Has anyone any ideas on a fix for a dodgy ignition switch.
Posted this on the ORG but had no suggestions and since I've had a price from suzuki, $284 for Ignition switch and keys and about another $250 to reset the tumblers, fit and recode I'm looking for a cheaper fix to DIY.
When I stripped my ignition down to the Barrel I found that the bottom couple of tumblers didn't seat straight so when I tried to turn the key because the pins didn't all push out evenly it wouldn't allow the key to turn.
I found that if I moved the key in the barrel by pulling in a downward direction the pins now aligned and allowed the key to turn.
As its a K7 with Immobiliser I cant just use any old key and barrel so I'm wondering if anyone has a fix for the tumblers.
Ive tried flooding it with the usual, WD40, Inox and even a graphite lock lube, these make the lock smoother but still requires downward force on the key to allow it to turn.
Its not a major I know just more of an annoyance and I do have concern's that one day it'll fuck up completely and I'll be stuck god knows where. I did consider ripping out the problem tumblers but this seems a bit drastic.
Any help appreciated.
Cheers Bov
:cruisin:
I'd have thought any automotive locksmith (or any locksmith for that matter) would be able to look at that for you. The fix would be either cheap, or not possible. Either way they'd be able to tell you.
This might also be of interest, tangentially.
http://www.stromtrooper.com/maintenance-how/66706-sticky-ignition-lock-fix-w-pics.html
Maybe this help to you...
http://v-i-c-i.rajce.idnes.cz/GSX1400_Oprava_a_vycisteni_spinacky/
Fixed! :boogie2:
Removed the lock assembly then removing the 2 Philips screws at the top removed the tumbler assembly. I then gently took a small Dremel type grinder and gently removed a small amount from the protruding tumblers and the edges, A SMALL AMOUNT. Presto put the lock back in, key still does its job and rotates without the knotchyness. All back together and saved about $1000.
:smiley-happy036:
Quote from: VladTepes on Wednesday, 08 February 2017, 03:21 PM
This might also be of interest, tangentially.
http://www.stromtrooper.com/maintenance-how/66706-sticky-ignition-lock-fix-w-pics.html
Very handy tip this Mike
Good tip bov.
You? Gently with a grinder?? Ha, you jest!! :rofl2:
Good work though!!
Took a lot of self control mate, worked a treat tho, well happy that I didn't have to spend $1000 getting new locks fitted. :boogie2:
hay bov
it was therapeutic grinding for you :onya:
Nice find Northern.... useful! :onya:
I'll get shot for stealing this...
The Bandit ignition switch is pretty much the same as the GSX1400 :onya:
http://www.banditforum.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=21097.msg223827;topicseen#new
I did this last year when bike wouldn't start (posted here somewhere). Symptoms as far as I remember were no sparc, no fuel pump. Cleaning the contacts did the trick. Positive side effect was that using key is now a smooth activity.
Ignition switch on my o4 1400 is getting hit and miss. It's probably gummed up .
i take it the chinese ignition switches on ebay are rubbish?
Quote from: bjbiker on Thursday, 02 August 2018, 01:07 AM
Ignition switch on my o4 1400 is getting hit and miss. It's probably gummed up .
i take it the chinese ignition switches on ebay are rubbish?
If you can clean yours up (as per threads above) why buy another?
If you do buy one, just be careful that the plug and wiring is for your model as the switches for the K2-K4 are different to those for the K5 on
Thanks for reply. It's still usable . Will strip it down later in year.
i was just looking for alternative incase .
i just wondered what the chinese ones were like 'has anyone tried them?
Not tried and aftermarket locks in years anyway for a K5 on bike you'll need to have a key that can be matched to your ecu for the imobiliser.
Chinese one well I'd guess most parts are made in China these days you pay your money and take your chance .
I'd always try and stick with standard factory parts if I could as a cheaper part might not last long at all.
:cheers:
Hi all,
Looks like i'm in a similar situation now as well.
My key has always been a bit dodgy in the ignition - You need to push it in, then sort of pull it up while twisting to the right to turn it on. This would normally work every time once I had the 'knack' - But now It has got worse to the point where I'm struggling to get it to lock in and actually turn. I'm counting the days until i'm left stranded at this point.
I've read the various threads on here on how to take it apart and clean etc, but this is my main transport and don't own a garage, so not too keen on the idea of stripping down by the side of the road. It's looking like my only option now is to replace the entire lockset, correct? If so, what are my options? The official Suzuki sets are quite expensive, but those chinese ones on eBay are not reliable (read that in another thread) I've got a K2, so no coding.
Thanks guys.
No coding on a K2, hmmm could you not just replace the ignition assembly with one from another Suzuki of similar parentage? So long as the switch connects the wires, it wouldn't matter what was connecting them.
As long as the plugs match you could buy a cheap ignition lock fit it.
then service your own ignition lock get a new key cut then refit to keep everything as it should be .
Your key is coming up to 17 years old so some maintainance is probably required .
The std key from Suzuki isn't to expensive from saltire Suzuki in Edinburgh as it's not the imobiliser type key .
Tell them we get 15%off from Rochdale Suzuki and I'm sure you'll get it from a good price and they'll either be able to cut the key for you or recommend who they use .
Good luck
:cheers:
After some messing around I bought a gen Suzuki one
Quote from: seth on Thursday, 29 November 2018, 08:09 PM
As long as the plugs match you could buy a cheap ignition lock fit it.
then service your own ignition lock get a new key cut then refit to keep everything as it should be .
Your key is coming up to 17 years old so some maintainance is probably required .
The std key from Suzuki isn't to expensive from saltire Suzuki in Edinburgh as it's not the imobiliser type key .
Tell them we get 15%off from Rochdale Suzuki and I'm sure you'll get it from a good price and they'll either be able to cut the key for you or recommend who they use .
Good luck
:cheers:
Thanks both above for the replies!
Seth, that is a good suggestion, although your post gets me thinking about the condition of my key and if that may alleviate or fix my issue? I'm convinced it's slightly bent, but it's my only key and I don't want to snap it :lol: I may go up to Saltire and ask them if they can get me another key - Do you know how much this should be roughly off the top of your head?
My alternative would be to buy a used lockset from a breaker and get them fitted.
Cheers
Quote from: Simonic on Thursday, 29 November 2018, 08:10 PM
After some messing around I bought a gen Suzuki one
How much did that set you back? 300+?
Alternatively you can get a pre-owned set of a SV650 2001 era.
Ignition switch plugs right in, used the same petrol cap and seat lock.
There are bound to be more suitable candidates .. only I haven't tried them yet
Got to love these parts interchangeability ;) If it looks the same.. it probably is the same
i just needed the switch for a 14 project, set me back a whopping €25 incl shipping
Quote from: seth on Thursday, 29 November 2018, 08:09 PM
Your key is coming up to 17 years old so some maintainance is probably required .
The std key from Suzuki isn't to expensive from saltire Suzuki in Edinburgh as it's not the imobiliser type key .
I have 2 keys. The original is also coming up on 17 years. It's a pain to use it. The new one works very smooth. Probably worth a try getting a new one made. Part number for blank is 37146-33E00 (K2-3). 20£ at Robinsons. 16 £ here:http://www.bikersworldstore.co.uk/suzuki-genuine-part-key-blank-37146-33e00-000.html (http://www.bikersworldstore.co.uk/suzuki-genuine-part-key-blank-37146-33e00-000.html)
I use this to get part numbers and prices .
And to cross reference part numbers with other suzuki's for common shared parts
https://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/shop/online-store/suzuki-parts-finder/gsx/gsx1400/k2-k3-k4-k5-k6-k7-2002-2007.htm
Says your key (blank) is £19.40
Good luck
:cheers:
Mine worked great until I bent the bloody key on the MCR trip this year. Now it's fiddly as buggery, despite having bent the key back as best I could.
Mine's a K7 but I have no idea how the 'chip' in the key (I'm told it has one) works or how it can be replaced ?
Quote from: VladTepes on Tuesday, 04 December 2018, 10:06 AM
Mine worked great until I bent the bloody key on the MCR trip this year. Now it's fiddly as buggery, despite having bent the key back as best I could.
Mine's a K7 but I have no idea how the 'chip' in the key (I'm told it has one) works or how it can be replaced ?
I think in your case you need to find a code which came with the bike. Maybe in owners book - Someone else on here will know, then you'll need to ask Suzuki to program a new key for your bike.
Mine also recently got a little bent due to having used it in the helmet lock. When unlocking it, I had to turn the key at an awkward angle due to the helmet being in the way. Ignition seems to be worse since that time, although I'm also sure I bent mine back very straight.
Luckily I have now learned how to make it turn every time. Put key in and push down, turn to the right while pulling up at the same time, then keep pushing it in and out while keeping pressure turned to the right and it'll slip in. Previously I didn't have to do the in/out motion as well, but now I do.
@VladTepes Your key is more expensive here they are £45
Then you need it cut and coded to match your bike.
Anyplace could recut it.
You'll need to go to a Suzuki dealer for the recoding ,should be straight forward as you have the original keys and should cost 30 minutes of labour.
My k5 r/b only came with 1 key so had to go down the route above to get the 2nd key
:cheers:
Having had my K7 from new, I can advise that you were never advised of any code for the key - as there was no way of programming it, the key itself is coded to the ECU.
2 options exist - buy a new key already coded from Suzuki themselves through your dealer, or get a blank from Suzuki which you can then get cut and coded from a specialist. In both cases they will need an original key to do this and can copy the code from the existing key to the new one. All you are looking at is price, as the Suzuki price for doing what the 3rd part can also do is often more expensive for the same process.
Have you guys not got spare keys then which you can use? Trust me if you only have one key and lose that, then you will need a new ECU with coded key which is not cheap!
I managed to pick up an entire lockset for my K2 on eBay for £120. Come off a 16k mile bike and the parts are immaculate - looks like they've not seen the bad weather. Even the rubber seal in the tank cap looks brand new. Came with 3 keys as well. Result. I'll just continue dealing with the existing set I have on until it fails, then get them switched out eventually.
Cheers all.
Well done Dan, I hope that when the old key fails you are close to home :whistling:
Quote from: mjgt on Thursday, 06 December 2018, 09:48 PM
Well done Dan, I hope that when the old key fails you are close to home :whistling:
True that. Don't fancy pushing this lump!
Will keep my breakdown number on me handy for when it does happen, although I'm hoping it gets a little worse to the point I can say "It's time to change!"
So if I were to have a key that is simply cut from a normal blank, with no chip, then the bike wouldn't start at all?
Yep, correct Mike - unless,
it's a possibility, if you had the bent / worn key handy to the ignition barrel, where the antenna is, the new unchipped key could well work. The chip in the old key being recognised by the aerial & the new key turning the lock. Be worth a crack if the new unchipped key wasn't dear, just to see if it works or not.
Quote from: KiwiCol on Monday, 10 December 2018, 01:46 PM
Yep, correct Mike - unless,
it's a possibility, if you had the bent / worn key handy to the ignition barrel, where the antenna is, the new unchipped key could well work. The chip in the old key being recognised by the aerial & the new key turning the lock. Be worth a crack if the new unchipped key wasn't dear, just to see if it works or not.
I'm not at all sure that that would work. IMO the chipped key must be in the ignition.
Im not sure on 14, but cars i come across thru work, chipped key just needs to be close to reader antenna not inserted in barrel.
Go get a cheap key cut Mike so we can know the answer.
If it had to be real close, you could stick it (bit of epoxy) to the under side of the yolk close to the ignition barrel & it'd be there permanently & nobody would ever know. The 'chip' bit is in the handle part, not the shaft that goes into the barrel., so could cut the extra length off & just glue the square bit underneath.
Hi Guys.
I have just carried out the switch clean, that Northern very kindly put up on the forum a little while ago. Massive success! Thanks Northern.
I was having starting troubles, with the FI light flashing, but would clear if I flicked the kill switch. I had it down as a problem being caused by the META alarm. So a week or so ago I pulled the alarm off. The staring problem remained, but the bike ran better than it has done for months! So result all round. Thanks Northern.
Regards
Chip
Alan, I'm glad, sharing my experience was useful to you. You kindly welcome :hat:
Just giving a quick thanks to
@northern for posting the photos and info on the ignition clean out.
Bike started throwing C42 error codes randomly over the last week to 10 days, followed the photos and gave everything a good clean out... Problem solved. :boogie:
Can anyone please help is the ignition switch on a K3 D. C. or A. C.?
DC. The only AC bit is the stator to reg/reg
Saw this on eBay today if anyone is interested. Could be a pile of dog dirt as it's very cheap to say the least.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ignition-Switch-Lock-Fuel-Gas-Cap-Key-Set-For-Suzuki-SV650-GSX1400-DL650-BE/353224095217?hash=item523dcbf5f1:g:sE0AAOSwWspfUKAs
That looks a good deal Big Phil.
Quote from: Big Phil on Sunday, 04 October 2020, 05:20 AM
Saw this on eBay today if anyone is interested. Could be a pile of dog dirt as it's very cheap to say the least.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ignition-Switch-Lock-Fuel-Gas-Cap-Key-Set-For-Suzuki-SV650-GSX1400-DL650-BE/353224095217?hash=item523dcbf5f1:g:sE0AAOSwWspfUKAs
Be careful. I know a lot of Bandit owners that have tried these cheap, probably Chinesium lock sets and the ignition doesn't work. The Chinese didn't fit the required 100 Ohm resistor and they won't spark without it.
As said, not recommending these, they may be a pile of do do, but if my Ignition switch was done and I was on a budget 🤔
If you can swap the ignition switch then you can strip & clean the original, much safer option than chineseium tatt.
Quote from: Big Phil on Sunday, 04 October 2020, 07:46 AM
As said, not recommending these, they may be a pile of do do, but if my Ignition switch was done and I was on a budget 🤔
I have been on a budget (for my project) and tried those. I was in need of a ignition switch. Whilst everything else fits nicely, the electrical circuit in the ignition switch does not match the OEM circuit. From that complete set... i ended up using the gas cap gasket. The rest i binned and i bought a second hand OEM switch from a SV to get my project started... literaly ;)
I could not get it to work by swapping the pins over in the connector, a resolder and extra wires are needed to get this to work. I opted not to do that for my pile of bits as i didn't want to be chasing my own tail out of cheapness :thumbs_down:
Clearly cheap for a reason then. Another case of if it seems too good to be true 🤔