This might well be a dumb question, but I'm wondering how tight the chain should be.
The manual says 20 to 30mm of vertical movement in the middle of the chain lower run, with the bike on the sidestand. I thought this was what I had, but when I took the bike for an MOT test the tester mentioned that it was too tight.
I have to take him seriously because he's an experienced bike mechanic, so maybe I've got it wrong and I am pushing and pulling too hard to test the up-and-down movement in the chain.
Any thoughts from the esteemed panel of experts here?
It depends on weather youv'e set it on the centre stand or on the side stand ? ... ive also noticed the chain seems to tighten up when you retighten the spindle nut so its best to check after retightening .
Likely you push/pull to hard.
This expert shows you how "hard" to do it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYuXSppaiKM
Nice one Andre, best video I have seen on the subject. I particularly like the tip on watching the upper chain run.
Thx Andre, good find.
Well found
@Andre I like my chains just on the slack side of the adjustment limit and it's well explained in this .
As he said to tight destroys gearboxes and sprocket carrier bearings .
Too loss dangerous.
Great find buddy
:onya:
That's excellent! Top man Andre :hat:
Thanks all :)
Highly recommend searching for "Dave Moss" (different channels) on YT. Mostly about suspension but also has some other good stuff.
Make sure to check chain tension with wheel tight as l have also found chain tightens when wheel is done up.
Good vid Andre. :onya:
Yeah Andre, a good video. Kiwi, stick rag/ towell between chain n sprocket when tightening.
Grog, any particular colour towel you find best to slip past the eagle eye of management :facepalm:
Hi Col, to facilitate a supply of towels in the garage, for cleaning, hands, soaking up oil & also chain tightening, how I do it is this: wait (never very long) till Briscoes have a sale of towels on, go & get a few, I got 4 large spa towels last time, on special at $8.00 each, bring them home & she'll say, what have you got them for?? we've got plenty of towels!! Then you say 'They're for the garage, handy for spills n stuff', Then she'll say, you're not taking brand new towels out there!! Give them here & I'll give you some old ones you can have for out there.
Works every time.
The funny bit is, a couple of days ago, there wasn't any I could have! :happy1:
Too cunning Col........ :clapping:
Quote from: seth on Monday, 06 August 2018, 03:29 AM
Well found @Andre
As he said to tight destroys gearboxes and sprocket carrier bearings .
Too loss dangerous.
When I first started playing with bikes I was told...
"Too tight kills the motor, too lose kills the rider, do it right and check it!"
Sticking an old rag in the sprocket worked a treat to stop the chain tightening up when I redid the axle nut. There's always a rag left over after you've cleaned all the crap off the chain anyway, might as well use it.
I reckon it's bang on now. Much quieter, gear changes nice and slick, colour me happy.
Quote from: Kiwifruit on Monday, 06 August 2018, 10:26 AM
Make sure to check chain tension with wheel tight as l have also found chain tightens when wheel is done up.
Good vid Andre. :onya:
I used to do mine up in stages of torque for exactly that reason, "stopping" every 15ft/lb or so, holding onto the grab rail and giving the rear tyre a good kick from behind before checking the gap on the adjuster bolts with calipers. I found then that most times, the gap was spot-on after the final torquing of the axle nut.
Also do remember when tightening the rear wheel that the bolt on the torque arm that attaches to the rear caliper should only be finger tight and torqued up last.
As i said, stick a rag/towell in, no more doing in stages etc. some just jam a screwdriver in. Makes life easier. Yes it works. Easy n quick. Give it a go.