Hi,
Just had the Fi light come on last week, bike started running like a pig.
It was running really well beforehand, done the dealer thing and it threw up the code C11 camshaft sensor.
So I coughed up the money, just fitted it and the bikes still running like a pig.
Any ideas, tested connector voltage and it's showing 4.7 so that's ok according to the manual.
:cheers:
Is it still showing the C11 code?
Check the clutch switch by the clutch lever. If they go faulty it can cause all sorts of problems, including very rough running :onya:
Thanks Froudy, when I bought it I replaced this switch as a precaution..
It's not showing c11 now but when it first happened the fi light was intermittent.
Not sure where to start with this one.
Cheers.
Yes, that is a tough one. Even more though since it was intermittent. Check earth. Check/clean all the connectors and measure for short/open circuit of the wires interfacing with the cam sensor (see wiring diagram in the manual).
Mate, more info on running like a pig, whats it doing? Is F1 light still on?
Cheers all,
I'm thinking battery as the Fi light isnt on now but hear a prolonged whine from a relay today.
Checked battery and it's showing 12.01v where yesterday was 12.85.
Stuck on charge overnight so fingers crossed it's a new one just. :cheers:
:cheers: :cheers:
Oh well, new heavier duty yuasa battery no difference.
New secondhand ecu from a reputable breakers no difference, STPS coming this week. It's either that or actuator.. STVA tests ok and moves but it's humming for maybe ten seconds once the engine dies and when you power up.
I dropped the 14 when the Fi cut out a nearly zero mph luckily trying to turn off a main Rd!
Thankfully the engine bars done the job,but she got gradually worse when I got home only 1km away.
It s lump to stand up,thinking I maybe damaged the Stp sensor.
Fingers crossed.
The actuator cam moves but I'm thinking if it's not getting the proper voltage reading from ecu regarding STPS?
:whatever:
Cheers.
Could be the tilt sensor. If they lie down, there is a sensor that can play up. Think it's designed to cut out the motor if it's down. Sometime the bike runs ok after a fall, sometimes it doesn't. Can't be sure it's called a tilt sensor, but it's on the RHS near the airbox from recall.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Thursday, 06 June 2019, 10:38 AM
Could be the tilt sensor. If they lie down, there is a sensor that can play up. Think it's designed to cut out the motor if it's down. Sometime the bike runs ok after a fall, sometimes it doesn't. Can't be sure it's called a tilt sensor, but it's on the RHS near the airbox from recall.
Suzuki calls it a " tip over sensor "
People on here have reported failures of it but not many. Even seen a thread... Think its stickied under electrical.
Anyhow... Hope you do find the cause :onya:
:cheers:Was looking for that that but couldn't see it.
I checked oil temp sensor also and getting no reading according to the workshop manual.
Can someone explain the best way to take off the electrical connectors to the injectors cause I need some free play in the loom to fit the new STP sensor.
Thanks all for your input.
Cheers
Quote from: Malarky on Thursday, 06 June 2019, 06:30 PM
I checked oil temp sensor also and getting no reading according to the workshop manual.
Sounds like you found the problem. Makes the system run in fail-safe mode which could explain it running like a pig.
Quote...the engine running condition is not complete, providing only emergency help
Among many other things the secondary throttle valve is fixed to half open position and the oil temp to 80°. Not something you should be riding with as it is designed for just limping home.
Cheers Andre
I have a new eot sensor coming, anyone ever fitted one without taking the oil lines off.
As for limp home mode, it's unrideable as it is. Strange that it's not putting up any error codes only the first one for cam sensor.
You have flushed the big grey multiplug under the LH side panel out with contact cleaner by now haven't you?
That can cause all sorts of problems & I'm pretty sure all the engine sensor wiring runs through it to the ECU.
All the connectors are in pretty good shape, just bought a new meter today and the readings are different.
Everything is within resistance tolerances and no Fi codes except the first intermittent cam sensor code which was replaced with oem new part from Robinsons.
Purchased a set of throttle bodies from Oz today, still have an inkling that is the Stv actuator motor as it won't fast idle on cold start and hang revs, won't rev cleanly.
Happened all of a sudden then got worse,clean throttle body assembly of an 08 Aussie bike purchased for €200.
There's a hum for fifteen seconds after I switch on the ignition from the STVA motor which I've never heard before.
Can only assume it's that..
Any input appreciated as it's short season here In sunny Eire!!
:cheers:
What model 14 are you fitting the new throttle bodies to? Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I have a vague recollection that there were some slight differences between the K2-4 throttle bodies and the K5 on.
It's from an 08 gsxbarmy
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=761.msg9681#msg9681 (http://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=761.msg9681#msg9681)
Quotebigian14
Re: Sensors or fuel rail
« Reply #8 on: April 06, 2017, 05:26:19 »
I've probably got a set of K7 bodies for sale, includes fuel rail and all sensors. Was a bit too quick off the mark buying them, (see my posts regarding C28 error code). :facepalm:
Just looking to recoup what they cost me, £170, (slightly negotiable). Will post free within UK.
I believe, or so I have been informed, that the only difference between K1 bodies and the rest is that one has a steel fuel rail while the other is ally.
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Friday, 07 June 2019, 04:53 PM
What model 14 are you fitting the new throttle bodies to? Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I have a vague recollection that there were some slight differences between the K2-4 throttle bodies and the K5 on.
The material of the fuel rail is different (aluminium VS steel) and the ears / aluminium covers are different in shape.