My 14 has done over 28k miles even tho I've only had it since June last year with only 7k miles on the clock. Haven't yet synced the throttle valves so wanting some advice.
I've seen the thread with instructions but want to double check, I take it you don't have to take of the tank? With my 1997 bandit 600 I had to take of the tank and hook it up to the carbs with it off the bike to baleen them up wondering if it's the same with checking throttle valves on the 14 or is it doable with the tank on the bike?
Also I've only got a twin carb vacuum gauge as my dad brought it to balance the carbs on his CX500, is it possible to use a twin vacuum gauge to balance the 14's throttle valves If I did 1+2, 3+4 then 2+3?
And lastly what would happen if the throttle valves are out of sync, would it lose performance or would it just run rough? Haven't noticed a change in the smoothness though I'm sure it's not performing like it once did, my mates gladius 650 can keep up.
It's worth a check
1 throttle body will be set and you need to match the other 3 to that 1
Its possible to check with only 2 vacuum gauges but much easier with 4 .
Your 1-2,3-4,then 2-3 should work for checking them .
If you adjust any you'll need to also check the 1-2and3-4 abd 2-3 after again as they can move if you adjust any .
It might also be worth checking the TPS and STPS
Sensors to.
And give the fuel pump and tea-bag filter a good clean.
Good luck
:cheers:
is cleaning the tea-bag a easy job to do or is there a chance I could f*ck something up?
I'd say it's easy, but plenty more info here http://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=430.0
Can't see how you can get to it without taking tank off. Take off the seat, put a blanket there, undo the (5) tank bolts. Standing to the left of the bike lift the tank up, turn it 180 degrees (front of tank faces now to the rear) and rest it where the seat was.
I checked the pins in the grey connector under the LH side panel and the reading from multimeter with throttle closed was 1300 (can't remember exact reading) and then fully open it's at 2700 (again can't remember exact reading). Could this greatly affect performance and/or fuel economy. I am gonna check that it isn't my multimeter giving false readings. Also how do you go about adjusting both the open and closed throttle figures? Surely if you adjust it for the closed the open reading will go down with it?
Ignore the wide open figure it doesn't seem to matter, the bike reads voltage changes not the resistance. A higher reading at idle will mean the bike thinks you have more throttle on than you have so it'll run a bit rich.
Mine was reading 1,000 rather than 1,100 and was rough and jerky at low speed. You'll only tend to notice it at low revs/throttle when the bike is most sensitive to small changes.
Is there any factory values what the readings should be when idling? I know this is not the values you are looking for but the balance between throttle bodies, just wanted to know whether the values should be in certain window on idle? For example 26 cm hg?
Did the balancing yesterday and it smoothed out the ride quite a lot. Also noticed that the clamps from airbox to TB's and from TB's to cyl head were loose on cyl 1. Tightened those as well. Not sure if that was the affect but no more jerkiness when decelerating from 2000 rpm's to idle. Happy bike, happy life. :clapping:
There are no factory values for that. They just need to be evenly balanced.
Quote from: mikesaa309 on Tuesday, 24 July 2018, 10:25 AM
I checked the pins in the grey connector under the LH side panel and the reading from multimeter with throttle closed was 1300 (can't remember exact reading) and then fully open it's at 2700 (again can't remember exact reading). Could this greatly affect performance and/or fuel economy. I am gonna check that it isn't my multimeter giving false readings. Also how do you go about adjusting both the open and closed throttle figures? Surely if you adjust it for the closed the open reading will go down with it?
Quote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 24 July 2018, 08:07 PM
Ignore the wide open figure it doesn't seem to matter, the bike reads voltage changes not the resistance. A higher reading at idle will mean the bike thinks you have more throttle on than you have so it'll run a bit rich.
Mine was reading 1,000 rather than 1,100 and was rough and jerky at low speed. You'll only tend to notice it at low revs/throttle when the bike is most sensitive to small changes.
Measuring from the grey connector doesn't give the correct resistance reading. In this situation the TPS and STPS are in parallel. It makes a huge difference for the wide open settings which folks on here have already noticed. Not so much at the closed setting. If Hooli got his 1000 reading from the grey connector then that is about right for 1100 when measured directly at the TPS. The STPS has a similar reduction.Assuming that the TPS and STPS are working correctly then Hooli is correct in saying that the voltage reading is the best way to go.It takes away the parallel factor. It's just awkward to try and measure it. I was thinking of creating a jig to measure the voltage at the grey plugs. It would make it easier to vary the settings to see how it would affect the running.
Monarch, interesting. will check at tps and grey plug someday soon. my initial, few yrs ago was at tps, recently grey plug, much easier. bike runs fine so not something i really check after initial. first check, way back, 1600 ohms was reading closed, bringing iit back to 1100 sure changed smoothness. never really worried about full open reading. should i?
This post couldn't have come at a better time:
I synced the TB this afternoon because I've had a surging/chugging sensation when decelerating at around 2k rpm for quite.
Checked the TPS, STPS and they were spot on, had new plugs, oil change and the fuel filter cleaned 3,000km ago: still no change: Chugs without fail, especially downhill!
Might have done the TB sync wrong (new vacuum gauges i bought aren't great) and i'll check the TB connections for air leaks but failing this does anyone have any advise?
Another odd symptom that might be related is that when the bike heats up, if you blip the throttle the revs fall until catching for a second around 1500-1800rpm before falling to idle? Could be related? If I dropped the idle speed down to 1000 rpm it helps a bit.
Quote from: Dan B on Thursday, 30 August 2018, 09:11 PM
This post couldn't have come at a better time:
I synced the TB this afternoon because I've had a surging/chugging sensation when decelerating at around 2k rpm for quite.
Checked the TPS, STPS and they were spot on, had new plugs, oil change and the fuel filter cleaned 3,000km ago: still no change: Chugs without fail, especially downhill!
Might have done the TB sync wrong (new vacuum gauges i bought aren't great) and i'll check the TB connections for air leaks but failing this does anyone have any advise?
Another odd symptom that might be related is that when the bike heats up, if you blip the throttle the revs fall until catching for a second around 1500-1800rpm before falling to idle? Could be related? If I dropped the idle speed down to 1000 rpm it helps a bit.
Daft suggestion, checked your chain tension? mine will not ride smoothly if there is too much play in the chain. Probably won't be from what you say when hot but thought I'd mention it.
Appreciate the suggestion hooli: I had my chain replaced recently as the mechanic insisted it was a tight spot in the chain. Changed nothing, doesn't change the chugging when the chain is adjusted correctly but I do agree that it becomes a whole lot smoother when the tension is correct!
The hesitation as the revs drop makes me think STPS adjustment. My reasoning is the secondary throttle actuator moves one way to do the secondary throttles & the other to do the fast idle.
I know you say it's already been done though.