Copper nuts on engine headers, Is there room to do this, shitter project managed to live up to its reputation with almost every bolt snapping. Not that I'm likely to take exhaust off again but?
I think it depends on what system you put on, some have less room than others.
Get some copper grease and use it on the threads when reassembling, works a treat, I have been using it for ever and never had a nut seize once it's on the thread
Or use studs/nuts.
Just took delivery of stainless exhaust bolts, they came supplied with copper grease.
Obvious Irish you think bolts are better than studs. Maybe nuts are bit bulky for that area? Allen key high tensile in stainless best option? Never seize is my addition, used forever.
The studs are not the problem. Its the combination of headers and the nuts.
You cannot fit a socket 17mm on the nuts to tighten them down. DUe to the inaccesability you cant use spanners.
Some smarter supplier ...supply metric 8 mm brass nuts with a smaller hex. From memory 14mm. Those are okay if you use thin sockets
Quote from: grog on Saturday, 04 April 2020, 07:21 PM
Obvious Irish you think bolts are better than studs. Maybe nuts are bit bulky for that area? Allen key high tensile in stainless best option? Never seize is my addition, used forever.
Actually I prefer studs, my logic is that the stud can stop on the end of the tapped hole thus putting less torque on the alloy thread.
All my classic bikes I re stud and use the deep copper nuts as mentioned by Blubber. Box spanner is a good tightening tool
These bolts are for the Bandit and it seems that may be the way they where from new.
These will probably be the best option.
Or..get a brass hex bar, put them in the lathe , drill and tap them
I used studs that are 8mm one end & 6mm t'other.
No probs with socket.