When I originally got my bike I rubbed down the fork legs and sprayed with satin black paint and then a satin clear coat..
Regretfully I didn't use an etch primer and there are some chips in the black paint starting to appear..
I was wondering about Powder Coating the fork legs BUT..
What happens to the compression adjuster that you cant remove?
Is this going to be damaged with the heat of the powder coating process?
I know there is a rubber seal in there somewhere..
Your thoughts please...
Your worries are spot on, as the powder coating process would potentially cause issues with the adjusters, in particular the seals. Unless the adjusters can be removed, i'd steer clear of powder coating the sliders.
From a peace of mind aspect, it may well be a case of rub down and re-spray - job for the winter months maybe.
Adjusters (K5 on) can be removed. I cleaned up a set of forks and had them clear powder coated - I reckon they look ok.
:hat:
:cheers:
I have found powder coating to be too brittle and easily chipped if in areas that are prone to stone chips,and tends to flake in bigger pieces than paint, It`s also a prick to remove if you want to redo something.
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=340.0 (https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=340.0)
I have lots of parts powder coated but not the fork sliders
@Speedy1959 has a very late k4 and I'm not sure if that is completely strip downable.
On our k5/6's I just rub the sliders down in the winter and smooth harmerite them in either black or silver .
They look ok most of the time but by the end of the year they are stone chipped again .
Powdercoating would also chip so it's much easier to just repaint for a few ££.
Though this year I might be paying a friend a visit to have them painted with a bit better quality paint/primer and skill than I have .
:cheers:
Hi Andre. The forks in that thread you've linked to must be pre-k5. Mine are different - don't have the plug just a locknut.
These are the powder coated ones.
Forget about the model you want to do but take note of Steve Porters post.
Black, yours look awesome. Have never powdercoated anything on 14 but have previous bikes. My lowers are still original, few marks but ok. My plan when needed was just Hammerite. Thats what i used on un repairable crash bars i bought. They came up almost perfect.
The powder coated ones are my original forks. Only put them back on a few weeks ago.
I get the comments about being tough stuff to remove. It is.
I think that the UK guys have more of an issue with the fork sliders due to the salt on the roads.
I do a lot of kms on the 14 so anything that requires regular maintenance for most is a non-starter for me.
My 10c.
Quote from: black14 on Thursday, 19 September 2019, 05:34 PM
These are the powder coated ones.
They look good, the reason I am wary is I had to get it removed from a frame back in the day as the front downtubes had flaked from stone chips and was actually rusting underneath the powder coating, major pain in the arse to strip compared to paint and it had only been done a couple of years earlier
Quote from: seth on Thursday, 19 September 2019, 04:59 PMThough this year I might be paying a friend a visit to have them painted with a bit better quality paint/primer and skill than I have .
:onya: :onya:
@seth I'm just about to start a couple of sets I have here one is going to be Sparkle Metallic black and the other I'm thinking a real dark gunmetal
Mine aren't ready to bring yet lol but they will be over the winter I have a few things to discus with you when I see you next
:cheers:
Polished is the way to go just a wipe with Meguars each month and no pitting :)
When I did mine 2 years ago I used very coarse wire wool and methylated spirits to rub down and degrease..
Considering I have done around 18,000 miles since I did them I really dont think they are too bad..
Next time round I will use Etch primer..
They had 6 coats of Simoniz Acrylic Satin Black, and then 6 coats of a Satin clear coat..
Seth was correct in that although my bike is an 05 plate its actually a K4
S.
I used etch primer, with Halfords wheel paint, and finished with a clear lacquer (a satin finish I think), and it's lasting pretty well.
The disappointing part for me was that the lacquer didn't add any thickness to the protective layer, in fact it just seemed to evaporate like it wasn't there, even after 5 coats.
Also... I just wish I'd spent more prep time as the paint highlights all the imperfections in the leg castings!
@Dusty ST - your correct about the clear coat you used more so as it was satin and a rattle can - to get the satin effect the clear is mixed with a very fine dust similar to the chalk dust used by tailors - they make the paint very thin so (mostly thinners) evaporate very quickly this allows the dust to sit on top of the clear lacquer giving the satin sheen - its worse with Matt finish
Polished the only way :)
Polished aside, whether powder coated or painted, once done, a covering of 50mm Helicopter Tape down the front leading edge of the slider will keep it looking spiffing for years. Available off eBay
Good thinking 99
I did try the Helicopter tape....
But be warned!! Get it right 1st time with the placement of the tape. DO NOT remove to "just get it a little straighter", as I did..
If you do it will remove chunks of the paint, which is why I had to repaint my forks in the first place..
This time around I didn't bother with the tape as I couldn't be sure of perfect placement!
I am just painting something with Hammerite. It says that it takes 2 weeks to achieve final hardness.
I recently painted my Center stand with Hammerite Gloss black..
Its a very old can of the stuff I have (15 - 20 years old)..
I used coarse wire wool and thoroughly de greased the Stand and painted on the Hammerite with a brush..
At the time I did it, I thought "what a crap job! Bloody brush marks galore"..
But the day after when I looked the brush marks had totally evened out and it very nearly looks like its been sprayed on.
So the slow drying works to your benefit in the end!
When I can be bothered, I shall use a Dremel / mini wire brush on some small areas of the frame that have surface rust and use the Hammerite..
For now I have just smeared grease over these areas to keep the rust at bay.
Hammerite does make a bad painter look good. Brilliant stuff. Speedy, it wont match up with other frame colour. Think one you need is BBQ black from memory. Barmy knows for sure, he was who told me.
Plasticote gloss black is also a good match for frame.
Quote from: grog on Saturday, 21 September 2019, 06:14 PM
Hammerite does make a bad painter look good. Brilliant stuff. Speedy, it wont match up with other frame colour. Think one you need is BBQ black from memory. Barmy knows for sure, he was who told me.
Grog,
Hammerite smooth Black worked brilliantly on my frame where it was chaffed from a motorcycle boot or something, I did buy a tin of hammerite brush on but I thought it was too thick to touch up a fairly visible part of the frame. I got the recommendation from someone here or on the old org.
Rick
Quote from: RickC on Saturday, 21 September 2019, 09:51 PM
Quote from: grog on Saturday, 21 September 2019, 06:14 PM
Hammerite does make a bad painter look good. Brilliant stuff. Speedy, it wont match up with other frame colour. Think one you need is BBQ black from memory. Barmy knows for sure, he was who told me.
Grog,
Hammerite smooth Black worked brilliantly on my frame where it was chaffed from a motorcycle boot or something, I did buy a tin of hammerite brush on but I thought it was too thick to touch up a fairly visible part of the frame. I got the recommendation from someone here or on the old org.
Rick
Hammerite mat (frosted) in tin can be thinned with white spirit (my experience). Smooth may be different though.
Quote from: Speedy1959 on Saturday, 21 September 2019, 12:27 PM
I did try the Helicopter tape....
But be warned!! Get it right 1st time with the placement of the tape. DO NOT remove to "just get it a little straighter", as I did..
If you do it will remove chunks of the paint, which is why I had to repaint my forks in the first place..
This time around I didn't bother with the tape as I couldn't be sure of perfect placement!
Very true - best way to apply is not to try to do it all at once, take a small piece off from the top, but then lay it on from th ebottom to ensure alignment before sticking the top piece on, then roll the backing tape off as you smooth it down with a cloth