Hi, anyone had difficulty turning the ignition key from lock position to park ? The other day mine didn't go to the park position, despite me never using that position. Just don't want the ignition with future problems. Changed to the spare key; its easier now but not as it was when the bike was newer. And I always spray in WD40 ! So its not lack of lubrication.
check the keys for any bends or twists as i had an issue with mine not locking and it was the key !..... it had a tiny bend ... nothing realy but it realy upset the igntion switch so i straighten it very gently ( i only have one key :bugga:) and that sorted it .
The keys are realy big on the 14 and are easy to bend without releasing it so have to be careful with them ......Damn i must get a spare !!!!
WD40 is not the best stuff you can use inside the ignition - contact cleaner would be a better bet for cleaning the tumblers etc inside the lock.
Just also check that the top hasn't turned slightly - you are aware that you can "close" the ignition key lock - just put the tip of your key in the lock and turn it and it closes the cover over the barrel to stop dirt getting in. If that is slightly offset at times it can cause a bit of hassle getting to "park"
Maybe time to open it up. Might find some crud and/or wear there. Also squirting WD40 (or anything else for that matter) into the keyhole doesn't get to the lock mechanism in the lower part (which needs grease, not liquid lube).
I had to open mine up due to no-start problem (contact areas needed cleaning). As a benefit, lock feels very smooth now.
I said WD40 but I've also used contact cleaner in the past. Had a look at the keys and compared both, the "old" one is a bit more rounded off at the top. I´ll keep the using the new one. Will take care regarding the barrel not being open. Is it easy to open up ? Please bear that I work with tools for my job. So easy/ hard always depends on the person.
I found it fairly easy. To get you started look at this post (pics in post):
Quote from: northern on Sunday, 06 May 2018, 08:56 PM
I will not start a new tread, but want to share HOW-TO clean contacts inside Suzuki OEM ignition lock.
Taking it of is relatively easy: headlight off, green connector inside headlight off, using secure torx size 40 (with hole in the center) undo 2 bolts holding ignition lock in place. Bolts have tread-lock, but not very strong one.
Having ignition lock in your hands, clean it first from outside - its located in a place, where usually you do not get when you are washing your bike.
On the bottom of the lock case, there is 2 bolts, without any screwdriver groove. Need to undo them.
To make it easier, I take 2 wood planks and screw ignition lock to them as shown on a picture. This allow me to mark center of the bolt heads, and then drill heads off using 4.5mm drill bit (bolts themselves are M4).
Everything else was quite simple: clean with brake-cleaner, dry with compressed air, lubricate stearing lock part, cleaning contacts with dermmel tool relatively soft brush.
Mounting it back together, I used a bit of thread-lock on a new M4 bolts.
Done! :salute:
P.S. original idea was not mine - find it on youtube.
And follow the link in this post:
Quote from: froudy on Tuesday, 08 May 2018, 05:49 AM
I'll get shot for stealing this...
The Bandit ignition switch is pretty much the same as the GSX1400 :onya:
http://www.banditforum.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=21097.msg223827;topicseen#new
One key I have has issues from being bent in the helmet lock, it may be the key.
OK, thanks guys, Very good help. I´ll lubricate it in a different way.
Strip and clean the barrel and then lubricate using locksmiths graphite powder...NOT WD40 etc :onya:
Yep, understood. WD will clean and only temporary lube.
above post from bandit forum nails it. steel key with brass wafers. guess what will wear first. wafers need to be ground gently to make flush. problem solved. best lube is houdini. https://mylockstore.com/products/houdini-lock-lubricant
Quote from: grog on Tuesday, 12 June 2018, 07:25 PM
above post from bandit forum nails it. steel key with brass wafers. guess what will wear first. wafers need to be ground gently to make flush. problem solved. best lube is houdini. https://mylockstore.com/products/houdini-lock-lubricant
Doubt I´ll get it here. PTFE based or graphite based, dry lube, which do you recommend ? Working in the airline industry I can a whole lot of stuff, but not this particular.
Done. Stripped it to the last part, cleaned everything and lubed all. Once you open one of these for the first time you see why WD40 or similar isn´t recommended. Had to go to a locksmith to repair the barrel anyway, had a slight offset and only they can do it. Didn´t want to change barrels or keys. I didn´t have time for a step by step, with photos, guide but can give some advice if anyone wants to open the ignition. Pretty simple.
The extra complication is on k5 and later bikes have an imobiliser chip in the key as well so needs to be coded to the bikes ecu or bike won't work.
The barrels are the same so your advice will work on any year
:onya:
Have you considered locksmith (https://www.mylocksmithpro.com/) to sort the issue with the ignition key?
Hello
@NathanBlackburn , it's prefered for you to Introduce yourself here, https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=995.0 before posting replies or asking questions, especially as this particular thread is 2½ years old and has been resolved by now.