So I finally plucked up enough courage to remove my old rusty and blowing exhaust headers. It didn't go very well. Four of the bolts broke off.
I have read the "An Approach to Header Bolt Removal" and lined up a mate to help but in the planning it seems that the frame will get in the way of chuck of the drill while accessing two of the bolts.
What is the best way around this? or is it not a problem? (Ill post some pictures tomorrow if that helps)
My plan is to drill a small pilot hole (2mm which are short hence my first question) and then work out from there but is it worth trying left handed bits?
Greetings
@Milesy :onya:
Pop along to the newbie section and say hello..There's a good man ;) http://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?board=20.0
DO NOT try using left hand bits or even worse..Stud extractors. If you snap a stud extractor off you're well and truly f*cked.
Get some long drill bits and start small..Gradually go up in size until you get the snapped bolt out...6mm normally does the trick. Lots of Plus-Gas penetrating spray too.
Do not drill too deep as you can end up drilling into an oil way resulting in the head being scrap. You will "feel" as the drill bit goes through the bolt..That's the time to stop drilling.
Clean the threads up with an 8mm tap and replace with stainless Allen bolt cap heads or studs and nuts...M8x25mm and lots of Nickel-slip anti seize grease.
Have fun...Good Luck :onya:
Thanks for the advice, Ill get some ordered.
I did do a intro back in August :hat: :embarrassed:
@Milesy - in all honesty, unless you are confident of doing it yourself, it might be advisable to take the engine out and take it to a local engineering firm to drill the old studs out as they will have the necessary hardened drill bits and will be able to do it properly first time. Trust me those studs are quite hard, the reason they snap in the first place is because the stainless bolts react with the alloy head. Myself that's what I'd do rather than mess around, costs a few pennies more than doing yourself, but not stupidly expensive
I agree with Barmy here I tried to remove a broken tap on my bandit and spent a small fortune on all sorts on bits & pieces - was at it 3 days and got no where - ended up taking to a local place and he had it removed in less than a shift - best £80.00 I spent
Hi milesy
I did the same and I did remove four from mine ,but I was lucky and it took time , if I had it again I'd let the engineers do the job, but now it's done I do take my headers off at least 6 monthly to clean and to clean the bolts and put on some light oil for the bolts and nuts just to make it an easier job mate :onya:
Not knowing if a mobile laser extractor in your area. I had some broken studs removed this way. Also some broken bleeder nipples. All came up perfect and reasonable cost. I know it USA site but must be similar your way. http://extractit.com/
Oh yeah fikkin lazer beams :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:
when I had this issue, I take engine out, and take it to welding company.
Using TIG welding, nut was attached to broken bolt, and then it was extracted. Can't say it was easy - first guy was not able to do it, and then older, more experience welder finish the job...
Del, worked on my dilemma. Not sure you like idea or dont. Whatever works i reckon.
Quote from: northern on Saturday, 20 April 2019, 06:23 PM
when I had this issue, I take engine out, and take it to welding company.
Using TIG welding, nut was attached to broken bolt, and then it was extracted. Can't say it was easy - first guy was not able to do it, and then older, more experience welder finish the job...
I have done that same welding trick with arc welding and using Certanium 707 SP welding rod many times.
I know, there is special rod for that use, but i can't remember it now, but 707 will work too.
Everyone thanks for all the advice.
I have a discovered a friend of a friend who lives in pushing distance of me and is willing to help. He also has a bike lift, a welder and much more experience than me with this sort of thing.
Our/his plan is to strip the front end off to give the best access and then try the welding trick if that fails i guess it will be down to slowly drilling the bolts out.
Ill let you all know how it goes
Here is the update on the removal of broken studs. After getting some good access
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/1703-280419061510.jpeg)
and then with plenty of patience finally all 4 broken studs were out. This is what was left.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/1703-280419064811.jpeg)
Time to go back together.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/1703-280419062913.jpeg)
Well done Milesy and mate! Great job getting that out.
Well done there are known to be an utter pain to get out and seam to be made of toffee .
:onya:
well done fella definitely a job not for the feign hearted :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:
When I did my exhaust bolts I converted to nuts & studs, no more wuckin furries about seized bolts or stripped threads.
Quote from: Cykik on Monday, 29 April 2019, 06:11 AM
When I did my exhaust bolts I converted to nuts & studs, no more wuckin furries about seized bolts or stripped threads.
I did the same! Stainless steel studs wrapped with teflon tape and closed stainless steel nuts. :cheers:
Agree, we love studs. Loctite them in.
Quote from: Cykik on Monday, 29 April 2019, 06:11 AM
When I did my exhaust bolts I converted to nuts & studs, no more wuckin furries about seized bolts or stripped threads.
Thats exactly what I've done. Off to get the MOT later this week. :onya: