with decent tyres it'll probably just wiggle a bit & start working.
I've never trusted new slipstones, but then after paying for 021s I refuse to ever give them money for tyres again. Michelins are fine until they delaminate, they just feel a touch less planted the first time they are cranked over. Avons feel perfect straight from the off.
I was told a million years ago that the slippery when new reason was because of the release agents they coat the mould with to be able to get the new tyre out of it is Stuck on the surface of the new tyre and needs to be worn off or can be cleaned off with acetone, when racing you don't have the luxury of time , so I used to wipe the new slicks with acetone and never had a problem with them being slippery. I've never bothered with road Tyres as you just don't ride that hard on the road to cause an issue and would only be concerned if the first ride was in the rain. By the time you get to your favorite twisty road the Tyres will be fit for purpose
You would think that in this day and age of OH&S and Duty of Care the manufacturers would be doing the acetone thing before it left the factory, personally I wouldn't be putting it on my tyres. I just go easy for the first few corners.
Thanks all for taking the time to explain all that to this wide eyed noob. That makes me feel a LOT better.
Quote from: Irish in Oz on Wednesday, 09 September 2020, 07:31 AM
You would think that in this day and age of OH&S and Duty of Care the manufacturers would be doing the acetone thing before it left the factory, personally I wouldn't be putting it on my tyres. I just go easy for the first few corners.
It, like the release agent is also gone in the first few corners
Not sure what Michelin say.
Quote from: Irish in Oz on Wednesday, 09 September 2020, 08:11 AM
Not sure what Michelin say.
We all used to do it to the slicks back in the day which only lasted a day at the track anyway so no long term effects were ever seen.Looking at the pics of the new tyres above they have a matt finish from new, the old slicks used to be shiny when unwrapped, looks like technology has caught up but you could really feel the difference especially on cold days if circumstances dictated you needed to fit new tyres
On Saturday I dropped into a race bike shop for a suspension set up and they were pretty much horrified at my choice of both the Michelin Power 5s and the EBC pads and suggested I remove both. The Michelin Power 5s they said have a reputation of "letting go" during emergency movements or cornering really hard and (if I'm any judge of character and facial expressions) were really and genuinely concerned. He called his partner over and said "look at this" and he just shook his head and walked off. They both asked "who the hell suggested these tyres for you?!".
They suggested I either ride them out gently to "get my legs back" then switch to either a Pirelli Diablo Rosso 2 or (their preference) the Dunlop Roadsmart 3. They said the Dunlops have three compounds (actually from my research they're the same compound but cured slightly differently) so the centre of soft but the mid and hard edges are even softer. The Pirelli Diablo Rosso 2 was a bit softer in the middle and wouldn't last as long but would make me feel safer and have more "feel" during normal driving but would hold on incredibly well if I ever had (or wanted) to push it. They both agreed that they would far prefer that I was on either the Dunlops or Pirellis during any emergency procedure.
This was very concerning. I'm just a wide eyed newby and I have to trust the professionals. Both retailers have an agenda obviously (to sell their tyres to me) but both knew I was a returning wide eyed rider with medium riding skills (at best) although Race Bike Services (http://www.racebikeservices.com.au/) asked me a lot more questions about my riding skills, experience and aims. They also spent a lot of time measuring me and the suspension movement both on and off the bike and assessing my shocks (they have to go to...more on that later). They're a couple of British guys and although both shops seem trustworthy and didn't rush me these guys asked a lot more questions. The guys who fitted the Michelins just asked me which one I wanted and said "anything I chose will grip enough for my riding style and experience.
As for the brakes, they said I can keep the organics on the rear but the EBC scintered pads will chew my discs. They reminded me how much a disc costs and mine are in pretty good condition and I'd like to make them last as long as possible. Although Mick Hone has them listed at just $166 each although if it came to that I know the forum has opinions on various disc choices. They suggest I ditch the EBCs and fit SBS RS (https://www.sbs.dk/products-1/brake-pads/686rs) pads because they grip as well, handle heat well and don't grind the discs.
As for the shocks (while I'm at it) they said my rhinocerous arse is way too much for the stock shocks and even with the compression wound up to max (16 turns on the knob) I'm still already half way down the shock and that's why I'm getting a bumpy ride. I'm literally bottoming out the shock. Wow, I'm really copping it...lol They suggested I fit the YSS RG362 (https://yssaustralia.com.au/road-motorcycle/34148-655462-rg362-twin-shocks.html#/465-twinshockweight-above_100kg_100/467-twinshockcolor-black_standard) with the +100kg rider weight spring.
As for the fronts they suggest I ditch the stock progressive spring and fit a straight non-progressive heavy duty spring. They said with the Dunlops, YSS, SBS combination the bike will be "a totally different" bike which will be a pleasure to ride and feel far more confident.
I'm at the mercy of other people's opinions as I have none of my own but I will never forget the look on their faces when they saw the Michelins. Pretty disappointing. Help me get some perspective fellas. I know you'll express a variety of opinions and no I'm not made of money but this 14 has been a long time coming, I picked it up for only $4k (for a 40,000km bike) so to bring it up to "preferred spec" I still won't be over spending compared to it's apparent value and I'll no doubt have a really nice riding bike with all the best suspension, tyres and brakes but jeezaloo! Could have done without the shakeup of my confidence although I'm sure the Michies will be "fine" (probably) I really would like to get the most from this bike. It's my 'prize' and joy and I want to make sure I focus on improving my riding skills rather than worry about tyres slipping out from under me at the worst possible time.
I've currently got the Michelins and pads for sale on FB and GT in the hope it'll help me recoup some of the cost. I paid $532 for the Michelins and the Dunlops will cost me $460 to replace,
As for the Pads I have no opinion, BUT the tyres, what a crock, if you are riding around with your knee on the deck there may be differences but I seriously doubt that Michelin would be making a dangerous Tyre to sell to unsuspecting newbies that just want to ride around. Try chasing an experienced rider on a GS BMW with Knobbies on a twisty road and you will soon realise that your road tyres far exceed your capabilities, so park your worries and enjoy your bike.
Quote from: steve porter on Monday, 14 September 2020, 11:10 AM
As for the Pads I have no opinion, BUT the tyres, what a crock, if you are riding around with your knee on the deck there may be differences but I seriously doubt that Michelin would be making a dangerous Tyre to sell to unsuspecting newbies that just want to ride around. Try chasing an experienced rider on a GS BMW with Knobbies on a twisty road and you will soon realise that your road tyres far exceed your capabilities, so park your worries and enjoy your bike.
Thanks Steve. Appreciate that. "wrong tyres" was my biggest shock. My riding is gentle at best and mild at worst. There will not be any pillions or heavy luggage - just me riding around gently leaning into bends. I haven't even seen 3,500rpm yet and it'll be a while before I do. I'm guessing that by the time I'm ready to push tyres even a little bit I'd have probably worn these out then I can switch to others. I've not found a bad opinion on the Michies yet and believe me...I'm searching hard. Everyone seems to like every suitable tyre.
One of the problems with "Super Sticky Tyres" is that yes they may be stickier than others, But, and it`s a big BUT is that they aren`t necessarily any stickier until they are bloody hot and may in fact not be as sticky as a more road oriented tyre when not up to the temperatures you can only achieve on a track or riding like a lunatic.
Quote from: steve porter on Monday, 14 September 2020, 11:28 AM
One of the problems with "Super Sticky Tyres" is that yes they may be stickier than others, But, and it`s a big BUT is that they aren`t necessarily any stickier until they are bloody hot and may in fact not be as sticky as a more road oriented tyre when not up to the temperatures you can only achieve on a track or riding like a lunatic.
That's actually a good point. I think I'll keep the Michelins for now. I've always liked Michelin tyres on my cars and have a good feeling about the brand in general. I think of all the items needing attention they might be on the bottom of the list. One thing they mentioned was the very high pressures. When fitted they pumped them up to 42psi. They suggested a softer 36psi at most - especially as a solo rider even at my weight (about 120kg).
Steve is spot on with what he is saying SA14 & the Power 5 you have on are even more than you need from how you are describing your riding. I went from Pirelli to the Michelin road 5's which are not as sticky as the Power 5's, and they were a great tyre all round, till i sold my bike. This was with spirited riding, with wear from edge to edge & scraping the pegs.
The guy's you have taken it too are just treating everyone as a Track day Racer & pushing their own agenda by the sounds of it. For them to tell you to take them off, is really a bloody joke.
I know a lot of the boys on here are running Pirelli Angel Gt or Michelin Pilot Road 3-5 and are not just cruising. And you have on tyres that are even sticker again. No need to change them & they are a tyre you can have full confidence in.
Road 4 ==> Road 5 (commuting)
Power 2CT / Pilot Power 3 ==> Power 5 (85% road - 15% track)
Quote from: Sweaty on Monday, 14 September 2020, 11:55 AM
Steve is spot on with what he is saying SA14 & the Power 5 you have on are even more than you need from how you are describing your riding. I went from Pirelli to the Michelin road 5's which are not as sticky as the Power 5's, and they were a great tyre all round, till i sold my bike. This was with spirited riding, with wear from edge to edge & scraping the pegs.
The guy's you have taken it too are just treating everyone as a Track day Racer & pushing their own agenda by the sounds of it. For them to tell you to take them off, is really a bloody joke.
I know a lot of the boys on here are running Pirelli Angel Gt or Michelin Pilot Road 3-5 and are not just cruising. And you have on tyres that are even sticker again. No need to change them & they are a tyre you can have full confidence in.
Road 4 ==> Road 5 (commuting)
Power 2CT / Pilot Power 3 ==> Power 5 (85% road - 15% track)
Thanks man, that makes me feel even better. Sounds like for my riding almost any tyre would be more than I'd ever need. It had an instant effect on my confidence riding home. I was off the front brake and mostly using the rears (mostly slow gentle under 60kmh riding) and felt the hesitation leaning into bends. I'll use these Michelins to get my legs again and see after that. Might put the money into better seating though as numb bum is a real issue as opposed to imaginary (or minuscule) tyre thing. I really do want to like the Michelins. They look great (not an issue but still) I'll never push them and like was mentioned "as if Michelin would build a dangerous tyre". I've done serious searching this morning and can't find anyone who says a bad thing about them. Money wasn't an object so I thought I was buying the best. Seems I wasn't far off so I'll stick with them for now.
Thanks again.
Quote from: Sweaty on Monday, 14 September 2020, 11:55 AM
Steve is spot on with what he is saying SA14 & the Power 5 you have on are even more than you need from how you are describing your riding. I went from Pirelli to the Michelin road 5's which are not as sticky as the Power 5's, and they were a great tyre all round, till i sold my bike. This was with spirited riding, with wear from edge to edge & scraping the pegs.
The guy's you have taken it too are just treating everyone as a Track day Racer & pushing their own agenda by the sounds of it. For them to tell you to take them off, is really a bloody joke.
I know a lot of the boys on here are running Pirelli Angel Gt or Michelin Pilot Road 3-5 and are not just cruising. And you have on tyres that are even sticker again. No need to change them & they are a tyre you can have full confidence in.
Road 4 ==> Road 5 (commuting)
Power 2CT / Pilot Power 3 ==> Power 5 (85% road - 15% track)
Ordered a set of Road 5 for mine a week or so ago, and even though I've never tried them I am 100% confident that they will do the job, bloody COVID post is taking forever these days I expected them before the weekend, but I will have wait and fit them when the eventually come
Quote from: SA14 on Monday, 14 September 2020, 11:47 AM
Quote from: steve porter on Monday, 14 September 2020, 11:28 AM
One of the problems with "Super Sticky Tyres" is that yes they may be stickier than others, But, and it`s a big BUT is that they aren`t necessarily any stickier until they are bloody hot and may in fact not be as sticky as a more road oriented tyre when not up to the temperatures you can only achieve on a track or riding like a lunatic.
That's actually a good point. I think I'll keep the Michelins for now. I've always liked Michelin tyres on my cars and have a good feeling about the brand in general. I think of all the items needing attention they might be on the bottom of the list. One thing they mentioned was the very high pressures. When fitted they pumped them up to 42psi. They suggested a softer 36psi at most - especially as a solo rider even at my weight (about 120kg).
I'm the same weight as you and tried 36 in the Dunlop rear I am currently running and it started to feather the leading edge of the treads so I put it back up to 42 and it has smoothed out again, couldn't actually feel any difference though
I'm close to the same weight as you 2 guys, 122 - 125Kg. When my rear tire is on 36, it feels sort of mushy n moves about when leaned over. Same tire 40 - 42 much better & holds a line easier. Straight up highway riding, I doubt I'd notice any difference between 36 & 40.
I think us fat bastards equal two Japanese test riders so I always go with two up settings
Riding around on 36 in the rear feels like the tyre is flat.
Had 3 sets of Pilot Road 4's, now into my second pair of Road 5's.
With the 4's l ran 36f,38r on the road couple of pounds more 2up and loaded with luggage. Second track day and it was recommended l drop the pressures. I dropped them to 30lb front and rear. Bit spongy for a couple of laps then they came good. Got to 34 fr and 35r and they were hot and stunk of rubber when l came in after our 15m sessions. Put them back to 36/38 to ride home.
With the 5's l was told to run 38/42. Will have them on in December when l've booked another track day.
The softer compound on the shoulders of the tyre are good for confidence in the event of having to tip it over further than normally you have to.
Wearing out a set a year it would seem.
I'm only 80kgs, I should of only had 28 psi in mine then :stir: :grin:
Sweaty you can make tyre pressure adjustments by how many pies you eat and beersies you drink :stir:
Thanks for all the comments guys (I love forums!) I'll try 38-40 on the rears and see how that feels. They agreed that with my riding the Michies will be fine for finding my legs again and I will most likely never push them to their limits.
But the BIG news is I just got back from there and the bike feels TOTALLY different (in the brake department) and for a good reason as you'll see by the pics. Not only were they damaged on the install (grrrrr :furious: ) by using a big old screwdriver to spread the stubbon pads apart but half the pistons were slow and a few were barely working! He estimated that I was using mostly only one or two pistons to stop. He cleaned them up, lubricated them, removed some brake fluid from the system (waaay too full he said) and also lubed my lever which he said was bone dry. Now all are fully operational and I can tell the difference immediately.
Take a look at the pics and remember these brake pads were barely used and only traveled 150km and are barely 1 week old! The wear pattern was totally off with one side per disc doing nearly all of the work and the other barely working. He said the side with all the wear were almost certainly pushing hard on the disc all the time and you know, I did notice is was much harder to push around and was very noisy on the front like they were on.
I'm not happy but now...the bike stops fantastically! I used the fronts almost exclusively on the 20km ride home and they were smooth, progressive and I even had an emergency stop (ish) and I was able to control the braking with a smooth squeeze until the front loaded up and I was able to really squeeze to a hard rapid stop. Totally controllable. It's like I've suddenly become a much better rider.
Since getting the bike the front brakes were really sensitive and grabbing with only the slightest touch so to be honest I avoided using them and almost entirely relied on the rears. I just thought they were super good at stopping and I didn't know how to squeeze properly but it wasn't that at all. It was that the pistons came on suddenly instead of smoothly for the reasons mentioned above.
...and now, pics!
Quote from: Sweaty on Monday, 14 September 2020, 05:00 PM
I'm only 80kgs, I should of only had 28 psi in mine then :stir: :grin:
80! Eat some food ya skinny bugger! :rofl2:
Yeah, well, as for the pad wear & calipers sticking, you'll get that if she's been left laid up. Stripping & cleaning them isn't difficult & saves ending up with the pic's above. There are good tutorials on here :computer_type: regarding the caliper cleaning.
But, glad you've got it sorted & you're now wiser on the brake front. :onya: :clapping:
Quote from: KiwiCol on Monday, 14 September 2020, 06:36 PM
Yeah, well, as for the pad wear & calipers sticking, you'll get that if she's been left laid up. Stripping & cleaning them isn't difficult & saves ending up with the pic's above. There are good tutorials on here :computer_type: regarding the caliper cleaning.
But, glad you've got it sorted & you're now wiser on the brake front. :onya: :clapping:
Yeah, I don't blame them for the stick pistons but I'll definitely hold them responsible for butchering the pads while trying to force them instead of recognising that there was a problem. No excuse for that from a bike shop that's been in business since last century.
If they don't refund me the cost of the butchered pads I'll be way less than impressed. I was actually watching the kid shove the big screwdriver I. There and wrestle with it but in my ignorance I didn't know enough to stop him. I did think it was weird and a bit rough. Figured they knew what they were doing.
Big mistake as a wise man once said "assumption is the mother of all fuck ups" I'll only be letting a proper mechanic touch it from now on. And yeah, as soon as I saw him cleaning and lubricating the pistons I thought "that's exactly like was documented on the .org.
Luckily the only damage was to my wallet. While I was at it I took out my new gumtree micrometer and all three measured about 5.25mm. Hope to keep them that way. I know it's s wearing part but he showed me a racing disc that used the same type of pad and it was still in great condition after 16 years of racing. I feel confident.
Re tyres: are you racing ? No
Re bike - is it a 200+hp moto gp machine : (sadly) no
Re shop: take your hard earned somewhere else.
You are not racing, your tyre choice is absolutely ok and the GSX1400 is forgiving. You will not ride it anywhere near its limits so nothing to worry about.
Glad you got the brakes sorted, thats a real confidence booster. A good upgrade is braided stainless steel lines, the rubber hose gets a bit soft with age and expands too much.
Whoever fitted pads. just a major stuff up. Calipers on a sitting/corroded bike, shouldve been off and fixed. Braided hose, each to their own. Theres a lot of high braking cars/bikes that use rubber.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Monday, 14 September 2020, 07:06 PM
Re tyres: are you racing ? No
Re bike - is it a 200+hp moto gp machine : (sadly) no
Re shop: take your hard earned somewhere else.
You are not racing, your tyre choice is absolutely ok and the GSX1400 is forgiving. You will not ride it anywhere near its limits so nothing to worry about.
Glad you got the brakes sorted, thats a real confidence booster. A good upgrade is braided stainless steel lines, the rubber hose gets a bit soft with age and expands too much.
Yep I'll be keeping the tyres - especially after all you guys are saying the same thing. Actually they also mentioned some braided lines for extra feel. They're on the list.
Quote from: grog on Monday, 14 September 2020, 07:19 PM
Whoever fitted pads. just a major stuff up. Calipers on a sitting/corroded bike, should've been off and fixed. Braided hose, each to their own. There's a lot of high braking cars/bikes that use rubber.
I agree but in my noobness/ignorance they felt like they worked ok although super touchy (now we know why) so I figured they we're ok. I did read the new bike owner's check list and was aware that it was a good thing to do. But now that I know how good the front bakes can and should be I can feel a massive difference as mentioned.
Hopefully the other shop will do the right thing and refund me at least the cost of their pads. These new pads were cheaper too ($190 fitted) and they cleaned my calipers and freed my pistons...and they de-greased, steam cleaned and re-waxed my chain which was gold under all the dirt! I like this new mob - even if they did give me a slight scare with the tyres but I'm lucky they didn't like those pads or else I wouldn't have discovered the damage and stuck pistons so is all well that ends well?
I'll be honest, with the touchy brakes I wasn't enjoying it anywhere near as much as I di on the ride home today. I was in half a mood to just keep riding past my house and keep chasing the horizon and now I can't wait to get out there for a really decent multi hundred km ride...for the first time with full confidence. I'll leave my cockiness in the shed though. Still cautious but now I love this bike so much it's hard to be very upset. The good far outweighs the bad and this bike just keeps on getting better and I did buy it pretty cheap so by the time I get to normal retail value I'll have a fantastic bike with new tyres, brakes, shocks and springs front and back. Hopefully a new seat and I think I'm done.