Hi All,
NOTE: My bike has a 2005 Reg plate but thanks to Seth I know its actually a 2004 (K4) model.
I am revving up for doing the fork seals pretty soon, but I would like to get some facts straight first.
I have a some questions..
1. I don't have the fork tool for holding the innards whilst removing the allen bolt from the lower leg. I am going to do the sharp tap / impact gun method to remove. I am assuming that doing it this way means it would be best to shock it loose first before removing the spring and innards? I am thinking this way it would keep some tension on the innards and stop them spinning whilst undoing the allen bolt.
2. Replacing that allen bolt . . . Is it necessary to replace the copper seal or can I use the original (if I heated it up first) ?
I was thinking that when I replace the allen bolt I will start it off then assemble the spring / innards and tighten the top cap.. Again the idea is to add some tension to the innards so that when I tighten the allen bolt there is some tension and the allen bolt wont spin the innards whilst I torque it down..
Do these points make sense?
Lastly do you advise I use the Loctite removable thread-lock on those pesky allen bolts ?
Thanks in advance..
1. The broom stick cut to the tip also works great to stop spinning inner tube :grin:
2. No, usually I use same copper seal.
3. No thread lock needed
BR Vici
Thank you very much V_i_c_i
Tried a seal mate and YES they do work.. Great video below by an Ozzy guy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NR8GYeVHc0Q
But I want to replace the guides now I have bought them..
Plus I noticed that the dust seals are actually cracked and perished on the lips..
I have the fork tool but elected to undo the Allen bolt without it. Kept the fork leg (K2) assembled, preload set to max. Layed it on the ground, put a foot where the caliper mounting is (I don't have a vise) and unscrewed the sucker. Was easy going!
I did replace the copper seal as it was in the kit (All Balls) I got. I did use the fork tool (DIY) to put it back together, but I think that it would be just as possible to temporarily assemble the leg (without the oil) and tighten the Allen bolt to the prescribed torque as I needed more force to undo the bolt than to torque it up. Using the tool just saved me some time.
I don't think Loctite is needed. There was none on the bolts I took out and there was no leak. Since I had a some laying around I gave a couple drops on the bolts.
Someone had done the one leg before using brute force to undo the dust cap :thumbs_down: Had to put a file and sandpaper to the inner edge of the lower tube. That idiot also marred the oil seal retainer ring in several places. Really can't figure out why he did that :whatever: Filed/papered that too. Of cause, the dust cap was damaged too. That leg had to have new bushings. The other leg's bushings (guides), still having an original seal) was fine after 33k miles.
I like the All Balls dust caps better than the original as they have a spring reinforced upper lip. Should keep the crap out better. The originals do look better though.
Hi Speedy
Ive got the tool here if you need it but I tend to do what your suggesting - I loosen the top nut off and then using my torque gun buzz the Allen bolt out over on old celebrations tub to catch all the nasty grey oil - loosen the top nut and then place all the bats on an old towel lining them up as they come out that way no forgetfulness
No use of thread lock necessary and I re anneal the washer
I re did the bushes on mine as they were that worn they kept causing the seals to go as the legs vibrated anything over a ton
From last year I have very bad experience with various seals (OEM, NOK, NAK, TOURATECH).
From that time I use just SKF Kitg-46k (Kanerdog 1x1 idea use that seals, because he had this problem too). No problems with seals from that time.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=skf+kitg+46k&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=skf+kit+g+46+&LH_TitleDesc=0
BR Vici
Thank you all very much for your input.
its a job I have never done before so I want to take extra care that I get the procedure right.
Your help is very much appreciated.
S.
A couple more tips, Simon.
Put one of the little plastic bags that the seals come in and put it over the end of the stanchion before you slip the seal and dust cap on. Helps to protect the lips from the sharp edges of the stanchion end.
Turn the compression damping force adjuster to it's weakest setting before filling in the oil. That way it is easier to move the inner rod while bleeding the air out. Also, I use dental floss tied beneath the screw on the inner rod. Makes the job of pulling the inner rod up when bleeding (without a "special" tool) easy.
You don't need to take the protectors off (as the manual says). They are not in the way at all.
Quote from: V_i_c_i on Friday, 13 July 2018, 07:40 PM
From last year I have very bad experience with various seals (OEM, NOK, NAK, TOURATECH).
From that time I use just SKF Kitg-46k (Kanerdog 1x1 idea use that seals, because he had this problem too). No problems with seals from that time.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=skf+kitg+46k&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=skf+kit+g+46+&LH_TitleDesc=0
BR Vici
Thanks for the info Vici. What were the problems with the seals?
Leaking issue...probably some bad series. But same problem with different brands? But from that time I use just SKF seals above. Much better. Mainly much better dust seal. But ugly green colour. :doh:
Thats brilliant Andre....
Great idea using the dental floss.
Thanks again
Quote from: V_i_c_i on Friday, 13 July 2018, 11:13 PM
Leaking issue...probably some bad series. But from that time O use just SKF above. Much better. Mainly much better dust seal. But ugly green colour. :doh:
Thanks Vici! I just can't stomach the green :imrgreen: Ok, ugly green fork seals from SKF and black dust seals from someone else. But all those brands with leak issues??? Will see how my All Balls hold up.
Quote from: Andre on Friday, 13 July 2018, 11:26 PM
Quote from: V_i_c_i on Friday, 13 July 2018, 11:13 PM
Leaking issue...probably some bad series. But from that time O use just SKF above. Much better. Mainly much better dust seal. But ugly green colour. :doh:
Thanks Vici! I just can't stomach the green :imrgreen: Ok, ugly green fork seals from SKF and black dust seals from someone else. But all those brands with leak issues??? Will see how my All Balls hold up.
My theory is that all that brands manufacture same chainese boy. :happy1:
Hi all,
Well I removed the forks and the fork springs / washers and spacers and most of the internals including the very thin hollow tube....
Seth you were correct..Mine is 100% a K4 model fork even though my reg is March 2005 !
The forks are all in bits BUT the recessed allen bolt just spins round and round and turns the remaining rod and innards with it!
I know some of you reckon you can use a broom handle but how on earth do you fit a broom handle into the fork tube when there is a thin rod in there..
Even if the rod wasnt in there I cant see how a broom handle would magically hold the innards firm so the allen bolt could be undone !
I am not keen to take the forks to a mechanic in the state they are now in because they usually get a crappy on with DIYers having a go and not succeeding !!
Info on fork tool you need buddy
http://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=378.msg10270#msg10270
That will stop it spinning when you try to undo the socketheaded bolt from the fork lowers .
:cheers:
Quote from: Speedy1959 on Monday, 16 July 2018, 04:13 AM
Hi all,
Well I removed the forks and the fork springs / washers and spacers and most of the internals including the very thin hollow tube....
Seth you were correct..Mine is 100% a K4 model fork even though my reg is March 2005 !
The forks are all in bits BUT the recessed allen bolt just spins round and round and turns the remaining rod and innards with it!
I know some of you reckon you can use a broom handle but how on earth do you fit a broom handle into the fork tube when there is a thin rod in there..
Even if the rod wasnt in there I cant see how a broom handle would magically hold the innards firm so the allen bolt could be undone !
I am not keen to take the forks to a mechanic in the state they are now in because they usually get a crappy on with DIYers having a go and not succeeding !!
Key is cut broom handle. But you have to cut it obliquely. Do long cut, at least 10cm. Then put cuted broom handle between tube and inner rod and still pushing on when loosing the screw. It works. Sorry for my english, can´t explain better.
Fork tool is easily made. The 2-nose version is the simplest to make. Just takes the pipe and a saw. Didn't even need to drill a hole to put a handle in it; held it with a pair of pliers.
You might first try to temporarily put the legs together and proceed as I suggested before:
QuoteI have the fork tool but elected to undo the Allen bolt without it. Kept the fork leg (K2) assembled, preload set to max. Layed it on the ground, put a foot where the caliper mounting is (I don't have a vise) and unscrewed the sucker. Was easy going!
Could do the same to torque it up again later.
The broomhandle thing makes sense too. I would just be wary of splinters left in the leg if you use it to torque the thing later.