I didn't ride this bike before I stripped it so I don't know if the clutch was slipping sticking then or if it's something I've done during the re-build. The cover was removed for painting but nothing touched internally. The slave cylinder and push rod were removed.
Clutches will stick if left for a long time but with this bike it's every day. I have to put it on the centre stand and rev it hard in 1st gear with clutch in & rear brake on to free it. Once free the clutch works perfectly eg. no slip, goes in to 1st well, changes great & neutral is easy to get. I'm using the same diesel oil I've used in the other 14 for the last 100,000km+ so I don't think there's a problem there.
I'll investigate tomorrow but thought I'd see if any of you have had the same issue.
I had the same problem in my old GS 1000 G, and it was the oil additives vs clutch plates. I changed oil manufacturer, not the oil type,
and it went over. Are you sure you don't have aftermarket plates?
Take the plates out & clean them in petrol?
It worked on my Bonnie when I had similar issues & they were contaminated with oil oily crud. The extra detergent abilities of diesel oil could have washed crud free elsewhere that's got stuck in the clutch.
If it's been apart there will be something slightly misaligned or the slaves cylinder might be slightly sticky.
Has
@Hooli says if your taking it apart give everything a clean check the edges of the plates and the clutch basket to just to be sure everything is ok 😎
Everything looked OK internally but I replaced the diesel with a semi synthetic 10W 30. Being cold of a morning I thought the thinner 30 grade oil mixed with the residue thicker diesel should do the job. The bike behaved perfectly on a test ride but we'll find out in the morning if it sticks. Fingers crossed.
Fingers crossed. My old gs1000 was a shocker for it. Only Suzuki that did it. Can leave 14 for a month, no prob. Reckon/hope oil will fix.
Quite a successful day really. After doing the 14's clutch I decided I'd have a go at finding why my CL450 keeps blowing fuses.
I had no idea where to start looking but luckily I pulled the right rein by disconnecting every wire in the headlight & with the multimeter set for noise I re-connected the wires one by one hoping that it goes off. It did & a study of the wiring diagram showed the neutral light was shorting. The bloody rubber boot that holds the light in the tacho was split.
It was a time consuming way to find the problem but I can't think of a better one.
Just gotta sort the flooding carby, charging and plug cap issues now.
So, did just changing the oil fix the problem Pete or was it more involved.
Good news on the CL450 too.
Quote from: Sweaty on Sunday, 07 July 2019, 09:28 AM
So, did just changing the oil fix the problem Pete or was it more involved.
Good news on the CL450 too.
Good & bad news Steve. I don't know if soaking the clutch plates in petrol or the 10W30 did the trick but the clutch was perfect this morning. :)
The Honda on the other hand I'm still shorting out. I fixed the neutral light connection, connected the wires, put a fuse in and tested it. Lights, blinkers, horn, starter, everything worked perfectly so I cable tied the loose wires & tried it again. You guessed it ... blown fucking fuse. :furious:
It looks like my repair didn't work so I take the tacho off the CL350 .... same bloody thing. Where do I go now? After this coffee I'll remove the neutral switch & hopefully there's the problem.
Good result with clutch. Electrics another story.
Bloody electrics could drive you mad Pete. They don't drive me mad, because I wouldn't have a F**king clue where to start in the first place :)
I'd tackle the blowing fuse issue by disconnecting everything that you can..Then ignition on and plug things back in one at a time until the fuse blows. It's probably going to be a chaffed wire somewhere. Probably around the head stock area.
Good Luck :onya:
Quote from: froudy on Sunday, 07 July 2019, 07:38 PM
I'd tackle the blowing fuse issue by disconnecting everything that you can..Then ignition on and plug things back in one at a time until the fuse blows. It's probably going to be a chaffed wire somewhere. Probably around the head stock area.
Good Luck :onya:
Exactly what I did Froudy but used a multimeter with audio instead of a fuse. That's how I found the short in the neutral light. Going through the same process it still showed the neutral switch/light but knowing the light is OK I looked at the switch. Trouble here is I'm not sure if that's the problem so I took the switch from the 350 ... totally different switch. Look at the manual which tells me to check switch. How to test it might help Mr Honda.
Not finished yet ... I now get indication of a faulty RH blinker.
I think the time has come for a complete rewire or at least someone who knows what they're doing.
I'd assume the switch provides an earth path when the bike is in neutral.
Here's the latest photo of this effing Honda. Since then the main loom has been removed for new insulation although a thorough check showed no faults/shorts. Every other part that comes off that loom has also checked out OK. This bike was running perfectly until I cable tied the wiring so I think somewhere in that loom is a broken wire. I'm hoping when I strip the loom I'll find something.