Hi all.
I'm a newbie to this forum but been riding for years.
My K6 has a very noticable tapping sound from the lower part of the engine only when under load.
No noise at idle.Even when revving.Very noticable when cold and starting off in 1st gear.
It sounds like a car lifter thats noisy.
Will reduce in sound once warm but not go away completely.
Has 39'000k's.Oil and filter changed at 38'000 using Motul 4T 3100 10w 40.
The noise has been there ever since I've owned it which is since 26'000ks but I'm unsure if its gotten any louder.
I'm only concerned because I went to sell it and the person interested mentioned the noise.
I took it to a mechanic and he said possible bottom end bearing but not sure and not worth spending the money.
He said to just keep riding it.
It's hindering me selling the bike though.
Any ideas guys?
Keep it and see if the mechanic is correct :stir:
Gidday 2wheeler, as Snapey says, there's a place to intro yourself, (https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?board=20.0) then ask questions if you can't find answers in the sections.
However, since you asked, there are a lot of owners who have changed away from Motul brand for a variety of reasons, from cost to just a much better engine feel & sound.
Basically any 10 /40 semi will be fine, some even use 15/40 diesel oil with no problems whatsoever, (here we go), We've found Gulf Western 3000 is a damn good oil & a great price, makes the gear changes waaaaay better than Motul & the engine just sounds nice - might also fix your wee issue.
I agree with Blubber
Quote from: KiwiCol on Monday, 25 May 2020, 04:43 PM
Gidday 2wheeler, as Snapey says, there's a place to intro yourself, (https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?board=20.0) then ask questions if you can't find answers in the sections.
However, since you asked, there are a lot of owners who have changed away from Motul brand for a variety of reasons, from cost to just a much better engine feel & sound.
Basically any 10 /40 semi will be fine, some even use 15/40 diesel oil with no problems whatsoever, (here we go), We've found Gulf Western 3000 is a damn good oil & a great price, makes the gear changes waaaaay better than Motul & the engine just sounds nice - might also fix your wee issue.
Once again Col you're far too kind :salute: :salute: :salute:
I don't recall hearing of more than one bottom end ever letting go on a 14, so I'd be surprised if it's bearings at that mileage. If memory serves the one in Oz that went pop, threw a leg out at about 300,000 kms.
If you're worried about it, I'd be tempted to drop the sump & check the pickup is clean. It could be something in there blocking it partly & making the oil pressure a bit low. I'd expect you'd be able to wriggle the big ends & crank to feel for play from there too. That should let you spot anything obvious I'd hope.
Dont worry about it!
I'll give ya 50 quid for it and take a chance. :hat:
Thanks for the replys.Appreciate it.
I've been away from the computer for a week.
Will go and introduce myself.
I'll try changing the oil to Gulf Western.
Is cam chain noise the same as a lifter tappy noise?
My bike has low k's so thinking maybe a sticking cam chain tensioner rather than a bearing etc.
Hi guys
I can't find where to introduce myself so will do that here.
I started this post.
I'm Chris from Auckland.49yrs old.
Been riding on and off since I was 15.
Had my 14 for 3yrs.Mainly had 650s and 750s
Its my weekend bike.Done 12'000s on it.
Love a nice 400-500k days ride.
I changed my oil to Gulf Western.
No change in sound unfortunately.The tick is still there at idle.
Really noticable from start off to say 3000rpm then can't hear it over the exhaust.
Doesn't change in sound when hot,just stays the same.
Bike still rides really nice.Is the 1400 a quiet engine or is ticking like a noisy lifter a common thing?
G'day Jaffa..... :stir:
Now this might sound really daft but is your chain in good nick, no kinks or tight links and properly adjusted.
Yip born and bred Jafa .
Did buy the 14 from down your way though...Bethlehem.
Chain,sprockets are all in top shape.
Noise is a tap tap tap.
If i put it in gear,hold on the front brake and apply revs like I'm trying to do a burnout,the tap tap tap comes on strong.
So bike doesn't need to be in motion.
I did the screw driver to ear test and it really sound like the tappets/valves are bouncing around.
I thought at first it was coming from the lower part of the motor but second guessing myself now.
Bikes only done 39'000ks.
I'm thinking valve clearance check?
Gidday Chris 2wheeler, welcome aboard.
This ticking isn't from the exhaust where the headers go into the engine? If 1 is loose & letting exhaust out it can sound like ticking.
Another thing to check would be the pairs valve covers, check they're not leaking & are tight. Could be the pairs valve itself making the noise too.
Does it change frequency with engine rpm? If it doesnt, it cannot be a tappet as these are directly related to crank rpm via the cam chain. Engine is normally quiet.
Can be clutch basket or ignition wheel, but again borh of these would vary with engine rpm.
Hi guys
Exhaust header bolts all tight.I've had a good listen around that area.
It totally sounds like the noise a leaking exhaust flange would make.
Only problem is that it's not noticable in neutral when revving just when I pull away in gear.
On idle the tick/tap is say at 25% .Will change in frequency but not sound volume when I rev it.
Put it in gear,hold the front brake and apply revs I get a loud tick tick tick that increases with rpms(can hear it with my helmet on).
That eliminates chain,sprokets,wheel bearings etc.
I took it for a WOF and could hear it when the guy moved my bike.I was sitting in the waiting room.
Bit of a head scratcher 🤷♂️
I`d be looking at the cam chain tensioner
Gearbox to me then. 2nd gear sprocket can have issues.
Worn shift forks
Gear damage (missing tooth?)
Head scratcher alright. might be head off time n have a look.
Did another screw driver test today.
I've honed in at the cam chain tensioner being the culprit.
It's got a real noticable tap tap tap.
Is this a thing that has happened to anyone else's bike?
Can it be replaced without removing the head etc?
I did read a thread where someone just unbolted it and carefully replaced it.
Quote from: 2wheeler on Thursday, 04 June 2020, 01:15 PM
Did another screw driver test today.
I've honed in at the cam chain tensioner being the culprit.
It's got a real noticable tap tap tap.
Is this a thing that has happened to anyone else's bike?
Can it be replaced without removing the head etc?
I did read a thread where someone just unbolted it and carefully replaced it.
Don't risk starting it anymore, if it is, it could jump a tooth and get messy
Quote from: 2wheeler on Thursday, 04 June 2020, 01:15 PM
Did another screw driver test today.
I've honed in at the cam chain tensioner being the culprit.
It's got a real noticable tap tap tap.
Is this a thing that has happened to anyone else's bike?
Can it be replaced without removing the head etc?
I did read a thread where someone just unbolted it and carefully replaced it.
I'm sure it can just be replaced. I think I've seen threads where you can take it out 'reset' it & put it back to sort it as sometimes the auto adjust gets stuck.
It'll be in the workshop manual somewhere.
I removed chain tensioner and put it back this winter after valve clearance check with no problems. But did it while cam and ignition covers were off just to be sure that markings are ok.
2 wheeler, just google gsx1400 cam chain tensioner. A few articles on 14/bandit tensioners getting stuck, tapping noise. Seems you can just take it out, free it up or replace. $60 Aust for a newie. Very simple item so pull it apart and check it out. Maybe spring displaced or oil feed has crap in it. Used to happen a bit on old jap motors, xs650 etc. oil wasnt as good then, theyd gum up. Clean up, refit, all good. Worth a try IMO. 😎
The cam chain tensioner can be taken out and put in without undoing anything else. However, even if you get the audible ratcheting sound indicating that the tensioner works, it may not have worked (ratchet) all the way to give you the needed chain tightness.
Only way to be sure is to take the cylinder head covering off which allows you visual and tactile confirmation that the chain is tight. This still does not allow you to test the chain for wear. For that you have to take out one (at least) of the cam shafts and test for play in the chain length - there shouldn't be any.
How far you go with this is up to you. I highly recommend you replace the tensioner's gasket and copper thingy. And don't loose that ball inside the tensioner :)
If you try to lift the cam chain off the cam sprockets in the middle of the chain run on them you can also feel wear. A worn chain will lift a link slightly due to play in the links. This also works on drive chains at the back of the rear sprocket etc.