I have a pair of both these models all stripped down at the moment, if anyone wants any pictures or measurements etc of the different types, (as I have seen queries about the differences), let me know :onya:
Take some pictures and post them up I'm sure admin can make it a top tip to show the differences.
I.e.
Stantion tubes (holes postions)
Cartridges
Lower plastic bumpstop
Spring lengths
And anything else you can see especially if you can do a side by side comparison.
:onya:
All adds to the great info already on this forum! :onya:
Okay will do, I am waiting for the K5 stantions to come back from Philpots, when I get them back I will lay the different models out side by side :onya:
I think the actual caps are different also
Indeed a side by side comparison will be very helpful.
Okay here is a side by side, the K2 is on the left, obvious difference is the metal spacer, the cartridge, the bottom plastic insert, the springs for K2 are slightly shorter and a different shape, the rebound adjuster on the K5 can be unscrewed from the slider, the top unit on the K2 can just be unscrewed from each other, on the K5 onwards there is a retaining clip.
Obviously I have not shown the seals, dust seals or spring clip as mine were all shot :cry2: but you can see where these locate in the parts manual :onya:
Hope this helps, when I get the stantions back, I'll update with a picture showing their differences
Thats quite a diferance in the two it shows suzuki were trying hard to improve the front end of the 14 in its last years of production .... thanks for the pics :onya:
Now stickied :onya:
Quote from: shanered6 on Saturday, 12 May 2018, 06:42 PM
Thats quite a diferance in the two it shows suzuki were trying hard to improve the front end of the 14 in its last years of production .... thanks for the pics :onya:
Yes...now do I fit the later ones to my K2 or try to keep it is as close to original... :laugh: would I really notice any difference on the road?
As long as you fit 2x k2 or 2xk5 forks you'll be ok . :onya:
I think the later ones share more parts with other suzuki's tho I've not checked part numbers yet :doh:
There is quite a difference i didnt realise there would be i striped and refurbed the k5 i had they were like the right hand ones i.v got the k2 ones in the shed that i was gonna rekon this winter and would have been suprised . Once again a gold mine of info on here
This is a great post - thanks.
I'm just about to replace the seals on my 2001 1400. I keep reading about the tool that's needed to undo some nut/screw....something. Is it the kind of thing I'll realise whilst pulling it all apart ?
I've seen a few home made tools for sliding into the tube....I'm assuming something has to be held, while something else is undone. Would love to see any other disassembly pics you have.....like whilst you're pulling it down. If not, no worries.
Peter
If you download the parts manual and go to page 72, you will see item No5 (bolt) that screws up from the bottom of the slider into the cartridge - item No14. Mine came apart with just a smart tap on the bolt, but when you come to reassemble, that is where the tool you have seen mentioned comes in, as you have to get the bolt screwed back into the cartridge, and you need to stop the cartridge from turning.
Hope this helps.
That helps heaps....thanks very much.
Almost didn't attempt this because I had no idea what the tool or the reason for having it was.
About to go outside no and start pulling it all down.
Many thanks.
Here's some pics in case anyone is interested.
First is that internal rod everyone says you need to "fork tool" for. The bolt on the end is what unscrews.
I haven't made the tool yet, but have bought the piupe to do so. I undid the bolt by buying a socket and using it with my air gun. Came out easy.
The bolt actually requires an allen key with socket for those that don't realise. You can make your own - it's just a 10 key and socket. Mine was $10 at the local hardware.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi216.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc276%2F71beeman%2F2001%2520Suzuki%2520GSX%25201400%2FIMG_20180516_144123_zps60uori3k.jpg&hash=24e146207e386393a963b1c30bdf62d99870bfbf)
This second pic shows simply the bolt and the tool I bought to remove it, using a rattle gun.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi216.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc276%2F71beeman%2FIMG_20180516_144153_zpsp9momdbm.jpg&hash=82f19674604f94d6c1594369de578d4ab5adc77b)
Third pic shows what I assume is the thing you need to "fork tool" for. I've bought a length of pipe and intend cutting it to fit, as people have previously stated. Looks like this just needs to be held in place in the tube while the bolt is tightened.
(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi216.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc276%2F71beeman%2F2001%2520Suzuki%2520GSX%25201400%2FIMG_20180516_144213_zpsl9dnalgy.jpg&hash=d119d99f54a44f9e6d4ad086a74433b53f472042)
On your third picture your are absolutely correct in that that is the tube that the fork tool is required for
Okay, got my stantions back today, here are a couple of pictures to show the differences between them, the top tube is the K5, the transfer holes are in different places.
You'll also find the hole in the bottom where the big plastic stopper goes is a different size too.(yellow on later forks white on earlier ones I think but could be the other way round )
Great to have pics to show the differences.
:cheers:
Pretty sure mine are white so you'd be correct that's the early ones.
Yeah, the different plastic inserts are shown in post No 6, white for early, yellow for K5 onwards :onya:
Are you able to document here the two different spacer lengths please?
Hi Folks
Some great info and photos here. :onya:
I have just stripped down my K3 forks. They look identical to the photos of the K2, although I think there may be subtle differences K2 to K3?
I can't get what is described in the service manual as the 'oil lock piece' (where the bottom of the cartridge locates) removed from the bottom of the outer fork tube. Do I need to get this part out?
Any suggestions would be welcomed!!!
Also, any recommendations for re-chroming in the UK or Ireland would be good. The important part of my fork tubes are actually good, but the upper parts around the clamps are suffering from a little 'spider web' corrosion
Ta
Geo
It should come out but can be a very tight fit
Are you sending away to get rechromed as if not they can stay in .
A.M. PHILPOTS is the place to get them re-chromed if you need but they take a while (Up to 6 working weeks)
But re-chromed but them is way better than cheaper pattern fork tubes .
Good luck
:cheers:
I used this place to do my forks, I think they came back in about two weeks & I can't fault the quality.
http://www.hardchromeplating.co.uk/
A mate who builds custom bikes for customers suggested them as he always uses them.
Well added
@Hooli that's the other place folk have used and recommend
:cheers:
:onya:
Thanks for the tips folks. I'd just emailed Philpott's earlier about re-chroming. I'm not in a big panic, but 6 weeks isa long time :undecided: I'll maybe have a look at the other guys (thanks Hooli).
As far as I can see, the part is actually stuck in the bottom of the outer (the cast bottom part of the forks) where the cartridge securing bolt comes up through :shocked: :rolleyes:
Not quite sure what I'm doing wrong... :embarrassed:
I suppose I don't really need it out - the cartridge seems to clip down into it OK?
It, the Oil lock piece, came out easy on mine. It sticks in place due to suction (oil film and previously applied pressure). Gets installed into the inner tube when reassembling. Can't remember if there is a specific direction that it has to be put in, so pay attention of its previous position.
One of mine tends to stick in, I just leave it there & rebuild the forks making sure the leg seats properly on it - twist & you'll feel it drop in.