I'm planning on draining the oil and while it is drained take the engine covers off and clean them up and either polish them or paint them black when I paint the engine. In my quest to resurrect my late fathers bike.
Do I need to replace the gaskets if they come off clean or can you re-use them?
Also am I right in thinking it is 4.8l of oil?
I am also planning on removing the exhaust headers and collector to try and clean those up, however this will depend on whether the header bolts play nicely I think they may snap I might just clean it up the best I can until I can afford to replace the whole system.
If the gasket comes off clean you be fine reusing them. A very fine wipe of silicon sealant or hylomar will not hurt on reassembly.
Oil it states 4.7 litres might be 4.8 Litres Im not a 100% on that but fill up slowly checking on the level window as there is always some oil in the cooler
Now the exhaust header bolts are a pernicity little blighters - and very very prone to snapping so take your time - I removed the oil cooler and soaked them in Innotec penetrating fluid and a good few chaps with a hammer to break the grab the bolts have on teh head - After a few days heated up with burning gear - I made sure there was a good fit for teh Allen socket and then with a 3/8 drive long breaker bar gently worked out then in then out then in until they came free - now once out I applied some copper grease to bolts and put back in this takes the strain off the remaining bolt on the same pipe and all this and I still managed to snap one - good luck if you do go ahead
If you want to give the piped a good clean then Harpic Max10 some wire wool - there are lots of how toos on youtube on this
Del
Quote from: mjgt on Saturday, 27 April 2019, 11:22 PM
If the gasket comes off clean you be fine reusing them. A very fine wipe of silicon sealant or hylomar will not hurt on reassembly.
Thank you
Quote from: Del on Saturday, 27 April 2019, 11:37 PM
Oil it states 4.7 litres might be 4.8 Litres Im not a 100% on that but fill up slowly checking on the level window as there is always some oil in the cooler
Now the exhaust header bolts are a pernicity little blighters - and very very prone to snapping so take your time - I removed the oil cooler and soaked them in Innotec penetrating fluid and a good few chaps with a hammer to break the grab the bolts have on teh head - After a few days heated up with burning gear - I made sure there was a good fit for teh Allen socket and then with a 3/8 drive long breaker bar gently worked out then in then out then in until they came free - now once out I applied some copper grease to bolts and put back in this takes the strain off the remaining bolt on the same pipe and all this and I still managed to snap one - good luck if you do go ahead
If you want to give the piped a good clean then Harpic Max10 some wire wool - there are lots of how toos on youtube on this
Del
Thank you for the tips I'm hoping that because it only has 11,000 miles the bolts won't be too bad but will take my time.
I think they are the original headers so just going to clean up as best I can
@paulr5604 mine had 13K on it when I did attempted mine
Quote from: paulr5604 on Saturday, 27 April 2019, 11:15 PM
Do I need to replace the gaskets if they come off clean or can you re-use them?
I always replace the gaskets as I haven't had one come off intact. Also you need "Three Bond" (or an alternative) for the mating points of the two engine block halves. Don't use a metal tool to clean the surfaces (where the gaskets are). Wood and plastic works fine.
Quote from: paulr5604 on Saturday, 27 April 2019, 11:15 PM
Also am I right in thinking it is 4.8l of oil?
Manual states: Without filter change 4.2 liter, with filter change 4.8 liter. About 4.7 liters got me right between min/max. After changing the oil you need to run the engine a few minutes at idle, then turn off and wait a few minutes before checking the level. Always use a new copper gasket (or anneal the old one), screw the sump plug in by hand and tighten to specified torque (23 N.m (2.3 kgf.m, 16.5 lb-ft) as it will be a real bitch if you damage the thread of the sump. Pay attention that the rubber ring comes off with the old filter.
Quote from: Del on Sunday, 28 April 2019, 02:53 AM
@paulr5604 mine had 13K on it when I did attempted mine
Thanks for the warning if I get them out without snapping I will clean the threads up with a tap and die set and apply copper grease to reduce the chance of them sticking/welding themselves in.
Quote from: Andre on Sunday, 28 April 2019, 03:35 AM
Quote from: paulr5604 on Saturday, 27 April 2019, 11:15 PM
Do I need to replace the gaskets if they come off clean or can you re-use them?
I always replace the gaskets as I haven't had one come off intact. Also you need "Three Bond" (or an alternative) for the mating points of the two engine block halves. Don't use a metal tool to clean the surfaces (where the gaskets are). Wood and plastic works fine.
Quote from: paulr5604 on Saturday, 27 April 2019, 11:15 PM
Also am I right in thinking it is 4.8l of oil?
Manual states: Without filter change 4.2 liter, with filter change 4.8 liter. About 4.7 liters got me right between min/max. After changing the oil you need to run the engine a few minutes at idle, then turn off and wait a few minutes before checking the level. Always use a new copper gasket (or anneal the old one), screw the sump plug in by hand and tighten to specified torque (23 N.m (2.3 kgf.m, 16.5 lb-ft) as it will be a real bitch if you damage the thread of the sump. Pay attention that the rubber ring comes off with the old filter.
Thank you for taking the time to reply with the helpful tips. I would always replace the copper washer on the sump plug.
Or use a fumoto valve.
Fumoto is a good idea in theory but reduces clearance slightly making more susceptible to damage. Horses for courses but I stick with the plug and a you must use a new washer each time.
I manage to remove the headers from my bike (at around 80,000 kms) to clean them up, without snapping any bolts. Of course it's an akro system so obviously the headers were removed at least once! And I suspect the previous owner
@Bov likely had them off at least another time to clean them.
What condition are the engine covers? It's big chance to polish them when they are on the engine. You have to be patient and carefoul ;). Then You wouldn't need to replace the gaskets.
But if you will take them off - new gaskets.
In my gixx when I'm changing the oil I also drawing out oil from the cooler so all change tooks my 5 litres of oil :onya:
Quote from: KoZi on Monday, 29 April 2019, 05:11 PM
What condition are the engine covers? It's big chance to polish them when they are on the engine. You have to be patient and carefoul ;). Then You wouldn't need to replace the gaskets.
But if you will take them off - new gaskets.
In my gixx when I'm changing the oil I also drawing out oil from the cooler so all change tooks my 5 litres of oil :onya:
Thanks I have started the sanding process on the engine covers while they are on the bike and if I can get them looking good on the bike I won't take them off.
I drained the oil yesterday in case I need to take the covers off and the oil looked really good as if it was fairly fresh oil and the magnet on the sump plug had nothing on it.
Paulr, cases will come up nice without removing. I use foam pads, they go from rough to smooth, colour tells which is which. Can get conical ones also for edges. I just use Autosol to start with. often does whole job. Other finishing polish is your choice. Ive amazed myself with how good. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/18pcs-75mm-3inch-High-Gross-Polishing-Pad-Kit-Sponge-Car-Foam-Buffing-Pad-P-K4E3/352606073810?epid=15011616237&hash=item5218f5b3d2:g:U1MAAOSwvtBcd~Rt
Quote from: grog on Monday, 29 April 2019, 07:09 PM
Paulr, cases will come up nice without removing. I use foam pads, they go from rough to smooth, colour tells which is which. Can get conical ones also for edges. I just use Autosol to start with. often does whole job. Other finishing polish is your choice. Ive amazed myself with how good. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/18pcs-75mm-3inch-High-Gross-Polishing-Pad-Kit-Sponge-Car-Foam-Buffing-Pad-P-K4E3/352606073810?epid=15011616237&hash=item5218f5b3d2:g:U1MAAOSwvtBcd~Rt
Thanks Grog, do you use autosol on each pad or do you just use the pads dry?
not dry. just choose your polish. i like autosol, others like diff stuff. barmy the master. meguairs his choice. ive tried purple, waste of time. can buy blocks of diff grade paste, some swear by it. https://www.polish-up.com.au/brands/Orion.html
Quote from: grog on Monday, 29 April 2019, 08:20 PM
not dry. just choose your polish. i like autosol, others like diff stuff. barmy the master. meguairs his choice. ive tried purple, waste of time. can buy blocks of diff grade paste, some swear by it. https://www.polish-up.com.au/brands/Orion.html
Thanks very much