GSX1400 Owners .org

NOTE: This thread is also available to download as a PDF file from the Downloads (General) Section

Probably the first thing to understand is what the PAIRS system is, what it does and what effect it will have on your GSX1400 if you remove it.
PAIRS stands for Pulsed Secondary Air Injection System and is Suzuki’s answer to try to beat emission laws without redeveloping their engines. What it does is let air into the exhaust on the overrun to “cleanâ€� up the emissions coming past the exhaust valve. Some of you will notice popping or slight backfires through your exhaust on the overrun â€" this is the PAIRS system kicking in.

Removing it will have no noticeable effect on either power or performance, however it will make your machine run a lot smoother with it disconnected so is a worthwhile mod (you will however lose the “popping� on the overrun.

There are various options for either removing or disabling PAIRS â€" the instructions below show you how to fully remove the system, however there are other options as follows:

1.    Clamp the PAIRS hose shut between the engine cover and the air box. Not very cosmetic, but if you want to see what effect removing PAIRS will have, then this is the easiest mod and takes seconds (it’s no different to what they do when your bike goes on a dyno)

2.    Seal the pipe(s) leading to the PAIRS covers internally. There are a couple of methods of doing this
a.    Remove the air pipe running to the PAIRS cover on the engine, insert a small ball bearing or marble of an appropriate size and refit the air pipe
b.    Remove the air pipe running to the PAIRS cover, and screw an allen screw of the appropriate size into the end of the PAIRS cover, then refit the air pipe

(See HERE (https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=7482.msg99514#msg99514) for what this looks like)

However if you want to fully remove the PAIRS system, then read on!

I'll assume you've already removed the tank so the top of the engine is exposed â€" and that we are good to start.

 
1.    First job is undo both PAIRS covers on the top of the engine

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-070217233023-219439.jpeg)

2.    If you lift the covers away you will expose the reed valves.

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-070217233024-219270.jpeg)

3.    And if you lift the reeds out â€" here’s what the other side looks like

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-070217233032-221972.jpeg)

4.    Next job is to disconnect the air hoses off the covers. Before we continue, there are a couple of options here depending on whether you may have purchased a kit (or not) and/or how good you might be at metalwork.

If you have purchased a kit, then typically the kit will come with a replacement cover (it may also come with a blanking plate to replace the reed valve, depending on the kit), so you can discard the PAIRS covers you remove (as you will be fitting the ones from the kit.

But first we need to address the reed valve we have just removed â€" again some options

a.    Put it back in place and leave it there. However do be aware that if left in the reeds still try to move and potentially could break off and end up in the valves â€" whilst no-one has ever reported this happening it is still a possibility. Those who have left them in report that they may also make a noise.
b.    Make a Blanking Plate (recommended option).  If one came with your kit, take the rubber seal carefully off the OEM reed and refit it to the blanking plate supplied with the kit, then fit it back into the reed compartment in the rocker cover. If one did not come with the kit, remove the rubber seal, and make a blanking plate in metal (preferably steel) to the same size and thickness of the reed plate you just removed (2mm sheet works well),  fit the rubber seal to the blanking plate you made and fit to the reed compartment

So having fitted either the original reed assembly back in to the compartment or a blanking plate, if you have purchased a kit fit the PAIRS cover from that kit to seal the reed compartment and continue at point #6. If you do not have a replacement cover, then read on.

5.    We need to “blankâ€� the inlet in the OEM covers. Find a suitable allen screw and screw it into the end where the PAIRS tube was previous fitted. Now refit the covers with the inlet (that you have just blanked off with the allen screw) facing towards the back of the engine.

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-070217233010-2111023.jpeg)

6.    We have now completed sealing off the reed assembly in the engine. Next step is to disconnect the hose leading to the air box (where the yellow dot is)

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-070217233010-211283.jpeg)

7.    And then blank off the pipe in the air box with an appropriately size bolt

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-070217233012-213768.jpeg)

8.    Now we need to seal off the air tube running to the injectors. Locate the rubber hose in the middle of this picture (the grey one â€" it’s on the third throttle body to the injectors right) and disconnect it (It may be a little difficult to pull off, as over time it can “stickâ€� to the metal.

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-070217233013-213736.jpeg)

9.    And now seal it off using an appropriate sized bolt (it’s best to cut a small length off the pipe just removed to fit an appropriate bolt â€" leave enough length so you can bend the pipe in half once disconnected such that you can seal it in the bent position with a zip tie (see picture). Whilst removing the pipe may seem a bit daft just to reconnect it, it’s easier to seal the pipe this way rather than doing it “in situâ€�

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-070217233018-2151705.jpeg)

10.    All that remains is to remove the PAIRS system itself. Undo the two bolts holding the PAIRS valve

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-070217233018-2151382.jpeg)

11.    And drag all this gubbins out.

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-070217233021-2171623.jpeg)

12.    That’s it! Refit the tank, and take her for a spin!

So in summary â€" this is what you have just done

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/9-070217233021-217695.jpeg)

Fantastic thread, really nicely done.

Cheers buddy appreciated

http://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/suzuki-gsxr1300-ape-billet-pair-valve-covers/945/

hopefully this link works
these pairs valve removal kits are for a hyabusa but they fit the gsx1400

:cheers:

Quote from: seth on Wednesday, 08 February  2017, 11:37 PM
http://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/suzuki-gsxr1300-ape-billet-pair-valve-covers/945/

hopefully this link works
these pairs valve removal kits are for a hayabusa but they fit the gsx1400

:cheers:

They are really nice and are what I had fitted to my 14 - although they are only PAIRS covers (with screws), you still need to make your own blanking plates and find screws for blanking off the air box and injector rail. But look very good fitted I have to say!

your right dave .
nice piece of kit

out of interest when i fitted my pairs blanking plates i didnt use the spacer that came with it .
instead i removed the read valves from the holders then refitted the holders below the blanking plates.
just a light smear of sealer on it and was a much better fit and seal that way .

seth

A.P.E gen 2 hayabusa billet block off plates, anodised blue, a smear of Suzuki bond and sorted, plug the airbox and junk the rest.

Hey Seth and Kja

I've just taken my pairs system off the bike today, and removed the reads and refitted the read plates , and a light bit of sealant . I got the plates from fleabay that was on this site , all done and running nice and smooth   Cool 😎  :clapping:  :onya: so I am in the pairless group lol 😂

glad it helped
i think thats the easiest way to fit them

:cheers:

After reading gsxbarmeys excerlent right up am thinking of blocking of the pairs system (block pipes of ) .am i right to think this will carm down the slight poping etc that i seem to get on over run at about 2000 ish revs that sort of makes it a bit lumpy ?

I tryed this mod and to be honest i realy did not notice much diffrence so ive returned my k7 to standard. i blocked the pipes up air tight whent for a blast but didont realy notice any difrence

Should have made delivery smoother Mark - everyone else that has done this mod has reckoned it worthwhile. Still there has to be a first I guess!

Yer gsxbarmey i tryed it rode for a hour all speeds in start stop traffic let it tick over no diffrence noticed by me il save me cash was testing before i bought the kit

if anyone interested - find on ebay. Price seems OK:
https://goo.gl/SSDRMr

That's the kit I used and recommended elsewhere in the forum. I liked the fact it came with the caps to blank off the airbox and vacuum nipple, although these can be sourced separately for other kits. I definitely noticed a difference after fitting too. Popping was significantly reduced too, though I'm pleased to say not completely eliminated.

My system of removing PAIRS ...

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg21.rajce.idnes.cz%2Fd2103%2F10%2F10716%2F10716439_d603c7be79a3d32743245234f615ffc8%2Fimages%2FIMG_7399.jpg%3Fver%3D0&hash=87cc9bed7d7accf195c8bf61073327e40cc24afe)

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg21.rajce.idnes.cz%2Fd2103%2F10%2F10716%2F10716439_d603c7be79a3d32743245234f615ffc8%2Fimages%2FIMG_7358.jpg%3Fver%3D0&hash=78880a805833cef824a4d9ea1a5342d30a78b382)

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg21.rajce.idnes.cz%2Fd2103%2F10%2F10716%2F10716439_d603c7be79a3d32743245234f615ffc8%2Fimages%2FIMG_7400.jpg%3Fver%3D0&hash=47ab4ed1fc64fb55045cbaa519786a0ed67007c4)

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg21.rajce.idnes.cz%2Fd2103%2F10%2F10716%2F10716439_d603c7be79a3d32743245234f615ffc8%2Fimages%2FIMG_7363.jpg%3Fver%3D0&hash=c12c2b9f8dd95977f7c260d9aef0f08a652a0687)

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg21.rajce.idnes.cz%2Fd2103%2F10%2F10716%2F10716439_d603c7be79a3d32743245234f615ffc8%2Fimages%2FIMG_7402.jpg%3Fver%3D0&hash=f2913656bc1e0ccac44fd95e60ce162c876e51d4)

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg21.rajce.idnes.cz%2Fd2103%2F10%2F10716%2F10716439_d603c7be79a3d32743245234f615ffc8%2Fimages%2FIMG_7447.jpg%3Fver%3D0&hash=b8c49d6eccef0623f58e8fcba9af928305898dc1)

After running with the PAIRS blocked off for a while I've taken the plunge and ordered this blanking set.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/253623301434?ViewItem=&item=253623301434
I'll report back when fitted

Sane kit I fitted to our 3 bikes I've also used the same kit on other 14's it's a good quality kit.
:onya:

Bought the Smartmoto Pairs delete kit. Fitted it yesterday.

How does the bike feel with it fitted .
It should be slightly smoother
:cheers:

Quote from: seth on Friday, 05 October  2018, 09:34 PM
How does the bike feel with it fitted .
It should be slightly smoother
:cheers:

I had a bit of a problem with the bike popping thru the nearside exhaust on tickover , I nipped the pairs system off following some advice on here and it cured the problem. The tickover is much better now. The bike does have some other running  issues s i'm not seeing the full benefit as yet.
The kit supplied is excellent tho and it was with me in three days

Thinking about removing the pairs, just a quick question first. Having the bike already had a custom dyno will this affect that at all or should it be all good to remove?

The pair's system will have been cut off while the bike was dyno'd so removing it will not affect anything.
:cheers:

 :cheers:

Ordered, next job on the list :boogie2:

Superb thread. And beautifully documented. Cheers!   :onya:

Quote from: Latetsorpa on Wednesday, 27 February  2019, 07:33 AM
Superb thread. And beautifully documented. Cheers!   :onya:

Thank you.

BR Vici

(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi68.tinypic.com%2Fa2evb8.jpg&hash=a4639297e022adc5e11933c673ae9819757e962f)

Well taken care of  finger nails mate  :onya:

Do anyone have a dimensions of plate which I have to do to replace the reed valves ? I bought a kit which is upper in post but it doesn't have a accesory plate - only the top.
I want to remove this and fit it quickly so I will do the plates earlier. Steel plates - 2mm, but height, width and radius?
I will be thankfull for infos  :cool: :cool: :cool:

I never used the smaller internal plates
I removed the read valves from the holder and the refitted the holder with mounting compound then fitted the top plate all be good since
:cheers:

Remove valves - unscrew a little bolt from the internal plate which i see on first post ?
Probably something is not ok with me but I can't imagine this without internal plate... - in this case seal will be in the lower place in head or not ?  :confused1:

Yes remove the small screws to remove the read valves  then refit Just like in these pics(these still have read valves attached) then refit with the shaped plate on top .
Takes a few mins job done.
The reason to remove the read valves is that if nothing is moving between them the vacuum from the exhaust can snap them off .
All 3 of our gsx1400 run this kits with the same set up .
:cheers:

Ok now it's clear  :imrgreen: I will remove the bolt with valve and plate will come in standard place with top plate from smart moto on it  :clapping:
Thanks Seth  :cheers:

Sorry I wasn't more clear but you've got it now .
Good luck
:cheers:

seth, last quick question: Did You use a loctite on the blanking plates ?

I just used some instant gasket just a very light amount to seal the plate to the read valve mounting block.
Loctite would do just fine.
:cheers:

Had my PAIRS blocked for 6 or 7 years. Never removed plates etc, just blocked off air intake. Apart from cosmetics, any reason i cant just leave it like that, disabled but bits still in head. Never really thought about b4, doesnt worry me but just wondered why everyone fits modded plates.

I fitted the kit as it just looks neater.
I removed the read valves as someone on the original org had them break off damaging his cylinderhead so 8 removed ours as a precaution (it can't damage anything if it's not fitted)
:cheers:

yea seth i did the same and fitted just the plates and did the gasket bit just to be safe .. but other than that all good and stopped the back popping  :onya:

Latest PAIRS removal kit on eBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-Valve-Removal-kit-with-SMOG-block-off-plates-Suzuki-GSX-1400-all-models/253623301434?hash=item3b0d20753a:g:J-QAAOSwMnde2MEC

Prize is terrible for me. I can share DWG plans for blanking plates. May be are there in download section. Send it to laser cutting company and prize there for 5mm dural cutted will be about 8 eur....

(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2103/10/10716/10716439_d603c7be79a3d32743245234f615ffc8/images/IMG_7321.jpg?ver=1)

(https://img21.rajce.idnes.cz/d2103/10/10716/10716439_d603c7be79a3d32743245234f615ffc8/images/IMG_7447.jpg?ver=0)

Have never worried about pairs much, just blocked off hose. Can i take reeds out and refit standard covers?

This mod seems to be within my skill level but I'm conflicted; I like the popping but would love to feel some of that increased smoothness. Is the smoothness really that noticeable? I'd be willing to lose the popping which has smile value (to me) but that extra smoothness sure sounds enticing. Given these bikes have truckloads of power anyway there's no need for more but I'm intrigued by refinements like this.

I' ve not noticed any extra smoothness as a feeling itself, the smoothness is in the sound of the engine not backfiring etc.

Quote from: SA14 on Monday, 21 September  2020, 10:00 PM
This mod seems to be within my skill level but I'm conflicted; I like the popping but would love to feel some of that increased smoothness. Is the smoothness really that noticeable? I'd be willing to lose the popping which has smile value (to me) but that extra smoothness sure sounds enticing. Given these bikes have truckloads of power anyway there's no need for more but I'm intrigued by refinements like this.

I like tjhe popping so I sold my pairs removal kit -mine runs smooth   :)

Quote from: Notty on Tuesday, 22 September  2020, 01:20 AM

Quote from: SA14 on Monday, 21 September  2020, 10:00 PM
This mod seems to be within my skill level but I'm conflicted; I like the popping but would love to feel some of that increased smoothness. Is the smoothness really that noticeable? I'd be willing to lose the popping which has smile value (to me) but that extra smoothness sure sounds enticing. Given these bikes have truckloads of power anyway there's no need for more but I'm intrigued by refinements like this.

I like the popping so I sold my pairs removal kit -mine runs smooth   :)

I got some popping! Admittedly not so much but last week I did the ball bearing mod and immediately felt the extra smoothness. It now feels like a manually shifted automatic bike and has added a new level of enjoyment but I (like you) really like the pop. But yesterday I was accelerating then letting off in 2nd gear and got some sweet crackling! I wasn't being a yahoo (much - your honour) but the situation lent itself to a handful of 2nd gear then had to back off because the world was approaching too rapidly and I heard some cool pops so even though it's not as much (I used to get it on deceleration in most gears) it'll still happen.

Stock exhaust on a 2008 with Scorpion muffler.

Is there a catalyst in the standard cans? And if there is, is this mod will hurt the catalyst?

Quote from: Persizi on Monday, 05 July  2021, 07:21 AM
Is there a catalyst in the standard cans? And if there is, is this mod will hurt the catalyst?

If you have the standard Yoshi exhaust on a K5/6/7 then arguably there is a cat in the exhaust itself. Otherwise no, there isn't

In any case this mod will not "hurt" the catalytic converter.

Thanks! The cans are 42F0, so I guess there is no cat.

Barmy, out of interest, where is a cat in later exhausts? None of my cans/ link pipes have one. Yonks ago had collector off, ground out every obstruction, no cat there. Just as aside, since fitting Yoshi Tri Oval, much quieter than previous, thats with end baffle out. Much more power and 20 ks more before first fuel bar disappears. Maybe just due to cooler weather but i dont really think so.

I think there is a cat in 42F2 (K4- onwards) but I'm not sure. SUZUKI GSX1400 - EXHAUST SYSTEM K2 K3 K4 (https://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/shop/online-store/suzuki-parts-finder/gsx/gsx1400/k2-k3-k4-k5-k6-k7-2002-2007.htm#!gsx1400exhaustk2k4)

Also according to this channel, removing the PAIR will cause faster blockage on the cat - 7:30 .

Quote from: grog on Monday, 05 July  2021, 06:13 PM
Barmy, out of interest, where is a cat in later exhausts? None of my cans/ link pipes have one. Yonks ago had collector off, ground out every obstruction, no cat there. Just as aside, since fitting Yoshi Tri Oval, much quieter than previous, thats with end baffle out. Much more power and 20 ks more before first fuel bar disappears. Maybe just due to cooler weather but i dont really think so.

Don't know @grog - I'm only going by what was on the side of the (optional) Yoshi dual oval can that was a dealer fit (same as the mainstand) as new in the UK - sure it had some reference to catalic

I just did both on the weekend ( PAIRS and TRE ) and did notice a Better throttle response and much smoother engine overall, Well worth the mod IMO and was easy to do,......

Quote from: Persizi on Monday, 05 July  2021, 06:53 PM
I think there is a cat in 42F2 (K4- onwards) but I'm not sure. SUZUKI GSX1400 - EXHAUST SYSTEM K2 K3 K4 (https://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/shop/online-store/suzuki-parts-finder/gsx/gsx1400/k2-k3-k4-k5-k6-k7-2002-2007.htm#!gsx1400exhaustk2k4)

Also according to this channel, removing the PAIR will cause faster blockage on the cat - 7:30 .

That's quite a good explanation.

He pointed out what a lot of folk miss in that any A/F readers, be it a sniffer on the dyno or other will get a false reading with PAIR in place. I've seen heaps of bikes dyno'd and the owners given mixture figures without blocking it.

Mine was dyno'd and mapped after it was blanked off.

Interesting about how it effects the Cat, but personally I'd be surprised if a lot of owners who are going to the trouble of removing it or blanking it off still have a Cat in place. 

I don't touch PAIRS with just cans but I do with full systems. The tiny gains in weight loss and having all the crap out of the way when working on the bike are just a bonus.

As our bikes don't have cats that shouldn't be an issue.

Every dyno I've seen done on a 14 or similar they put a clamp on the pipe to the PAIRS valve which disables the system so it won't affect the readings.

I haven't checked that out yet Is that the case on all the GSX1400's K2-K7 Tony Nitrous no Cats..
I remember you from the B-King.org forums mate I think at the time you were doing a lot of tuning with Woolich-racing for drag racing,.

None of the years of the gsx1400 have a cat in the exhaust system .
The duel outlet can says it's got a cat or is cat comparable but they are not standard from the factory they were added by dealers after manufacturing.
:cheers:

Mine had a cat, mongrel thing from over the road. It slept on my tank, black hair everywhere, Easiest cat ive ever removed.

What does this mean catalyzed ?

I've no idea but I can only think as it's not the exhaust that came from the factory Suzuki UK and others got these from yoshi and had the link pipes made up to suit the can must fit other bikes that have a cat .
The emissions are supposedly reduced by the pairs system .

Never done the PAIRS mod. Asked the guy at my work to cnc the covers; drawing from the downloads section. Read all of this thread and others covering the system. Just for tries, can I just tape the hose port from inside the air box ? I´ll be using good industrial metallic tape.

You'd be better off just folding the hose back on itself and zip tying it off. I removed the actual reed valve from underside the cover plate in case it breaks and falls off into the valve train. Never bothered with cnc'd cover plates.

OK, thanks for the reply. Even for a blast, I´ll remove the valves, you never know, shit happens !

just unplug the vacuum hose from no3 throttle body & plug it so that cylinder doesn't run lean. Without the vacuum the PAIRS will never function so you can feel the difference.

Hooli, from memory, valve is held closed with vacuum, intake from air box is what needs blocking.

I just screwed a bolt into the hole in the airbox think a m6 (May have been a different size but it was very slightly larger than the hole) cut it's own thread as I put it and sealed it perfectly 

I've never seen any good reason why you can't just blank it off with it still in place,  that seems fine and a temporary version should always be done on the dyno if you're looking at the A/F sniffer reading. The Busa guys often just put a marble in the pipe.

Personally I do remove them as I just prefer not having the crap left in there (although the one on my 14 was already done before the last owners PC111 Dyno mapping)


(https://i.ibb.co/LxdF8rY/1-AAD69-D5-F924-41-D2-885-D-137939-FB57-B1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c6hB1wk)
(https://poetandpoem.com/Benjamin-Jonson/Have-You-Seen-But-A-Bright-Lily-Grow)

Quote from: grog on Friday, 03 June  2022, 08:31 AM
Hooli, from memory, valve is held closed with vacuum, intake from air box is what needs blocking.

I've not checked how it works so you might well be right. I'd assumed it worked the same as EGR, but it's a guess really.

Hey all, grabbed a pairs delete kit from a guy in northern NSW (link below), looking for the smoother running mentioned in this and other posts.

Gonna fit it using the great instructions at the start of this post provided by GSXBARMY, thanks mate!

My question is, are there any other fueling or tuning requirements involved, or is it just a matter of deleting the pairs system and off you go?

Interested in any input or experience anyone may have on this.
 
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/688791114077156

Cheers Grae

Rip it all out, block the necessary bits & you're good to go.

watgra, good link you sent. Shamed me into buying same from same seller. Ive had PAIRS  hoses blocked off 13 yrs, about time i removed it all.  :laugh:

Having never had PAIRS covers off,is any sealant required on rubber seals, are new rubber seals available? Thanks gentlemen.

Nope, there's a nice grooved rubber seal that seals both the cover and holds the reed valves in place. Pretty sure if you remove the reed valves, the rubber seal still functions as a gasket.

Alloy cover plates & stainless plates to replace reeds in kit.

I removed the reeds but left the mounting plate in place with rubber seal and added some sealer just in case before fitting the cover plate.

The reed valves should also be removed as they can vibrate and snap off (dropping into the valves) I used the original mounting block and seal with the plate on top works spot on .
Also still have a couple of sets of plates if anyone wants £15 a set .