i saw KiwiFruit way of checking chain align. ive done same forever but with verniers. yours is better, adjustable compas? measuring length of adjuster bolt. my marks, supposedly very wrong, are just 1mm wrong. have tape measured from swing arm pivot, put straight edge on chain. all tasks. my opinion is measuring bolts a great way. any thoughts.
I am really interested in this, I need an idiot proof method as I dread using a measuring tape as I ALWAYS get things wrong.
Measure twice/cut once?
Measure 25 times cut it wrong :whatever:
I use 1 of those laser alinement tool only a few ££ and you can't go wrong get the chain adjusted correctly then check alinement with the laser.
:cheers:
Ive always had success by putting a 2" block of wood under centre stand and take chain guard off and i just look straight up the chain ! .. you can see straight away if its one way or the other then just adjust as needed making sure you spin the wheel after each adjustment ..... works for me :)
WARNING !!!!
almost forgot to say that you must be able to see for above to work !!!
No help for blind riders then.....
:rofl2:
Nope they'd need accurate marks in brail other wise to dangerous.
:whistling:
I always wondered why cat's eyes differ in their distances apart, I assume it's brail for L & R?
I think that you are searching cosmic technology in this issue. Marks on swingarm are enought good for this. Bigger problem are adjusters. They are just pushing back. When you tight wheel than chain tightening change. I know just one solution for this....Gilles TCA B6 But price is bit high.
a rag/towell in between chain and sprocket works well. old trick.
If the bike points roughly the way you tell it to, it's adjusted well enough... :rofl3:
I've always adjusted my chain using the markings on the swing arm and not had any alignment problems.
Next time I do it I'll use the Kiwi Fruit method and see just how accurate/inaccurate they are.
I adjust first by using the markings (will use Kiwifruit's method next time). Then I do the fine adjustment by ear. Brake needs to rub evenly through full turn.
I bought one of those internal caliper thingys on ebay the other day thanks to Mr Fruit..
it reckons I am out a tad..
Simple but effective method I reckon..
Oh I also bought a litre of chain saw oil to try out..
Quote from: Speedy1959 on Monday, 30 July 2018, 07:29 PM
I bought one of those internal caliper thingys on ebay the other day thanks to Mr Fruit..
it reckons I am out a tad..
Simple but effective method I reckon..
Oh I also bought a litre of chain saw oil to try out..
Will keep an eye out for the next horror film then - the Blackpool pier great chainsaw massacre! :rofl2:
Quote from: Speedy1959 on Monday, 30 July 2018, 07:29 PM
Oh I also bought a litre of chain saw oil to try out..
@Speedy1959 Will be interesting to see how it compares to the thick Castrol gear oil you used.
Yep... I'm also intrigued by potentially using chain saw oil... almost at the end of my last can of wurth dry lube!
I "only" bought 1 litre of it.
its not at all expensive compared to bike chain lube..
My take on chain lube is this;
What are you actually trying to lubricate? It's not the links as they are (or should be) sealed with the wee 'x' or 'o' rings. So what are we lubricating then? It's not the surface of the sprockets & centre of the link, they only require very minimal lube as they're designed to run together, what's left? only the 'x' or 'o' rings. So, if it's these that need the lube, I'd say you want a reasonably thick lube, but not too thick as it'll gum up, not too thin as it'll run / fling off.
I'd say, the 80/90 weight oil should be ideal for what we need, chain bar oil is way thinner, pour 1 of each & see what I mean. I'd say the chain bar oil will work ok, but just need to be done more often because it's thinner.
It's good to try different things, else we wouldn't have got to 80/90 gear oil, we'd still be using those super sticky spray cans. For me, I'm staying with the gear oil - (for now :happy1:)
Well I'm pretty sure the owners manual says gear oil, but it's been years since I read it.
I will mix my Castrol 140W gear oil with the chain oil and make my own secret brew..
Hoo ha ha ha haaaa
:stir:
Looked at a couple chain saw oils. They have viscosity of 70-110 and 1/2 the price of gear oil.
The 80W gear oil I have been using has been great (except for the smell) but I try chain saw oil.