Hi all,
I've read the excellent "Howto" which is downloadable on here..
To sum up it says "Balance 1 to 2 then 3 to 4 using the underneath screws...Finally balance 1+2 to 3+4 using
the adjuster screw between 2 and 3. You only need to move them a tiny amount at a time".
That's brilliant advice and I have been out with a torch and a mirror to view the screws location..
I easily found the outer screws (for 1 to 2 and 3 to 4) but could not locate the screw "located between 2 and 3"..
Is this screw located above? In other words accessed from the top ??
Thanks in advance,
S.
Yup, from the top. It's the cross head one in the middle. (Not saying Philips as it's most likely JIS)
Quote from: KiwiCol on Wednesday, 04 September 2019, 05:03 PM
Yup, from the top. It's the cross head one in the middle. (Not saying Philips as it's most likely JIS)
Brilliant!
Thanks Col for the very fast response..
S.
@Speedy1959 These pictures are in the thread I was on about the other day .
I'll add them here as it helps others find them in the future .
1 and 2 are underneath to synchronise 1-2 and 3-4 .
3 is in the top and used to synchronise the 2 sides(1/2 and 3/4).
Also shows the fast idle adjuster as this can change as you get the throttlebodies closer to being synchronise.
Hope all goes well buddy .
:onya:
Thanks seth..
I did see the photo but couldn't tell if it was the top or bottom of the throttle bodies..
Don't forget I haven't removed my tank yet and so I cant see the details that the photo shows..
As with any procedure I haven't done before (on Sophie) I like to learn the "How to" before I actually do it.. That way avoiding little surprises.
Thanks again for your info / photo
S
Agreed, I'm the same. Read through the 'how to' & go over the procedure mentally first.
Just remember you'll only need small movements of the screws to sort this no massive turns on any of the screws will be required .
And take your time there's no rush if things get to hot just stop and go back after a short break . :onya:
@Speedy1959 Since you haven't done this before it might take a bit of time. Set up a ventilator to blow from front. As the IAP sensor gets disconnected for the procedure the bike runs in Fail Safe Mode. That makes it run funky when engine gets very hot (as in cooler fan activation temp reached).
[quote (as in cooler fan activation temp reached).
[/quote]
Do you mean that the fan does not come on when it should do?
I read it that in fail-safe mode the fan cuts in at a lower temp, ie before it really should.
No, that is not what I mean. The fan does come on. But there are a number of values and settings in the EFI that are set to a fix value. (see attached table).
Quote from: Hooli on Thursday, 05 September 2019, 10:30 PM
I read it that in fail-safe mode the fan cuts in at a lower temp, ie before it really should.
The fan is not part of the EFI. The only thing that controls the fan is the thermo-switch. There is no connection to the ECU.
This morning I changed the Plugs, & Air Filter...
After that and whilst the tank was still up in the air I thought I may as well have a go with the Throttle synch..
Without doubt the very best TIP OF THE DAY was given to me by Seth...
On the phone he suggested I rotated the tank 90 degrees and place it across the seat rails (on a Rug or Towel to protect Tank and Rails)....
If your going to do this then pull the tank rearwards and rotate clockwise, so that the rear of the tank is facing left (as your sat on the bike)..
No need to disconnect fuel pipes or wiring..
Doing this gives brilliant access to the adjuster screw that balances the 1 & 2 bodies with the 3 & 4 bodies..
Spark plugs looked a pretty good colour to me..
I have attached a photo of the readings I got after I had played around for half an hour..
They are near enough for me.. Keep in mind the levels fluctuate with the pulses of the cylinder.
Time for a ride out now...
S.
Here's a pic of mine when I did it. Thing I notice on yours is the levels are at 28, mine at 25/26? Wonder why the difference? What sort of air filter do you have Speedy? What revs were you doing it at?
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/5-220619103251.jpeg)
Hi Col
The air filter is a HiFlo.
The revs were tickover of 1100 rpm
I've got a K & N & my revs were around 1200 for setting. All good, both fine.
Don't forget the weather will affect the reading too. It'll be 'x' below the ambient air pressure as far as I understand things.
x will of course vary according to revs & if the engine is warmed up & so on.
Cheers Hooli, hadn't remembered the temp.
Hi all - just bought myself a synchroniser for the TB's - can someone tell me where the vacuum line nipples are located? Manual is is underwhelming in this regard..pictures anyone?
Arrow 1 in the pic points to one of the hoses that sits on one of the nipples. There are a total of 5 nipples though. 4 of them (ones with the inter-connected hoses) you connect to the balancer. The one that arrow 2 points to needs to be blocked. It is on TB #3 and the hose attached to it goes to the PAIR valve. If your PAIR valve (or that hose to it) is leaky you may have problems balancing. BTW a leaky PAIR valve can be an overlooked vaccum leak item for TB #3.
While you are at it replace those hoses.
Perfect - thanks heaps Andre.
Quote from: Barbara Kay on Tuesday, 31 December 2019, 04:04 PM
Perfect - thanks heaps Andre.
Hi Barbara,
How did you go with the balancing?
Issues I had were fast idle was 3500-4000rpm, F1 C28 code, running a bit rough down low and "seemed" a bit down on power.
So I balanced the throttle bodies yesterday, first chucked in a new set of plugs, (first time since I've owned the bike, so well past due). NGK plugs that came out looked ok, 2 and 3 and bit darker than 1 and 4. Warmed the bike up first, idle set at 1100rpm. Ambient temps 25 deg C, K&N filter cleaned and re-oiled too.) Removed the IAS solenoid and vacuum lines, hooked up my Morgan Carbtune pro.(The tip about putting the tank across the seat rails is brilliant, works well). Anyways, found 1 was out from 2 by about 20mm Hg (26 to 28), and 3+4 were both out by 30mm Hg from 2. Synchronised 1 to 2, dead easy with the adjuster screw below (bought the right angled screw driver from Morgan Carbtune as well), then balanced 3 and 4. Set 1+2 to 3+4 after that, now all running around 28 mmHg. Adjusted TPS and STPS after that.
Found that when doing the STPS, there was a discrepancy between 1+2 and 3+4 when closing the throttle valves manually through the air box. Having the multimeter hooked up, when closing the throttles on 1 or 2, the STPS read 830 ish Ohms, when doing the same for 3+4, the STPS was reading about 804 ohms. Holding 1+2 closed, I could feel some play in the lever for 3+4. There's a Phillips head (or JIS) adjusted between 3+4 facing upwards. The same one between 1+2 is nearly impossible to get to. I adjusted 3+4 until I got 805 ohms for both 1+2 and 3+4 secondary throttles when closing manually through the air box. Put it all back together, fired it up and fast idle went to 2000rpm, dropping back to 1500rpm after about 30 seconds and then settling to 1100 rpm after about a minute. Let it run for 5 minutes, revved it to 6500-7000rpm a few items, no rough spots or spluttering. Yet to go for a ride, it's been too wet, but it definitely idles and sounds much smoother.
Well done. Sounds as if you've got that running sweet now.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Sunday, 19 April 2020, 02:57 PM
Issues I had were fast idle was 3500-4000rpm, F1 C28 code, running a bit rough down low and "seemed" a bit down on power.
So I balanced the throttle bodies yesterday, first chucked in a new set of plugs, (first time since I've owned the bike, so well past due). NGK plugs that came out looked ok, 2 and 3 and bit darker than 1 and 4. Warmed the bike up first, idle set at 1100rpm. Ambient temps 25 deg C, K&N filter cleaned and re-oiled too.) Removed the IAS solenoid and vacuum lines, hooked up my Morgan Carbtune pro.....
Ordered my Morgan Pro on the 19 March. Still in the mail. I'm jealous. :frustrated:
Did you get the right angle screw driver too? Makes it soooo easy
Got the chance to balance the air flow and results are below:
Setup of the CarbTune Pro with tank unbolted and spun anticlockwise and laid out on a towel along the frame which the seat sits on. Good Idea thanks guys :onya:
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/783-210520140904-8682263.jpeg)
Before even touching a anything this is what it looked like:
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/783-210520140911-8772297.jpeg)
After 10 minutes of tweaking:
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/783-210520140920-8781430.jpeg)
Effect has been very very good.
Out on the road at any rev's bike sounds quieter and hums like a sewing machine.
No more vibrations through the handlebars. The bike is definitely less rattle than before.
De-accelerating is very smooth.
Gear changing is very smooth (pulling in the clutch and changing either up or down).
No more jerking when bike goes over bumps/potholes etc even when trying to hold a steady throttle position (a pet hate previously).
A lot of things contribute to the bikes responsiveness and acceleration BUT this balancing the throttles has been a great improvement on the quality of ride. Thanks guys :onya:
Good result. Did you check and adjust TPS and STPS afterwards? Mine were all balanced at just over 28cmHg but i found that my fast idle and STPS was out. After adjusting them all golfen. Def happy with my Carbtune Pro. Exhaust note sounds throatier (Akra titanium muffler and 4-1 stainless downpipes) and it pulls strong in all gears.
I did balanced mine.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PDB2RWn4df2D5K3NgJRQjYS3g2BfYmaO/view?usp=sharing
The thing is that on idle they are synced but on higher revs like 3000-4000 there is slightly difference. So I decide to live it balanced on idle.
That's probably as the secondary throttles won't be perfectly in sync & only at one opening will they match with the throttles & give a balanced reading.
No way I know of to solve that, but if or when I have the TBs off I manually balance the secondaries by locking them in one place at the motor & adjusting them so a drill bit fits exactly the same between them & the edge of the bore in the TB. This trick also works as a rough balance for the main throttles if you've had the TBs totally apart, it saves a lot of time balancing them afterwards.