Lads, I beg of you. lol... Can any of you fine gents tell me if you know the size and thread pitch of the rotor main bolt? It's not in the list above...sigh
Long story short.. I've knackered the 1st few threads inside the crankshaft end and need to re-tap it. Current bolt won't start to catch on turning and is beginning to bugger threads on that too, so don't want to force it... I think it's an M13 bolt, but want to know the thread size so I can get correct tap...fkin nightmare lol
...And before you ask, it all happened when trying to remove the flywheel and using the wrong tip on removal bolt! ffs
Thanks in advance lads.
EDIT: Just to clarify... Don't exactly know whats happened, but got the gist from forum main page posts.. I was a member from the older original forum, which this has now become I believe, had to re-register.. but all my old posts are gone :( .. I remember Barmy and a few others, but i've been away for about 5/6 years, (long story), and still have my GSX1400/K5 which was damaged in an accident and also myself... fully recovered now and want to get my baby back on the road, lots to fix and summers are too feckin short! So all help appreciated!
Bladey
Can't help with the pitch bladey, but the parts microfiche does at least give the bolt size.
Your a Gent as always Barmy... thanx! Soooo it's an M12. I'll have to order a Pitch/thread gauge as I duno what's happened to my last one in the last 5 years.
Actually since I wrote my last post.. I've noticed the 1.5cm of the bolt shank isn't threaded, which means the thread starts 1.5cm into the Crankshaft... Which means i've mushroomed the entry a bit... So a Dremel sander should be able to grind and clean up the face.
Now to get that feckin stubborn arse flywheel off!!
Cheers again Barmy, good to know some things/members never change!
Bladey!
Bladey - I know a few who had issue with the stator bolt coming loose on later models who found that tightening the bolt up didn't always work, even when loctite'd in with blue loctite - but when a new bolt was fitted all was good. I have a suspicion that due to the high torque of the bolt that it may be a single use as it slightly stretches (so a thread gauge may not give you the correct answer on a used bolt).
I would suggest ordering a new bolt from Mr Suzuki, as it may save you grief in the longer term - and give you a bolt with the correct pitch to measure.
Good point Barmy! Although the pitch wouldn't have changed so much that I can't measure, but tolerances maybe out if first torqued up to fit by Suzuki which done at factory..
For £7 a bolt, I guess it's a no brainer..as a new gasket is £15 IF I had to re-open and tighten up the bloody bolt again! So i'll just order 1.
Beginning to remember why I loved this site so much!
Everyone else, stay safe lads/laddetes.. It's rough out there :cry2:. Hopefully we'll crack this virus thing!
Weathers good, and so no better time to spend on bike work!! :boogie:
Just to let you lads know that only a small part of the rotor bolt is used to hold and engages into the crankshaft thread. So the tolerances on the unused threads should be fine.
So basically all the force is only engaged by about 1.5cm of the shank, so no wonder people are having issues re-using the same bolt as this must throw the tolerances out by at least 15-20%
Good call Barmy
Is that all? Thanks for that feedback
@bladey useful to know (but what a waste of thread!)
I am back...(sigh), been 3 years and still haven't managed to remove the flywheel.. :rolleyes: . It's the most stubborn ass effing flywheel i've come across!!
I've bent TWO pullers trying to remove her!... Now going for a pro puller that looks the business! My next problem is my flywheel main bolt is knackered and I can't order a new one coz no-one has one in stock!
Does anyone here still have their old flywheel bolt? as they would've been replaced when any work of removing was carried out. Leme know please, be happy to pay u for it!
Only other option would be to take it down to machine shop to re-align first few threads.
Thanks in advance lads
Blades
09103-14034-000.If thats the bolt you need in stock at Megazip.Just over $100.
Cheers Grog, I'm crazy...but just not that crazy lol...$100 for a single bolt! I'd rather pay to have my one have it's threads straightened! Thanks tho.
Bladey, try motorcyclespareparts.eu. $1.14, one extreme to the other.
U effing Rock Grog mate.... Thank u VERY much.... Let's hope they have it in stock!
If not, Web Bike Japan do for maybe $20.
What kind of pullers are you trying to use, the two/three leg type .. if so then that's the wrong type!
As far as I remember it's a big bolt (effectively) which you screw in, this is engaged in the rotor and bears against the end of the crankshaft ... turn the bolt and it'll eventually pop the rotor off.
Yep, memory serves me well, part numbers ...
Rotor remover 09930-30720
Rotor holder 09930-44530
I'm also sure that tapping on the head of the bolt, after tightening, can help shock the rotor free.
All the best ... Barry
P.S. I'm slow at getting around to things ... but you're starting to catch up :lol:
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Friday, 08 September 2023, 08:03 PMWhat kind of pullers are you trying to use, the two/three leg type .. if so then that's the wrong type!
As far as I remember it's a big bolt (effectively) which you screw in, this is engaged in the rotor and bears against the end of the crankshaft ... turn the bolt and it'll eventually pop the rotor off.
Yep, memory serves me well, part numbers ...
Rotor remover 09930-30720
Rotor holder 09930-44530
I'm also sure that tapping on the head of the bolt, after tightening, can help shock the rotor free.
All the best ... Barry
P.S. I'm slow at getting around to things ... but you're starting to catch up :lol:
Hi Bandit, originally I did everything by the book and ordered the correct bolt, (as u stated), I used an impact drill, (pro one), nut no joy... Then I proceeded to hand tighten until couldn't physically tighten any more... At this point I should have used a mallet to pop the bugger off... but I didn't. I tightened more using a breaker bar and the threads on the flywheel just stripped off and bolt just spun.
This is my current predicament and hence why I'm having to resort to a puller. SO, I used a two legged puller which I screwed into the bolt holes inside the flywheel after removing the hex bolts that hold the clutch plate to flywheel. tightened that up pretty tight then used the hammer on the bolt end of puller which did nowt... in fact did more damage, the bolt tip slightly rounded the edges of bolt inlet on crankshaft end...So that's another problem to contend with AFTER, I remove the fecking flywheel.
The other option I have is to re-thread the flywheel and use a bigger bolt.. It's a long story and still ongoing.
Quote from: bladey on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 01:46 AMHi Bandit, originally I did everything by the book and ordered the correct bolt, (as u stated), I used an impact drill, (pro one), nut no joy... Then I proceeded to hand tighten until couldn't physically tighten any more... At this point I should have used a mallet to pop the bugger off... but I didn't. I tightened more using a breaker bar and the threads on the flywheel just stripped off and bolt just spun.
This is my current predicament and hence why I'm having to resort to a puller. SO, I used a two legged puller which I screwed into the bolt holes inside the flywheel after removing the hex bolts that hold the clutch plate to flywheel. tightened that up pretty tight then used the hammer on the bolt end of puller which did nowt... in fact did more damage, the bolt tip slightly rounded the edges of bolt inlet on crankshaft end...So that's another problem to contend with AFTER, I remove the fecking flywheel.
The other option I have is to re-thread the flywheel and use a bigger bolt.. It's a long story and still ongoing.
What a feckin nightmare ... rethreading sounds like the way to go, but don't know how hard the rotor steel is, so no idea how easy/difficult that'd be.
Ideally I take it you want to get it off in one piece so you can reuse ... if you'd be happy getting a replacement, then another option is to try welding a big nut on and doing it roughly the way it's meant to be done.
Hope yo get it off and let us all know how you get on.
All the best ... Barry
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 04:30 AMQuote from: bladey on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 01:46 AMHi Bandit, originally I did everything by the book and ordered the correct bolt, (as u stated), I used an impact drill, (pro one), nut no joy... Then I proceeded to hand tighten until couldn't physically tighten any more... At this point I should have used a mallet to pop the bugger off... but I didn't. I tightened more using a breaker bar and the threads on the flywheel just stripped off and bolt just spun.
This is my current predicament and hence why I'm having to resort to a puller. SO, I used a two legged puller which I screwed into the bolt holes inside the flywheel after removing the hex bolts that hold the clutch plate to flywheel. tightened that up pretty tight then used the hammer on the bolt end of puller which did nowt... in fact did more damage, the bolt tip slightly rounded the edges of bolt inlet on crankshaft end...So that's another problem to contend with AFTER, I remove the fecking flywheel.
The other option I have is to re-thread the flywheel and use a bigger bolt.. It's a long story and still ongoing.
What a feckin nightmare ... rethreading sounds like the way to go, but don't know how hard the rotor steel is, so no idea how easy/difficult that'd be.
Ideally I take it you want to get it off in one piece so you can reuse ... if you'd be happy getting a replacement, then another option is to try welding a big nut on and doing it roughly the way it's meant to be done.
Hope yo get it off and let us all know how you get on.
All the best ... Barry
Cheers for the reply Barry, That is actually not a bad idea! I got a mate who deals with car wheels tomorrow and he's bringing over a couple of pullers, if no joy... we'll resort to finding a high tensile nut and follow weld route.
Have a look at this video below...my problems are the same...I'm seeming to be the most unluckiest b'stard atm :laugh:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLpzk11em6Q&ab_channel=VytautasValaitis
Just checked the parts fiche on mick hone motor cycles, this shows the rotor as having a boss in centre with 2 flats 180 deg apart, and a threaded inner bore. Are you 100%sure that the rotors is a press fit onto the end of the crank, and not threaded? The bolt is then there just to stop it unwinding itself. If that's the case, then you need to hold the crank from the opposite side and using the holes in the rotor, unwind it from the crank. If it's a left hand thread, you'd unwind it clockwise, counter clockwise for a rh thread. I've never has a 1400 engine apart, so can't say from personal experience,just a thought...
Just tapered Eric. Have never understood why a taper? Taper with keyway no better. splined shaft 👍Diff makes do it diff ways, all about cost to manufacture?
Quote from: grog on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 05:15 PMJust tapered Eric. Have never understood why a taper? Taper with keyway no better. splined shaft 👍Diff makes do it diff ways, all about cost to manufacture?
Tapers get tighter and tighter the more they are pressed together, for example Morse taper is one used in machining, for drill chucks etc.
Quote from: bladey on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 05:18 AMCheers for the reply Barry, That is actually not a bad idea! I got a mate who deals with car wheels tomorrow and he's bringing over a couple of pullers, if no joy... we'll resort to finding a high tensile nut and follow weld route.
Have a look at this video below...my problems are the same...I'm seeming to be the most unluckiest b'stard atm :laugh:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLpzk11em6Q&ab_channel=VytautasValaitis
So been thinking more about this and came up with the idea of using heat (as in the video).
What you want to do is dump a shit ton of heat into the rotor before it transfers to the crank, that'll expand the rotor and it'll hopefully just fall off.
I don't think a blowtorch is up to the job of getting the rotor hot enough before the heat also gets to the crank (but still worth a try), I think you'd need a oxyacetylene type setup (just don't melt the fecker).
One thing I do know is that welding should do it, I've used it before to weld a nut on top of a bolt which wouldn't come out, the thermal shock of rapid heating broke the bond between the bolt and the hole ... the same idea should work for the rotor (the rotor should expand faster than the crank).
One thing to watch out for is the amount of heat put into the rotor, too much and you may bugger the magnets ... whatever method of heat used, it might make sense to put some fireproof material between the centre and the magnets!!
Never asked, but why were you trying to get the rotor off in the first place.
All the best ... Barry
P.S. You could go into 'feck it' mode and just weld the rotor onto the crank :rofl2:
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 08:02 PMQuote from: grog on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 05:15 PMJust tapered Eric. Have never understood why a taper? Taper with keyway no better. splined shaft 👍Diff makes do it diff ways, all about cost to manufacture?
Tapers get tighter and tighter the more they are pressed together, for example Morse taper is one used in machining, for drill chucks etc.
Quote from: bladey on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 05:18 AMCheers for the reply Barry, That is actually not a bad idea! I got a mate who deals with car wheels tomorrow and he's bringing over a couple of pullers, if no joy... we'll resort to finding a high tensile nut and follow weld route.
Have a look at this video below...my problems are the same...I'm seeming to be the most unluckiest b'stard atm :laugh:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLpzk11em6Q&ab_channel=VytautasValaitis
So been thinking more about this and came up with the idea of using heat (as in the video).
What you want to do is dump a shit ton of heat into the rotor before it transfers to the crank, that'll expand the rotor and it'll hopefully just fall off.
I don't think a blowtorch is up to the job of getting the rotor hot enough before the heat also gets to the crank (but still worth a try), I think you'd need a oxyacetylene type setup (just don't melt the fecker).
One thing I do know is that welding should do it, I've used it before to weld a nut on top of a bolt which wouldn't come out, the thermal shock of rapid heating broke the bond between the bolt and the hole ... the same idea should work for the rotor (the rotor should expand faster than the crank).
One thing to watch out for is the amount of heat put into the rotor, too much and you may bugger the magnets ... whatever method of heat used, it might make sense to put some fireproof material between the centre and the magnets!!
Never asked, but why were you trying to get the rotor off in the first place.
All the best ... Barry
P.S. You could go into 'feck it' mode and just weld the rotor onto the crank :rofl2:
Firstly a bit of backstory to the reason of this removal.. which I did post in the old forum nearly 7 years ago! Had an accident back in 2015 on my way down from Scotland in Keighley where I decided to challenge the the lovely winding roads taking her low on the curves running racing lines, (I know ..I know.. dickhead comes to mind, but I couldn't resist :grin: ), anywho, came to a certain speed and coming out of a fast curve, rear wheel came off tar and into dirt, couldn't power it through turn, lost control and bike and me went through one of those lovely dry stone walls, fractured leg and mashed right hand... I got off lightly tbh, as it was pretty high speed and if wall had been cemented, don't think I'd be here telling story!
Bike forks bent like f**k, buckled front wheel and stone wall shattered thru top of Gen housing, pieces of metal got inside and those pieces naturally shattered all magnets and buggered up stator. To this day I'm surprised the bike didn't sustain more damage tbh.
Secondly.. I have tried heating her up, but I think I was being a bit reserved with the heat in case of any nearby rubber seals, but realise it's not the case here between rotor/starter gear housing, just Crank bearing.
Thirdly.. I sourced all the parts back in 2015 for repairing her as I was so gutted and wanted her back on road ASAP, but that never happened, lifes tribulations got in the way and she was put on a back burner :cry2: . So I have a 2nd hand Rotor in good nick as well as Stator and new housing.
Fourthly.. and finally, Chuffed this morning to pick up a K5 2nd hand crankshaft with Rotor and starter clutch in place with only 9K on the clock thru fleabay for £110, which I think is a bargain!! ...and free postage WTF!, (Gona do lotto numbers tonight! :cool: ), naturally will get her checked out for straightness and thickness at crank pins for wear. I need the crankshaft for in case i've damaged the crank end which means I'd have to get her machined a mill or two and re-balanced...BUT just in case I now have a crankshaft on standby!
I won't go into the story of how I was stranded in the field for 8 hours with nothing but sheep and no phone reception, (sheep were safe lol).
Bladey!
Jesus and it still didn't put you off biking ... bad enough coming off, but to suffer those injuries and be stuck in a field for 8 hour!!!
I've had my share of offs at speed, last one when rear ended in the fast lane of the M8 at around 80mph ... walked away from it a bit stiff and rode the bike home ... it stayed upright embedded in the front of the car!!!
You're not going to believe this, but I was looking at the same crank this morning, as I think the big ends have gone on my K4 ... talk about coincidence!!
If the rotor is buggered already then nothing to lose by trying the welding route or torch!
Now that you have a new crank, you could just say feck it and just strip the bottom end and fit the new crank ... I'm sure you can do that without stripping the entire engine, but it's a while since I rebuilt mine (about 14 years ago).
BTW, whereabouts you based ... I'm a Glaswegian now living in Hamilton.
All the best ... Barry
you could try cutting the geny as close the the taper as possible, then whack a chisel in it, it just might be enough to free it from the crank.
Mate if us real bikers gave up biking on our first raw accident... I would've stopped riding in my teens! :laugh: I'm sure most of us here have a tale or two to tell!
I'm based in London Barry, born 'n' bred, sorry..not what a northerner wants to hear! :laugh: ..but the love of bikes and riding is what unites us!
Yes, I agree the best option would be to remove engine block and stick in replacement crank with rotor attached and might be the route left to me if I can't sort original crank end. I'm just going to dremel 0.5mm or less away so the rotor bolt will engage with inner thread. This shouldn't affect the balance as it's a very low centre of gravity point in the shaft.
QuoteYou're not going to believe this, but I was looking at the same crank this morning, as I think the big ends have gone on my K4 ... talk about coincidence!!
Lol, small world mate, I saw it about 11pm last night, pondered for a bit and then put in an offer and to my surprised was accepted this morning, next thing I knew it said item dispatched lol... and on a Sunday, so I assume I'll get it sometime during the week. IIRC, I paid about £150 for the second hand Rotor alone back in 2015, so this was a bargain tbh imo.
How many miles on your K4? Surprised the big ends gone tbh..Which would mean bearing failure as these engines are pretty rock solid, and i'm sure a guy like you keeps her well oiled up and maintained!
Bladey
Quote from: hard road on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 11:15 PMyou could try cutting the geny as close the the taper as possible, then whack a chisel in it, it just might be enough to free it from the crank.
Believe me Hard Road, I've even thought of that, but fear of accidental damage to Crank end or worse, thing slip and I damage crank body :shocked: ,I held off lol. Just FYI this bike has only covered 4K.. hence my hesitation to screw things up any further!
Only around 25k, but the front left head oil drain tube has rusted away and it's been letting oil out and moisture in for quite a while now, so most likely its run low on oil at some point between top ups and I've buggered it.
Oh I know above these engines, my K3 has done around 103K miles ... used to change oil every 2500 miles and filter every 5000 miles ... I had the head skimmed and gas flowed, PC-III, full akra, so it was in the 125bhp range ... still on the original clutch and it started again after sitting for seven years without much problem.
With regards the angle grinder idea ... I'd though of that but a lot of people wouldn't have the confidence to do it, but it'd work. I just recently cut my front sprocket off as it just wouldn't move, had to cut about 3/4 of it before I got it off.
The metal tends to start bluing due to the heat as it gets thin, so take it slow and steady and it'll be off before you know it.
I was asking where you were as I'd have come round and given you a hand, but feck travelling that distance!!
All the best ... Barry
P.S. You'd also need to remove one (at least) of the cams to give enough slack in the cam chain to get the crank out.
QuoteOnly around 25k, but the front left head oil drain tube has rusted away and it's been letting oil out and moisture in for quite a while now, so most likely its run low on oil at some point between top ups and I've buggered it.
Aaah, I see, sorry to hear mate, incidentally just seen this on fleabay:
Crankshaft (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195747051820?hash=item2d936ef92c:g:o0sAAOSwWR1kVRHO&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4BBeuWisrFfW1LK4lpRvkbHhPN9B1pE4Lqk8keHpLyHTMeNPCikQNNwAJPDyLZK%2FLHiuERIR9A69CFql%2Bmp%2F2fobjiwVElcmAs2%2FccBK3KGYcmCaBtuR%2B6MEmLHg1vsqieNrl41HD0zBB3BLp79Jj65wwkjp%2BW1ku9B5Ti7axVib9U6TvtzK5pTG9xOFTuszE4kXiOksyLgbGkKi5bg2MuTchRhrCDOJa5Mi1pTKyjdGR%2BtscJDfxZpUIKG16ZPnubWJnGJLWU92mHD%2FYV3t4uyIG61Q6EjJJjY4ID1cDf1E%7Ctkp%3ABFBM_p3ChdBi)
£115 plus u can make an offer on it! I'd say try £90.. may be as lucky as me! Looks in good nick tbh...
QuoteOh I know above these engines, my K3 has done around 103K miles ... used to change oil every 2500 miles and filter every 5000 miles ... I had the head skimmed and gas flowed, PC-III, full akra, so it was in the 125bhp range ... still on the original clutch and it started again after sitting for seven years without much problem.
Yep they have a solid reputation these engine, that's why I love 'em, love to get full akra on it... ooooh and gas flowed yes please, something I could do myself , with some elbow grease. Gas flowed my old escort head many moons ago. Next summer ..maybe?
QuoteWith regards the angle grinder idea ... I'd though of that but a lot of people wouldn't have the confidence to do it, but it'd work. I just recently cut my front sprocket off as it just wouldn't move, had to cut about 3/4 of it before I got it off.
The metal tends to start bluing due to the heat as it gets thin, so take it slow and steady and it'll be off before you know it.
Will leave as last resort if all else fails!
QuoteI was asking where you were as I'd have come round and given you a hand, but feck travelling that distance!!
Mark of a true biker.. honest to the core...love it! :grin:
QuoteP.S. You'd also need to remove one (at least) of the cams to give enough slack in the cam chain to get the crank out.
Yep you're absolutely spot on... forgot about that bit in my excitement, well the engine block has to come out anyway, might as well get off Cam covers.
Cheers Bladey
Quote from: bladey on Monday, 11 September 2023, 04:37 AMYep you're absolutely spot on... forgot about that bit in my excitement, well the engine block has to come out anyway, might as well get off Cam covers.
Cheers Bladey
Well the engine doesn't have to come out if you can get the rotor off, so much easier and cheaper than having to take an engine out and get new main bearings!!
You have nothing to lose, get heat into that knackered rotor and have one last go at getting it off, it'll save you a lot of time and effort if you can.
Next for me is try turning the K4 over without starting to see what it sounds like. If it sounds as bad then I'm onto the engines out route, both the K3 and K4, 16 header bolts to do :frustrated:
All the best ... Barry
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Monday, 11 September 2023, 04:25 PMQuote from: bladey on Monday, 11 September 2023, 04:37 AMYep you're absolutely spot on... forgot about that bit in my excitement, well the engine block has to come out anyway, might as well get off Cam covers.
Cheers Bladey
Well the engine doesn't have to come out if you can get the rotor off, so much easier and cheaper than having to take an engine out and get new main bearings!!
You have nothing to lose, get heat into that knackered rotor and have one last go at getting it off, it'll save you a lot of time and effort if you can.
Next for me is try turning the K4 over without starting to see what it sounds like. If it sounds as bad then I'm onto the engines out route, both the K3 and K4, 16 header bolts to do :frustrated:
All the best ... Barry
Barry see link for crankshaft on fleabay! Just in case u missed it!
Yes defo easy route is to try all methods to pop of rotor.. but if all else fails then block has to come out.
Quote from: grog on Sunday, 10 September 2023, 05:15 PMJust tapered Eric. Have never understood why a taper? Taper with keyway no better. splined shaft 👍Diff makes do it diff ways, all about cost to manufacture?
Not really any different to say Ford engines etc these days. A '08 Fiesta 1.25 I once did a head gasket on has tapered pulleys with no keyway for the cambelt. I didn't think it was trust worthy either, but it makes timing them damn easy & I've not heard of one slipping.
Quote from: bladey on Monday, 11 September 2023, 05:36 PMBarry see link for crankshaft on fleabay! Just in case u missed it!
Yes defo easy route is to try all methods to pop of rotor.. but if all else fails then block has to come out.
Thanks for link, but I won't be buying a crank until I confirm the K4 one is dead, as it's not only the crank but most likely main bearings (around £150 and up for a set) and big end bearings as well (around £80 a set), never mind what else has been damaged ... may be cheaper just buying an engine.
I need to watch the dosh these days, as I'm using up what little private pension I have to keep going (including paying the mortgage).
First step for me is to get headers off both bikes ... really looking forward to that!
All the best ... Barry
Quote from: BanditsHigh on Monday, 11 September 2023, 10:26 PMQuote from: bladey on Monday, 11 September 2023, 05:36 PMBarry see link for crankshaft on fleabay! Just in case u missed it!
Yes defo easy route is to try all methods to pop of rotor.. but if all else fails then block has to come out.
Thanks for link, but I won't be buying a crank until I confirm the K4 one is dead, as it's not only the crank but most likely main bearings (around £150 and up for a set) and big end bearings as well (around £80 a set), never mind what else has been damaged ... may be cheaper just buying an engine.
I need to watch the dosh these days, as I'm using up what little private pension I have to keep going (including paying the mortgage).
First step for me is to get headers off both bikes ... really looking forward to that!
All the best ... Barry
I know what u mean Bandit... I still have to figure out how I'm gona tell the missus I spent £110 on my crank.. when the old one ain't sorted.. GULP!
Got a text this morning from DPD saying Crankshaft would be with me between 1.30pm and 2.30pm... bloody thing never showed, check tracking and it said parcel is being sent back to sender! Started to panic thinking I missed delivery when I've practically parked my ass on the front door, so I phoned sender to ask what happened as no-one has knocked on my door, yet the parcel is being returned to him. He enquired and found out the DPD guys damaged the packaging, and rules are if package is damaged, to send back to sender!
So now I wait for the resend lol... feckin morning wasted! pmsl!
Bladey
Quote from: bladey on Tuesday, 12 September 2023, 12:37 AMI know what u mean Bandit... I still have to figure out how I'm gona tell the missus I spent £110 on my crank.. when the old one ain't sorted.. GULP!
Got a text this morning from DPD saying Crankshaft would be with me between 1.30pm and 2.30pm... bloody thing never showed, check tracking and it said parcel is being sent back to sender! Started to panic thinking I missed delivery when I've practically parked my ass on the front door, so I phoned sender to ask what happened as no-one has knocked on my door, yet the parcel is being returned to him. He enquired and found out the DPD guys damaged the packaging, and rules are if package is damaged, to send back to sender!
So now I wait for the resend lol... feckin morning wasted! pmsl!
Bladey
Which is why being single is the way to go ... no having to justify yourself to some crazed woman ... I want I get :happy1:
PITA about your crank ... nothing worse than waiting in expectation for something and it not turning up, even worse that it's being sent back!
Now just a waiting game.
All the best ... Barry
Quote from: bladey on Tuesday, 12 September 2023, 12:37 AMQuote from: BanditsHigh on Monday, 11 September 2023, 10:26 PMQuote from: bladey on Monday, 11 September 2023, 05:36 PMBarry see link for crankshaft on fleabay! Just in case u missed it!
Yes defo easy route is to try all methods to pop of rotor.. but if all else fails then block has to come out.
Thanks for link, but I won't be buying a crank until I confirm the K4 one is dead, as it's not only the crank but most likely main bearings (around £150 and up for a set) and big end bearings as well (around £80 a set), never mind what else has been damaged ... may be cheaper just buying an engine.
I need to watch the dosh these days, as I'm using up what little private pension I have to keep going (including paying the mortgage).
First step for me is to get headers off both bikes ... really looking forward to that!
All the best ... Barry
I know what u mean Bandit... I still have to figure out how I'm gona tell the missus I spent £110 on my crank.. when the old one ain't sorted.. GULP!
Got a text this morning from DPD saying Crankshaft would be with me between 1.30pm and 2.30pm... bloody thing never showed, check tracking and it said parcel is being sent back to sender! Started to panic thinking I missed delivery when I've practically parked my ass on the front door, so I phoned sender to ask what happened as no-one has knocked on my door, yet the parcel is being returned to him. He enquired and found out the DPD guys damaged the packaging, and rules are if package is damaged, to send back to sender!
So now I wait for the resend lol... feckin morning wasted! pmsl!
Bladey
I wish the DPD delivery boys had the same attitude here, Last week they delivered a new microwave and the box was badly duffed up, opened it and the microwave case was twisted out of square. Another new delivered yesterday but no bends this time. Bloody useless.