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How to adjust your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
It is worth checking your TPS, your bike will run a lot smoother if it's out and readjusted. The TPS is a variable resistor (which is a coil of resistance wire with a wiper on it) and the wiper loses tension over time which increases resistance a little.
Adjusting your TPS
1. Set your idle RPM to 1100 RPM.
2. Take the Fuel Tank off
3. The Throttle position sensor is to be found on the left hand side of the throttle body, the connector runs up in front of the air box in between numbers 2 & 3 cylinders, you have to disconnect the 3 pin connector with ignition off (it's in a bit of a tight spot and you might need to cut a few cable ties
4. Using a multimeter, read the resistance of the TPS between the yellow and black terminal, it should read 1.1 Kohm or 1100 ohms with the throttle closed and 4.3 Kohm or 4300 ohms with the throttle open. (It helps if you can make up a connector or use some small alligator clips on the pins to free up your hands)
5. To adjust, you loosen off the two screws and turn the TPS, most people run out of adjustment on the lower end, mine stopped at 1140ohms but the bike runs fine, my top measurement was also out but the bottom one is the one you want as close as possible.
Some people have pulled out the brass collars to get more adjustment and others have needle-filed the female holes on the TPS.
The check above is a basic extract from the workshop manual.
AlfaDave from the old forum suggested a couple of tweeks on this procedure.
1. Remove seat and LH side cover.
2. Disconnect large grey connector from under LH side cover.
3. Measure resistance between pins as shown on the top connector as per picture.
4. Resistance at closed throttle should be 1100 ohms or 1.1 Kohms, throttle fully open should be 4300 ohms or 4.3 Kohms.
5. Loosen the two anti tamper screws on the LH TPS and adjust to bring resistance into range (the bottom value is more important than the top value).
6. Set RPM to 1100 (manual) or 1200 (AlfaDave).
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) gives an electrical representation of where the throttle is (1100 ohms closed), the TPS is a variable resistor which has a wiper arm moving over a coil of resistive wire, if the TPS is not correct fuelling is adjusted by the electrical position which differs the real mechanical position of the throttle and causes numerous running problems.
@RickC Now that method appeals as it saves removing the tank and trying to get to the TPS plug in amongst the throttle bodies..Much easier :onya:
is this picture (arrows) correct? Just zoomed and it looks 3 doesn't have a pin. checked on my 14 and no pin at 3rd position. Is perhaps be e other way around?
Or is my 14 abnormal haha probably...
Yeah, maybe it's the pins at the bottom of that pic, not the top?
Maybe a stupid question, but when you loosen the screws on the TPS and "adjust the TP sensor", what are you actually doing? Rotating, moving the TPS in some way??
Am yet to even lift the tank but would like a better understanding of what is required.
Quote from: Beaker on Wednesday, 29 March 2017, 06:52 AM
Maybe a stupid question, but when you loosen the screws on the TPS and "adjust the TP sensor", what are you actually doing? Rotating, moving the TPS in some way??
Am yet to even lift the tank but would like a better understanding of what is required.
YES..You are rotating the TPS Beaker :onya:
Thanks froudy!!
well, followed this and it made a difference - good stuff. I did need to read the resistance from the male plug though, not the female. Does the secondary TPS need to be adjusted too? Thanks guys...
J
Good work Jay,
I did check it but I may have made a mistake.
I'll recheck mine and amend the picture if I've screwed up.
Cheers,
Rick
I haven't done my STP Sensor yet, but this should help Jay :onya:
Picture and plug corrected.
Sorry for all of the confusion.
Good pick up Jay.
Hi guys, just checked and adjusted the tps, how much out does it need to be to make a difference?
Mine was reading over 1750 ish adjusted to 1130. Not been out and checked the bike and wuz wondering
How much 600 ish ohms will make.
Cheers guys.
I would imagine 600 Ohms will make a noticeable difference to how it runs :onya:
Been out for a spin, and I am sure she,s running smoother.do you need to adjust the one on the right hand side? :whatever:
@RIZLA750 The right hand side one is the STPS. If out of spec it needs to be adjusted. See froudy's post above for this.
The same large grey connector that is pictured in
@RickC reply #1 can be used to read the resistance when adjusting the
STPS.(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/736-300617044834.jpeg)
You also need to remove the air filter. Stick a hand into the air box and close a secondary throttle valve (STV) by pushing it with a finger.
If you don't have alligator clips for your multimeter, have a mate do the STV closing for you.
Hey guys. Bought my 14 about a month ago and have been trying to work out a bogging issue at high rpm. Did this tps adjustment and was able to get 1100 ohms when the throttle is fully closed but I can't get more then 2700 ohms when i wind the throttle open.
I took off the tps and rotate it by hand and even when wound to maximum it never goes higher then 2700 ohms.
Could this be causing the bogging by starving the motor of fuel? Do i need a new TPS?
I would say that's a fair bet, see if you can borrow a good one to test, if it works you need a new one if not you've only lost a bit of time. Someone on here may be able to help
Yeah thanks mate!
If they are too expensive to replace I will be on here later seeing if anyone lives in Newcastle with a 14!
Hi Dan, I had 'odd' readings on my TPS as well, bit the bullet & paid $165 for a new one from Suzuki. Had to wait about 4 weeks to get it in from Japan & when I did, damn readings were no better (or not much) than the one I replaced! I couldn't get 1.1k ohms at closed or anywhere near 4.3k ohms on wide open. think I got .285 at closed & 1.7 at wide open.
Bike still ran the same with either of the TPS's in - just slightly rich (I think) and a bit of a 'surgeing' at low - mid throttle, but pulled fine to red line without missing a beat.
Reckon I wasted $165 on a new TPS as even a new one doesn't give the reading you're supposed to get.
very disappointing col, i get correct from mine. no answer from me. its one of the most important sensors, tells the computer where youre at. very strange result
Col, "odd readings" may be due to the multimeter? Tried with another one? Put in a new battery in the meter?
Hey col sucks that you wasted the money on the new tps. If your bike is still pulling hard at higher rpm with only 1.7k ohm then it's a safe bet the bogging of mine at high rpm is unrelated to the tps!
Also after what you said andre I tested my multimeter on a few resistors I had lying around and it seems fine?
Back to the drawing board i guess :confused1:
Quote from: Andre on Thursday, 10 August 2017, 07:42 PM
Col, "odd readings" may be due to the multimeter? Tried with another one? Put in a new battery in the meter?
Yeah, I thought it could be the meter (or the operator) but it reads correct for everything else I use it for . . . I put a new battery in anyway, same result.
I left the new TPS on the bike as those readings were slightly higher and closer to spec than the original, just tested the original the other week as it happens, it's sitting in the box the new one came in, same readings.
iwould be really pissed off Col. new one faulty. ask for a new one, i would. not within specs, written in manual. just plain faolty. get up them, be a true suzuki rider. nothing to lose.
Think I should buy a new meter & see how that goes, or maybe take the tps to an auto sparky & have them check the readings as a comparison before I barge into the only Suzuki shop in town & say it's faulty & I want a replacement.
Christchurch is a very small place compared to Brissy, so one has to be a bit careful.
not often meters are faulty, i have at least five, cheap to expensive. jaycar/digitech i use, maybe 3 yrs now. all day, everyday. just as good as my 400 dollar fluke. my first one was just as good, left it under car somewhere, bought exact same. not sure if avail. in nz, i can post you one if necessary. https://www.jaycar.com.au/economy-true-rms-autorange-multimeter/p/QM1321
Meters may be rarely faulty but still would have it double checked before raising the issue with the dealer. It is very odd that both old (defect?) and new have similar off-the-wall readings.
agree Andre. very odd
Just ordered one of those QM1321 meters, will pick it up this afternoon. I'll have a play with the original TPS & see what this one reads it at. I'll let you know what I get.
Well, got the new meter & guess what? It's got a different reading on the resistance than my old meter. Checked the original TPS & it's fine! Just could have done with some adjustment, but the readings I got said it was shot, hence I brought a new TPS.
Min reading was .511 & max was 4.94, so the scope for 1.1 - 4.6 is certainly avail on my 'old' TPS. Now I've got 2 of them!
Will have to set the one on the bike now as it was just 'wound' round as far as it would go, so room for improvement there then. Bit too cold & wet to be bothered going out to the shed tonight, it'll wait till a warmer afternoon / evening.
So, all's well that ends well. I've now got 2 meters & 2 TPS's. Thanks for the tip on the new meter Grog, it's a 'meaty' lump isn't it. Hell of a lot more functions than I'm ever gonna use though. Got it for just under $50 on this side of the ditch.
Cheers
@grog
BTW, the old meter is being consigned to the bin. I've had it 25 + years & it's done me well (till now) but it's had it's day & I can't rely on it any more.
well done Col, prob solved. they are a bloody good meter, might surprise you what uses it comes helpful in. 1/8 price of fluke and ive found mine totally reliable. bounces round all day in my ute and still going. someone on forum was looking to buy tps. even with post still something back. about tps, you prob. already know. block off pairs intake near air box,ride till hot, and set idle exact 1100revs, then set tps exact 1100 ohms. tps cheat on grey plug is so easy. tell me how sweet it rides, mine is so perfect, been same maybe 5 yrs. makes them so smooth. i just re checked tps, hasnt changed in all that time. just re checked throttle cables, havent changed. tight as you can without revs changing lock to lock on bars. such a sweet bike. fast or slow.
The pairs system is blocked off there all the time. Yep, I'll be doing it on the grey plug & probably do the stps as well since it's the same plug. Got some cree running lights that need fitting, so the tank'll be off to do the wiring, might wait & do it all at once, just waiting on a switch for the lights.
Checked it tonight after a good warm up. 1111ohms at closed but only 2745 at wot? & this is the new tps. Bike still runs fine though. Read somewhere it was more important to get the lower one right than the higher one, but how much out?
I guess if it's running fine & pulls consistently & evenly right through to red, well, can't be too much wrong then.
When I tested the STPS I had a similar difference for the max the value given in the service manual. Everything ran fine though. Let me to check the output voltage of the STPS. Found it to be right in Spec. The control unit doesn't care about the resistance as it uses the voltage to make its decisions.
Haven't done the WOT readings on the TPS but assume it will show the correct voltage as everything works fine. My bet is that we have found another mistake in the manual.
still strange to my thoughts. mine gets all correct values, volts, ohms. both sensors. if its going perfect, dont worry. if its not broke, dont fix it. fill her up and just ride.
Quote from: RickC on Monday, 20 March 2017, 10:07 PM
The check above is a basic extract from the workshop manual.
AlfaDave from the old forum suggested a couple of tweeks on this procedure.
1. Remove seat and LH side cover.
2. Disconnect large grey connector from under LH side cover.
3. Measure resistance between pins as shown on the top connector as per picture.
4. Resistance at closed throttle should be 1100 ohms or 1.1 Kohms, throttle fully open should be 4300 ohms or 4.3 Kohms.
5. Loosen the two anti tamper screws on the LH TPS and adjust to bring resistance into range (the bottom value is more important than the top value).
6. Set RPM to 1100 (manual) or 1200 (AlfaDave).
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) gives an electrical representation of where the throttle is (1100 ohms closed), the TPS is a variable resistor which has a wiper arm moving over a coil of resistive wire, if the TPS is not correct fuelling is adjusted by the electrical position which differs the real mechanical position of the throttle and causes numerous running problems.
I had adjusted the cables a while ago and still had a harsh pick up after deceleration, did this check and adjustment today and it is like a different bike, smooth and even acceleration. thanks.
well done mate. when you get everything adjusted on 14 its a sweet/smooth ride. once done ive found it stays same for a very long time. when i first got mine, yrs ago, it had been fully serviced by suzuki dealer. i thought it would be perfect. wrong. so many adjusts were way out. forks were even diff. one side to the other. tps was reading 1800 at closed. worst thing, terrible really, one caliper bolts werent even tightened. listen to blokes on here, talented bunch. follow advice. grab some spanners, sockets etc, a six pack of beer, sit down one arvo, check every nut n bolt. a writing pad is handy, amazing what little mods you want after a few coldies. i like doing this and certainly gives peace of mind that all is well.
"Full Service", what a misnomer! The glas is at most half full.
In a vehicle still under warranty, a full service is adequate, if done complete and correct. The older the vehicle gets, the more "full" needs to be replaced with minimal. In case of motorcycle even more though. If you don't do the needed work yourself, you need a thick wallet (and still can't be sure to have the work done well).
hi folks checked my tps with sidecover method and get 1.2k ohms at idle and only 2.5 fully open
any suggestions ?
Ian, look above at my reply #35. I've got similar readings with a new TPS. Bike runs fine though.
Good Day Gentlemen
Just checked the TPS on me Bike using the pins on the big grey block - now I generally run my bike with a tick over close to a 1000rpm - and therefore forgot to set the the tick over to 1100 rpm as the how to states . . . . my bad :confused1:
initial checking showed the TPS to be at 1156 ohm with the throttle closed and fully open was only getting a reading of 2550 ohms - so I adusted to 1200 ohms and still only 2550 ohms fully open
question - is there an issue that will need to be looked into with the TPS only showing 2550 ohms fully open
Cheers Del
As long as everything runs fine I wouldn't worry about it. See previous posts, especially Col's. I think that the manual is wrong (again :thumbs_down: )
My bike also runs fine but for curiosity I checked the TPS readings..
1102 lower and 2550 upper.
So as the others have said forget the upper reading.
very strange these tps readings. agree, lower is the main one. smooth running. might fits in both readings, top &bottom. weird that some do, some dont. also agree, if its not broken, dont try and fix.
cheers guys confidence in your knowledge is reassuring
I knew I had the lower reading spot on but niggled a bit that the open throttle reading was out - what was concerning me was when riding the bike it can be a little jerky on the throttle on occasion like the bike has shut off - but the overfilling the forks was making the ride exceptionally hard so this could have added to the issues - we will see tomorrow on the morning commute
Del
That jerky feeling like the bike is shutting off: I was getting that really bad when I was just cruising on half throttle then would open up the throttle.
To fix I cleaned the fuel filters really well and replaced the O-rings to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump (same O-ring sizes)
I don't know if the O-rings helped the issue at hand but cleaning the fuel filters helped out a lot!
In my situation I had a bridged clutch switch that I didn't know about from the previous owner, which effects the ignition timing and made the issue REALLY bad.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for some good info. I've just checked mine and it was @900 .The anti tamper bolts were still in situ and looked like they'd never been moved.
Did an adjustment and got it 1102
Quote from: Dan B on Tuesday, 12 June 2018, 07:41 PM
In my situation I had a bridged clutch switch that I didn't know about from the previous owner, which effects the ignition timing and made the issue REALLY bad.
Hope this helps.
Good call that.
I bridged mine for a while when it was playing up & the bike was damn near unridable at low revs because of how it made it cough & splutter. Drunk fuel like a fish too.
A while ago I read of one or two people on here having clutch switch issues so I did a pre emptive move of replacing a healthy clutch switch..
Rather than wait for a problem I replaced it before the problem happened.
They are NOT expensive so I went ahead..
The side stand one is a lot more expensive so that can wait !!
Lol
(Not that I am tight !!!)
clutch switch a must. mapping changes if not used. i can actually hear mine change as i move lever out a bit at lights etc. pull back in, reverts to previous map.
[quote
They are NOT expensive so I went ahead..
[/quote]
How much was it please ?
Quote from: Speedy1959 on Wednesday, 19 September 2018, 06:39 PM
A while ago I read of one or two people on here having clutch switch issues so I did a pre emptive move of replacing a healthy clutch switch..
Rather than wait for a problem I replaced it before the problem happened.
They are NOT expensive so I went ahead..
The side stand one is a lot more expensive so that can wait !!
Lol
(Not that I am tight !!!)
I filled mine with contact cleaner and got a tiny screwdriver in to scrub the contacts. Still running the original switch now.
:frustrated:
I read all your posts about setting TPS and STPS....
I set mine at 1100 ohms, STPS was in specs, put new spark plugs and my bike is still running jerky, very hard to ride it at constant speed between 2500 and 3000 rpm. I know my chain is ready to be replaced but my bike does not run well even on paddock stand. If I keep engine running at cca 3000 rpms I cean still feel it doesn't rum smooth.
I also checked all sensors (all in specs) and every contact is clean and sprayed with contact cleaner. Sidestand switch and clutch lever switch also do their job. Is it possible that clutch lever swith causes my problem even if it's not bridged and works as it should? I don't know what else could be problem :whatever:
Oh, I forgot to say that I did external fuel filter mod (HP filter removed), put new teabag filter and sealed fuel tank and put fresh fuel...
Try an electronic reset (to make the ECU relearn the throttle positions):
1. Disconnect the negativ on the battery
2. Turn ignition on for a few minutes, then off again
3. Reconnect the negative on the battery
4. Turn ignition on
5. Open and close the throttle all the way a couple times
6. Start the engine without moving the throttle
If above does not help check for a vacuum leak.
I currently have this problem myself, running jerky between ~1500-3000 rpm with a fluctuation of ~100 rpm. No fluctuation at idle! However, vacuum leak (on #4 rubber air intake pipe) test increased idle by 200 rpm. Pulled the TB today. No obvious damage to the rubber as far as I can see. Need an inspection mirror to see all of it. The clamps were sitting rather loosely but tightening didn't help.
Thank you Andre! I will try that, hope it will help.
Quote from: mlivkovich on Saturday, 23 February 2019, 04:20 AM
:frustrated:
I read all your posts about setting TPS and STPS....
I set mine at 1100 ohms, STPS was in specs, put new spark plugs and my bike is still running jerky, very hard to ride it at constant speed between 2500 and 3000 rpm. I know my chain is ready to be replaced but my bike does not run well even on paddock stand. If I keep engine running at cca 3000 rpms I cean still feel it doesn't rum smooth.
I also checked all sensors (all in specs) and every contact is clean and sprayed with contact cleaner. Sidestand switch and clutch lever switch also do their job. Is it possible that clutch lever swith causes my problem even if it's not bridged and works as it should? I don't know what else could be problem :whatever:
There has been more than a passing mention of how improved the smoothness of the bike is after new sprockets & chain are fitted. Dunno why it makes such a difference, but it appears it just does. Might want to bang some new ones on and see how that goes, as you said above, it's due for replacement anyway, so may as well get that done & see how it is then.
Thank you KiwiCol, but it doesn't run smooth even on paddock stand, so in that case chain is eliminated.
Quote from: mlivkovich on Saturday, 23 February 2019, 04:20 AM
:frustrated:
I read all your posts about setting TPS and STPS....
I set mine at 1100 ohms, STPS was in specs, put new spark plugs and my bike is still running jerky, very hard to ride it at constant speed between 2500 and 3000 rpm. I know my chain is ready to be replaced but my bike does not run well even on paddock stand. If I keep engine running at cca 3000 rpms I cean still feel it doesn't rum smooth.
I also checked all sensors (all in specs) and every contact is clean and sprayed with contact cleaner. Sidestand switch and clutch lever switch also do their job. Is it possible that clutch lever swith causes my problem even if it's not bridged and works as it should? I don't know what else could be problem :whatever:
I've had that. Can't remember how I sorted it though, if I remember I'll let you know.
Quote from: Dan B on Tuesday, 12 June 2018, 07:41 PM
That jerky feeling like the bike is shutting off: I was getting that really bad when I was just cruising on half throttle then would open up the throttle.
To fix I cleaned the fuel filters really well and replaced the O-rings to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump (same O-ring sizes)
I don't know if the O-rings helped the issue at hand but cleaning the fuel filters helped out a lot!
In my situation I had a bridged clutch switch that I didn't know about from the previous owner, which effects the ignition timing and made the issue REALLY bad.
Hope this helps.
I'm working through trying to sort my K2 14 out, rides rough at low rpms and in lower gears. Out of interest, how do you know if the clutch switch is bridged? Is it visible or audible.? I can hear mine click each time I pull the clutch in. TPS and STPS to be checked, need a new multimeter first...
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Tuesday, 14 May 2019, 12:37 AM
Quote from: Dan B on Tuesday, 12 June 2018, 07:41 PM
That jerky feeling like the bike is shutting off: I was getting that really bad when I was just cruising on half throttle then would open up the throttle.
To fix I cleaned the fuel filters really well and replaced the O-rings to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump (same O-ring sizes)
I don't know if the O-rings helped the issue at hand but cleaning the fuel filters helped out a lot!
In my situation I had a bridged clutch switch that I didn't know about from the previous owner, which effects the ignition timing and made the issue REALLY bad.
Hope this helps.
I'm working through trying to sort my K2 14 out, rides rough at low rpms and in lower gears. Out of interest, how do you know if the clutch switch is bridged? Is it visible or audible.? I can hear mine click each time I pull the clutch in. TPS and STPS to be checked, need a new multimeter first...
There are two wires going to the clutch switch (under the clutch lever), which fit on with spade connectors. If the clutch switch is bridged, there would be a wire in between those two spade connectors most likely.
Quote from: gsxbarmy on Tuesday, 14 May 2019, 04:13 AM
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Tuesday, 14 May 2019, 12:37 AM
Quote from: Dan B on Tuesday, 12 June 2018, 07:41 PM
That jerky feeling like the bike is shutting off: I was getting that really bad when I was just cruising on half throttle then would open up the throttle.
To fix I cleaned the fuel filters really well and replaced the O-rings to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump (same O-ring sizes)
I don't know if the O-rings helped the issue at hand but cleaning the fuel filters helped out a lot!
In my situation I had a bridged clutch switch that I didn't know about from the previous owner, which effects the ignition timing and made the issue REALLY bad.
Hope this helps.
I'm working through trying to sort my K2 14 out, rides rough at low rpms and in lower gears. Out of interest, how do you know if the clutch switch is bridged? Is it visible or audible.? I can hear mine click each time I pull the clutch in. TPS and STPS to be checked, need a new multimeter first...
There are two wires going to the clutch switch (under the clutch lever), which fit on with spade connectors. If the clutch switch is bridged, there would be a wire in between those two spade connectors most likely.
That, or just try starting it without pulling the clutch. If the starter fires it's bridged somewhere.
Thanks for that, checked and the clutch switch is def not bridged, there are two spade connectors into the switch and the bike won't start unless the clutch is pulled in, as it's supposed to.
Picked up new multimeter today, will check TPS and STPS in the next few days.
Quote from: Hooli on Saturday, 23 February 2019, 10:10 AM
Quote from: mlivkovich on Saturday, 23 February 2019, 04:20 AM
:frustrated:
I read all your posts about setting TPS and STPS....
I set mine at 1100 ohms, STPS was in specs, put new spark plugs and my bike is still running jerky, very hard to ride it at constant speed between 2500 and 3000 rpm. I know my chain is ready to be replaced but my bike does not run well even on paddock stand. If I keep engine running at cca 3000 rpms I cean still feel it doesn't rum smooth.
I also checked all sensors (all in specs) and every contact is clean and sprayed with contact cleaner. Sidestand switch and clutch lever switch also do their job. Is it possible that clutch lever swith causes my problem even if it's not bridged and works as it should? I don't know what else could be problem :whatever:
I've had that. Can't remember how I sorted it though, if I remember I'll let you know.
@mlivkovich Did you solve the problem?
@Hooli Do you remember now how you sorted this?
@Andre, problem solved. I did external filter mod, so I cut HP filter housing and soldered it back. I missed few spots so it was loosing fuel pressure.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Tuesday, 14 May 2019, 11:00 PM
Thanks for that, checked and the clutch switch is def not bridged, there are two spade connectors into the switch and the bike won't start unless the clutch is pulled in, as it's supposed to.
Picked up new multimeter today, will check TPS and STPS in the next few days.
Righto, so I got the new multimeter and checked the TPS and STPS on my K2 1402 today. Started up, let it warm up for 5-10 min, idle rpm set at 1100 rpm, idle is nice and smooth, needle does not move and bike just purrs away. So I was happy that the idle speed was correct and engine was warm.
TPS:
Switched it off, removed the LH side cover and tested TPS (left hand side of bike first), lower setting (resistance value) was 1108 Ohm, I managed to adjust it to sit on 1100 Ohms exactly. Opened throttles by twist grip a few times, each time the value settled back to 1100 Ohms, so all good. At wide open throttle the TPS sensor reads 2564 Ohms, which is weird, as it should get to ~4300 Ohms or so, but as I've read here, not unusual. I'm definitely getting WOT, so no issue with the mechanism etc. my view is that this could be because measuring at the large grey plug, not at the TPS connector. If I end up pulling the throttle bodies off (read below) then I might recheck at the connector.
STPS on RHS of bike, removed side cover etc, hooked up multimeter to pins as shown in this thread, lower value reads 2178 Ohm, WTF? Manual says it should read only 800 Ohm.
Removed the sensor, can turn the little rotator by hand and the sensor goes down to ~413 Ohm, and up to ~2700Ohm, so I think the sensor is fine. The angle of the STB shaft that grabs the sensor rotator is off-set by about 45deg, so I cannot get the sensor to read below 1920 Ohms anyway.
So, do I need to pull out the STBV? Can't reach the STV adjuster screw with normal screw drivers etc.
Is the STB actuator broken? The manual talk about not serviceable and replace as an assembly.
at low rpm that the bike misbehaves, i.e. doesn't run nice.
Haven't balanced the throttle bodies yet...
Any ideas from the brains trust?
Thanks in advance. :notworthy:
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Sunday, 19 May 2019, 09:29 PM
TPS:
Switched it off, removed the LH side cover and tested TPS (left hand side of bike first), lower setting (resistance value) was 1108 Ohm, I managed to adjust it to sit on 1100 Ohms exactly. Opened throttles by twist grip a few times, each time the value settled back to 1100 Ohms, so all good. At wide open throttle the TPS sensor reads 2564 Ohms, which is weird, as it should get to ~4300 Ohms or so, but as I've read here, not unusual. I'm definitely getting WOT, so no issue with the mechanism etc. my view is that this could be because measuring at the large grey plug, not at the TPS connector. If I end up pulling the throttle bodies off (read below) then I might recheck at the connector.
Yes, you will get a difference when comparing large grey with the black connector at the sensor. I get 100 Ohm LESS on the large grey! Read about this somewhere else and just tested this a couple of days ago. Strange it would be less, I would have expected it to be more :whatever:
The TPS will go over 4.3k Ohms but not while installed. I suspect that the high value in the manual was just taken from the TPS-manufacturer's spec-sheet. Not the first error in the manual!!!
No need to pull the throttle bodies off to get to the connectors. It's a pain in the ass but not ass much pain than pulling the throttle bodies off.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Sunday, 19 May 2019, 09:29 PM
STPS on RHS of bike, removed side cover etc, hooked up multimeter to pins as shown in this thread, lower value reads 2178 Ohm, WTF? Manual says it should read only 800 Ohm.
Did you open the secondary throttle valve by going with your hand through the airbox and kept the valve open while you measured? If you didn't you got the value that would be expected!
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Sunday, 19 May 2019, 09:29 PMSo, do I need to pull out the STBV?
NO (Assuming by STBV you mean Secondary throttle body valves).
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Sunday, 19 May 2019, 09:29 PM
Haven't balanced the throttle bodies yet...
Should have done that first. Might well be the reason for the misbehavior at low RPM. Also this needs to be done before adjusting the TPS!
Danke Andre,
Rereading the manual I now know where I went wrong, so no I didn't manually close the secondaries, will give that a try. my bad. :doh:
Engine runs absolutely fine above 1800rpm or so, this is why I didn't balance the throttle bodies. I will get the STP to the right values or close enough to,then worry about balancing 1+2 and 3+4.
If you're getting 100 Ohm less measured at the grey connector, does that mean you've set the TPS and STP at 100ohm higher to compensate?
I'll let you know the results, thanks again for the response.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Monday, 20 May 2019, 10:06 PMEngine runs absolutely fine above 1800rpm or so, this is why I didn't balance the throttle bodies. I will get the STP to the right values or close enough to,then worry about balancing 1+2 and 3+4.
The STPS is not significant to the syncing. I was referring to the TPS. First syncing, then TPS adjusting.
Don't forget to balance BETWEEN 1+2 AND 3+4 AFTER you balanced 1+2 and 3+4. Also make sure that the idle stays where it should during the process of syncing and adjust the idle if it changes while you sync. If you anticipate that it will take you awhile for the process then place a ventilator in front of the bike.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Monday, 20 May 2019, 10:06 PMIf you're getting 100 Ohm less measured at the grey connector, does that mean you've set the TPS and STP at 100ohm higher to compensate?
I would set right at the sensors' connectors (as it says in the manual) to the correct values. When you have done that, you can measure at the big grey connector and note the difference. It doesn't have to be 100 Ohm in your case, maybe it is 50 Ohm. Also TPS and STPS could be different. When you know the difference write it down for future reference and adjust on the big grey. In my case I can adjust to 1000 Ohm on the grey and be pretty sure that it is at 1100 at the TPS connector.
Thanks Andre,
Will do and let you know how it goes.
The readings differ because when measuring at the grey connector the TPS and STPS are in parallel which will affect the resistance readings
Here's what I got.
At Sensor At grey connector
STPS Open 2743Ω 2067Ω
Closed 801Ω 761Ω
TPS Open 4434Ω 2645Ω
Closed 1156Ω 1052Ω
The biggest difference is with the Open settings, particularly the TPS
The STPS drops by 40ohms and the TPS by about 100ohms at Closed. As you can see I couldn't adjust the TPS down to 1100 ohms just as some others have found.
I made a jig to connect between the two grey connectors so that I could read the voltages that Suzuki specify more easily. It also makes checking the Fast Idle settings easier. I can set the closed voltage for the TPS to 1.1 volts which if the TPS and STPS are working fine is possibly slightly better than getting the resistance correct.
Very good post/info there
@Monarchjock
Checked and adjusted my TPS and STPS yesterday, all readings at the sensor connectors. TPS at 1100 Ohm closed and 4217Ohm at wot. As per spec.
STPS set to 799 Ohm closed. Went through the Airbox to hold the secondaries closed after removing the air filter. Found that if you actuate the secondaries via their common rod underneath the sensor, I.e. outside the airbox, you get the same result, so there is actually no need to remove the air filter. Pushing up on the rod from underneath closes the Secondaries, pulling down opens them.
All adjusted, restarted and found that the fast idle was also much better. Went for a 30minute ride and much improved low speed throttle response. When hot, I adjusted the manual idle speed to sit just above 1000rpm (indicated). Happy so far. Thanks for the valuable input here, much appreciated.
Heads up with using this method.
Disclaimer - all bikes are different so this is just what I found with my 1400, others might be different. I checked this several times over and using 2 different multi-meters. To the point where the second one is brand new - purchased to make sure my first multi-meter was reading correctly.
When using the large plug to get the readings for the TPS and the Secondary TPS - your readings might well be slightly out and reading low when compared to getting the resistance readings directly from the plug connected to the sensors.
I checked this several times over as I installed a complete (spare) throttle body today. I had previously checked the TPS and STPS directly at the sensor plug and got them exact.
Installed on the bike and then when through the whole throttle body balance process etc.
Then decided to check the readings again using the large plug - just to make sure everything was still OK after throttle body balance.
The readings were different from the large plug - I didn't think anything of it so I re-adjusted both sensors. But then the bike started to run like a pig afterwards.
Taking everything apart again - I checked the resistance at the TPS sensor plug - it was wrong.. then compared to the large plug as mentioned at the start of this thread and it said it was right resistance.. - same issue with the STPS readings.
Again - I reset the resistance using the readings at the actual sensor plug - got both the TPS and STPS correct... again.
Started the bike and it was all smooth again.
So I suggest if you are going to use the large plug - I would just double check that it gives you the same readings as getting the resistance from the actual sensor plug.
For me. TPS Sensor reading was 1.1 ohms resistance - but the large plug was reading 0.97 resistance
STPS sensor reading was .8 ohms (valves closed) but the large plug was reading 0.74
Not a big difference - but enough to make my bike run very rough and coughing at idle.
At least now, I know what the difference is and if I decide to use the large plug (being lazy) then I know what the readings need to be. But I don't think it is all that difficult to use the plugs on the sensors. Granted - a little more time to lift the tank and unplug the sensors.. but I'd rather get the right readings at the source.
Bluedragon, if you look back at page 5 of this thread, Andre has already made this point and I have given the difference in readings I found on my setup.
Can't make this point often enough, especially for those who don't read the whole thread before posting (or have forgotten what they have read before). :smile2:
Quote from: Andre on Monday, 21 October 2019, 06:06 AM
Can't make this point often enough, especially for those who don't read the whole thread before posting (or have forgotten what they have read before). :smile2:
My bad - more I forgot what I read through with so much to read in this thread
Possibly dragging up an old thread again here but what would cause the TPS setting to need readjusting?
Just asking as I recently set both TPS & STPS to the recommended settings all was well, cold start was spot on & bike rode great. Over the last couple of weeks I have done the HP Fuel Filter bypass and also removed the Delkevic exhausts & refitted the standards, started the bike this evening & while she fired first time the cold start did not activate at all and bike was struggling to idle so knocked her off straight away, thought that was strange so I checked the TPS and it had gone up from 1100 ohms to 1180 ohms STPS was still spot on at 800 ohms, reset to 1100 ohms and although there was still a bit of heat in the bike the cold start seemed to kick in for a few seconds and the bike idled much smoother again - seems strange?
The screws you balance the throttles with can move slightly due to vibration, heat can make the adjustment mechs between the throttle bodies change slightly due to differential expansion etc etc
I did adjust my TP sensor today. Initially the reading was 1.3kohms idle and 4.45 fully open. I did it 1.15 idle and 4.3 open. I'm not sure how relevant is but the engine wasn't very hot. It's been about 2 hours after I stopped the engine. The weird thing is that even in the very end position on the sensor the readings are not 1.1kohms, it is about 1.12kohms.
Quote from: Persizi on Monday, 19 July 2021, 07:16 AM
The weird thing is that even in the very end position on the sensor the readings are not 1.1kohms, it is about 1.12kohms.
If you have read through the whole thread Persizi you will see this is normal. Nothing to worry about.
If you take the TPS out it does adjust below 1.1k. Just seems daft that fitting it restricts the adjustment.
Close enough Persizi, think i somehow filed mine out to get exact.
It's the voltage returned to the ECU that matters really, not the resistance. But the resistance is much easier to check & gets it approximately right.
Is someone knows what is the right size of the anti tamper screws? Because I hurt one and I want to change it.
Quote from: RickC on Monday, 20 March 2017, 10:07 PMThe check above is a basic extract from the workshop manual.
AlfaDave from the old forum suggested a couple of tweeks on this procedure.
1. Remove seat and LH side cover.
2. Disconnect large grey connector from under LH side cover.
3. Measure resistance between pins as shown on the top connector as per picture.
4. Resistance at closed throttle should be 1100 ohms or 1.1 Kohms, throttle fully open should be 4300 ohms or 4.3 Kohms.
5. Loosen the two anti tamper screws on the LH TPS and adjust to bring resistance into range (the bottom value is more important than the top value).
6. Set RPM to 1100 (manual) or 1200 (AlfaDave).
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) gives an electrical representation of where the throttle is (1100 ohms closed), the TPS is a variable resistor which has a wiper arm moving over a coil of resistive wire, if the TPS is not correct fuelling is adjusted by the electrical position which differs the real mechanical position of the throttle and causes numerous running problems.
:cheers:
Bine new to me was very Jerky on and off the throttle ( had to clutch her in on small roundabouts) so followed this one and it's not much much better ! However I can get 1100 ohms (was 1650) no bother but it's only 2600 on full throttle . Bike runs well now .
Checked it with 2 meters and reading concurs
For me it's happy so I'm happy but anything going to get better still with new TPS sensor ?
If she's now running smooth, leave it as is. That'd be my suggestion.
The upper reading is often wrong. It doesn't matter though, it's the voltage the ECU sees back from the sensor that matters & if it's running right then that can't be far off.
There are instructions in the workshop manual how to test that if you really want to waste your time over it.
Quote from: Andre on Friday, 30 June 2017, 05:08 AMThe same large grey connector that is pictured in @RickC reply #1 can be used to read the resistance when adjusting the STPS.(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/736-300617044834.jpeg)
You also need to remove the air filter. Stick a hand into the air box and close a secondary throttle valve (STV) by pushing it with a finger.
If you don't have alligator clips for your multimeter, have a mate do the STV closing for you.
Quote from: Andre on Friday, 30 June 2017, 05:08 AMThe same large grey connector that is pictured in @RickC reply #1 can be used to read the resistance when adjusting the STPS.(https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/gallery/0/736-300617044834.jpeg)
You also need to remove the air filter. Stick a hand into the air box and close a secondary throttle valve (STV) by pushing it with a finger.
If you don't have alligator clips for your multimeter, have a mate do the STV closing for you.
So y9u say push just valve closed ? When adjusting stps?
I'm trying to sort mine . Git 1100 ohms closed 2800 open . Stps is not much play but maybe due to not sorting the vaove correctly in the air box . Please explain more elaborately if you would thank you buddyv
Kevin..
You can only access the rod from the left side (Throttle adjustment screw side) of the bike..
Its very difficult to explain where it is as its done by feel..
Its possible to see with a mirror (as I did) to familiarize yourself with a layout you cannot actually see !!
Basically if you follow the Idle adjuster cable under the throttle body, the adjustment lever that you need to push is very close to where the cable sort of U bends..
Its a case of learning the feel of underneath the bodies and navigating from the adjustment cable..
In my case I spent 10 or 15 minutes feeling and gently pushing on various protrusions..
Eventually I felt the lever jobby (Their is only one) and it pushes upwards about an inch.
The photos will show what I mean by "navigate from the Idle adjuster cable".
My multi meter has the option of very small alligator clips which I fitted onto the Grey socket pins as in the photo..
Switched multi meter on and initially the readings were miles different from what is recommended, BUT I then re fumbled about and pushed the lever and the readings were still out but had moved a lot nearer..
I did this on my own which meant going back and forth to the STPS and adjusting it a bit then re take a reading with the lever pressed..
Took about 5 attempts to get it very close indeed..
So its certainly doable from beneath the throttle boddies without removing the air filter etc..
REMEMBER, this is only accessible from the LEFT side of the bike!!
2.jpg
3 - closeup.jpg
S
My preference is to poke the adjuster on the RH side between TB 3&4 to close the secondary throttles. As the SPS reads off TB4 you know it's fully shut then.
With the greatest respect Mr Hooli,
Isnt there something to be said for "actuating" the Actuator?
In other words pushing the lever I highlighted is where the actuator is connected, so surely this would translate to an accurate enough reading at the ECU ?
Main benefit of doing it as I suggested is you dont need to remove / raise the tank.
S
You don't need to move the tank doing it my way either.
I'd say it's 50/50 tbh. My way gives a more accurate reading of the TB it's reading but yours gives a better reading of the average off all four TBs.
When I rebuild the TBs I balance them with drill bits to make sure they are all set equally. Provided they aren't far out I doubt it makes much difference.
This was posted before and explains why you get different readings at the big connector block vs off the sensor connector under the tank;
"The readings differ because when measuring at the grey connector the TPS and STPS are in parallel which will affect the resistance readings"
Its like oil,tyres etc. Phew. I did mine years ago, she runs sweet, never bothered again. Must be a northern hemisphere thing to be so concerned. :stir:
Quote from: T250 on Saturday, 24 June 2023, 06:07 PMThis was posted before and explains why you get different readings at the big connector block vs off the sensor connector under the tank;
"The readings differ because when measuring at the grey connector the TPS and STPS are in parallel which will affect the resistance readings"
Which is odd as I've checked mine right back to the ECU plug when looking for an issue and they were identical all the way.
The sensors can't be in parallel because then the ECU wouldn't be able to read them individually. The power feed probably is, but that doesn't matter for calibration.
as I said in another thread I used my 2 multimeters and got a different reading each time !!! so i set the TPS the way Suzuki told me to do it using a dealer mode switch and the 3 lines on the dash. the STPS is a different matter though. :onya:
Quote from: hard road on Sunday, 25 June 2023, 12:40 AMas I said in another thread I used my 2 multimeters and got a different reading each time !!! so i set the TPS the way Suzuki told me to do it using a dealer mode switch and the 3 lines on the dash. the STPS is a different matter though. :onya:
To be fair I wasn't even aware of the dealer mode function for setting the TPS, I spoke to a very good bike engineer and he totally agreed with you stating Suzuki's have been set up this way for years, he seemed a little surprised that I had gone to the effort to check resistances at both the multi plug and at each sensors plug
Out of interest when I got the bike home I put the bike into dealer mode and sure enough the small dash was in the correct position
-C00 again out of interest I decided to loosen off the TPS and adjust to see if the small dash actually moved, it did but from memory I think I needed to go down to something like 700Ohm before it moved down and up to approx 1350ohm before it moved upwards, this made me realiSe that there is quite a large window for the correct setting of the TPS. Just a side note of anybody else tries this, after making the adjustment you need to take the bike out of dealer mode and back in to see the change, the ECU does not update the signal in live time
Cheers
yep, same for most F.I Suzuki's :onya:
Setting the resistance is only a base calibration anyway. What matters is the return voltage the ECU sees.
Thanks to all the information on this topic I have almost got the bike running spot on. It's way better than it was before. It was like an on/off switch shutting and opening the throttle. A bit more fine fettling will hopefully make it even smoother now that I have the expected readings on TPS and STPS. Thanks folks.
Chasing this old chestnut again...Even though all my sensors were within spec I still had a problem just off throttle, which was a pain in slow moving traffic, after re-reading a post
@Hooli about some testing on a Yank forum, I decided to take a punt and bought a complete set of secondhand throttle bodies with all the sensors and STVA for less than the price of just a TPS!
Anyway, I went through the checks comparing my original with the replacement and have attached a list of my findings, I did the same checks for the STPS and they were very similar.
I have put the new to me TPS on the bike, and it has cured my problem, I think once a voltage is applied while being driven this is probably where my old TPS was failing.
I measured at the sensor, I think the different readings of sensor/Big grey plug are due to the signal wire of each sensor goes direct to the ECU obviously, but the other wires of the sensors are connected to each other.
TPS.jpg
Checked my TPS, never done before in dealer mode.Right in the middle👍 T250, we get that crap all the time with cars at work, sensor tests ok, new one solves the problem.
Is there a problem that the STP sensor looks like this?
(https://i.imgur.com/SJyFZG6.jpg?1)
Quote from: Persizi on Monday, 20 November 2023, 04:11 AMIs there a problem that the STP sensor looks like this?
(https://i.imgur.com/SJyFZG6.jpg?1)
One of mine looked a lot like this, it happened after I had sprayed some chemical cleaner on the bike so assume it was a reaction with the plastic, it didn't change how the bike ran or the setting of the sensor
Same here, a razor blade gets rid of this if you scrape carefully. As long as the sensor is working fine no issues.
Clean them up, theyll come back the same. Just leave alone.
Bit of black spray paint? or bit of marker pen . . .
I've cleaned up and it's fine but got cracked after the last adjustment :cry2:
(https://i.imgur.com/54Dk8g3.jpg)
Is someone knows from where I can find a new one for a decent price? I couldn't find any, even second hand. Only the whole throttle body with the sensors. This one still works but who know for how long.
Easy fix with super-glue and cigarette ashes (very strong connection). I have done many repairs on different items that way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLORR-8n0sU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLORR-8n0sU)
Include TPS-113 in your search. Also adding Tourmax, Mikuni
TPS-113 for 1358042F00 (STPS)
For example to be had here: https://www.biketeile-service.de/en/electrics/sensor/throttlepositionsensor/throttlepositionsensorcomparenotps1131358042f00fsuzukigsx1400.html&language=en (https://www.biketeile-service.de/en/electrics/sensor/throttlepositionsensor/throttlepositionsensorcomparenotps1131358042f00fsuzukigsx1400.html&language=en)
TPS-107 for 1358026F00 (TPS)
Appears to be same as Yamaha part# 4XY-85885-00
Quote from: Andre on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 04:17 AMFor example to be had here: https://www.biketeile-service.de/en/electrics/sensor/throttlepositionsensor/throttlepositionsensorcomparenotps1131358042f00fsuzukigsx1400.html&language=en (https://www.biketeile-service.de/en/electrics/sensor/throttlepositionsensor/throttlepositionsensorcomparenotps1131358042f00fsuzukigsx1400.html&language=en)
It says TPS, is it sure that it's STPS? Also it's quite pricey :cry2:
That (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173830225779?itmmeta=01HXSM5YB3SZB8R8HEXN2A2DYT&hash=item287916bf73:g:QF4AAOSwipNhH66R&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4DgLCijqQcHZXvxb3Dlao3o4cM%2BZb6qnXfzVDUkh9I9Ra22EN3F8u5yWrRF%2BFPkP4sq9lKRrffVZaTKCeqqLF70vMrpuJTn%2Fjyw3Q6Zq1%2Bs2KqVKKwH6QXVIGhEvwbl8ppp7Q975PEJDtmZGXyvoX%2FBMx2a5s3bHz%2FI8UazlTl%2BuaC4ooNt0WR01nwYMlq8LBsVrK4zEw%2FNRpsTEJIhFGfp%2Flofp1Idh9AekSnIDGTBuNBWcPjFrWhQZx6bNLbBTD7PKcx2MiX5%2F6oqCaK%2BUcLqbSEHV4I17rbxOF6Xzxm3T%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Dll7TuYw) is better price and says TPS-113 but how can be sure it is STPS?
Quote from: Persizi on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 04:40 AMt says TPS, is it sure that it's STPS? Also it's quite pricey :cry2:
Because it says
QuoteTPS-113/1358042F00
Check the Suzuki part# 1358042F00 in one of the many drawings on the internet. Example here:1358042F00 (http://1358042f00/)
QuoteThat is better price and says TPS-113 but how can be sure it is STPS?
Because it says TPS-113 and it has a white connector. The connector for The TPS is black. Check the color on your sensors to confirm. Tourmax uses TPS-1xx for all their throttle position sensors.
Only taxes and death are sure :happy1:
You can get a primer for superglue so it works on that plastic. I forget exactly what it is, but I've got a bottle somewhere after someone told me about it for sticking the inside of the clocks back together.
To be honest, if it's secure I can't see it being an issue. There's sod all load on the mounts as the sensor weighs very little & has almost no resistance when turned.
While on the subject of tps and stps does anyone have a picture of which pins in the big grey plug to use when testing the tps .
I think I've found a picture of the pins for the stps but conformation would be nice.
Thanks in advance
:cheers:
Update
The link for the special glue
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=6530.msg86539#msg86539
Quote from: Hooli on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 06:48 AMYou can get a primer for superglue so it works on that plastic. I forget exactly what it is, but I've got a bottle somewhere after someone told me about it for sticking the inside of the clocks back together.
To be honest, if it's secure I can't see it being an issue. There's sod all load on the mounts as the sensor weighs very little & has almost no resistance when turned.
I'm sure I out a link for the special plastic glue I. The recommended suppliers section.
Quote from: seth on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 06:49 AMWhile on the subject of tps and stps does anyone have a picture of which pins in the big grey plug to use when testing the tps .
I think I've found a picture of the pins for the stps but conformation would be nice.
Thanks in advance
:cheers:
Update
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=6530.msg86539#msg86539
I don't have a pic, but I traced the wires from the SPS plug to find out which ones they were. Can't remember now though.
/Useless post
Quote from: seth on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 06:49 AMWhile on the subject of tps and stps does anyone have a picture of which pins in the big grey plug to use when testing the tps .
I think I've found a picture of the pins for the stps but conformation would be nice.
Thanks in advance
:cheers:
Update
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=6530.msg86539#msg86539
Page 1 & 2 of this thread Seth, bottom right is common, STPS is the pin next to it and TPS the third one along
Quote from: seth on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 06:49 AMWhile on the subject of tps and stps does anyone have a picture of which pins in the big grey plug to use when testing the tps .
I think I've found a picture of the pins for the stps but conformation would be nice.
Thanks in advance
:cheers:
Update
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=6530.msg86539#msg86539
Quote from: Will14 on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 07:03 AMQuote from: seth on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 06:49 AMWhile on the subject of tps and stps does anyone have a picture of which pins in the big grey plug to use when testing the tps .
I think I've found a picture of the pins for the stps but conformation would be nice.
Thanks in advance
:cheers:
Update
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=6530.msg86539#msg86539
Page 1 & 2 of this thread Seth, bottom right is common, STPS is the pin next to it and TPS the third one along
Thanks buddy I was going cross-eyed looking
Quote from: Andre on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 05:10 AMBecause it says TPS-113 and it has a white connector. The connector for The TPS is black.
I'm even more confused now. The connector from your link is black. Are they both STPS?
Quote from: seth on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 07:17 AMQuote from: Will14 on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 07:03 AMQuote from: seth on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 06:49 AMWhile on the subject of tps and stps does anyone have a picture of which pins in the big grey plug to use when testing the tps .
I think I've found a picture of the pins for the stps but conformation would be nice.
Thanks in advance
:cheers:
Update
https://gsx1400owners.org/forum/index.php?topic=6530.msg86539#msg86539
Page 1 & 2 of this thread Seth, bottom right is common, STPS is the pin next to it and TPS the third one along
Thanks buddy I was going cross-eyed looking
9
Quote from: Persizi on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 07:56 AMQuote from: Andre on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 05:10 AMBecause it says TPS-113 and it has a white connector. The connector for The TPS is black.
I'm even more confused now. The connector from your link is black. Are they both STPS?
The connector in the pictures is the big grey plug under the left side panel
Thanks Andre 😊
Quote from: Persizi on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 07:56 AMQuote from: Andre on Tuesday, 14 May 2024, 05:10 AMBecause it says TPS-113 and it has a white connector. The connector for The TPS is black.
I'm even more confused now. The connector from your link is black. Are they both STPS?
Good catch. The link was intended to show you that the thing is still available. The part numbers are correct. The picture may not be, but it is a different manufacturer. So that may or may not explain it. But that is not the one you want due to price.
The one in your link is definetly (remember death and taxes) the right one. Numbers and appearance fit. It's the same one I bought awhile back.
If you are still confused and don't wan't to take the plunge, just fix the darn thing or live with it as is.
Found both sensors for 98£ along with the delivery.
TPS (https://www.japan-webike.ie/products/24390530.html)
STPS (https://www.japan-webike.ie/products/25704972.html)
Is japan-webike.ie site legit?
Not sure about the site you quoted,but this site IS legit:
https://japan.webike.net/
Looks the same. I can login with the same details and my stuff from .ie site is in the shopping cart.
Quote from: Eric GSX1400K3 on Monday, 27 May 2024, 08:19 AMNot sure about the site you quoted,but this site IS legit:
https://japan.webike.net/
I've ordered from this one & genuine parts turned up in under the quoted time.
Finally got to checking the tps on mine and the with throttle closed it was spot on 1.1 but full throttle only 2.5 so that seems kind of low.? Should I adjust it or leave it alone?
Leave it, I bet your bike 'feels' like it's running fine, yeah?
When I had mine, the readings were not to spec, but the bike was running fine. I brought a new TPS anyway & fitted it, made absolutely NO difference to the bike & the readings were similar. So, if you have issues with the bike, then yeah, by all means investigate & adjust, but if it's running fine, it doesn't need tinkering with. (IMO)
If its not broken- dont fix it👍
Quote from: KiwiCol on Sunday, 18 May 2025, 06:22 AMLeave it, I bet your bike 'feels' like it's running fine, yeah?
When I had mine, the readings were not to spec, but the bike was running fine. I brought a new TPS anyway & fitted it, made absolutely NO difference to the bike & the readings were similar. So, if you have issues with the bike, then yeah, by all means investigate & adjust, but if it's running fine, it doesn't need tinkering with. (IMO)
Yes i'm satisfied with the way it runs but reading all the reactions about adjusting the TPS made me wonder if it could run even better. Will leave it the way it is then. Thanks.
Yes, leave it. The lower reading is the important one.
TPS adjustment. My problem is engine cutting out on overrun when slowing quickly and blipping throttle. This has got worse since fitting new can and link pipe (MTC). So new air filter, synchronize throttle bodies (slight adjustment needed), Adjust TPS was 1240. Need to test ride now. Hope this cures it. What else could it be?
Air leak.
Check all the small vacuum pipes, including the fifth one for the pairs valve. They go brittle & split with age, when they get really bad low speed running is terrible too.
Been out. Seems to be running smoother. Still cut out after a long straight and then a quick stop for junction. Starts back up straight away. Not done STPS or changed plugs yet. Also did not reset TPS with ECU. Not done fuel pump filters. So do I need to go to another thread?
Alex, hard to advise when we dont know maintenance/ adjustment history. New plugs,clean fuel system,balance throttle body, adjust tps,stps, idle speed.Adjust throttle cables.New air filter, check vac hoses, spray of brake cleaner around intake will find leaks.Thats about it from memory, takes a bit of effort but result is long lasting& makes a lovely ride. 👍
Bike rides fine when going steady. It seems that after a fast straight and hard on the brakes blipping throttle and changing down. Sometimes it cuts out. I have changed the can and link pipe for MTC. It had these symptoms before the can swap but not as often. Pairs is intact. New OEM air filter. TPS set from 1240 to 1136. Trhottle bodies balanced. I don't ride too often, sometimes weeks between rides. Not done plugs or tank filters. Milage is 24700 miles.
K7 FE MOVED to another thread.